73-75 Serge panels from Zthee

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flts
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Post by flts » Fri Apr 20, 2018 3:43 am

I think the confusion stems from the fact that the site still allows you to purchase the kit, even it's clearly indicated it's not in stock and the date more stock comes in is unknown.

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monstrinho
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Post by monstrinho » Fri Apr 20, 2018 11:54 am

flts and cygmu - Thanks for confirming that communication is not Zthee's strong suit. I guess, as suggested, the thing to do is follow this thread and wait to see what develops. Again, apologies for derailing the build thread, but I was getting pretty frustrated and figured someone here might have an answer.

ashleym
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Post by ashleym » Sat Apr 21, 2018 4:52 pm

Sammus wrote:Finally made a start here :)

I noticed there are pads to solder down the heat sink on the psu. Is this necessary?
Yes. Well probably. They are relatively heavy items and securing the heatsinks will assist securing them and not just relying on solder pads for the regulators and clipping or screwing the 2 together.

Whatever you think, it takes a minute and I like having thinks nicely screwed together so I did it

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krazh
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Post by krazh » Thu May 03, 2018 10:37 am

lcf wrote:
realitycontrol wrote:I tried some crimp terminals out "2-520182-2" from TE fit nicely, provide a solid connection and can be gotten from Farnell (order code 488276).
But in the end I decided it would be neater and quicker (initially) to solder it with discarded resistor leads.
lcf wrote:What PSU do you use please?
The choices are endless!
Using a Meanwell GS15A-6P1J AC/DC converter along with the Traco THN 15-2423 here. Any wall wart (With a VDC output that matches your DC/DC converters input) that can supply 500mA of current when the power is stepped down to 12V should be fine.
If I was buying again I'd probably plump up for a brick from Meanwell's GSM or GST range, the GS15A I have feels a little flimsy and doesn't have a power indicator.
Thanks, the GSM40B24-P1J looks nice.
Maybe a 18V would produce less heat on the heatsinks, I don't know if it would necessary, they certainly don't get that hot at 24V.

Could you share the DC connector jack you chose to go with the GSM40B24-P1J ? (or particularly the inside & outside contact diameter of your chosen jack).

the Meanwell datasheet indicates a 2.1mm thick barrel connector.
also I reckon using this brick which outputs 24V, the jack voltage rating would have to be same or higher as well right ?

many thanks.

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realitycontrol
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Post by realitycontrol » Thu May 03, 2018 11:43 am

krazh wrote:
lcf wrote:
realitycontrol wrote:I tried some crimp terminals out "2-520182-2" from TE fit nicely, provide a solid connection and can be gotten from Farnell (order code 488276).
But in the end I decided it would be neater and quicker (initially) to solder it with discarded resistor leads.
lcf wrote:What PSU do you use please?
The choices are endless!
Using a Meanwell GS15A-6P1J AC/DC converter along with the Traco THN 15-2423 here. Any wall wart (With a VDC output that matches your DC/DC converters input) that can supply 500mA of current when the power is stepped down to 12V should be fine.
If I was buying again I'd probably plump up for a brick from Meanwell's GSM or GST range, the GS15A I have feels a little flimsy and doesn't have a power indicator.
Thanks, the GSM40B24-P1J looks nice.
Maybe a 18V would produce less heat on the heatsinks, I don't know if it would necessary, they certainly don't get that hot at 24V.

Could you share the DC connector jack you chose to go with the GSM40B24-P1J ? (or particularly the inside & outside contact diameter of your chosen jack).

the Meanwell datasheet indicates a 2.1mm thick barrel connector.
also I reckon using this brick which outputs 24V, the jack voltage rating would have to be same or higher as well right ?

many thanks.
The standard meanwell supplies have a 2.1x5.5mm barrel (you can get different sizes upon request from meanwell).
502-PC722A or 163-4021 from Mouser look ideal to me (There are plenty to choose from).

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krazh
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Post by krazh » Fri May 04, 2018 4:01 am

a very practical option to provide......they do mean well :)
there are many choices, but not many jacks are rated 24VDC or above for use with the GSM (although not sure if the connector current & voltage ratings really matter for this build).

thanks a ton :tu: will be going with the 163-4020.

Jonny
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Post by Jonny » Mon May 21, 2018 4:30 pm

I've been intrigued by this homebuilt kit. Still radio silence regarding availability?

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cygmu
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Post by cygmu » Mon May 21, 2018 5:13 pm

Jonny wrote:I've been intrigued by this homebuilt kit. Still radio silence regarding availability?
The homebuilt pcb/panel sets are sold out.

Jonny
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Post by Jonny » Mon May 21, 2018 8:12 pm

I saw that they were sold out. I'm not understanding if they're a one time thing or will be available again.

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cygmu
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Post by cygmu » Tue May 22, 2018 12:09 am

Jonny wrote:I saw that they were sold out. I'm not understanding if they're a one time thing or will be available again.
Ah, fair question. Recent experience with the vendor suggests that it is impossible to be sure! Given enough interest he may produce more.

PacificState
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Testing panels

Post by PacificState » Sat May 26, 2018 11:17 pm

Finally completed panel 1. Freaked out that the reverb tank wouldn't fit when it turned up, but it looks like the best bet might be to nibble the sides :(

The main question - what's the best way to test section by section without installing all the bananas and committing to fitting the front panel? I guess you can spot solder, or use spade connectors (which would also help future repair)?

dianusindustrial
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Post by dianusindustrial » Wed Jun 06, 2018 8:35 pm

I've just finished populating both boards with components so now I am beginning to think of my options for mounting and wiring to the panels. I've read through the thread and I am wondering what everyone eventually decided on? I bought 50k alpha pots. So I'm thinking board mounting the pots and switches but wiring the jacks (cgs style)? Does this make sense? Is directly soldering with a small piece of wire, like in a few posts here a better way to go? After the initial calibration would I likely want to access the trim pots regularily?

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the bad producer
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Post by the bad producer » Thu Jun 07, 2018 4:43 am

You can access the trimmers through little holes once it is all sandwiched together, so no need to wire cgs style. I would recommend not using resistor leads though, banana sockets wiggle when you insert the jack, and over time I've seen these fail due to constant wear. Best to use a little loop of flexible hook up wire like the Buchla stuff here:

https://modularsynthesis.com/roman/buch ... 56dcvp.htm

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muncky
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Post by muncky » Thu Jun 07, 2018 10:56 am

dianusindustrial wrote:I've just finished populating both boards with components so now I am beginning to think of my options for mounting and wiring to the panels. I've read through the thread and I am wondering what everyone eventually decided on? I bought 50k alpha pots. So I'm thinking board mounting the pots and switches but wiring the jacks (cgs style)? Does this make sense? Is directly soldering with a small piece of wire, like in a few posts here a better way to go? After the initial calibration would I likely want to access the trim pots regularily?
Don’t think I posted this in the thread at the time, but I wired the whole lot for sport (blame Cygmu for the dare!). Definitely made doing mods easier, and I figured any future maintenance would be easier that way.

And guess what? I even enjoyed wiring for the first time in my life :mrgreen:

Image

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cygmu
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Post by cygmu » Thu Jun 07, 2018 1:24 pm

muncky wrote: Don’t think I posted this in the thread at the time, but I wired the whole lot for sport (blame Cygmu for the dare!).
It is clearly the right thing to do, and having seen yours, there is no way I am doing that with mine.

Yellow
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Post by Yellow » Thu Jun 07, 2018 4:25 pm

On an Alpha pot what's the purpose of the tab - plus a good method for it's removal?

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cygmu
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Post by cygmu » Thu Jun 07, 2018 4:35 pm

Yellow wrote:On an Alpha pot what's the purpose of the tab - plus a good method for it's removal?
The tab is to stop it rotating when mounted in a panel that has a slot for the tab.

You can easily remove them by grabbing them with pliers or snips and folding them outwards from the pot.

Yellow
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Post by Yellow » Sun Jun 10, 2018 12:46 pm

Good to know cheers

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Sammus
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Calibration

Post by Sammus » Mon Jul 16, 2018 9:46 am

I've starting calibrating the oscillator panel - is it normal the saw are around 5Vpp, and sine around 2.5-3Vpp depending on frequency?

Also, patched into AC in Gate module with gain full CW, I get an inverted signal on the output. Is this normal?

dianusindustrial
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Post by dianusindustrial » Sun Jul 22, 2018 11:41 pm

Also have some issues with calibrating the oscillator. Wondering what method everyone has approached it. Following the suggestions in the comments above I tried the elby ES20 build guide, and have had some limited success. I can't get it to track close to their table.

I used a variable voltage regulator as the 2v source, and the 5k lin pot as suggested. Best I could manage it tracks with 16hz low point from 300hz-52hz (75z in the guide) and 300hz-1500hz (1200hz in the guide) Using a ut61e to measure frequency. Is this range acceptable?

variable regulator

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tojpeters
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Post by tojpeters » Sun Jul 29, 2018 1:32 pm

Is there a separate mouser cart for the PSU as suggested in the documentation or just the one?

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prphnc
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Post by prphnc » Fri Aug 03, 2018 3:01 am

I totally missed this one :sadbanana:
Anybody knows if there will be a second run?
Maybe if enough people show their interest?
I contact 73-75 via their website but didn't get any response.

Yellow
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Post by Yellow » Fri Aug 03, 2018 5:22 pm

cygmu wrote:the bad producer reminded me that you can save a bit of wire and perhaps keep things a little tidier by bussing the ground lugs of the pots together directly, and likewise for any +V and -V connections.
Any further advice or tips for the point to point wiring of jacks and pots?

Cheers

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Nesto
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the (to me) mysterious adaptor?

Post by Nesto » Wed Aug 15, 2018 9:06 am

so the very top 3.5 jack acts as an output for the banana jack below. i use this for getting the audio to mixer for listening.
the bottom-most 3.5 jack and the banana above it work as an input 3.5 to output banana, but the middle two i can't figure out. thought it was the same deal as the top pair, but when i touch a banana plug to that jack it stops the sound.

sorry for the noob question...

and if anyone is feeling extra helpful- what the heck is the big 1/4 inch jack for up beside the reverb? external audio in? cv in? it is the one thing i have not wired up.

think everthing is working although i got a little confused by the ringmod calibration instructions. sounds cool anyhow.

if anyone else wonders how to make a quick "case", i used nuts and bolts as standoffs and mounted it on an old 2u rack box until i figure out a classier alternative; makes it easy to move around in the meantime.

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groove
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Fixing blemishes

Post by groove » Mon Aug 27, 2018 4:48 pm

muncky wrote:So, I’ve finished my build of these (with a few mods, which all wired - huzzah!), but have got a few scratches which I’d like to touch in. Any thoughts from the hive mind on the best way to colour them in?
I managed to peel off a bunch of paint when I did some mods, and I managed to fill them in pretty convincingly with Testor's Model Master enamel paint. FS36495 - it's almost spot on the panel color.

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