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Euro power cable advice
MUFF WIGGLER Forum Index -> Music Tech DIY  
Author Euro power cable advice
Bass Clef
Hey Wigglers
I'm going to build some CGS modules for my euro system, so going to have to make some cables to plug into a doepfer busboard.
Does this look like the right part to have at the busboard end of the cable?
I think I need a 16-way header, i.e. 2 rows of 8.

16 way IDC header

any help appreciated, my head's spinning from looking at too many different options!

Also, do I really need ribbon cable, or can I just wire +ve -ve and ground wires into that header?
the bad producer
That's the one indeed... Yeah, I think you have to use ribbon cable, soldering wires to that would probably be the worst thing in the world! I've got yards of ribbon cable so I can send you a metre or so for the cost of postage if you like (rather than order a reel yourself) and this would be good for me as I've got so much it does my head in!

BTW for plugging CGS into euro I make a little power adaptor like this:

Bass Clef
Thanks for the tip, and I certainly won't say no to a super generous offer like that!
Dont forget to get one of these to insert the ribbon cable -86-0860/?sid=469eca36-8a9f-46c3-bbb5-723d1c248eff

Insulation displacement cable, ie the slits you slide the cable into cut through the insulation and bite into the conductive part of the cable. its a gas tight join- a very good one. It keeps most of the worlds telephony working.
the bad producer I'm new to modular DIY and that panel wiring is very neat looking to me. It looks like you've brought the wire and insulation up through some of those holes. Is that a form of strain relief and it's soldered on the other side?
the bad producer
Hi robotdad, it's not my innovation but Ken Stone's, see his description here:

To use the wire anchor holes:
1) Trim off the end of a suitable gauge of hookup wire
2) Pass it through the larger (pad-less) hole from below and pull a couple of inches through.
3) Strip the insulation from the end of the wire, twist and tin it.
4) Bend the wire over and pass the tinned part through the associated pad hole. Trim as needed.
5) Flip the board and solder the tinned wire to the pad.
6) Pull the excess wire back through the first hole so only a short length remains between the hole and the second pad. Make sure this is the LAST step, or the insulation will peel back from the wire as it is soldered.

I believe there are some pics somewhere on his site, but can't remember where!

(This description is taken from the Gated Comparator page btw...)
It's an old trick used on perfboard to strain relief wires.
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