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building a euro set up/suitcase *warning lots of pics*
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Author building a euro set up/suitcase *warning lots of pics*
felix
Loves the manuals!


Joined: 20 Apr 2007
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 16, 2008 4:03 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

I can't believe I didn't catch this thread earlier! Magnificent work!

Please continue documenting your progress. I'm keep to build a small portable system with Harvestman modules and a few others and the one thing I'm most concerned about is the PSU.

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wetterberg
Super Deluxe Wiggler


Joined: 24 Jul 2008
Last Visit: 16 Mar 2013

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Location: Copenhagen, Denmark.

PostPosted: Sat Aug 16, 2008 2:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

See I eventually want to build a LARGE portable system - roughly 18u-24u - and I'm loving the technical challenge of it all. Every modular should be portable, right? smile
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spbaker
Veteran Wiggler


Joined: 15 Jun 2008
Last Visit: 25 May 2013

Posts: 688
Location: melbourne australia

PostPosted: Sat Aug 16, 2008 9:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

felix wrote:
I can't believe I didn't catch this thread earlier! Magnificent work!

Please continue documenting your progress. I'm keep to build a small portable system with Harvestman modules and a few others and the one thing I'm most concerned about is the PSU.


thnx felix!

i'm getting a new switched supply in the next week and will take detailed pics of setting it up, i'm gonna work out some kind of system based on Peter G's comments of having direct grounds for each module instead of the daisy chain system... how i dunno just yet lol

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swordsect
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 28, 2008 1:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Just curious but where could I get the rails that the modules themselves scew into? and what are they called? thx!
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sandyb
reap what you sow


Joined: 22 Oct 2007
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 28, 2008 4:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

swordsect wrote:
Just curious but where could I get the rails that the modules themselves scew into? and what are they called? thx!


there are a number of options for getting suitable rails:

- buy a Doepfer DIY Kit - these come with a power supply, bus board(s) and rails. note that the rails in the linked picture are the "old" ones Doepfer used to supply - they supply ones like you see in this thread now.
http://www.analoguehaven.com/doepfer/a100diy1/

- buy Vector T-Struts. they come in a variety of lengths and are usually used with sliding nuts to mount the modules onto. you can get them at lots of places - here's one.
http://www.alliedelec.com/Search/SearchResults.aspx?N=0&Ntk=Primary&Nt t=vector+t-strut&sid=11C0A135309C

- buy rails from Schroff. this is what i did for my diy case. i use threaded inserts to mount the modules onto but these can use nuts too.
http://www.schroff.us/home.asp then go to "europacPro - accessories - horizontal rail"

hth

sandy

edit: i've linked USA sources for these as i'm presuming that's where you are based. if you're in europe (or some other part of the world) there are most likely suppliers more convenient for you.
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Kolob
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 30, 2008 9:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Could you let me know how much space you have in between the Vector rails where the 2 rows meet. thanks
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sandyb
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 01, 2008 12:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Kolob wrote:
Could you let me know how much space you have in between the Vector rails where the 2 rows meet. thanks


you don't need to leave any space. the top of the modules and the top of the rails pretty much line up.

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Kolob
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 01, 2008 7:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Sandyb. So when you cut your side pieces to your "L" cabinet the measurement of the angled row cuts are right at 5.06" (height of Euro modules).
I got only 2 Vector rails since that's all Mouser has right now so I'm still not able to accurately simulate placing the rails/modules on my mockup yet. thanks again, you keep coming through for me.
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spbaker
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 01, 2008 8:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

sandyb wrote:
Kolob wrote:
Could you let me know how much space you have in between the Vector rails where the 2 rows meet. thanks


you don't need to leave any space. the top of the modules and the top of the rails pretty much line up.


yeah sandyb is soooo right, there is a gap on mine because i used cut offs from a schroff rack and the spacings were like that, but there is no need for gaps, unless you are building them on angles like the plan b calarts case, then i would have a 2 or 3mm gap to allow for the module faceplate thicknesses.

and Kolob remember that if there's no pics it never happened!! Guinness ftw!

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sandyb
reap what you sow


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 01, 2008 11:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Kolob wrote:
Sandyb. So when you cut your side pieces to your "L" cabinet the measurement of the angled row cuts are right at 5.06" (height of Euro modules).
I got only 2 Vector rails since that's all Mouser has right now so I'm still not able to accurately simulate placing the rails/modules on my mockup yet. thanks again, you keep coming through for me.


erm - probably - i didn't actually measure eek!
i just mocked it up with the rails and blank panels i had and shifted things around until it looked/felt right and went with that.
edit: just checked my case and it seems i ended up with a gap of 1-2mm between the rails.
sandy

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wetterberg
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 01, 2008 12:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

spbaker wrote:
there is no need for gaps, unless you are building them on angles like the plan b calarts case, then i would have a 2 or 3mm gap to allow for the module faceplate thicknesses.
That depends a bit, doesn't it? If you're buying the european euro-rack rails they will have a small lip, which eliminates the need to space them out.


edit: Clarification: that is, if you're buying the *front* rails. The back rails *don't* have a lip, and they're much simpler in design. IIRC they cost the same though, and the ones with the (small) lip are a bit sleeker, imo.

- Or you can go crazy and get the ones with the 1cm lip, I believe the schroff rack ebay item has that bottom "fat lip" design going, too?
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Kolob
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 01, 2008 2:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

I'm using the Vector T rails and the cabinet will be clear colored acrylic with a curved L shape. I'm just trying to be exact with my measurements since I'm not using wood. Thanks guys and I'll post some pics soon of at least the mockup I'm about done with.
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dkcg
I pity the fool w/o enough VCAs


Joined: 14 Jul 2008
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Location: LA

PostPosted: Wed Oct 01, 2008 4:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Kolob wrote:
I'm using the Vector T rails and the cabinet will be clear colored acrylic with a curved L shape. I'm just trying to be exact with my measurements since I'm not using wood. Thanks guys and I'll post some pics soon of at least the mockup I'm about done with.


How are you assembling the acrylic? Screws/brackets or using that pheno-something (I forget the exact name) to "glue" it?
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Kolob
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 01, 2008 11:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

I'm hoping for as few screws as possible, but I'm sure a few will be necessary. Still in talks with a local plastic fabricator regarding the design and best method to assemble. It depends on final cost whether I assemble it or have it professionally done. I'm sure if I do the entire assembly then it will be a bit more ghetto.
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Suburban Bather
Miami Flesh


Joined: 25 Oct 2008
Last Visit: 18 May 2013

Posts: 2571
Location: Waldorf, MD

PostPosted: Sun Oct 26, 2008 2:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Excellent tutorial on a DIY case, thank you very much for posting this thread with the amount of detail included.

On the cross talk note- i get massive cross talk from the lfo on my Moog ring mod to the frequency control on my Moog lpf. The fix was too simple, just take an unused plug and solder a jumper between the tip and sleeve(you now have a dummy plug, or circuit completer). Plug the offending CV with your dummy plug and the cross talk disappears.

I only get the cross talk when nothing is plugged into the freq. CV on the LPF. Thats why it was easy to isolate the problem quick. It is kind of neat having wireless modultion going on though hihi but only because its a simple fix with a dummy plug.
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spbaker
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 30, 2008 7:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

hey SB, thanks for the compliment!
i think the cross talk was mainly due to the power supply i used, since going over to the switched one things have been quiet on the western front. but thats a good solution, even just to track down which module is being naughty!
good tip! Guinness ftw!

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oozitron
solder fume huffer


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 08, 2009 10:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Very cool! I've been thinking about doing this with some cases I have as well... thanks for sharing your work.

And while going thru the pictures I had a little suprise; the Pioneer amplifier in the picture with all the loose modules. That's the exact same one I bought with my hard-earned lawmowing money back when I was about 13! Nice to see another synth-head has the same one smile

Drew
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stk
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Location: rat city, vic au

PostPosted: Thu Jun 24, 2010 8:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Wow, just stumbled across this thread. Excellent build.
@spbaker - are you still using the Jaycar PSU? how's it performing? Any idea of it's max amp load?

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new terminal sound system 2xlp/cd/digital out now | soundcloud / antisound.net | my modular

"This place is a giant "fuck you" to that system, to that attitude, to that pedagogy. ... We are winning! And only by remaining free and open do we maintain that position. For you, and for me, and for the children. For the music." - Muff Wiggler
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spbaker
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 24, 2010 8:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

stk wrote:
Wow, just stumbled across this thread. Excellent build.
@spbaker - are you still using the Jaycar PSU? how's it performing? Any idea of it's max amp load?


blowing the dust of this thread w00t
i'm not using the jaycar supply any more, it went across the sea to roycieroller and i haven't heard anything from him so its prolly alright. From memory I think it was 1amp wait no 1.25
powerpack

the cross talk was more due to how i had my distroboards set up- not enough wire thickness and thick enough traces between the headers, as well as daisy chaining, once i moved to a star pattern and improved connections crosstalk went away. It's a good intro PS, but maybe put bigger heat sinks on there i think i heard someone mention....?

i'm using the meanwell supplies at the mo from http://www.computronics.com.au/meanwell/t-60/ and even tho they are switching i don't have any issues.

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stk
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 24, 2010 10:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Cheers for the reply.
I had looked at that Jaycar PSU before actually, but was a bit dubious as to its power handling and general performance, particularly due to the tiny heatsinks.

Ended up getting an Elby all-in-one linear (prolly a little expensive for ~550MA but I have faith in Laurie's engineering so I'm sure it's quality).

Might have to give the Jaycar a try sometime, looks like it would make an ideal portable rig.

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"This place is a giant "fuck you" to that system, to that attitude, to that pedagogy. ... We are winning! And only by remaining free and open do we maintain that position. For you, and for me, and for the children. For the music." - Muff Wiggler
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