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[BUILD] - CGS Euro Modules
 
 
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Author [BUILD] - CGS Euro Modules
clarke68
Making DIY modulars look cool since 2011


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 23, 2011 2:35 am    Post subject: [BUILD] - CGS Euro Modules Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

A thread for people who are building out my CGS Euro Panels, or really anyone who's doing CGS PCBs in Euro. Post questions, post pictures, share tips, share parts...we're all in this together!

These panels are all sold out, however I am now taking orders for another run of a few them here, and am actively checking interest for the rest here.


The knobs I used for my builds (all the photos below) are from Jameco. Obviously you can use any knobs you want, but it will help if you get the size close. Sizes and Jameco part #s are:

small - 0.55" - 136241
medium - 19.8mm - 264990
large (on MSU only) - 33.3mm - 264946


Last edited by clarke68 on Sun Oct 14, 2012 11:23 am; edited 5 times in total
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clarke68
Making DIY modulars look cool since 2011


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 23, 2011 2:35 am    Post subject: CGS MSU Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

MSU






This panel uses the following PCBs:
CGS29 - Wave Multiplier
CGS35 - Synthacon VCF
CGS77 - Serge '73 VCF


Panel parts, for easier copy/pasting:

Alpha 16mm Potentiometer, solder terminals
SmallBear - 1005A
Mouser - 313-1000F
Jameco - 286302

Kobiconn 3.5mm Phone Connectors
Mouser - 16PJ138

3/16" Standoff
Mouser - 534-1895
Jameco - 133656


Last edited by clarke68 on Wed Sep 10, 2014 9:40 am; edited 3 times in total
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clarke68
Making DIY modulars look cool since 2011


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 23, 2011 2:36 am    Post subject: Quad Slope Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Quad Slope






This panel uses 2 CGS114 PCBs.

Note that building out CGS114 is a tad rough...it wasn't intended to become a mainstream PCB (but has caught on for obvious reasons). As such, it doesn't have a proper power connector, and the overall panel wiring isn't quite a clear as some of Ken's other projects. Everything you need to know is at the link above (and I've tried to help with this build guide), it just takes a little more brain power to figure it all out.

That said, if you want an easier time (and don't mind spending twice the money for twice the number of PCBs) you might consider building 4 CGS75 instead.


Panel parts, for easier copy/pasting:

Alpha 16mm Potentiometer, solder terminals
SmallBear - 1005A
Mouser - 313-1000F
Jameco - 286302

Kobiconn 3.5mm Phone Connectors
Mouser - 16PJ138

3/16" Standoff
Mouser - 534-1895
Jameco - 133656

3mm LED Lens
Mouser - 593-2000C (note that the letter at the end is the color of the lens. "C" stands for clear, my build above uses "B" blue)

SP3T Toggle Switch
Mouser - 633-M202402-RO


Last edited by clarke68 on Wed Sep 10, 2014 9:40 am; edited 5 times in total
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clarke68
Making DIY modulars look cool since 2011


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 23, 2011 2:37 am    Post subject: West Coast Mini Synth Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

West Coast Mini Synth



Note that, even though it's not shown here, you must use a bracket to mount the PCBs to the West Coast Mini Synth panel.



The West Coast Mini Synth uses the following PCBs:

2 CGS48 - VCO
2 CGS64 - VCA
CGS67 - Active Real Ring Mod
CGS114 - DUSG
CGS04 - Mixer

Panel parts, for easier copy/pasting:

Alpha 16mm Potentiometer, solder terminals
SmallBear - 1005A
Mouser - 313-1000F
Jameco - 286302

Alpha Single-Gang 9mm Potentiometer, PC Mount
SmallBear - 1012
Mouser - 311-1902F

Kobiconn 3.5mm Phone Connectors
Mouser - 16PJ138

3/16" Standoff
Mouser - 534-1895
Jameco - 133656

3mm LED Lens
Mouser - 593-2000C (note that the letter at the end is the color of the lens. "C" stands for clear, my build above uses "B" blue)

SP3T Toggle Switch
Mouser - 633-M202402-RO


Last edited by clarke68 on Wed Sep 10, 2014 9:41 am; edited 4 times in total
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clarke68
Making DIY modulars look cool since 2011


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 23, 2011 2:37 am    Post subject: Funky Drummer Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Funky Drummer




Functionally equivalent to the left half of Zthee's SWAMP panel, this panel uses the following PCBs:

CGS13
CGS36
CGS31


Panel parts:

Alpha 16mm Potentiometer, solder terminals
SmallBear - 1005A
Mouser - 313-1000F
Jameco - 286302

Alpha Single-Gang 9mm Potentiometer, PC Mount
SmallBear - 1012
Mouser - 311-1902F

Kobiconn 3.5mm Phone Connectors
Mouser - 16PJ138

3/16" Standoff
Mouser - 534-1895
Jameco - 133656

3mm LED Lens
Mouser - 593-2000C (note that the letter at the end is the color of the lens. "C" stands for clear, my build above uses "B" blue)

Pulse Divider Reset - Mouser #633-FB15ANEP2
Note actual part number is 633-FB15ANEP2-xy, where x is the size (F = small, H = large) and y is the color (C = red, A = black, B = white) of the button cap. This part is pretty critical, as the hole in the panel is specifically sized for this switch. Good quality switch, tho...tested to 50k cycles.

Gated Comparator Manual Loop/Load - Mouser #633-M201901-RO
There are probably other switches that will fit here, just be sure you get one that's ON - OFF - (ON)

Digital Noise Clock & Gated Comparator Loop Enable - most any SPDT ON - ON will work, the mounting holes are 0.25 in. which seems typical. I used part #317236 from Jameco.


Last edited by clarke68 on Wed Sep 10, 2014 9:41 am; edited 3 times in total
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fonik
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 23, 2011 2:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

w00t
these look nice!

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clarke68
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 23, 2011 3:15 am    Post subject: PCB Mounting Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Mounting PCBs to the Panel

On all the panels except for the West Coast Mini Synth you can mount the PCBs directly to the panel...the mounting holes are sized to fit the standard (6" x 2") CGS PCB. This is the MSU:



But why do it like that when all the cool kids are using brackets!?!



Brackets are easy to make. These are made from 1/2" aluminum L-brackets, available at any hardware store, easily cut with a hack saw to 4.25 inches. Note that you don't need L-brackets, just about any metal strip will do. I drill mine with a hand drill. Let me know if anyone needs a step-by-step on doing this:



I want to reiterate that you must use brackets with the West Coast Mini Synth. For all the others it's an option. You wouldn't want all those boards sticking out anyway! Check it out:



Note that these are the brackets I made a few months ago as a test, before I even had the actual panels in hand. Check out how sloppy they are:



...and yet it still fits (with a little cajoling) into the rack. Also note that this is a Tiptop Audio Happy Ending kit...with brackets, even the Mini Synth is borderline skiff-friendly!


You can do this!


Last edited by clarke68 on Wed Sep 10, 2014 9:42 am; edited 3 times in total
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clarke68
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 23, 2011 3:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

fonik wrote:
w00t
these look nice!


Thanks man! thumbs up
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Pfurmel
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 23, 2011 3:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

fonik wrote:
w00t
these look nice!


They sure do. Excellent work clarke.

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lazerkind
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 23, 2011 6:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Great mounting guide Clarke thumbs up
Looking forward to hear a heavy "clunk!" in my mailbox any day now.
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fate
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 23, 2011 6:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

did you make the angled aluminum pieces that go on the standoffs?
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keninverse
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 23, 2011 9:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Sweet looking panels...I LOVE the design of these. I have to say you have quite a knack for designing the layout. Easy to read = easy to patch. Cannot wait to start building.
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clarke68
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 23, 2011 11:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Thanks guys! Really glad you dig the panels. Of all the aspects of SDIY, I actually enjoy panel design the most...it's thrilling for me that more people get to use these panels.

fate wrote:
did you make the angled aluminum pieces that go on the standoffs?

I did. I made them from 1/2" L-bracket...available at any hardware store. It doesn't have to be L-bracket, just a flat piece of aluminum will work. Mark the holes and drill by hand. I'm going to post a few more pictures in the post above later on today.
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clarke68
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 23, 2011 11:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

If you're building a Quad Slope or a West Coast Mini Synth, Mongo posted a DUSG "review" over at Electro-Music...it has some really great tips on working with this board, check it out:

http://electro-music.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=50674
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lukas412
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 23, 2011 11:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

wow these looks so amazing. really wish i would have gotten in on these. nice work!
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clarke68
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 23, 2011 12:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Quote:
really wish i would have gotten in on these. nice work!

You can if you want! I have extras. Send me a PM! thumbs up
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jenamu6
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 23, 2011 12:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Could these panels and designs be easily bananafied?
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lukas412
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 23, 2011 1:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

lukas412 wrote:
wow these looks so amazing. really wish i would have gotten in on these. nice work!


PM'd!
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dude
fuck yeah!


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 23, 2011 1:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

gorgeous
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SMS303
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 23, 2011 2:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

jenamu6 wrote:
Could these panels and designs be easily bananafied?

That should be possible, imo ....

Jean will you build them or ..... ???
If you're not...
I'm still busy with 2 Best of CGS BOG's & MARSH...
I can put them in my backlog if you pay enough razz Mr. Green

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 23, 2011 2:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Can we see a pick of the completed backside of one of these beauties? they look SlayerBadger!
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jenamu6
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 23, 2011 2:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

SMS303 wrote:
jenamu6 wrote:
Could these panels and designs be easily bananafied?

That should be possible, imo ....

Jean will you build them or ..... ???
If you're not...
I'm still busy with 2 Best of CGS BOG's & MARSH...
I can put them in my backlog if you pay enough razz Mr. Green


Paying you to screw up components and a PCB?

Me thinks.....NO!!!

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SMS303
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 23, 2011 2:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

jenamu6 wrote:
Paying you to screw up components and a PCB?
Me thinks.....NO!!!

d'oh! hmmm..... !LOL! Mr. Green
In Casper we TRUST! SlayerBadger!

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clarke68
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 23, 2011 3:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

RealDudes wrote:
Can we see a pick of the completed backside of one of these beauties? they look SlayerBadger!


I just updated the "PCB Mounting" post on the first page with these (and a few other) photos:





That's as far as I've gotten in my builds. At this point, I expect some of the other guys will have boards populated and modules screaming before I do...keep your eye on this thead!


Last edited by clarke68 on Wed Sep 10, 2014 9:43 am; edited 2 times in total
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RealDudes
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 23, 2011 3:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

they look like architecture models
we're not worthy we're not worthy we're not worthy

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clarke68
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 23, 2011 3:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

jenamu6 wrote:
Could these panels and designs be easily bananafied?

Depends what you consider easy. The jack holes are all sized for 3.5mm jacks...about 6mm. The banana jacks I've used require about 8mm, so you'd have to drill out all the jack holes. Not too bad a job if you're fairly comfortable with a drill.

Beyond that, I think there might be one place in all of these panels where I assumed a normalized connection would be implemented...may have been in the Funky Drummer, I can't remember.
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apfEID
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 23, 2011 3:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

these are beautiful, I hope I find time to start doing some DIY next year...
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 23, 2011 4:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

man I can't wait to start mine...

did you post the details of what knobs you used somewhere?

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 23, 2011 5:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

yes these panels have barged in and jumped my DIY queu!
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negativspace
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 23, 2011 6:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Monobass wrote:
did you post the details of what knobs you used somewhere?


Part #s from Jameco are listed in the other thread. thumbs up

I'm going to try some black aluminum ones from Mouser, they had one line that worked for all 3 sizes and wasn't stupidly expensive - I hope they don't suck.

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clarke68
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 23, 2011 7:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Monobass wrote:
did you post the details of what knobs you used somewhere?


They're in the first post of this thread, too, but I'm happy to repeat:

My knobs are from Jameco. Obviously you can use any knobs you want, but it will help if you get the size close. Sizes and Jameco part #s are:

small - 0.55" - 136241
medium - 19.8mm - 264990
large (on MSU only) - 33.3mm - 264946
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falafelbiels
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 23, 2011 7:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

SMS303 wrote:
jenamu6 wrote:
Paying you to screw up components and a PCB?
Me thinks.....NO!!!

d'oh! hmmm..... !LOL! Mr. Green
In Casper we TRUST! SlayerBadger!


eek!
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clarke68
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 28, 2011 3:07 pm    Post subject: Modifying CGS PCBs for +/- 12 volts Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

I went through Ken's site and did a quick search for everything written about building these PCBs for use with +/- 12v. If you find (or know of) any other 12v mods, please post it and I'll keep this list updated.

CGS29 - Wave Multipliers
While untested, the module should work on +/-12 volts.

CGS77 - Serge 1973 VCF
Will run on +/- 12 volts or +/-15 volts.

CGS35 - Steiner VCF
Version 1.3 can be built as shown on the overlay of the PCB ... For use with +/-12 volt supplies, the two diodes marked with rings around their pads on the overlay should be replaced with links.


CGS114 - DUSG / CGS75 - VCS
Will run on +/- 12 volts or +/-15 volts.

CGS48 - VCO
The module will work on +/-12 volts if the 20k resistor connected to pin 3 of the LM311 is reduced to 14k.


CGS13 - Gated Comparator
Resistors RA and RB form the voltage divider that determines the gate output voltage. Use 1k for RB. When running off +/-15 volts use 1k8 for RA. When running off +/-12 volts, use RA = 1k5.

CGS31 - Digital Noise
While untested, the module should work on +/-12 volts.

CGS36 - Pulse Divider/Boolean Logic
VER1.3 PCBs have the upper part of the output dividers marked as RA on the PCB. These resistors are 1k8 for +/-15V operation and 1k5 for +/-12 volt operation. Likewise the two 1k8 resistors in the inverters should be 1k5 for 12 volt operation. The two 1k5 resistors in the OR and AND gates could probably be increased to 1k8 for 15 volt operation. Check your output voltages when you have assembled them. Ideally the voltages will swing between 0 volts and +5 volts. Some small variance either way is nothing to be concerned about.
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simfonik
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 30, 2011 12:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Based on the rear panel image for the MSU, it looks like I need the following potentiometers:

(10x) 313-1000F-100K
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Alpha-Taiwan/RV16AF-10-15R1-B100K/  ?qs=sGAEpiMZZMuarXojuOTsc9jR33G5hGO%252bcj2YiaooI6I%3d

(1x) 313-1000F-1K
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Alpha-Taiwan/RV16AF-10-15R1-B1K/?q s=sGAEpiMZZMuarXojuOTsc7XUj8Kk%2f1Ts8uwZ%252baquuNs%3d

(1x) 313-1000F-1M
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Alpha-Taiwan/RV16AF-10-15R1-B1M/?q s=sGAEpiMZZMuarXojuOTsc7XUj8Kk%2f1TscFmzyHqZdKI%3d

(1x) 313-1000F-20K
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Alpha-Taiwan/RV16AF-10-15R1-B20K/? qs=sGAEpiMZZMuarXojuOTsc3UoKTY4nCEoKqEqi3d3N6w%3d

(1x) 50k log .... can't seem to find this at Mouser or Jameco.

Does that look right? Any idea on the 50k log pot? dizzy
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negativspace
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 30, 2011 12:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

50k logs @ Mouser - 313-1500f-50k
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 30, 2011 12:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

negativspace wrote:
50k logs @ Mouser - 313-1500f-50k


w00t Thanks!
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 30, 2011 6:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Can't wait to get started on a funky drummer and mini synth. Anyone got one of those shareable mouser project BOM's going yet? If not I'll see about putting a couple together, they make ordering (after the first time) so much easier.
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 30, 2011 11:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Hey Brian, I already posted one in the other thread, it's just an Excel spreadsheet but it works with mousers BOM import tool. It needs some work described below to it but it's mostly complete. The only things missing AFAIK are the 22k (25k) trimmer for the Serge Voltage Controlled Filter and the 22k-25k trim for the CGS VCO. I'm not even sure if the other trim-pots I specified are still in stock. That's all that's keeping me from starting the project are the trim-pots. I'm not sure if I made the changes for 12 volt operation listed above either. If someone were to make it a complete BOM that'd be really neat.

Tall Midget wrote:
I didn't include the knobs or jacks, too tired to add them or count them now but most of the parts are there I think. Potentiometers are Mouser Part #'s but I would order them from somewhere else other than mouser to save money. There are a few Digikey part # that aren't specifically listed as being from Digikey but if Mouser doesn't recognize a part number when you import it, odds are it's a Digikey part number.


Edit: Check out the updated BOM bkbirge posted on Page 3 of this thread.


Last edited by Tall Midget on Sun Dec 04, 2011 8:18 pm; edited 3 times in total
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 30, 2011 11:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Also here's some of the parts needed for the Funky Drummer:

clarke68 wrote:
Gated Comparator Sequence pots are all 100k linear.

Here's all of the switches on the Funky Drummer:

Pulse Divider Reset - Mouser #633-FB15ANEP2
Note actual part number is 633-FB15ANEP2-xy, where x is the size (F = small, H = large) and y is the color (C = red, A = black, B = white) of the button cap. This part is pretty critical, as the hole in the panel is specifically sized for this switch. Good quality switch, tho...tested to 50k cycles.

Gated Comparator Manual Loop/Load - Mouser #633-M201901-RO
There are probably other switches that will fit here, just be sure you get one that's ON - OFF - (ON)

Digital Noise Clock & Gated Comparator Loop Enable - most any SPDT ON - ON will work, the mounting holes are 0.25 in. which seems typical. I used part #317236 from Jameco.
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 01, 2011 11:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Cool, didn't know about the BOM import tool.
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 02, 2011 7:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

edit: found some BOM mistakes, took it down, will re-upload when I fix 'em.
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 02, 2011 9:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

MSU panel arrived today. Looks great!

Now the impatient wait for everything else to arrive.
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 04, 2011 6:29 pm    Post subject: MiniSynth and FunkyDrummer Mouser BOM Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

OK, here's the corrected BOM for the MiniSynth and FunkyDrummer using Mouser parts and mods for euro (+/-12v operation) put in. I just checked it and the parts are in stock but of course that can change any minute. Also some parts cannot be sourced from Mouser and have been noted accordingly as ebay or bridechamber finds.

As always when using someone else's BOM, do your own double checking. This is a riff off the one Tall Midget provided (thanks TM!) and your own build may require your own personal riffing.

Note: BOM parts are per pcb board, you'll need to double up on some boards (vca and vco) when building the mini synth.

Edit: got rid of the crazy expensive molex male connector, replaced with much cheaper one, saves a lot of $$, Re-download this if you are using an earlier version <[2]

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 05, 2011 1:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

...and here's a couple mouser projects that make ordering a LOT easier. They take the BOM from above so if you want different parts you'll need to go in and edit and hit the button to 'save as my own project'. And of course these are just the parts from the BOM that Mouser has, you'll still need to source some stuff from other places (bridechamber, ebay).

Funky Drummer, mouser costs $121.42USD+shipping
https://www.mouser.com/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=5e66 c16398

West Coast Mini Synth, mouser costs $215.07USD+shipping, includes both vco's and vca's
https://www.mouser.com/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=16d4 3ff73a

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 06, 2011 7:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

The 3/16" Standoff , Mouser - 534-1895 - what thread are these?,

also how did you manage to stack them all?
I was assuming on long screw on the top most board that passes through all 3 standoffs, then a short screw that meets the first standoff nearest the backside of the panel?
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 06, 2011 8:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

fate wrote:
The 3/16" Standoff , Mouser - 534-1895 - what thread are these?

Those are 4-40. It really doesn't matter as long as you have screws that match, I was just going for the smallest outside diameter that I could get.

I used short screws (probably .25"), but the tall standoffs (except for the ones that connect directly to the panel) are male/female:



Finding the parts you need is easier if you look at a Mouser catalog page:

http://www.mouser.com/catalog/catalogUSD/644/1977.pdf
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 06, 2011 11:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Mouser is out of stock on the 50k log pots.

http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=IfoOD9RoqaDxUm3GE%2 52bWt%2Fw%3D%3D

Are these the same thing (50K Audio 2741)?

http://www.smallbearelec.com/Detail.bok?no=555
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 07, 2011 2:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

simfonik wrote:
Are these the same thing (50K Audio 2741)?

Yup. Log = audio
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 07, 2011 3:33 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List





screaming goo yo w00t Guinness ftw!

Everything works perfectly except for the Lockhart folder, and I'm not sure what's wrong with it. It's not like there's a
lot there to go wrong. I'll work on debugging it later, I've checked all the obvious stuff with meter and 'scope, but to
no avail. The PWM pot will be replaced with the correct size pending my next Mouser order... I can't count, evidently.

The Serge VCF is definitely a winner.

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 07, 2011 5:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Nice build negativespace love
I remember I had problems with my breadboard lockhart folder when i did that. It never sounded like a folder, more like a bizarre FSU amplifier having a bad day.
Although interesting, not quite what I was expecting. I guess I just have to bite the bullet on that one and get it fixed now...
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 07, 2011 6:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Thanks!

Weird FSU amp having a bad day is pretty close to what I'm getting, too. hmmm.....

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 07, 2011 11:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

negativspace:
jawdrop
Wow! That looks awesome! Nice to finally see how one of these looks with the boards stuffed. Any panel wiring tips you want to give us would be much appreciated.

A bizarre FSU amplifier having a bad day isn't all bad, considering it's only 1/10 of the panel, but I'll be curious to hear of a solution if you find one.

Are you in a place where you can record some samples? Inquiring ears want to hear!
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 07, 2011 11:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

We have a winner for fast building: Negativspace SlayerBadger!
Wow Jason that's fast woah

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 07, 2011 4:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Cheers, guys! w00t

I cheated a little and had the PCBs all stuffed before the panels even arrived... And fortunately for me, there were no mistakes to debug excepting possibly the Lockhart section. I did wire one pot (Serge VCF audio input) backwards, but I always do something like that. I'll dig down and fix it at some point, it just needs a wire swap.

When you're wiring the panel, go slowly and doublecheck your connections. You're not going to want to go debugging and making corrections once it's all done. Try to keep things as tidy as you can with wire ties, and make sure you cut the wire with enough slack that you can still manipulate the PCB stack once it's all put together. You don't want to have to cut wires in order to get to the solder-side of any of the 3 boards - in case you need to modify/debug. I did it so that all of my wiring runs over the top edge of the PCBs. I can flip all 3 boards up toward the top that way - almost as if I'd used hinged standoffs a-la the CGS Serge panels.

Sounds... I'd like to sort the Lockhart section first but I'll try. Unless I get sidetracked building the Minisynth... hihi

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 07, 2011 11:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Here's one sample, E350 audio into the Serge VCF and then into the Steiner VCF. (LP->LP, BP->BP, HP->HP.) Serge cutoff is modulated by an LFO and the Steiner cutoff is modulated by a 208 Random. With high resonance on both filters, it's an interesting effect as the various cutoffs are swept through each other. The really nasal sound is the Serge at high resonance. So sweet.

[s]http://soundcloud.com/negativspace/cgs-msu-cascaded-vcfs[/s]

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 08, 2011 8:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

negativspace wrote:


I'm quite sensitive on depth... looks like the smaller boards on the top could maybe be mounted over the empty panel at the bottom there somehow.
Also would those two main big boards fit side by side if you go for the L-shaped rail mounting method?

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 08, 2011 10:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Monobass wrote:
Also would those two main big boards fit side by side if you go for the L-shaped rail mounting method?

Yes they would. See this post:

http://www.muffwiggler.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=628383#628383
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 08, 2011 3:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Yeah, you could definitely make it shallower if you wanted to. It's just under 70mm deep as-shown, including the power cable. (Got a 75mm Skiff? You're good.)
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 08, 2011 9:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Hmmm.... I'm not completely sure that the switch specified in the BOMs for the USG's is correct. From Ken's DUSG page, and the schematic there, I think that a 3-position SPDT switch (ON-OFF-ON) is actually required. A SP3T switch switches one input terminal between 3 output terminals, a SPDT ON-OFF-ON switches two input terminals alternately to one output terminal, with the third position (centre OFF) switching neither...

In the case of the DUSG board, we have two terminals (MA and MB) alternately being switched to a third (MC or ground) in position 1 (up) and 3 (down) on the switch, while in position 2 (centre), neither MA or MB are connected to MC (ground)... note that Ken does state on his page a SP3T switch is required as well, but shows 2 switches with 3 terminals (SP3T switches have 6 terminals I believe).

Please correct me if I'm wrong!

Cheers
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EDIT: Of course the converse is also true for the SP3T - you can switch 3 input terminals alternately to one output terminal, which would work in this case, but it is redundant - as MC is ground anyway, the centre position is just connecting ground back to ground...

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 09, 2011 1:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

I bought Mouser #633-M202402-RO for the Rise/Both/Fall switches in the Quad Slope. They better be right, they were pretty expensive! The have 6 terminals.
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 09, 2011 2:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

clarke68 wrote:
I bought Mouser #633-M202402-RO for the Rise/Both/Fall switches in the Quad Slope. They better be right, they were pretty expensive! The have 6 terminals.


I've bought the SP3T switches before, and as you say, they're pretty expensive. Which is why I'm a little hesitant to just grab them without checking thoroughly first...

Cheers
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 09, 2011 2:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Note that the BOM listed on the DUSG page at Ken's site states SPDT switches as well (though on-off-on isn't specified). However, the rough build instructions at the top of the page mention 1P3T switches... it's quite confusing.

Blair

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 09, 2011 7:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

heres some of my DUSG build shots. Just gotta wire to the pcbs now.








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PostPosted: Fri Dec 09, 2011 7:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

applause
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 10, 2011 2:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Nice looking build and all...but I'm jealous of your parts bins!
Quote:



Merry Christmas wiring!
Quote:



Great job so far, thanks for sharing!
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 10, 2011 3:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Looking good mate, let us know how you get on with the switch wiring...

I'm working on my MSU at the moment, going to see if I can replicate the issue negativspace was having with his Lockhart folder...

Cheers
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 10, 2011 3:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Looking good, wish i had jumped on the DUSG panel myself. Maybe there will be abother run someday.
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 10, 2011 7:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

regenbot
I've got extras of the the Quad Slope (and other) panels...send me a PM if you're interested!
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 11, 2011 9:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

So, any clarity on the DUSG switches? Looks to me (studying the schematic) as if it is supposed to be single pole on-off-on switches. It seems as if the switch is used to switch out (by grounding) the incoming cv signal. At one setting (cv fall) the cv going to rise is switched out, with cv rise it's the opposite and with both none of them is switched out. Quite clever really but 1P3T seems overkill?! hmmm.....
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 11, 2011 10:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

You only need a single pole on-off-on for the DUSG switch. if you have a double pole, just use one side.

(Sometimes, I thought about buying only double pole switches to get a price break and be sure to have stuff at home).
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 12, 2011 4:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

The front panel on that West Coast Mini Synth looks wonderful.
A shame I can't solder ... and I guess it would be way too expensive (man hours) to have someone else build it for you, right?
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 12, 2011 1:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

MicroFi wrote:
The front panel on that West Coast Mini Synth looks wonderful.

Thanks!

Having someone else build one for you would certainly be expensive, whether or not it's too expensive depends on how much money you have. hihi If you want to look in to it, the guy most people would recommend for the job is Todd over at The Sonic Workshop (although his site appears to be down at the moment).
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 12, 2011 6:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

In addition to Todd, whose reputation is outstanding, I also do custom building in Euro format. If I were quoting someone a price to build the Mini Synth, I'd put it somewhere in the $7-800 range. (For parts, PCBs, and labor - everything but the panel.) It's a chunk of money, but if you think about what's in the module it's right on par with the retail market.

2x VCO - ~$350
1x DUSG - ~$225
2x VCA + mixer for sum out - ~$150
1x Ringmod - $75
Total - ~$800

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 12, 2011 7:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

So i finished my quad dusg (will post pics and some build tips later) and for the most part its working.

So 1 and 3 are acting weird and 2 and 4 are working perfect. A bit weird to me, that half of each one wroks great and the other half is screwy. On 1 the switch is messing with the fall and rate times depending where the switch position is. If switch is at rise the rise pot works, if at fall the fall pot works. When at both neither pot works. seriously, i just don't get it

3 is just wack, cant get any enevelope action off it. Im gonna take the rest the day off and check my panel wiring and solder points tomorrow...

2 and 4 are working great though, used an on,off,on switch and it works great. Sounds great as vco and is also a great envelope gen. I cant wait to get 1 and 3 working.

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 12, 2011 7:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

negativspace wrote:
In addition to Todd, whose reputation is outstanding, I also do custom building in Euro format. If I were quoting someone a price to build the Mini Synth, I'd put it somewhere in the $7-800 range. (For parts, PCBs, and labor - everything but the panel.) It's a chunk of money, but if you think about what's in the module it's right on par with the retail market.


It's interesting to know there are people who do custom building on commission on here.
And actually ... I'm positively surprised about the quote you made there. I thought it would've been a lot more!

I'll keep it in mind for after the Xmas period (read: for when I've got some $$$ again) screaming goo yo
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 12, 2011 8:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

hrm im a little confused, I have all my pcbs, but it seems like my wave multiplier PCB seems a bit smaller in width than my synthacon filter/serge vcf. and the lockhart grider/lag fold is on another pcb, not sure how im gunna mount it now =/
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ringstone
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 12, 2011 11:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

fate wrote:
hrm im a little confused, I have all my pcbs, but it seems like my wave multiplier PCB seems a bit smaller in width than my synthacon filter/serge vcf. and the lockhart grider/lag fold is on another pcb, not sure how im gunna mount it now =/


That's weird... The one you want is CGS29 - it has a number of spare holes for dev purposes on the top side. There are other wave folder and similar PCBs such as CGS38 so perhaps you have an extra PCB?

Cheers
Blair

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 12, 2011 11:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

fate wrote:
hrm im a little confused, I have all my pcbs, but it seems like my wave multiplier PCB seems a bit smaller in width than my synthacon filter/serge vcf. and the lockhart grider/lag fold is on another pcb, not sure how im gunna mount it now =/


The PCBs you need for the MSU are:

CGS29
Wave Multiplier. The board is 6" x 2" and includes the Wave Multiplier, the Lockhart folder, and the Grinder.

CGS35
Synthacon VCF, called the "Steiner" on the panel. This board is 6" x 1"

CGS77
Serge '73 VCF, 6" x 2".

You can put them together like this:


..or, with brackets, like this:
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clarke68
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 12, 2011 11:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

negativspace wrote:
If I were quoting someone a price to build the Mini Synth, I'd put it somewhere in the $7-800 range. (For parts, PCBs, and labor - everything but the panel.)
MicroFi wrote:
And actually ... I'm positively surprised about the quote you made there. I thought it would've been a lot more!


I agree...that sounds like a really good deal!
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negativspace
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 13, 2011 12:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Ok, fine. $1,000 it is. w00t

Admittedly I haven't built my Mini-Synth yet so that was a bit of a blind guess... but I don't think it's far off. There aren't many expensive parts on these boards. I'm just now beginning to stuff the PCBs, though, so I'll know exactly what's involved by the end of the year.

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 13, 2011 6:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Sorry for interrupting you guys, but as my pms don't seem to get through I'd like to ask here in public if all panels are sold or if there are any left.
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 13, 2011 9:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

So, given that we don't need the dual switch... what would be a suitable replacement?
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clarke68
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 13, 2011 10:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

hv0190 wrote:
Sorry for interrupting you guys, but as my pms don't seem to get through I'd like to ask here in public if all panels are sold or if there are any left.

Yup, there are panels left. If PM isn't working, you can try me by email: clarke at robinsononline dot com.
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 13, 2011 5:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

So I spent way too much time last night stuffing my Mini Synth PCBs... ended up going to bed at about 9 this morning. Dead Banana

But while doing all of that really... 'brain-neutral' work, I got to thinking about the final result of my labors. A Mini-Synth + MSU give you so many possibilities (even 2 complete voices, if you like) in 64hp. But while it has all of the major modules covered, some of the basics are completely neglected. There's no mixer, really, and no attenuators. No multiples, either, and since many of the modules had their extra inputs and input attenuators omitted to save space on the panels... well, you're going to need that kinda stuff to really get this thing patched up.

So I hatched the idea of a 16hp 'control' panel to complement this line. My sketch has 3 attenuators with the .75" knobs across the top ~third, a 3-input bipolar mixer with a unipolar output attenuator using 4x .5" knobs across the middle, and then 3 sets of 4 jacks for passive mults along the bottom. The only PCB this one would require is a CGS04 for the middle section, the others are passive and simply need to be wired at the panel.

Mathematically, it's also very convenient. 64 + 16 = 80, so add a Happy Ending kit with the 4hp uZeus and you completely fill the 84hp with a complete synthesizer.

Whatcha think? seriously, i just don't get it

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 13, 2011 10:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

negativspace wrote:

So I hatched the idea of a 16hp 'control' panel to complement this line. My sketch has 3 attenuators with the .75" knobs across the top ~third, a 3-input bipolar mixer with a unipolar output attenuator using 4x .5" knobs across the middle, and then 3 sets of 4 jacks for passive mults along the bottom. The only PCB this one would require is a CGS04 for the middle section, the others are passive and simply need to be wired at the panel.

Mathematically, it's also very convenient. 64 + 16 = 80, so add a Happy Ending kit with the 4hp uZeus and you completely fill the 84hp with a complete synthesizer.

Whatcha think? seriously, i just don't get it


Huh, was just thinking last night how I would have to buy/build some attenuators/mults/mixers to complement these modules, so that is a big thumbs up from me!!! thumbs up Actually I need more utility modules full stop so I will probably get 4 of these all up...

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 13, 2011 10:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Veqtor wrote:
So, given that we don't need the dual switch... what would be a suitable replacement?


I don't have a reference # (I just bought them off the shelf at Jaycar) but I believe that a 3 position SPDT switch, ON-OFF-ON, will be suitable.

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 14, 2011 2:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

I love the idea negativspace! My only thought is that you match the same design work as clarkes as id love it to match the other panels graphically. How cool will the minisynth, msu, quad dusg, quad lpg, Funky drummer, and this attenuator/mixer panel be. Total powerhouse of diy goodness.
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 14, 2011 2:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

negativspace wrote:
Whatcha think? seriously, i just don't get it

Awesome idea! I'd be happy to:

1.) do it
2.) support you if you want to do it
3.) buy one off you if you want to do it without my support

Let me know!
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 14, 2011 2:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

+1 for a Clarke designed utility panel. I'm using these panels as a self contained portable rig and will certainly need basic mixers, mults, vcas, etc.

It might not be as essential if you are using the panels as part of a bigger system though....
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 14, 2011 2:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

I'd like to see you do it, it needs to be in your style and that's your domain. If you're willing, that's great. w00t
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 14, 2011 2:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Id just like to say how much i love this damn community!
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 14, 2011 4:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

I'd love to see some 292 and 281 panels to smile
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 14, 2011 4:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

so I got 3 of 4 of the quad dusg's working, theres still one that is sort of working but its doing some weird shit that i dont get. for some reason when recieving a trigger or when self cycling the fall knob only works when the "fall" setting is selected on the rise/both/ fall switch. same with the rise, only works when rise is selected on the switch. when switched to both neither work...wtf? ive checked my wiring and everything is where it should be, its really baffling me...all other 3 work exactly as they should.

any ideas or thoughts would be awesome.

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 15, 2011 10:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

rico loverde wrote:
so I got 3 of 4 of the quad dusg's working, theres still one that is sort of working but its doing some weird shit that i dont get. for some reason when recieving a trigger or when self cycling the fall knob only works when the "fall" setting is selected on the rise/both/ fall switch. same with the rise, only works when rise is selected on the switch. when switched to both neither work...wtf? ive checked my wiring and everything is where it should be, its really baffling me...all other 3 work exactly as they should.

any ideas or thoughts would be awesome.


I would try disconnecting MA,MB, MC temporarily to see if this alleviates the issue (this should be the equivalent of the switch in centre or BOTH position). If it works, problem is with the switch or wiring thereof, otherwise, it's on the board somewhere...

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 16, 2011 1:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Hi,

negativspace wrote:
So I hatched the idea of a 16hp 'control' panel to complement this line. My sketch has 3 attenuators with the .75" knobs across the top ~third, a 3-input bipolar mixer with a unipolar output attenuator using 4x .5" knobs across the middle, and then 3 sets of 4 jacks for passive mults along the bottom. The only PCB this one would require is a CGS04 for the middle section, the others are passive and simply need to be wired at the panel.


Yeah,I like the idea. thumbs up

What about a simple inverter? Two jacks,in and out,a simple op-amp circuit on perfboard,thatīs it.

And maybe a 5V voltage-source for generating offsets. One pot,one jack and some parts on perfboard,very simpel.

Cheers
Greg

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 16, 2011 1:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

...and yes,

one or two simple vcas always come in handy... hihi

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 16, 2011 6:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Well, the nice thing about the panel I had in mind is that you can fancy it up a little if you want - take the attenuators and add an opamp on stripboard as you say, makes them attenuverters. (My plan.)

Of course there's a lot of utility stuff that would really help out here but we've only got so many hp to work with. hihi

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PostPosted: Sat Dec 17, 2011 7:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Hi mate,

negativspace wrote:
...take the attenuators and add an opamp on stripboard as you say, makes them attenuverters. (My plan.)


...or take the multiples and add an opamp to make them active and reverse one of the outs for inverting signals

Something like this: http://www.analoguesystems.co.uk/pdf/RS230.pdf

Got the idea...Guinness ftw!



negativspace wrote:
Of course there's a lot of utility stuff that would really help out here but we've only got so many hp to work with. hihi


Right! Letīs see what Clarke can get out of 16hp. love

Cheers
Greg

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PostPosted: Sat Dec 17, 2011 7:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

... or I suppose you could also use push-pull switchpots + opamps on the attenuators to make them bipolar but with full-muting. And buffer your mults, or make 2 sets horizontally with 1 in, 4 outs and an inverted out. Or whatever!

I like it, a panel that can be as much or as little as you want it to be. Looking forward to this! I've begun work on my Mini Synth now and I know I'm going to need it.

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PostPosted: Sat Dec 17, 2011 7:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Hi,

negativspace wrote:
I like it, a panel that can be as much or as little as you want it to be...and I know I'm going to need it.


we're not worthy

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simfonik
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 18, 2011 2:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

@negativspace – if it's readily accessible, would you mind taking a hi-res picture of the stuffed CGS35? I'm building mine today and it'd be helpful as an additional reference.
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negativspace
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 18, 2011 2:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Sure, that one sits on top of the stack. Easy to take pics. It's a pretty easy build, though, you shouldn't have problems.
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 18, 2011 3:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Thanks. I bought a parts kit from Todd Fletcher for each of the PCBs on the MSU build. I'm sorting resistors for CGS35 right now and this is what I have:


82R 1
330R 1
390R 1
1k 6
2k2 4
3k9 1
8k2 1
10k 1
47k 4
100k 1
180k 1
220k 3
390k 1
2M2 1

There are also 4x 470k resistors. I'm not sure what those are for. The only thing left for resistors in Ken Stone's part list is: "1k lin pot 1", "100k 25 turn trim 1", "100k lin pot 1 (2)".
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simfonik
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 18, 2011 5:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Got an answer from Todd on the (4) 470k resistors. Looks like there were just some extras in the bag. hihi
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ringstone
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 18, 2011 6:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

There are different versions of the CGS boards, which have slightly different BOMs (Ken usually combines them), and in some cases there are off-board and even optional components as well... just follow the board overlay, checking the relevant CGS page for any build issues etc. and you should be right.

The only issue I have found so far is that there is a 330R resistor required for the Wave Multiplier board that's not in Ken's BOM... I was going to mention this before but it slipped my mind. Not an issue for me as I keep a full stock of resistors but might be an annoyance if you're putting a BOM into Mouser or similar... Ken uses a lot of 330R resistors so it's probably worth ordering a few extra if you're building CGS boards.

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 18, 2011 7:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

finally got all 4 dusg's running...


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PostPosted: Sun Dec 18, 2011 7:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Sounds great, Rico!
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 18, 2011 7:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

My component kit for the CGS35 came with these capacitors:

1uF 50V ... assuming in place of 1uF 35V (4)
10uF 50V ... assuming in place of 10uF 35V (4)
47uF 35V ... assuming in place of 47uF 25V (2)

Are there any issues with using higher voltage capacitors?
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 18, 2011 7:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

simfonik wrote:
My component kit for the CGS35 came with these capacitors:

1uF 50V ... assuming in place of 1uF 35V (4)
10uF 50V ... assuming in place of 10uF 35V (4)
47uF 35V ... assuming in place of 47uF 25V (2)

Are there any issues with using higher voltage capacitors?

Not at all! cool
These will work just fine.

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 18, 2011 7:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

wmonk wrote:
simfonik wrote:
My component kit for the CGS35 came with these capacitors:

1uF 50V ... assuming in place of 1uF 35V (4)
10uF 50V ... assuming in place of 10uF 35V (4)
47uF 35V ... assuming in place of 47uF 25V (2)

Are there any issues with using higher voltage capacitors?

Not at all! cool
These will work just fine.


Thanks! Mr. Green
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 18, 2011 8:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Nice, Rico. Are we the first two, or are you other guys just holding out? I wanna see more!

I'll have a Mini-Synth finished in the next week, waiting for one last parts order from Mouser and then the wiring begins. Finished my second MSu last night. screaming goo yo

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 18, 2011 8:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

I would be MUCH further along with these builds except
a) Xmas
b) I have a few other slightly more urgent things like power supplies to finish off lol
c) Xmas
d) Xmas

d'oh!

Cheers
Blair

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 18, 2011 8:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

I've built 2 MSUs and 13 other modules in the last 2 weeks. (And stuffed the PCBs and panel for a Mini-Synth.) Granted I basically do this full-time, but still... I don't want excuses. Sleep when you're dead! zombie hihi
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 18, 2011 8:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

negativspace wrote:
Nice, Rico. Are we the first two, or are you other guys just holding out? I wanna see more!

I'll have a Mini-Synth finished in the next week, waiting for one last parts order from Mouser and then the wiring begins. Finished my second MSu last night. screaming goo yo
ive been going full tilt again with the building (and its the busiest time of the year for me work wise) Got the dusg done, mini synth boards stuffed (waiting on parts to finish) and built an rcd/scm w breakouts for a friend. sleep? who needs sleep?
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 18, 2011 8:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

See, that's what I'm talking about.
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 18, 2011 9:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

negativspace wrote:
I've built 2 MSUs and 13 other modules in the last 2 weeks. (And stuffed the PCBs and panel for a Mini-Synth.) Granted I basically do this full-time, but still... I don't want excuses. Sleep when you're dead! zombie hihi


Yes SAH!!! Please, there's no need to use the whip again... lol

Blair

BTW Rico, what did the problem with your DUSG end up being? I am probably going to do these next but it looks like there could be a few traps for unwary builders there, any tips would be gratefully received...

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rico loverde
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 18, 2011 9:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

ringstone wrote:
negativspace wrote:
I've built 2 MSUs and 13 other modules in the last 2 weeks. (And stuffed the PCBs and panel for a Mini-Synth.) Granted I basically do this full-time, but still... I don't want excuses. Sleep when you're dead! zombie hihi


Yes SAH!!! Please, there's no need to use the whip again... lol

Blair

BTW Rico, what did the problem with your DUSG end up being? I am probably going to do these next but it looks like there could be a few traps for unwary builders there, any tips would be gratefully received...
Well, i built three of them at once ( 2 for the quad 1 for mini synth) i checked the switches and wiring and went over the board countless times and couldnt get it. So i swapped it out for the one i was gonna use on the mini synth. Tomorrow im gonna check for broken traces, wrong parts etc on the messed up one. Honestly though im having a hell of a time figuring it out. seriously, i just don't get it i plan on making a list of some stuff that gave me trouble.. Ill try to do that tomorrow as well.

Btw id like to thank Clarke again for the awesome panel, Ken and Serge for the great circuit designs, and Laurie for the wonderful part kits... thumbs up

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simfonik
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 18, 2011 9:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

@negativspace - on CGS35, did you leave off the 2 diodes that are to the left and above the 2n2's? On Ken's site it states, "For use with +/-12 volt supplies, the two diodes marked with rings around their pads on the overlay should be replaced with links."

It seems pretty obvious those are the two to leave off, but it doesn't hurt to double check.
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negativspace
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 18, 2011 10:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

ringstone wrote:

Yes SAH!!! Please, there's no need to use the whip again... lol


The Agonizer!


simfonik wrote:
on CGS35, did you leave off the 2 diodes that are to the left and above the 2n2's?


Yep, replace those two with wire links. I haven't tried it with all 8 installed to see what the difference is, I'm just following instructions. hihi

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clarke68
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 19, 2011 3:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

negativspace wrote:
I've built 2 MSUs and 13 other modules in the last 2 weeks. (And stuffed the PCBs and panel for a Mini-Synth.)

rico loverde wrote:
ive been going full tilt again with the building (and its the busiest time of the year for me work wise) Got the dusg done, mini synth boards stuffed (waiting on parts to finish) and built an rcd/scm w breakouts for a friend.


You guys are real men. we're not worthy

I just finished a new synth case so I have somewhere to put all these new modules. I'm still woefully behind on Christmas, and have a bunch of LPG panels to ship out...I doubt I'll be finishing anything more until 2012.

Really awesome to hear the sounds you're making with these...looking forward to more!
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 19, 2011 4:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

clarke68 wrote:

fate wrote:
did you make the angled aluminum pieces that go on the standoffs?

I did. I made them from 1/2" L-bracket...available at any hardware store. It doesn't have to be L-bracket, just a flat piece of aluminum will work. Mark the holes and drill by hand. I'm going to post a few more pictures in the post above later on today.


Dumb question. I've gone to a couple hardware stores around here and can't seem to source this L bracket. They always point me to the roofing section and then when all I see is flimsy gutter type material I wander around and have yet to find it that way either. Is there a more common name that I can ask about when I get there?

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rico loverde
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 19, 2011 4:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

bkbirge wrote:
clarke68 wrote:

fate wrote:
did you make the angled aluminum pieces that go on the standoffs?

I did. I made them from 1/2" L-bracket...available at any hardware store. It doesn't have to be L-bracket, just a flat piece of aluminum will work. Mark the holes and drill by hand. I'm going to post a few more pictures in the post above later on today.


Dumb question. I've gone to a couple hardware stores around here and can't seem to source this L bracket. They always point me to the roofing section and then when all I see is flimsy gutter type material I wander around and have yet to find it that way either. Is there a more common name that I can ask about when I get there?
i found mine at ace hardware, in the window section, they had the L shaped ones and flat ones, i used the flat one
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clarke68
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 19, 2011 4:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

This is the stuff:
1/2 in. x 96 in. Aluminum Angle Bar

It's kind of hard to ask for by name. I usually find it in the hardware section (with the screws & nuts) next to the threaded rods and other long, metal products. As Rico said, flat works fine if you can find that...just avoid steel or anything so thick it'll be a pain to drill.
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 19, 2011 4:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Awesome, thanks guys.
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 19, 2011 8:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

follow up question to the L brackets while we are on that subject.
what do you guys use to drill holes in brackets and faceplates?
can you use a regular power drill with a special bit or something?

any tips would be great.
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 19, 2011 11:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

asterisk wrote:
follow up question to the L brackets while we are on that subject.
what do you guys use to drill holes in brackets and faceplates?
can you use a regular power drill with a special bit or something?

any tips would be great.


A special bit is not really required, a good quality general purpose drill bit should be fine, aluminium is quite soft. If you check the drill bit when you buy it at the hardware store it should state whether it is suitable for aluminium. A drill press will generally do a more precise job but it's not essential. Though I wish I had used mine for the first brackets I did as I managed to do a pretty average job with the power drill lol A punch to mark the spots to drill is a handy accessory as well...

Cheers
Blair

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 20, 2011 1:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Two boards stuffed and one to go. I just noticed CGS29 has SMT components. Any suggestions on how to work with these?
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 20, 2011 2:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

simfonik wrote:
Two boards stuffed and one to go. I just noticed CGS29 has SMT components. Any suggestions on how to work with these?
For the smt stuff i usually use a pair of small needlenose pliers. I put a little solder on one pad and the with the pliers position it into to place a heat w the solder spot. Once in place i tack the other side.
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 20, 2011 2:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

rico loverde wrote:
Well, i built three of them at once ( 2 for the quad 1 for mini synth) i checked the switches and wiring and went over the board countless times and couldnt get it. So i swapped it out for the one i was gonna use on the mini synth. Tomorrow im gonna check for broken traces, wrong parts etc on the messed up one. Honestly though im having a hell of a time figuring it out. seriously, i just don't get it i plan on making a list of some stuff that gave me trouble.. Ill try to do that tomorrow as well.


I just stuffed my first DUSG board, and double checked it against the shots you had posted of yours. I was a little concerned I may have the transistors the wrong way round (mine are opposite to the board overlay) and I was happy to see that mine were the same as yours. With one exception - on one of your boards you seem to have one of the 2N4250/2N3906 transistors the other way around (same as the overlay), which might account for your problems with that board.

Cheers
Blair

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 20, 2011 2:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

asterisk wrote:
what do you guys use to drill holes in brackets and faceplates?

any tips would be great.

I use a regular plug-in hand drill and the bits it came with...pretty sure mine is like a $40 Black & Decker or some other common brand.

The best trick I know is to use some kind of punch (I use a scratch awl and a hammer) to make a small starter dent...this will keep your drill from "walking". 1/8" is the size bit I use to drill holes in the brackets, but it's a good size to start with no matter what you need...drilling larger holes (like for pots) is easier with an 1/8" starter hole.


simfonik wrote:
I just noticed CGS29 has SMT components. Any suggestions on how to work with these?

Good tutorial here that illustrates the method Rico described above (and a few others):

http://www.infidigm.net/articles/solder/
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 20, 2011 3:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

I tried to use small tweezers for smd, but later found it easiest to just use the nail on my finger to put the part in place. The key is to be very sparse with how much solder you use.
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 20, 2011 3:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

@ringstone, i caught it and changed it. They should all be opposite of the board overlay.
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 20, 2011 11:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

I finished stuffing PCBs on CGS35 and CGS77. Hoping to finish this project over the coming weekend. I'm not quite sure how to do the SMT components on CGS29 and I'm also wondering how to run power to the boards. Looking at the picture of the MSU negativspace finished, there doesn't appear to be 4 pin connectors on each of the boards. I'm assuming it can be setup to run off of a single power connector? hmmm.....
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 20, 2011 11:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

I used the prototyping area on the CGS29 to set up a 'power bus' of sorts, from which I then powered all of the other modules.

The SMT caps are actually pretty easy - apply a dab of solder to one of the two pads per pair. Then grab a part with tweezers and while re-melting that dab of solder, slide it onto the pad. Then solder the other side, and afterwards go reflow the first side if necessary. You don't need a lot of solder. Check the back of the CGS35, there are SMT caps back there too.

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 21, 2011 12:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Whoops. Didn't realize I actually posted part of the same question last night. Sorry about that. Guess it was late. oops

Thanks for the tips on the SMT caps. I don't think there were SMT caps in my component kit for the CGS35. Are they essential?

If you can share any additional details on how you set up the 'power bus' on the CGS29 I'd be most grateful.
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 21, 2011 12:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

For power i wire all the boards together and on the last board use the standard MTA 156 connector. Mattson modular has some great mta156 to euro power cables that i use to connect to a standard euro power supply. The link is below...

http://www.mattsonminimodular.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_inf o&products_id=48&zenid=3efcc6e43010cef96ba7054bb7395509

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 21, 2011 12:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Well, there's already a ground trunk in the proto space so that's taken care of. For +v and -v, you just run some wires from the MTA156's pads over to the pins for the IC. Use wire to jumper a few of the 'IC' pads together so that you have 2 or 3 pads connected to +v and to -v. There's plenty of pins to work with (8) so you can do 3 each with a little empty space in between, which is how I did it. That gives you one spare connection, which is probably unnecessary but does no harm.

There are traces already on the board connecting the IN pads to adjacent pads. Run wires from the adjacent, connected pads out to each module's power input pads, and you're all good. (Oh yeah, and the grounds all to the ground trunk of course.)

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 21, 2011 4:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

I got around to testing and calibrating MSU panel #2 tonight, and took the opportunity to record a little demo of the Steiner VCF.

[s]http://soundcloud.com/negativspace/cgs-msu-steiner-filter[/s]

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 21, 2011 12:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Out of interest, how much roughly does it cost for all the parts for something like the West Coast Mini Synth or other modules featured here?



.....which all look gorgeous. we're not worthy
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 21, 2011 1:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

aL Pariah wrote:
Out of interest, how much roughly does it cost for all the parts for something like the West Coast Mini Synth or other modules featured here?



.....which all look gorgeous. we're not worthy


My parts list (on p.3 of thread I think) from Mouser says about $120 for the Funky Drummer and about $215 for the MiniSynth +shipping. That doesn't include PCB's from Ken Stone (cost me another $150 for enough for both modules) nor does it include a few specialty parts from bridechamber and/or ebay. Add the charge for each panel to it for your total cost. Unless you want to count your build time in there too.

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 21, 2011 2:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

heres a little demo of the DUSG, no other modules were used except some reverb from a Malekko Chiklet

This thing is great, Im really enjoying it.

[s]http://soundcloud.com/deadlover/dusg-demo-1[/s]

http://soundcloud.com/deadlover/dusg-demo-1

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 21, 2011 2:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

As a kind of warming-up exercise (and because I know my pcbs for the Westcoast Minisynth and the Quadslope will not arrive before the end of January) I built a perfboard-version of the DUSG ... in fact it is only a SUSG, but it works fine, even if it looks more like a bird's nest!
As I didn't have any more space on my 4HP Eurorack panel I left out the 1v/oct input and the bipolar and AC outputs (though I tried them out and they seemd to work OK). Tracking was fair (ca. 2-3 octaves).
As for the price: the perfboard SUSG including all the hardware amounts to ca. 30 Euro (ca. $39), the Quadslope will cost me around 170$ - provided German customs won't intercept the pcbs, but even including customs fees it would only be around 185$ ... quite a good deal, I think Rockin' Banana!

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 21, 2011 8:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Are 47K pots acceptable replacements for the 50k lin and log pots?
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 21, 2011 10:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Monobass wrote:
Are 47K pots acceptable replacements for the 50k lin and log pots?


Generally most carbon pots have only 20% tolerance so I think you should be fine. You could always order a few more and pick the closest to 50k hihi

Cheers
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rico loverde: Brilliant demo there - the (simulated) spring reverb was spot on too!

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 03, 2012 2:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Got back into building after Xmas, but this MSU has to be the most disaster-prone project I've ever built very frustrating First off the Steiner filter board ended up with numerous problems (all my fault - don't build when you aren't feeling well!) but I seem to have ironed most if not all of them out now. After building the Wave Multiplier board only the Grinder was working (and I'm not 100% sure it's correct). I've just diagnosed the issue with the Lockhardt - it turned out that the board I have is missing a connection to the negative rail from the 15k resistor on the 2N3904 - connected that and it sprang into life. Still nothing from the Wave Multiplier though meh

At least the Serge filter worked first up!

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 03, 2012 7:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

ringstone, that doesn't fill me with confidence for my build! eek! cool
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 03, 2012 8:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Monobass wrote:
ringstone, that doesn't fill me with confidence for my build! eek! cool


Oh, I'm sure it's just me hihi I made a lot of mistakes stuffing these boards, and this was just compounded by one PCB error (or what appears to be). The rest will probably go fine as they usually do...

Cheers
Blair

EDIT: And my wave multiplier is working now. It was a bad batch of CA3080 - fortunately I did have some good ones from another supplier. Gotta be careful out there kids!

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 03, 2012 9:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

ringstone wrote:
I've just diagnosed the issue with the Lockhardt - it turned out that the board I have is missing a connection to the negative rail from the 15k resistor on the 2N3904 - connected that and it sprang into life.

Sorry to hear about the troubles. Which version of CGS29 do you have? Did you let Ken know about the problem with the missing negative rail connection?
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 03, 2012 10:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

clarke68 wrote:
ringstone wrote:
I've just diagnosed the issue with the Lockhardt - it turned out that the board I have is missing a connection to the negative rail from the 15k resistor on the 2N3904 - connected that and it sprang into life.

Sorry to hear about the troubles. Which version of CGS29 do you have? Did you let Ken know about the problem with the missing negative rail connection?


This was a V2.1 board, here is a close-up of the top left of the board with the disconnected pad circled:


(Hopefully this is ok to post here, if you see this Ken and it's not, please PM me and I'll remove it ASAP).

I've only diagnosed this today and wanted to be 110% sure it wasn't my stuff up, I will email Ken tomorrow as it's pretty late here now.

Anyway, these are not problems, they're challenges lol

Cheers
Blair

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 03, 2012 11:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Stuffed all PCB's for the funky drummer, now comes the difficult part, wiring up the i/o to the panel and then troubleshooting my inevitable mistakes.
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 03, 2012 12:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

I'll pull mine out of the rack here shortly and doublecheck that pad...
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 03, 2012 2:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

I'm going with these Malekko/Livewire style knobs from Small Bear.


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 03, 2012 2:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Looks awesome! thumbs up
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 03, 2012 3:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

as do the panels, really great work clarke screaming goo yo
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negativspace
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 03, 2012 4:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Blair,

That resistor is definitely not connected to -v, and definitely should be according to the schematic. Clearly an error in the PCB layout.

It's definitely doing what it should be doing now, too. SlayerBadger!

(Sad thing is, I went over this section of the PCB like twice myself and didn't catch that.)

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ringstone
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 03, 2012 7:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

negativspace wrote:
Blair,

That resistor is definitely not connected to -v, and definitely should be according to the schematic. Clearly an error in the PCB layout.

It's definitely doing what it should be doing now, too. SlayerBadger!

(Sad thing is, I went over this section of the PCB like twice myself and didn't catch that.)


w00t Glad to help!

Cheers
Blair

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simfonik
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 08, 2012 11:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

ringstone wrote:
clarke68 wrote:
ringstone wrote:
I've just diagnosed the issue with the Lockhardt - it turned out that the board I have is missing a connection to the negative rail from the 15k resistor on the 2N3904 - connected that and it sprang into life.

Sorry to hear about the troubles. Which version of CGS29 do you have? Did you let Ken know about the problem with the missing negative rail connection?


This was a V2.1 board, here is a close-up of the top left of the board with the disconnected pad circled:


(Hopefully this is ok to post here, if you see this Ken and it's not, please PM me and I'll remove it ASAP).

I've only diagnosed this today and wanted to be 110% sure it wasn't my stuff up, I will email Ken tomorrow as it's pretty late here now.

Anyway, these are not problems, they're challenges lol

Cheers
Blair


Can you illustrate how you resolved this?
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negativspace
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 09, 2012 12:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

All you need to do is connect the pad circled in red to the -V rail. One of the '-VE' pad just up above it should work fine.
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 09, 2012 11:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Thanks. That's what I was thinking.

SMT turned out to be much easier than I thought it would be. Thanks again for the tips on how to do that.
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 09, 2012 1:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Started the panel wiring on the funky drummer this weekend and I think I fell down the rabbit hole. Just connecting the grounds together on the kobi's was quite an exercise. I think I need glasses.

I chose to use some 28 gauge ribbon I had lying around for most of the connections from the pcb boards, saves a lot of time from my usual method of measuring out hook up wire, cutting it on both ends, tinning it, and not misplacing it before use. Time will tell how sturdy it is, not usually a fan of ribbon. If you are doing the same make sure you use the strain relief holes on the CGS PCB's as described on Ken's site.

For anyone using the Mouser BOM for the FunkyDrummer that I posted on page 3 or 4, there are few parts missing... you'll need some more 1.8k ohm resistors, another 557 transistor, a 0.47uf cap, and the proper standoffs (thought I put those in the BOM but I don't have 'em so I guess not).

Also seriously thinking about getting a special nut driver for those kobi nuts. My panel now has that trendy 'distressed' look in a couple places.

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 09, 2012 1:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

bkbirge wrote:
Started the panel wiring on the funky drummer this weekend and I think I fell down the rabbit hole. Just connecting the grounds together on the kobi's was quite an exercise. I think I need glasses.

I chose to use some 28 gauge ribbon I had lying around for most of the connections from the pcb boards, saves a lot of time from my usual method of measuring out hook up wire, cutting it on both ends, tinning it, and not misplacing it before use. Time will tell how sturdy it is, not usually a fan of ribbon. If you are doing the same make sure you use the strain relief holes on the CGS PCB's as described on Ken's site.

For anyone using the Mouser BOM for the FunkyDrummer that I posted on page 3 or 4, there are few parts missing... you'll need some more 1.8k ohm resistors, another 557 transistor, a 0.47uf cap, and the proper standoffs (thought I put those in the BOM but I don't have 'em so I guess not).

Also seriously thinking about getting a special nut driver for those kobi nuts. My panel now has that trendy 'distressed' look in a couple places.
im about to start mine... this one looks like it will be a killer. would love to see some pics of your wiring as u go...
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bkbirge
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 09, 2012 2:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

rico loverde wrote:
bkbirge wrote:
... FunkyDrummer ...
im about to start mine... this one looks like it will be a killer. would love to see some pics of your wiring as u go...


My wiring is a far cry from the pro's I've seen post here but I'll post a pic when I get a chance.

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Monobass
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 09, 2012 3:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Is there any potential for crosstalk in a ribbon?

like I was reading how when computer ribbons went from IDE to ATA the ATA cables had double the wires, but only because they were alternately interleaved with grounds as a shield.

I appreciate 21st century computers and 20th century synth modules are not quite the same use case smile

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ringstone
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 09, 2012 5:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

bkbirge wrote:
Just connecting the grounds together on the kobi's was quite an exercise. I think I need glasses.


I use the small square block-type sockets, this makes it quite easy to twist all the grounds 90 degrees the same way and run a heavy gauge bare wire through them all in one go. It's a pre-tinned 22 AWG copper wire I buy on a spool. Each "line" gets connected this way, then all are tied together and soldered. The various ground wires from all the individual boards are also run to this as well. Gives the sockets some degree of mechanical bracing as well which ensures they don't go far even if the panel nut loosens.

Cheers
Blair

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negativspace
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 09, 2012 5:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Yep, I do it the same way. Bus wire is a lifesaver.
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 09, 2012 7:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

boards are populated, im all set to go except for the jacks which should be here any day now. below are pics of the quad LPG and the Mini synth. the mini synth is a monster!!! its a touch over 3.25 inches deep. the mini synth is with standoffs, i used velcro and standoffs on the QLPG and worked really well. very secure and way easier. the QLPG is just under 2 inches deep. i could prob get it down to 1.5 if I had the right standoffs..

mini synth









quad lpg




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clarke68
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 09, 2012 7:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

rico loverde wrote:
It may be a mini synth up front, but its a maxi synth behind the panel! cool

Nice job...much respect! we're not worthy


rico loverde wrote:
Now that is awesome. I'm all in on velcro after this.
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 09, 2012 11:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Funky Drummer wiring so far...




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PostPosted: Mon Jan 16, 2012 5:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Clarke, is this what you used between the PCBs and the L-brackets (as seen on page 4)?

http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Keystone-Electronics/PC104-SS/?qs= sGAEpiMZZMtzcnMBgC2bs6BJGZuB0hh0mw7X7jQZucM%3d
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 16, 2012 7:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

I'm wiring CGS35 (ver1.3) right now for the MSU build. Looking at the back of the frequency potentiometer (same as what I'm using), and comparing to the wiring diagram on Ken's site, which terminal gets the red wire? Is it the one on the side of the pot that has the notch or the opposite?
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clarke68
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 17, 2012 12:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

simfonik wrote:
Clarke, is this what you used between the PCBs and the L-brackets (as seen on page 4)?

http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Keystone-Electronics/PC104-SS/?qs= sGAEpiMZZMtzcnMBgC2bs6BJGZuB0hh0mw7X7jQZucM%3d

I used regular female/female standoffs between the bracket and PCB, but male/female standoffs between the "layers" of PCBs.

That's kind of cumbersome to describe, but the details of my build don't particularly matter...the fact that you figured out that at least one set of male/female standoffs makes construction easier tells me that you are well on your way.


simfonik wrote:
which terminal gets the red wire? Is it the one on the side of the pot that has the notch or the opposite?

I'm not sure which side of your pots has the notch, but according to Ken's wiring diagram, the red wire goes to the "clockwise" side of the pot.
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bensaddiction
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 17, 2012 12:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

@simfonik - bloody hell those standoffs are a rip off! is that each?


Try looking here - http://www.futurlec.com/Hardware.shtml range between $1.90-3.20 per pack of 12.

Although Futurlec don't carry the built-in male screw ones, I was hoping somebody might know of some "butless" m3 screws in existence? Otherwise I'll have to buy those overpriced ones
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ringstone
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 17, 2012 1:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

bensaddiction wrote:
@simfonik - bloody hell those standoffs are a rip off! is that each?


Try looking here - http://www.futurlec.com/Hardware.shtml range between $1.90-3.20 per pack of 12.

Although Futurlec don't carry the built-in male screw ones, I was hoping somebody might know of some "butless" m3 screws in existence? Otherwise I'll have to buy those overpriced ones


Not sure what you mean by "buttless"?

I buy most of this sort of stuff direct from Hong Kong/China ebayers, it's usually the same gear without several distributors making a cut on it...

Cheers
Blair

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 17, 2012 2:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

thanks for that ringstone! Just found some 10 packs of male/female for about $3.50 AUD with free postage on ebay

Thats quite a difference vs $8.51 each at Mouser
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ringstone
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 17, 2012 3:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

bensaddiction wrote:
thanks for that ringstone! Just found some 10 packs of male/female for about $3.50 AUD with free postage on ebay

Thats quite a difference vs $8.51 each at Mouser


Oh, no worries... there are a few of those ebay stores that are a little dodgy (I had some bad chips recently) but for things like this they are ok.

This sort of stuff I usually buy from wonderco_buy, but just recently I bought a couple of nylon hardware kits from electronics-salon - good quality at a good price. And I buy a fair bit from Tayda http://www.taydaelectronics.com/ - including a lot of pots - it's often more cost-effective if you're only getting a few things to buy from their ebay store.

Cheers
Blair

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 17, 2012 11:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Oh wow, you're not kidding on the price. I didn't even notice that until you pointed it out.

@Clarke, thanks that helps! Mr. Green


Another question on the MSU build... for CGS29, did you change the resistor values that are displayed in the diagram coming off of the Lockhart Folds pot?
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jbaken
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 20, 2012 2:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Hey, so I'm trying to sub-out the LM394 for the VCA/VCO and was wondering if it would be possible to use a JFET LSK389 instead of something like the SSM2210 which is expensive and harder to find.. thoughts?
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 20, 2012 3:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Has anyone tried the Serge Extended ADSR in Euro?
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ringstone
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 20, 2012 3:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

msprigings wrote:
Has anyone tried the Serge Extended ADSR in Euk
ro?


Yes, I have been hoping our talented friend Clarke might consider doing a panel for these someday...

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 20, 2012 3:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

How did you mount if it you don't mind me asking? I think the PCB is 6" which would be pretty deep I thought it might be a pretty cool dual type thing. The 1v/Oct input is quite cool as well. And yes a panel would be cool smile
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iopop
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 20, 2012 4:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Having the Mini Synth pcbs sandwiched as per rico loverde's build, will there be any trouble mounting such a module in a Doepfer LC case?

The data sheet for LC-9 say, "90 mm in the power supply area (bottom right), resp. approx. 110 mm in the remaining area". 110mm => 4.33" so on paper its possible. Im all new to euro and for this project I really need to buy a commercial case.
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 20, 2012 4:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

iopop wrote:
Having the Mini Synth pcbs sandwiched as per rico loverde's build, will there be any trouble mounting such a module in a Doepfer LC case?

The data sheet for LC-9 say, "90 mm in the power supply area (bottom right), resp. approx. 110 mm in the remaining area". 110mm => 4.33" so on paper its possible. Im all new to euro and for this project I really need to buy a commercial case.
its pretty deep, you could prob shave off a bit by using smaller standoffs, i posted the depth of mine somewhere, i think in the pics in this thread
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iopop
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 20, 2012 4:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Yup, 3.25" which is 82.55mm. Was that from panel to pcb or panel to highest component?
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 20, 2012 5:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

iopop wrote:
Yup, 3.25" which is 82.55mm. Was that from panel to pcb or panel to highest component?
yes it was
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 20, 2012 9:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

ringstone wrote:
bkbirge wrote:
Just connecting the grounds together on the kobi's was quite an exercise. I think I need glasses.


I use the small square block-type sockets, this makes it quite easy to twist all the grounds 90 degrees the same way and run a heavy gauge bare wire through them all in one go. It's a pre-tinned 22 AWG copper wire I buy on a spool. Each "line" gets connected this way, then all are tied together and soldered. The various ground wires from all the individual boards are also run to this as well. Gives the sockets some degree of mechanical bracing as well which ensures they don't go far even if the panel nut loosens.

Cheers
Blair


Could you possibly take a picture of this type of wiring? You just loop through each ground with a bare, tinned wire and then solder all after you have looped through?
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 20, 2012 10:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

obviousless wrote:
ringstone wrote:
bkbirge wrote:
Just connecting the grounds together on the kobi's was quite an exercise. I think I need glasses.


I use the small square block-type sockets, this makes it quite easy to twist all the grounds 90 degrees the same way and run a heavy gauge bare wire through them all in one go. It's a pre-tinned 22 AWG copper wire I buy on a spool. Each "line" gets connected this way, then all are tied together and soldered. The various ground wires from all the individual boards are also run to this as well. Gives the sockets some degree of mechanical bracing as well which ensures they don't go far even if the panel nut loosens.

Cheers
Blair


Could you possibly take a picture of this type of wiring? You just loop through each ground with a bare, tinned wire and then solder all after you have looped through?


That's pretty much it. If you use a thick enough gauge wire it is pretty rigid, and I use one that is already pre-tinned when I buy it. Would post a pic but I am holidays in sunny Queensland this week a long way away from my gear nanners

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 21, 2012 9:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

obviousless wrote:
ringstone wrote:
bkbirge wrote:
Just connecting the grounds together on the kobi's was quite an exercise. I think I need glasses.


I use the small square block-type sockets, this makes it quite easy to twist all the grounds 90 degrees the same way and run a heavy gauge bare wire through them all in one go. It's a pre-tinned 22 AWG copper wire I buy on a spool. Each "line" gets connected this way, then all are tied together and soldered. The various ground wires from all the individual boards are also run to this as well. Gives the sockets some degree of mechanical bracing as well which ensures they don't go far even if the panel nut loosens.

Cheers
Blair


Could you possibly take a picture of this type of wiring? You just loop through each ground with a bare, tinned wire and then solder all after you have looped through?


... do you mean like this?
(kinda sloppy first attempt)

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obviousless
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 21, 2012 10:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Ah, I see now. Thanks for the pixels! Enjoy your holiday. thumbs up
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 21, 2012 11:03 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Sorry mate, but I'm hv0190, not ringstone Mr. Green
I just thought this might be what he was thinking of ...
Oh - I wish I was on holiday right now Guinness ftw!

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 21, 2012 12:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

hv0190 wrote:
obviousless wrote:
ringstone wrote:
bkbirge wrote:
Just connecting the grounds together on the kobi's was quite an exercise. I think I need glasses.


I use the small square block-type sockets, this makes it quite easy to twist all the grounds 90 degrees the same way and run a heavy gauge bare wire through them all in one go. It's a pre-tinned 22 AWG copper wire I buy on a spool. Each "line" gets connected this way, then all are tied together and soldered. The various ground wires from all the individual boards are also run to this as well. Gives the sockets some degree of mechanical bracing as well which ensures they don't go far even if the panel nut loosens.

Cheers
Blair


Could you possibly take a picture of this type of wiring? You just loop through each ground with a bare, tinned wire and then solder all after you have looped through?


... do you mean like this?
(kinda sloppy first attempt)


Dumb question... which terminal on those Alpha pots is CW (re: CGS29 wiring diagram)? I'm pretty sure it's the side w/ the notch. Doesn't hurt to double check though.
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negativspace
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 21, 2012 1:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Alpha pots are easy, if you orient by the text on the back of the pot the lugs are (CW)ALPHA(CCW).
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 21, 2012 1:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

(CW)ALPHA(CCW) or (ʍɔɔ)ɐɥdןɐ(ʍɔ) is just what I was looking for. Thanks! applause
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 21, 2012 6:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

I finished my MSU... kind of. Plugged it in for a test before mounting the PCBs to brackets. I got sound from the Lockhart Grinder and the Wave Multiplier. Moved on to the Steiner, patched CV In and Out and I got FUUUCCKKKK!!! d'oh!
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 22, 2012 6:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

So has anyone finished and made a video of these in action yet?
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 30, 2012 8:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Hey, just as heads up, and I don't know if this has already been mentioned, but anyone order Mouser - 311-1902F from mouser for your Funky Drummer. If you use the online filter system and filter for 100k, the spec will say 100k, but the part number and the actual item says, and is, 1k. To make matters worse, if you take the part number 311-1902F-100K for the 100k, the spec says it's 10k Dead Banana. Trust the part number not the spec.
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 30, 2012 8:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Update: I just got off web chat with them. They are sending me a new set of the correct pots for free and they are going to have the warehouse fix the part number to spec info. I'd still check the number though wink.
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 30, 2012 11:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

I wanted to do the extended ADSR but 6" is too deep for my case. Soo I'm thinking making a larger module with 2 Serge ADSRs and 2 CGS VCA as they seem to mesh well and fit behind a eurorack panel somehow or another.

Anyone see any problems doing that?
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 30, 2012 12:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Thanks for sharing that, I need to check what I have, I didn't put 'em on the meter before I fixed 'em on the panel.

frozenkore wrote:
Hey, just as heads up, and I don't know if this has already been mentioned, but anyone order Mouser - 311-1902F from mouser for your Funky Drummer. If you use the online filter system and filter for 100k, the spec will say 100k, but the part number and the actual item says, and is, 1k. To make matters worse, if you take the part number 311-1902F-100K for the 100k, the spec says it's 10k Dead Banana. Trust the part number not the spec.

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 02, 2012 3:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Alright, I have a couple wiring questions on the funky drummer. I figure I'll get them all out before I get the chance to screw it up.

Gated Comparator:
The Manual Loop switch:

1) On the diagram from Ken's site, it says to wire one to +VE. I'm assuming that is the one at the end of the board by the LM393? The loop enable switch is also wired to that spot. Is that okay?

2) The next lead goes to a 15k resistor, then to pin 2 of the LM393. Do that literally mean connect it to the same pad as the second pin of the LM393?

3) The last goes to 8th output jack. I'm assuming I can just connect it directly to the jack where the jack connects to the board? I guess I don't know what can be linked together and what cannot.

4) The LED goes to 0V LED Return. Can I just connect this to any ground?

I'll have questions regarding the mixer as I'll be using the other part of the Digital Noise board for that, but I'm not there yet...

On the Digital Noise board:

The notes say if you're using switched jacks to follow the schematic. Speed CV In and External Clock In are the only two that have directions for all three parts of the jack. Does that mean everything else just uses the tip and the sleeve is left unconnected?

On the Pulse Divider board:

Reset switch goes to RST and ground?


Sorry for the noobish questions, but I'm good at following directions but when they're slightly vague, I don't do well, especially when I'm still new to the electronics aspect of this.

Thanks in advance!

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 02, 2012 3:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Seems I missed the CGS DUSG pcb train. Ken seems to be out of them and I haven't heard back from him on whether these will be restocked. Long shot...but anyone know where I can pick two up?
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 02, 2012 4:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

keninverse wrote:
Seems I missed the CGS DUSG pcb train. Ken seems to be out of them and I haven't heard back from him on whether these will be restocked. Long shot...but anyone know where I can pick two up?

Ken still has it listed as a regularly stocked PCB...he'll probably have more in a few weeks.


@ frozenkore: If you haven't already, you might try checking/asking in the Best of CGS Build Thread, as the Funky Drummer is functionally identical to the left half of Zthee's Sequencer panel.
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 02, 2012 4:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

clarke68 wrote:
@ frozenkore: If you haven't already, you might try checking/asking in the Best of CGS Build Thread, as the Funky Drummer is functionally identical to the left half of Zthee's Sequencer panel.


I hadn't, I'll check that out, thanks!

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 02, 2012 4:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

I bet he will restock them. Also, Ken is pretty good about returning email, so you will probably hear for sure soon.
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 02, 2012 4:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

I asked him about some other "out of stock" PCBs last week and he said "about a month?". So, just hang in there any they come back. Plus they are part of the BOG package so they are definitely not the last ones produces.
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 02, 2012 11:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Sweet...Thanks guys
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 03, 2012 9:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Got my panels (thanks clarke!)

Just wondering, anyone building these with bananas? any forseeable issues?

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PostPosted: Fri Feb 03, 2012 9:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

the bad producer wrote:
anyone building these with bananas? any forseeable issues?

To my knowledge, no one has tried it yet. If you're using the same bananas I have around (Emerson/Johnson), they take up about the same amount of space behind the panel as the 3.5mm jacks the panels are designed for, so there shouldn't be any problems there. Of course you'll need to drill out the mounting holes for them.

I had a normalized connection in mind for the mixer on the West Coast Mini Synth, but I think that's it on the panels you have. I'd love to hear/see how it goes...post some pics once you get going!
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 03, 2012 10:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

thanks clarke, I reckon I'll try it, if I did use 3.5mm sockets the ones I prefer are 8mm holes anyway... I've got pretty much all I need (I think) to get going this weekend!
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 11, 2012 1:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Does anyone have more details photos of the CGS MSU wiring? I'm a little confused very frustrating
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 11, 2012 9:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

fate wrote:
Does anyone have more details photos of the CGS MSU wiring? I'm a little confused very frustrating


What part are you having trouble with? I'll try and take you through it...

Cheers
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 12, 2012 12:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

I followed Ken's diagrams pretty faithfully, they're good.
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 12, 2012 10:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

i didn't find the diagrams til yesterday! thank you though - im having a bit of trouble though with a part. I ordered kits off of bridechamber for these, and as it stands I have most of the pcbs stuffed, but, I have 1 component that is a blue block labeled 1k250, I'm not sure if this would be 100n capacitor or not or if i need something else

-edit- i think i figured it out to be the 100n component!
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 14, 2012 5:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

how are the power connections made from module to module, and which is the final module to put the connector on to make it to a doepfer ribbon cable? - sorry for the stupid questions!
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 14, 2012 5:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List



I stack 'em like this, you can see the (very blurry) power connector there on the CGS29. Head over to the MMM store and pick up a couple of the 4P->Euro power cables George sells for your power connections.

I used the perfboard area on the CGS29 to make a little power distribution bus, and then ran wire from there to the other 2 modules.

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 14, 2012 5:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

fate wrote:
how are the power connections made from module to module, and which is the final module to put the connector on to make it to a doepfer ribbon cable? - sorry for the stupid questions!
i think this has been discussed earlier in this thread. i just wired from module to module, +12 to +12, -12 to -12, etc etc

On the last module I used one of the Mattson Modular .156 to euro cables he sells.

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 14, 2012 11:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Does anybody know what value the VC Sens pot on the Gated Comparator (Funky Drummer panel) should be? I have used 100k linear in line with most of the other CV inputs but I'm getting some interaction with the Sense pot when there is no CV in...

It took me a while to get my head around what the Gated Comparator does, at first I wasn't sure if mine was working correctly. I will write up a screed when I'm done describing how it works and how I wired this up as there are some shortcuts you can take.

Cheers
Blair

EDIT: Well, after I worked all this out I found I had re-invented the wheel, it was already over in the "Best of CGS" thread. Wiring for the gated comparator using the mixer on the Digital Noise board:

http://www.muffwiggler.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=17446&postdays=0&post order=asc&start=318

Note that purple wire on the Range pot goes to BOTH wiper and CCW.

I added a minor mod as follows - replaced the SPDT Loop Enable switch with a DPDT switch. One pole is wired as before, the other pole switches the input from the IN jack. That way both the loop input and In don't run into the comparator at the same time, as this just tends to fill the buffer up - you switch between them instead. Also when using the Manual Loop switch, you can loop the active buffer easily. Just flip the Manual Loop switch, then the Loop Enable switch, and the current contents of the buffer loop around.

Also, I ended up wiring the switched side of the Ext Clock jack on the Digital Noise to ground, as I was getting some jitter when the Switch was in the Ext position with no clock input. This will switch the noise off. Although it might seem redundant to have a switch for Int/Ext clock since we can use switched jacks in Euro format, I'm glad Clarke did it that way because you can switch back and forth between 2 different clocks.

Finally, the Reset switch is wired to +ve, first look at the schematic on the CGS site seemed to indicate it was ground. Don't know whether this was amended in between the time I first looked at it and when I checked, or whether it was lack of sleep!

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PostPosted: Sat Feb 18, 2012 1:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Oh! And before I forget - when testing the gated comparator: MAKE SURE YOU USE A NICE CLEAN SQUARE WAVE CLOCK! There is another comparator on the clock input that is supposed to clean it up but I found it wasn't completely effective, I had a clock that was too hot (Cwejman VCO) and it was clipping and causing all sorts of odd behaviour - skipping and occasional double speed steps for example.

Testing afterwards I found the clock input can be "fooled" with triangle/saw waves etc into producing all sorts of interesting semi-regular rhythmic patterns. So, a happy accident in the long run!

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PostPosted: Sat Feb 18, 2012 4:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

wiring up my minisynth, this one is hard. so much wiring in such a tight space. so far i have the 2 vcos and 1/2 the dusg done






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PostPosted: Sat Feb 18, 2012 8:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

well i got it wired and tried it out. most of it is working. 1 vco and half of the dusg is not working. waah this particular dusg has given me hell. half has always worked and the other half hasn't.

I think ill trouble shoot it tomorrow, its gonna be a total nightmare though as its so tightly packed with wires.

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PostPosted: Sun Feb 19, 2012 12:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

I'm planning to tackle mine piecemeal, 2 VCOs to start and once they're debugged it'll be on to the DUSG and so on. I finally found time in amongst all of my projects to get some rails cut and drilled, so I'm nearly out of excuses. zombie
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 19, 2012 12:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Yep, I'll be onto my Mini Synth next too. Put it off until the end as I need to match some transistors and diodes (as well as it being the biggest build of the lot). eek!

Cheers
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 19, 2012 1:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

negativspace wrote:
I'm planning to tackle mine piecemeal, 2 VCOs to start and once they're debugged it'll be on to the DUSG and so on. I finally found time in amongst all of my projects to get some rails cut and drilled, so I'm nearly out of excuses. zombie
i should have done it that way, i was feeling ambitious. Ill prob end up having to unwire a bunch to trouble shoot it. Im gonna redo the power wiring as well because I'm getting a lot of bleed though between the modules. I daisy chained them and instead I'm gonna use the cgs power board...
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 19, 2012 7:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Hmm, part of the reason for doing the VCOs first is that I planned to use one power connection for those 2 modules and one for the rest of the panel. You suppose I should isolate them even further than that?

Boards are all fully stuffed, it's just a matter of assembly at this stage. Maybe I should just dive in...

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PostPosted: Sun Feb 19, 2012 10:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

One of my vcos isnt working so i cant really say, but if I plug my working vco to my mixer i can hear the dusg in it and vice versa. same with the ring mod.
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 19, 2012 8:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

so i got the both vcos, the dusg, both vcas, and ring mod working but shit is acting weird.

for one, my output on the vcos seems really low esp when compared to my euro stuff. and the sine to saw output is even lower than the saw or square outs.

theres really weird signal bleed all over the place. like if i have the saw out on vco 2 patched to my speakers and i touch the saw out jack on vcos 1 i can hear vco 1 even when nothing is patched at all.

my ring mod works but the ics are getting really hot.

on the vcas if i wiggle the output jack for either channel the volume increases dramatically.

none of the boards share grounds between one another and today i rewired the power to one of the power bus boards cgs makes. I'm kinda over it for now, as i have no idea where to begin. little frustrated i must say, as everything looks right.

any thoughts are appreciated

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 20, 2012 12:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

soooo, i realized i had made a really dumb mistake. i recently got some new jacks and didn't realize i had wired everything wrong with them. total dumbs hit moment but i swapped everything and everything is working great now except the ring mod. the ring mod won't work, and the ics are still really damn hot. i saw on Kens page that the 0v pad by the unicorn is actually -12 so i wired the ground of another 0v spot. still no go though. still very hot ics. at this point I've probably fried them...

@Negativspace, let me know when you get your ring mod going. id love to compare a few things with you...

the vcos are awesome though!!!!

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 20, 2012 12:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Awesome, I'm glad you found the issue! I love it when it turns out to be a total dumbshit thing - usually means it's correspondingly easy to fix. hihi

I'll get the thing started soon, I just finished up the last of the MSU panels I've been commissioned to build. Might be a little while before I get to the ringmod, though, I've planned that one for last.

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 20, 2012 2:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

great news Rico, I know those sorts of mistakes are always very d'oh!
but when they solve most problems in one fell swoop it's w00t

one day I'll have time to start my MSU..

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 20, 2012 1:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

I noticed reading Ken's docs about that the Serge VCF has a LED available. I'm wondering assuming I can drill the hole through Clarke's awesome panel without screwing it up how hard is to implement a big ass Pittsburgh VILFO sized LED on there. I love me some blinking lights. I'd love to implement more LEDs but my knowledge is pretty limited.
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