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Watch out! I just nuked 1-post user "gear101" after receiving five different complaints over the course of about 20mins that he's sending PMs to people offering to sell gear. Seems pretty fishy! I'm sure he'll be back under a different name but with the same old game. Be careful! Thanks to everyone who let me know about this guy.



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[Orders Closed] - Euro Panels for Thomas White LPGs
 
 
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Author [Orders Closed] - Euro Panels for Thomas White LPGs
clarke68
Making DIY modulars look cool since 2011


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 05, 2012 7:34 pm    Post subject: [Orders Closed] - Euro Panels for Thomas White LPGs Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

This run is sold out. Now checking interest for a 2nd run - click here

I've got two Euro panels available for the Thomas White Resonant LPG PCBs:

Dual LPG

12HP, this requires 2 Thomas White LPG PCBs

The Dual panels are $20USD each.
Technically, we need 15 orders to get this price. Based on the interest in the other thread I think we're already there, so I'll start taking orders for the Dual right away (see below for order info).


Quad LPG

24HP, this requires 4 Thomas White LPG PCBs

This is an interest check...Quad panels will be $35USD each.
We need 10 orders to get this price. Since most people seem to be interested in the Dual, I'm not sure this one will make it, so I'm considering this an "interest check" for now. If you want one, leave a post in this thread...I'll start taking orders for it if/when we have enough takers.


Shipping Info
USPS shipping rates are going up, and the new prices will be in effect when these ship out. Shipping rates are per order, it doesn't matter how many panels you get:

U.S. - $5.35
Canada/Mexico - $12.95
All other countries - $16.95

These rates are for USPS Priority, which does not include tracking on international shipments. I've had two cases (that I am aware of) where international customers have not received their panels, and the lack of tracking has been frustrating. If you would like registered mail, tracking, or insurance let me know when you place your order and I'll get back to you with a price.


Order Info
To order send the following to me either by PM or email at clarke at muffwiggler dot com:


Quote:
I'm ordering [x] pieces of the Thomas White Dual LPG panel for $xx, plus shipping, for a total of $xx.

I'm aware that I may have to pay additional amounts of customs and tax in my country.

I'm also aware that I'm only buying screened and drilled panel that may help me building an electronic module - I'm *not* buying a diy kit, not a "project" - just a screened/drilled panel. I know how to build electronic circuits and I am trained in electrical safety matters. The seller of these panels will not be held responsible for any damage that results from these panels, directly or indirectly.

My shipping address is

xxxxxx
xxxxx
xxxx
xxx

My PayPal address is [email protected]
My Forumname is xxxxxx


Also let me know if you'd like to add any CGS Panels to your order, or if you want to combine shipping with an order you've already placed.

When I get your order, I will reply with a Paypal invoice, due February 3, 2012. I'm shooting to place the manufacturing order on January 20, which will have me shipping these out to you around the middle of February.

Thanks, I'm looking forward to seeing your builds!


Last edited by clarke68 on Fri Jun 06, 2014 5:25 pm; edited 4 times in total
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clarke68
Making DIY modulars look cool since 2011


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 05, 2012 7:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Order List

50quidsoundboy - 1 dual
astroschnautzer - 1 dual (1 Quad VCA)
bensaddiction - 1 dual (1 Resonant EQ)
bkbirge - 1 dual
brother303 - 1 dual (1 tabulaRasa, 1 ResEQ)
Buckyball - 1 dual
cleaninglady - 4 duals
corex - 1 dual
Dego - 2 duals (1 tabulaRasa, 2 West Coast Mini Synth)
FingerTappin - 1 dual
frozencore - 1 dual (1 tabulaRasa)
gwaidan - 1 dual (2 tabulaRasa, 1 Mutant)
hellpony - 1 dual
hpsounds - 2 duals
hv0190 - 2 duals
J3RK - 1 dual
jbaken - 1 dual
JP - 1 dual (1 tabulaRasa)
Junk Rhythm - 2 duals
keninverse - 2 duals (1 tabulaRasa)
kollo - 2 duals (1 MSU)
koobraelc - 2 duals (1 MSU, 1 Quadslope, 1 West Coast Mini Synth)
lazerkind - 1 dual (1 Mutant)
lukas412 - 1 dual
mantiwhore - 1 dual (1 MSU, 1 West Coast Mini Synth)
modelo - 1 dual
mono-poly - 3 duals (2 tabulaRasa)
msprigings - 1 dual (1 ResEQ, 1 MSU)
nangu - 7 duals (7 tabulaRasa, 5 ResEQ)
obviousless - 2 duals
ringstone - 2 duals
regenbot - 2 duals (1 tabulaRasa, 1 Quad Slope)
richard - 1 dual (2 ResEQ, 1 Quad VCA, 1 Quad Slope)
rico loverde - 1 dual
samuraipizzacat29 - 2 duals
simfonik - 1 dual (1 tabulaRasa)
Spandex - 2 duals (1 MSU, 1 Quadslope)
tony d - 1 dual
zdarma - 1 dual
zeroseven - 2 duals

I have received payment from people in blue.
I have shipped orders to people in green.


Last edited by clarke68 on Sat Mar 24, 2012 4:23 pm; edited 65 times in total
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ringstone
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 05, 2012 7:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

I'm in for two duals, thanks. My CLee panels turned up yesterday BTW, cheers mate!

Blair

EDIT: I will have a think about whether I can use any more CGS panels. Also, do you have any other panels planned for other projects?

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negativspace
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 05, 2012 8:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

ringstone wrote:
I'm in for two duals, thanks.


+1

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brother303
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 05, 2012 8:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Hi,

ringstone wrote:
Also, do you have any other panels planned for other projects?


Tabula Rasa would be great if it happens.

Any interest in a 291-bpf panel? Maybe dual? Any other Wiggler than me interested in this?

Cheers
Greg

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lukas412
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 05, 2012 8:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Dammit your killing me man! Ill take a dual.

thanks!
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keninverse
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 05, 2012 8:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

I'm in for two duals at that price. If it ends up costing more then I may hop on the quad bandwagon. Also like to add these are some really slick looking panels.
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clarke68
Making DIY modulars look cool since 2011


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 05, 2012 8:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

brother303 wrote:
Tabula Rasa would be great if it happens.

tabulaRasa will definitely happen, the latest version is here. I'm shooting to have that ready around the same time Greg has PCBs available. I'd love to do a 291 panel, but I'm a little backed up at the moment (plus I missed the run very frustrating )...someday I hope!

lukas412 wrote:
Dammit your killing me man!

My pleasure! twisted
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tony d
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 05, 2012 8:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

So glad i just saw this.Pm sent and thank you very much!
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negativspace
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 05, 2012 8:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Don't forget about the Resonant EQ. cool
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clarke68
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 05, 2012 8:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

ringstone wrote:
do you have any other panels planned for other projects?

Yup. Right now I'm actively working on panels for the tabulaRasa Wavetable Oscillator (mentioned above) and the Mutant Waveform Generator. Pretty soon I'll get going again on the Serge Resonant EQ panel that I'm doing with Negativspace, and I'd quite like to do some panels for the late Jurgen Haible's PCBs to generate some funds for his family.

edit @ negativspace - jinx!
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mono-poly
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 05, 2012 9:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

2 duals please.
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negativspace
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 05, 2012 9:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

clarke68 wrote:
edit @ negativspace - jinx!


Creepy... zombie

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simfonik
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 05, 2012 11:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

email sent for 1 dual.
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urbanscallywag
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 06, 2012 1:03 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

I'm interested in two duals. Are the Offset and Resonance pot drills lined up with the pads on the boards? Just want to confirm that this is how the boards are mounted to the panel.

Thanks!

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clarke68
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 06, 2012 1:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

urbanscallywag wrote:
Are the Offset and Resonance pot drills lined up with the pads on the boards? Just want to confirm that this is how the boards are mounted to the panel.

Yup...the panel is designed to use board-mounted pots. This is my one-off version (same as the Quad), the dual is identical to the middle 2 channels:



Note: I measured the above module today...the board extends 3.875 inches behind the panel. That's pretty deep for most Euro racks...make sure it fits before you order!


Last edited by clarke68 on Sun Jan 08, 2012 1:34 am; edited 1 time in total
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regenbot
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 06, 2012 1:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

two duals for me. pm'd for details about my order.
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hv0190
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 06, 2012 2:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

+2 duals for me, please - pm on the way hihi
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clarke68
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 06, 2012 2:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

oops
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Junk Rhythm
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 06, 2012 3:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

I'll take 2 dual panels.
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Monobass
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 06, 2012 8:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

brother303 wrote:
Any interest in a 291-bpf panel? Maybe dual? Any other Wiggler than me interested in this?


yep I'd be up for a 291 dual

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urbanscallywag
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 06, 2012 10:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Thanks clark, I'll send my 2x dual panel order later.
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Spandex
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 07, 2012 8:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

I guess 2xDual makes more sense than 1xQuad yeah. I'm in for 2 duals please.
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koobraelc
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 08, 2012 2:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Thanks Clarke!!!
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clorax hurd
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 08, 2012 5:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

i'm interested in one quad. are they going to happen?
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clarke68
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 08, 2012 12:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

clorax hurd wrote:
i'm interested in one quad. are they going to happen?

Right now you're the first who has expressed interest, and I need 10 to make the run. But there's still time...tell a friend!
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nangu
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 12, 2012 9:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

I'd be up for two quads. Not sure how many duals yet- I may not figure that out until the PCB order deadline on the 15th.
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lazerkind
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 12, 2012 9:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

I'm tempted to get a dual, but wonder If I could leave my order hanging until the Mutant timbre osc panel is finished to share the shipping cost?

And, a dual 291 panel would be awesome SlayerBadger!
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clarke68
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 12, 2012 2:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

lazerkind wrote:
I'm tempted to get a dual, but wonder If I could leave my order hanging until the Mutant timbre osc panel is finished to share the shipping cost?

Timing on the Mutant Osc is somewhat dependent on beautyofdecay...I don't want to start taking orders on the panel until we're sure we have a PCB. I've got a few things I want to try on the design, but it's close. If you place an order for the LPG (any time in the next 2-3 weeks is fine) I can hold it for you until the Mutant is done.


lazerkind wrote:
a dual 291 panel would be awesome SlayerBadger!

I agree!
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lazerkind
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 13, 2012 4:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

clarke68 wrote:

Timing on the Mutant Osc is somewhat dependent on beautyofdecay...I don't want to start taking orders on the panel until we're sure we have a PCB. I've got a few things I want to try on the design, but it's close. If you place an order for the LPG (any time in the next 2-3 weeks is fine) I can hold it for you until the Mutant is done.


That sounds fine by me.
Waiting a while is no problem I have a huge backlog to neglect already hihi
Somehow it grew exponentially the last months, too much great stuff coming out...
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hpsounds
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 13, 2012 10:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

I'm ON for a single dual panel ! hyper

Hédi K.

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hpsounds
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 14, 2012 2:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Ordered and paid for 2 dual panels ! hyper

Hédi K.

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FingerTappin
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 17, 2012 11:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

PMed for 1x panel

Thanks and really nice work on the panel!
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clarke68
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 18, 2012 11:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Now that Thomas White has closed his PCB orders, I want to send the panel order off to the manufacturer. I still don't need payment until February 10 (but a huge thanks to those who have already paid!) but I want to make sure everyone gets one who wants one, so please send me your orders this week if you're interested.

We didn't get enough interest this time in the quad for it to make the run. If you were holding out for the quad, I'd highly recommend two duals. cool

Thanks!
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lazerkind
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 18, 2012 4:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

ok, order email sent, these are too good to resist w00t
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clarke68
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 24, 2012 4:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Okay, the order has been placed with the manufacturer! I should get them in about three weeks, at which time I'll start getting them out to all of you.

In the mean time, orders are not closed...if you still want a panel you can get one, just follow the order instructions in the first post. Payment is still due February 10, although most people have already paid so...thanks!

It's peanut butter jelly time!
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tony d
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 24, 2012 5:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Thanks again Clarke!!
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clarke68
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 30, 2012 2:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

On Friday I got the art proof back from the manufacturer:



Looks good to me, so I'm approving this and getting them going. Seems like this came back pretty fast, so they're at least on schedule if not a little bit ahead. Things are looking good for shipping these out mid-February.

Thanks everybody!
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JP
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 30, 2012 3:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

1 x Dual LPG
1 x Tabul

Please. smile

I'll fill out the info and send you whatever is needed this evening/
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50quidsoundboy
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 09, 2012 10:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

1 x Dual LPG please - email sent!
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Buckyball
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 09, 2012 5:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

clarke68 wrote:
Yup...the panel is designed to use board-mounted pots. This is my one-off version (same as the Quad), the dual is identical to the middle 2 channels:



Note: I measured the above module today...the board extends 3.875 inches behind the panel. That's pretty deep for most Euro racks...make sure it fits before you order!


Clarke,

Which pots and jacks did you use? I want to make sure the ones I order are a good fit for the panel. I've put together a Mouser order for everything except pots, jacks, and vactrols, and I'm hoping I can get all those things from Smallbear. Thanks!

--
Buck
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clarke68
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 09, 2012 5:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Buckyball wrote:
Which pots and jacks did you use?

Pots - Alpha 16mm Potentiometer. PC Mount for the Offset & Resonance, doesn't matter for the CV attenuator (solder lug would be a bit easier):
SmallBear - 1010A
Even cheaper at Tayda

Jacks - Kobiconn 3.5mm Phone Connectors
Mouser - 16PJ138
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Buckyball
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 09, 2012 6:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Thanks! Would this jack at Smallbear work, too?

Smallbear 0632E
--
Buck
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clarke68
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 09, 2012 7:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

I'm not sure, but I would guess not. The input jacks on this are really close together...I can measure it when I get home. If you buy them and they don't fit you'll surely use them eventually in another project...those look like nice jacks.
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cleaninglady
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 09, 2012 8:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Hi Clarke / All

I'm trying to get my head around a BOM for this project in Euro that relates specifically to builds Clarke's Faceplate ; as is.

This is a .xls of what Thomas had suggest in his Rev. 3.2 .pdf of the board.

PLEASE NOTE !! This .xls is based on building 4 x PCB's for two separate Dual LPG units ; please divide component counts to suit your own project.

Vactrols used in this BOM are the VTL5C3/2 Dual Vactrol. It's really your choice on how you go with these.

Could you give these the once over Clarke ?

Maybe it's time for a build thread for this Euro Version... hmmm.....

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clarke68
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 10, 2012 12:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

cleaninglady wrote:
Could you give these the once over Clarke ?

It's been a while since I built mine, so I'll just cover the things that pertain to the panel, and anything else that stands out. You don't have to buy these parts at these places, but you can use the names to search for them anywhere you want.

The part, "What is this called?" is a Shrouded Header 10 Position 2.54mm

Use these to make a power cable: 16-pin (power end), 10-pin (PCB end)

My panel doesn't support the Deep Switch mod, so you don't need that switch.

My panel does support the Resonance mod, so definitely get the resistor & pot for that. When I built mine, I used the part substitutions that Dave Brown talks about in his build notes. They're not working for me, it's something I'm looking forward to changing when I "move in" to the new panels.

The 3PDT Mode switch is not optional, it's how you select between pure VCA, filter, and "both" modes. The resonance only works when the switch is in filter mode, which is indicated by the graphics on the panel. As long as you use a 3PDT, you'll have "both" mode even though it's not indicated on the panel. The panel is designed to fit the switch that Thomas White recommends in his BOM. It's tight but it fits, and it's a quality switch.

You don't need Ebay to find 3.9V zener diodes, the have them a lot of places, including Tayda.

Allied has a little better price on Dual Vactrols than Bridechamber.

14-pin IC sockets are available just about anywhere.

Hope that helps!
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 10, 2012 12:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

That is a huge help Clarke , cheers ! SlayerBadger!

BOM updated.

Really looking forward to this build.

hyper

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PostPosted: Fri Feb 10, 2012 1:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

I think this is good ribbon cable for the power cable. Is it easier to just solder individual wires to those headers to make the power cables?

Jameco 363813

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clarke68
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 10, 2012 2:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Buckyball wrote:
I think this is good ribbon cable for the power cable.

I use this stuff:

Jameco 643831


Buckyball wrote:
Is it easier to just solder individual wires to those headers to make the power cables?

The 10- and 16-pin IDT cable mounts I link to above are way easier than soldering...you clamp them over the ribbon cable and you're done.
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msprigings
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 10, 2012 8:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Where is the audio attenuator wired to?
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 10, 2012 9:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

msprigings wrote:
Where is the audio attenuator wired to?

It's actually meant to be a CV attenuator...you wire it between the CV input jack and the CV & Ground pads on the PCB, like this:



(I hope Fonik doesn't mind my linking to his diagram)

There is also a way to make it in to an attenuverter, I'm going to ask Negativspace to post instructions on how to do it.
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 11, 2012 7:43 pm    Post subject: Substitute for 3.9V 500mW Zeners - Res LPG Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Does anyone know how critical the wattage is in this case.

Tayda only carries the 3.9V 1W Zeners. seriously, i just don't get it

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PostPosted: Sat Feb 11, 2012 9:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

updated that BOM.
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 12, 2012 1:33 am    Post subject: Re: Substitute for 3.9V 500mW Zeners - Res LPG Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

cleaninglady wrote:
Does anyone know how critical the wattage is in this case.

Tayda only carries the 3.9V 1W Zeners. seriously, i just don't get it

1W Zeners are fine. That's actually what Thomas White links to in his BOM, I don't know why he has them labeled as 0.5W in the spreadsheet.

Generally speaking, going with a higher rated component is fine electrically...going lower may cause problems. The only thing you'll want to check with a higher rated component is that sometimes they're larger and may be a tight fit on the board.
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 12, 2012 2:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

clarke68 wrote:
When I built mine, I used the part substitutions that Dave Brown talks about in his build notes. They're not working for me, it's something I'm looking forward to changing when I "move in" to the new panels.


FWIW the substitutions to accommodate 100k pots in Dave Brown's build would not have been for quality reasons but because MOTM'ers have a limited selection of affordable values available in those cwazy cermet/plastic pots they love so much. Anyone using Alphas might as well stick to the values in Thomas's schematic.

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Any news on this yet? I just sold all my other modules of this type so I could replace it with this different implementation of the same thing!
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 12, 2012 12:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

clarke68 wrote:

There is also a way to make it in to an attenuverter, I'm going to ask Negativspace to post instructions on how to do it.


This would be awesome if I need need to change anything before I send my order off to mouser.

Anyone else found anything useful and well priced at Allie other than the vactrols? I hate to pay shipping on a couple vactrols.
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 12, 2012 12:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

I took the instructions for wiring up the attenuverter from Dave Brown's website (which is excellent, and now that I scroll up a bit I see you've also already linked to.)
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 12, 2012 1:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

apparently I can't read hihi
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 12, 2012 1:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Oh, and check Small Bear for vactrols. Last time I went looking they had Allied beat on price, and you can always pick up pots/knobs or something to pad the order.
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 12, 2012 4:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Good call on the smallbear.

single
http://www.smallbearelec.com/Detail.bok?no=347

dual
http://www.smallbearelec.com/Detail.bok?no=349

Anyone have an preference with the 2 singles vs 1 dual? The dual comes out to be cheaper but I assume the sound could be slightly altered.
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 12, 2012 4:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

i'm going to be attempting the Dual LPG when all the bits arrive - my first DIY module. i understand most of the build, including how to use the audio summing stage to get the mix out, and how to hook up the CV attenuators, but the thing giving me the most anxiety so far is hooking up the power! i'm assuming that i can connect the two boards in parallel if i don't want to use two separate ribbon cables? i.e. +15v PCB1 wired to +15v PCB2, and -15v PCB1 wired to -15v PCB2, then provide power to PCB1?

is there anything i need to look out for when building the ribbon cables etc? as you can probably tell, i've got some rudimentary electronics knowledge, but not a great deal!
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clarke68
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 13, 2012 10:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

50quidsoundboy wrote:
i'm assuming that i can connect the two boards in parallel if i don't want to use two separate ribbon cables? i.e. +15v PCB1 wired to +15v PCB2, and -15v PCB1 wired to -15v PCB2, then provide power to PCB1?!

That's right...just add GND to GND to that and you'll be fine.


50quidsoundboy wrote:
is there anything i need to look out for when building the ribbon cables etc?

Not really...just make sure you follow the Eurorack standard of having the red (colored) wire of your ribbon cable along the negative/bottom edge. Of course, it will still work if you don't, but it will be confusing...and hooking up Eurorack power is confusing enough as it is.
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 13, 2012 10:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

thanks clarke68!
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 14, 2012 9:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Can't beieve I missed this thread completely d'oh!

If anybody who ordered a dual panel (or 2) changes their mind and decides not to build, PM me. I'll definitely buy it / them from you.

Thanks

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 14, 2012 9:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

zeroseven wrote:
Can't beieve I missed this thread completely d'oh!

If anybody who ordered a dual panel (or 2) changes their mind and decides not to build, PM me. I'll definitely buy it / them from you.

Not to worry! You can still order one (or two!). These should be shipping to me any day now...order instructions are in the first post, if you want one just send me a PM with your Paypal email address. thumbs up
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 14, 2012 9:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

clarke68 wrote:
zeroseven wrote:
Can't beieve I missed this thread completely d'oh!

If anybody who ordered a dual panel (or 2) changes their mind and decides not to build, PM me. I'll definitely buy it / them from you.

Not to worry! You can still order one (or two!). These should be shipping to me any day now...order instructions are in the first post, if you want one just send me a PM with your Paypal email address. thumbs up


Thanks Clarke68, PM sent applause

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PostPosted: Wed Feb 15, 2012 1:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

I got a P.O. from the manufacturer today...that means that the panels have shipped, and are on their way to me now! Not sure if they'll get here by the weekend or not, but either way I'll be able to start shipping these out next week.

Won't be long now! thumbs up
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 15, 2012 5:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

SlayerBadger! SlayerBadger! SlayerBadger! SlayerBadger! SlayerBadger! SlayerBadger! SlayerBadger! w00t w00t w00t w00t It's motherfucking bacon yo It's motherfucking bacon yo
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 16, 2012 8:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Quote:
i'm assuming that i can connect the two boards in parallel if i don't want to use two separate ribbon cables? i.e. +15v PCB1 wired to +15v PCB2, and -15v PCB1 wired to -15v PCB2, then provide power to PCB1?!


does it solder on the MTA-156 or euro pin?
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 16, 2012 1:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

koobraelc wrote:
Quote:
i'm assuming that i can connect the two boards in parallel if i don't want to use two separate ribbon cables? i.e. +15v PCB1 wired to +15v PCB2, and -15v PCB1 wired to -15v PCB2, then provide power to PCB1?!


does it solder on the MTA-156 or euro pin?

You could use any of the power connections...they're all connected. For us, it's going to be easiest to use a Euro header to connect the module to the power distro, then either the MTA-156 or MTA-100 pads to connect the two PCBs together.
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 16, 2012 3:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

My vactrols arrived today! All I have left to do on one of the PCBs is to wire the switch, CV pot, and jacks in. I printed out a paper Dual LPG front panel to use while I wait for the real one to arrive. That switch is going to be a pain.

Fingers crossed that I connected the dual vactrol correctly.

A note to anyone ordering the Kobiconn 1/8" jacks from Mouser: don't forget to order the mounting nuts. The mode switch came with mounting nut and washers attached, but the Kobiconn jacks did not.
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 16, 2012 4:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

You have a mouser part number for the mounting nuts?

Just to clarify these:
http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=16PJ138virtualkey111 80000virtualkey16PJ138

don't come with the knurled nut?

Also since Clarke's panel didn't include the DEEP switch was there anything special you had to do to not have that included?
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 16, 2012 4:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

They do include the knurled cylindrical nut, but not the attractive hex mounting nuts that seem to be the standard mounting scheme.

As i understand it there's nothing special you need to do to skip the deep switch. You just leave a 47k resistor spot empty and don't connect anything to the pads labeled "D-switch". I'll let to know if my build works.
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 17, 2012 12:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

It's working. Be careful wiring up the mode switch. I assumed the diagram in the schematic was showing a rear view of the switch with S1 in the top-left corner, but the whole thing is actually upside-down. Thomas White's wiring diagram assumes you want the up position to be "Filter" and the down position to be "Amp", which is the opposite of Clarke68's panel design. So right now my switch, which I wired in with very little wiggle room for the wires, works backwards. If you're looking at the rear of the switch as it will be mounted on your euro panel, S1 should be the bottom-right soldering post.
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 17, 2012 1:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Buckyball wrote:
They do include the knurled cylindrical nut, but not the attractive hex mounting nuts that seem to be the standard mounting scheme.

The knurled nuts that come with the Kobiconn jacks are fine...I use them for all my builds (despite how my mockups look). You just have to be extra careful tightening them...since a socket wrench doesn't work on the round nuts I often use a pair of pliers, and it's very easy to scratch the panel. Here is an entire thread about how to not scratch you panel with pliers.
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msprigings
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 17, 2012 1:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

I went ahead and bought a the knurled nut driver. I'd hate to scratch that sexy panel.
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 17, 2012 1:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

msprigings wrote:
I went ahead and bought a the knurled nut driver. I'd hate to scratch that sexy panel.

Can you send a link? I'd be interested in such a thing.
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 17, 2012 2:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

I found this quite a few other posts about the knurled nuts.

http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=382-0006virtualkey56 100000virtualkey382-0006

My order hasn't arrived yet to verify


this was the post
http://www.muffwiggler.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=46517&highlight=knurl ed+nut
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 17, 2012 3:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

I think that's the one I have. It does the job but it can be a bit of a bitch. The part that fits into the knurled nuts' slot is a little too big so you tend to slip often. It does work though.
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 20, 2012 11:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

The panels have arrived!

Everything fits just like I expected:




Note these images show the older version of the PCB, not the one that you are all likely getting with a proper Euro connector.

I'll start shipping these out tomorrow, since today is (I assume) a postal holiday. Note that if you've opted to combine shipping with another panel I don't have in yet (like the Serge Resonant EQ or L-1 Quad VCA), then your panel won't ship in this round.
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 20, 2012 1:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

They look great very excited to grab mine once the ResEQ panels come.
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 22, 2012 10:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Hi Clarke

Got the PCB's for the project today ! w00t

Wanted to ask : in the Euro build using your faceplates and REV. 3.2 PCB's ;
do i leave out the bottom three 100K Resistors (for Audio In and CV In) each side of the TL074 ? hmmm.....

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PostPosted: Wed Feb 22, 2012 11:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

frozenkore wrote:
I think that's the one I have. It does the job but it can be a bit of a bitch. The part that fits into the knurled nuts' slot is a little too big so you tend to slip often. It does work though.

It is too big. I ended up filing the slot part down very carefully.
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 23, 2012 12:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

cleaninglady wrote:
do i leave out the bottom three 100K Resistors (for Audio In and CV In) each side of the TL074 ? hmmm.....

Good question.

The best, but somewhat incomplete, answer I can give you is that you only need to install the 100k resistors that you're planning on using. What I mean is this: the TL074 is a quad op-amp, but the LPG itself only uses (I think) one of the channels. Rather than waste the remaining channels, Thomas put them to work as mixers...that's how the three audio inputs and three CV inputs work. By themselves, these mixer channels aren't even connected to the LPG circuit...builders who decide to use them have to connect them in the "Sum Jumpers" section.

I can't remember exactly how I figured out which resistors to leave off...I think I just looked at the traces on the PCB.

For my panel, it makes a lot of sense to use the extra mixers to for the "Mix Out", instead of CGS04. I haven't actually tried this, but I'm pretty sure it will work:



Apparently there is a way to use the extra mixers to turn the CV attenuators into attenuverters. I don't know how to do it, I'm hoping someone will chime in here and explain because it would be incredibly cool. I've heard that it uses all of the extra mixer channels, so then you're back to using CGS04 for the Mix Out.


Last edited by clarke68 on Tue Feb 28, 2012 2:07 am; edited 1 time in total
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 23, 2012 8:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

keninverse wrote:
It is too big. I ended up filing the slot part down very carefully.


Not sure why I never considered doing that. I'll have to try that.

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 23, 2012 10:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

do you still have the dual faceplates? I would be in for two!
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 23, 2012 10:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

active wrote:
do you still have the dual faceplates? I would be in for two!

Yup...a lot of what I have are sold, but I've got a few left. Send me a PM with your Paypal email address and your shipping address to place an order.
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 24, 2012 1:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Okay, all the panels that are shipping out in this batch have been dispatched. Take a look at the 2nd post...if your name is green, your panel is on it's way!

If your name is not green, that probably means that you have opted to combine shipping with either the ResEQ or L-1 Quad VCA panels (or both), and your panels will ship around the middle of March. Send me a PM if you'd rather pay more shipping and get your LPG panel right away, or if you think there has been a mistake (it has been known to happen).
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cleaninglady
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 24, 2012 1:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

frozenkore wrote:
keninverse wrote:
It is too big. I ended up filing the slot part down very carefully.


Not sure why I never considered doing that. I'll have to try that.


I have faced this problem many times building the best of CGS Modules. Dead Banana

I snip with a sturdy side cutter first , then again with the snips if i can ; then i file down with a flat file.

Be sure to clean filings as you go with an old toothbrush or similar.

You don't want to have that stuff in your pot later on down the track. thumbs up

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PostPosted: Fri Feb 24, 2012 1:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

clarke68 wrote:
Okay, all the panels that are shipping out in this batch have been dispatched. Take a look at the 2nd post...if your name is green, your panel is on it's way!

If your name is not green, that probably means that you have opted to combine shipping with either the ResEQ or L-1 Quad VCA panels (or both), and your panels will ship around the middle of March. Send me a PM if you'd rather pay more shipping and get your LPG panel right away, or if you think there has been a mistake (it has been known to happen).


I am so freakin' happy to hear that !! cheers for everything Clarke !SlayerBadger! SlayerBadger! SlayerBadger!

I have the boards 90% stuffed ; just waiting on diodes and Euro Power connectors/cable to arrive. It's peanut butter jelly time! It's peanut butter jelly time! It's peanut butter jelly time!

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50quidsoundboy
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 24, 2012 5:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

got my PCBs....got all my components...this is my first serious build and i'm slightly shitting myself....
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Spandex
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 24, 2012 5:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Don't worry dude. You'll nail it. And loadsa peeps here are helpful and are basically wizards or something.
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50quidsoundboy
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 25, 2012 3:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

finished one PCB, nearly finished the other. just tested the first one and (a) it works and (b) it sounds awesome! loads more ringing from the vactrols than i can get from my Borg 1.

i can't believe this works...it's my first build and i'm an idiot...and it works Rockin' Banana! Rockin' Banana! Rockin' Banana!

can't wait for my faceplate to arrive and get this badboy racked...
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 25, 2012 4:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Just got mine.
It looks great,thanks so much Clarke!

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cleaninglady
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 25, 2012 4:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

50quidsoundboy wrote:
finished one PCB, nearly finished the other. just tested the first one and (a) it works and (b) it sounds awesome! loads more ringing from the vactrols than i can get from my Borg 1.

i can't believe this works...it's my first build and i'm an idiot...and it works Rockin' Banana! Rockin' Banana! Rockin' Banana!

can't wait for my faceplate to arrive and get this badboy racked...


congrats ! good feeling , innit ? It's peanut butter jelly time!

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PostPosted: Sat Feb 25, 2012 5:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

cleaninglady wrote:

congrats ! good feeling , innit ? It's peanut butter jelly time!


yep! patched it into my mixer, realised that high-pitched whining sound was the filter self-oscillating...unbelievable SlayerBadger!
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 25, 2012 5:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Wikkid. Be tapping u up for tips then smile
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msprigings
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 25, 2012 5:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Got my panel today (and MSU). Thanks Clarke!
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 25, 2012 8:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

What's the best US source for component kits for these, just realized I have everything except them.
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 26, 2012 2:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

It's a perfect fit, Clarke. Thanks for the beautiful panel!

For anyone who is agonizing over which pots to order: those tabs on the 16mm Alpha pots are very easy to snip off.

JP, I don't know if I understand your question about "component kits". I would assume that a "component kit" would mean a kit with all the resistors, capacitors, vactrols, op-amps, knobs, jacks, and wires. But if that's what you mean, then I don't understand the second part of your sentence ("I have everything except them").

In any case, I got all my parts from Smallbear (vactrols, pots, knobs), Jameco (power cable parts), and Mouser (everything else).
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 26, 2012 4:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

just finished the second PCB and connected the two boards together (power + mix). no problems or tricky spots at all, although if you're a novice like me i'd recommend paying close attention to how you wire up the mixer section - even though i had it clear in my head, i somehow ended up tapping one of the channels from the wrong place (it took about 5 minutes to rectify my mistake, no big deal).

i used the slower VTL5C4 for the second PCB - the resonance seems to scream a lot more, reminds me of my Korg MS10.
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 26, 2012 6:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Is the mix out noticeably hotter than the single LPG outs?
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50quidsoundboy
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 26, 2012 6:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

msprigings wrote:
Is the mix out noticeably hotter than the single LPG outs?


didn't notice that, no, although i wasn't really paying attention.
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 26, 2012 9:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

msprigings wrote:
Is the mix out noticeably hotter than the single LPG outs?


It is on mine.
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 27, 2012 11:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Buckyball wrote:

JP, I don't know if I understand your question about "component kits". I would assume that a "component kit" would mean a kit with all the resistors, capacitors, vactrols, op-amps, knobs, jacks, and wires. But if that's what you mean, then I don't understand the second part of your sentence ("I have everything except them").


I have everything PCB, faceplate and knobs smile

I'm just missing the engine.

I picked up the PCB a long time ago, was hoping someone just had a precompiled component kit. I'll do some digging. Maybe bridechamber does.
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 27, 2012 2:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

JP wrote:

I have everything PCB, faceplate and knobs smile

I'm just missing the engine.

I picked up the PCB a long time ago, was hoping someone just had a precompiled component kit. I'll do some digging. Maybe bridechamber does.


Page 3 of this thread has a BOM spreadsheet on it, along with useful links and plenty of other discussion of where to get the parts. I don't think anyone's offering a kit.

I have attached a spreadsheet with the Mouser and Smallbear BOMs I used when placing my orders. Note that these are for a single PCB. You'll need to order twice the quantity of each item plus one extra 35mm jack for the "Mix" output if you're building one of Clarke68's dual panels. You also don't need the TL074 and some of the resistors for the audio/CV mixing section on one of the boards if you don't want them. (I am using the audio mixer section on one of the PCBs as my mix out. I left the TL074 socket and surrounding resistor spots empty on my second PCB.)

I had tools, solder, and wire already. I ordered power cable parts from Jameco according to Clarke68's suggestions. Smallbear has plenty of knobs available, too (although they seem to be out of stock on black Davies clones).


Last edited by Buckyball on Mon Feb 27, 2012 2:53 pm; edited 2 times in total
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 27, 2012 2:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Thanks bucky, I'll be placing an order tonight. Appreciate the pointers.
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 27, 2012 2:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

I was reading back through the thread and noticed a small mistake in this diagram:

clarke68 wrote:

For my panel, it makes a lot of sense to use the extra mixers to for the "Mix Out", instead of CGS04. I haven't actually tried this, but I'm pretty sure it will work:




The "Mix Out" jack should be wired to the solder pad labeled "SM1" in the jumper section. The "In" and "DI" pads should be jumpered to each other. You can also wire the "Mix Out" jack to the solder pad on the far left labelled "Audio Mixer Out" -- it's connected to the same trace as "SM1", and easier to access if you have already wired in the mode switch.
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 27, 2012 3:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Buckyball wrote:
The "Mix Out" jack should be wired to the solder pad labeled "SM1" in the jumper section. The "In" and "DI" pads should be jumpered to each other.

Thanks for the catch! I'll update the diagram when I get home tonight.
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 27, 2012 3:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Completely off topic but whenever I see "Last Post by clarke68" my bank account trembles... Looks like it escaped unscathed, this time...
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 27, 2012 3:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

frozenkore wrote:
Completely off topic but whenever I see "Last Post by clarke68" my bank account trembles... Looks like it escaped unscathed, this time...

LOL

Not to worry! My posts will have no financial implications for at least another week. thumbs up
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 27, 2012 4:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

clarke68 wrote:
Not to worry! My posts will have no financial implications for at least another week. thumbs up


Sweet, recoup time, then Never maintain cash savings again, rinse and repeat!

It's motherfucking bacon yo

Always looking forward to your panels grin.

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 28, 2012 2:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Okay, I updated the diagram in the post above. Here it is again:

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50quidsoundboy
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 01, 2012 7:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

anyone in Europe got their panels yet? hyper
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 01, 2012 10:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

So I realized and this could be elsewhere in this thread in Thomas's BOM his pots are Audio taper. I unfortunately bought those on accident. However I have panel mount ones. Anyway to bend/snip etc a panel mount pot to be PC mount. I was thinking I could bend the lugs OR run some wire through the hole and solder to that. The question would be if that's sturdy enough.
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 01, 2012 10:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

msprigings wrote:
I was thinking I could bend the lugs OR run some wire through the hole and solder to that. The question would be if that's sturdy enough.

Probably not, but you can always make brackets. If you look closely at my build, you'll see that I did:



They're made of some metal corner edging material, very inexpensive and easy to cut with shears. They're super thin, and don't provide a ton of support, but it's enough to give you something you can screw the PCBs to.
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 01, 2012 10:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Is the edging something you would get at a hardware store?

I also noticed my pots have a little tab thing that prevents it from sitting flush. Just snip that off?
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 01, 2012 11:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

msprigings wrote:
Is the edging something you would get at a hardware store?
Yup. It's basically this stuff...probably available anywhere. This kind already has holes in it, but it's easy to drill, so don't sweat it if it doesn't have holes or if the spacing is off.


msprigings wrote:
I also noticed my pots have a little tab thing that prevents it from sitting flush. Just snip that off?

You can...I find it's even easier to break them off. Just grab the tab with a pair of pliers and "bend" the pot...clean break every time.
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 01, 2012 11:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

perfect thanks Clarke Guinness ftw!
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 01, 2012 2:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

50quidsoundboy wrote:
anyone in Europe got their panels yet? hyper


Yep. On Tuesday.
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 01, 2012 2:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

clarke68 wrote:
Probably not, but you can always make brackets. If you look closely at my build, you'll see that I did:


Sorry if this is a daft q, but how are the brackets attached to the panel?

Was there a thread about this? Vague déjà vu.

Ooh look, my iPhone did the accents for me.
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50quidsoundboy
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 01, 2012 3:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Spandex wrote:
50quidsoundboy wrote:
anyone in Europe got their panels yet? hyper


Yep. On Tuesday.


cry not me
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 01, 2012 3:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Spandex wrote:
Sorry if this is a daft q, but how are the brackets attached to the panel?

Not daft, as I'm not 100% sure my brackets are even doing anything. They're held to the panel with nuts on the pot shaft. Reason I'm not 100% is that, once everything is all assembled, you can't really tell if the PCB is being held more by the bracket or more by the solder joints on the pots. It feels pretty solid, tho!

@50quidsoundboy - I'll check when I get home when I sent yours...should be arriving this week.
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 01, 2012 7:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

clarke68 wrote:
50quidsoundboy wrote:
i'm assuming that i can connect the two boards in parallel if i don't want to use two separate ribbon cables? i.e. +15v PCB1 wired to +15v PCB2, and -15v PCB1 wired to -15v PCB2, then provide power to PCB1?!

That's right...just add GND to GND to that and you'll be fine.


50quidsoundboy wrote:
is there anything i need to look out for when building the ribbon cables etc?

Not really...just make sure you follow the Eurorack standard of having the red (colored) wire of your ribbon cable along the negative/bottom edge. Of course, it will still work if you don't, but it will be confusing...and hooking up Eurorack power is confusing enough as it is.


Hi Clarke

As i haven't done a Dual euro power connection running off a single connector before ; can i just ask...do i have to connect every GND from one PCB to the other , or just one ?

PS

Got my boards today ! thanks , they look awesome. Starting the final build today. It's peanut butter jelly time!

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 01, 2012 7:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

clarke68 wrote:
Spandex wrote:
Sorry if this is a daft q, but how are the brackets attached to the panel?

Not daft, as I'm not 100% sure my brackets are even doing anything. They're held to the panel with nuts on the pot shaft. Reason I'm not 100% is that, once everything is all assembled, you can't really tell if the PCB is being held more by the bracket or more by the solder joints on the pots. It feels pretty solid, tho!


I buit a DIY quad TWLPG with no brackets, just spacers between the boards, and it feels really secure. Only worry would be if it (hypothetically) got mistreated by baggage handlers and the weight of the boards ripped the legs off the pots...

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 01, 2012 7:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

cleaninglady wrote:
As i haven't done a Dual euro power connection running off a single connector before ; can i just ask...do i have to connect every GND from one PCB to the other , or just one ?

Just one. Glad to hear your panels arrived safely! thumbs up
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 01, 2012 8:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

clarke68 wrote:
cleaninglady wrote:
As i haven't done a Dual euro power connection running off a single connector before ; can i just ask...do i have to connect every GND from one PCB to the other , or just one ?

Just one. Glad to hear your panels arrived safely! thumbs up


I ended up using the unused MTA-100 + , - and GND as they are all connected along board tracks. The GND I used was the one that was not isolated from the rest of the common GND. Hope this sounds OK... hmmm.....

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 01, 2012 8:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

cleaninglady wrote:
I ended up using the unused MTA-100 + , - and GND as they are all connected along board tracks. The GND is used was the one that was not isolated from the rest of the common GND. Hope this sounds OK... hmmm.....

I'll look at mine tonight, but that sounds right to me.
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 01, 2012 9:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

clarke68 wrote:
cleaninglady wrote:
I ended up using the unused MTA-100 + , - and GND as they are all connected along board tracks. The GND is used was the one that was not isolated from the rest of the common GND. Hope this sounds OK... hmmm.....

I'll look at mine tonight, but that sounds right to me.


thanks Clarke , it just seemed a way less messy option.

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 02, 2012 11:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

panel arrived today - job done:



i am SO, SO pleased with this. sounds bloody lovely.

be careful when fitting the PCBs, everything is very close together behind the panel and it's easy to create shorts with the pots etc....
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 02, 2012 11:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

That's awesome. I was hoping to knock mine out the weekend but realized I bought a wrong cap. Need 2 100n's each and I bought 4x 10n d'oh!
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 02, 2012 5:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

So.. I was testing pots and knobs and I found that the knobs stood a bit too far clear of the panel. Only 1-2mm, but it bothered me.

I just tried putting in a plastic washer on the back to shorten the protruding pot shaft a bit.. seems to work fine.



Is this a daft thing to do? Should I just have got different knobs? Different pots? Is there some other obvious way to do this? (yeah i know.. i could just "not worry about that 1mm" cool )
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 02, 2012 6:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

that's proper OCD shit Spandex, nice work
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 02, 2012 6:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Someone on here was complaining recently about the gap he was getting with Davies clones. he was saying it was something to do with some molding inside the hole for the pot shaft?

I don't know...if it bugs you, it bugs you. I think solving the problem with a $0.05 washer is brilliant. Changing to a different knob is bound to be expensive and time-consuming...there aren't many knobs out there that can beat the Davies 1900H (and look-alikes) for space efficiency and classic looks.
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 02, 2012 6:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Anyone know if there any more quad panelz or duals left???
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clarke68
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 02, 2012 6:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

gimlay wrote:
Anyone know if there any more quad panelz or duals left???

The Quads never made it...not enough interest. I do have some Duals left, but I'm holding off selling any more right now until all the current orders are delivered. Send me a PM and I'll contact you when they become available, probably in a few weeks.
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 02, 2012 6:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

50quidsoundboy wrote:
that's proper OCD shit Spandex, nice work


heheh. thanks smile

clarke68 wrote:
Someone on here was complaining recently about the gap he was getting with Davies clones. he was saying it was something to do with some molding inside the hole for the pot shaft?


right.. yeah. now i look closer, i realise it's the thread on the pot doesn't fit in the knob. The pot shaft is fine, and the knob is deep enough.. but it's uniform bore all the way down.. whereas it could do with just having a couple of mm of wider bore at the mouth, to take a wee bit of thread.

I'll stick with the plastic washers then. ta.
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50quidsoundboy
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 03, 2012 6:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

here's a better picture of it all racked up n shit (and inexplicably rotated 90 degrees)

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PostPosted: Sat Mar 03, 2012 8:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

50quidsoundboy wrote:
here's a better picture of it all racked up n shit (and inexplicably rotated 90 degrees)


That's sexy good work! Hopefully have mine going next week.
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 04, 2012 9:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

All done , all working ! Sounds Shweet !! w00t



I'll change the jacks to Cliff jacks in the next week or so , the ones i used are being a bit intertmittent.

Thanks to Clarke for all the build help and the pimpin' panel work. we're not worthy

I'll be building my second one in the next week.

It was good to do one first to iron out the build and get a clear idea on how to proceed.

Some things others might find helpful :

Don't forget to wire the switch before you attach the second board.

It will save you a world of pain. Dead Banana

The 3PDT switch needs to be orientated upside down , as you see it here , to have the Filter and VCA settings switch in relation to the faceplate :



The pad marked Audio Out can be used as the SUM OUT instead of SM1 , if it makes it easier to access for you.(Thanks again to Clarke !)

Cover tools with Cling Wrap to prevent scratches when attaching Pots and Jacks to the faceplate.

Davies 1900H clone knobs are great , i've used them on all my Best of CGS builds ; you sometimes just need to try once or twice to get the height right on the pots shaft for free movement.

hope this helps y'all.

Many thanks to Don Buchla for allowing this to happen , Thomas White for actually doing it and Clarke68 for the tireless panel work and build help !!
we're not worthy we're not worthy we're not worthy SlayerBadger! SlayerBadger! SlayerBadger!

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 04, 2012 9:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

cleaninglady wrote:
All done , all working ! Sounds Shweet !! w00t

Looks great...congrats!
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 05, 2012 8:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

cleaning lady thanks for the pointers!
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 05, 2012 8:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Very happy to oblige...

Things i forgot to add :

When wiring the power buss between the two PCB's , i used the unused MTA-100 power connection pads right next to the Euro power connections.

This saves having to do a messy solder job on the bottom of the Euro connector.

They are all connected so it doesn't matter which you use.

Also , i used 25mm standoffs between the two boards (at the back only) for added structural strength. They really aren't needed at the front as the pots anchor the boards very firmly to the faceplate.

If i think of more i'll post it soon. screaming goo yo

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 05, 2012 9:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

So what version of the Vactrols are you guys using.I guess what i would like is a longer sustain/ring.
Thanks, Tony

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 06, 2012 1:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

I've used the Dual : VTL5C3/2

I may change it out in the future but i need to learn the ins and outs of this module in a myriad of different input situations , so i'm erring on the side of caution at present.

I would highly recommend looking at the datasheets each of the Vactrols.

http://www.alliedelec.com/search/productdetail.aspx?SKU=70219697#tab=s pecs

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 06, 2012 5:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

i reckon the VTL5C3 is perfect, i used the VTL5C4 in one channel as well which is slower but also really nice.
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 06, 2012 9:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Cool.Thanks guys.I've been looking at the data sheets but still didn't know how the specs actually translate to the sound character.
I have a qmmg so i was looking for something that was a little different,but i have noticed that the character of the qmmg does react according to what it's getting hit with.Maybe i'll give the 3's a shot.
Thanks,Tony

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 06, 2012 10:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

For a longer ring I believe the VTL5C4 might be what you want.
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 06, 2012 10:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Ok, i just found this link in the other thread:http://soundcloud.com/elanhickler/buchla-lopass-1
The 3's sound a little tighter in the demo but hard to hear a big difference because the source material isn't very "percussive".
I guess i can look at the qmmg and see what he used then i'll have a reference.

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 06, 2012 11:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

i'd post a comparison if my Soundcloud account wasn't full....at least on my LPG, there is a huge difference in the attack and decay response between the 3's and the 4's. the resonance in filter mode sounds different too. but i understand vactrols can vary a lot even when they're nominally the same type, so YMMV.
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 06, 2012 4:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

50quidsoundboy wrote:
i'd post a comparison if my Soundcloud account wasn't full....at least on my LPG, there is a huge difference in the attack and decay response between the 3's and the 4's. the resonance in filter mode sounds different too. but i understand vactrols can vary a lot even when they're nominally the same type, so YMMV.


Do you have a preference between the two ? In that demo the 4's almost sound a little to sloppy so maybe i'm not after a longer "ring"?

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 06, 2012 4:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

The 3 seems to be the standard. I like how the 4 sounds for melodic stuff but for percussive stuff the 3 kills imo.
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 06, 2012 4:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

tony d wrote:


Do you have a preference between the two ? In that demo the 4's almost sound a little to sloppy so maybe i'm not after a longer "ring"?


currently my preference seems to be the 3, but i'd rather have my dual LPG with one channel of 3's plus one channel of 4's, than simply all 3's. i'll definitely get some use out of the slower channel.
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 06, 2012 7:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Thanks guys!
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 11, 2012 12:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Edit: Whoops. Found my answer in an earlier post. oops
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 11, 2012 6:03 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

I have just bought a made LPG and is it possible things may be upside down? On all my other LPGs when you rotate anti clockwise you create the LPG bongo sound but on this its clockwise. I find the bongo sound is only attainable using the MATHS with this LPG.

Also I find the LPG to be very quiet compared to the Plan B LPG and The Optomix. The filter is at a good level.

Any fixes?

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 11, 2012 9:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Just in case anyone was curious the QMMG uses VTL5C3/2
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 11, 2012 10:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

tony d wrote:
Just in case anyone was curious the QMMG uses VTL5C3/2


i checked my Borg 1 and it uses a pair of VTL5C3
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 11, 2012 2:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

With the help of Dave Brown coaching me through this I finally finished my Dual LPG. I used his build plus some modifications to help with Clarke's panel and it being a dual unit. The CV control is an attentuverter and the sum mix mixes both sides at half to not have the Sum Out clip when combining. You can read about Dave's build on his page but note the differences between the 2 PCBs and also the wiring. There's an error on the version 3.2 PCB(all of mine anyway) that requires a wire link shown in green in my wiring schematic.


Dave Brown's Build
http://modularsynthesis.com/nrm/lopass/lopass.htm

My Wiring Schematic
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/11856079/wiringschematicduallpgclarkepanel.jpg

Dave's modifield schematic for PCB #1
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/11856079/Lopass%20Gate%20rev3%20schematic%20ma tt.jpg

Dave's modifield schematic for PCB #2
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/11856079/Lopass%20Gate%20rev3%20schematic%20ma tt%20no%20mixer.jpg

Thanks Dave SlayerBadger! Guinness ftw!
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 11, 2012 6:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

msprigings wrote:
With the help of Dave Brown coaching me through this I finally finished my Dual LPG. I used his build plus some modifications to help with Clarke's panel and it being a dual unit. The CV control is an attentuverter and the sum mix mixes both sides at half to not have the Sum Out clip when combining. You can read about Dave's build on his page but note the differences between the 2 PCBs and also the wiring. There's an error on the version 3.2 PCB(all of mine anyway) that requires a wire link shown in green in my wiring schematic.

His PCB which I believe is the latest revision had the ground plane which connects to pin 5 of U2 pinched off. I assume this happened when the power runs were modified. This only affects the optional CV sum mixer. I had him jumper pin 5 to pin 10 on U2 to fix it.

The area in question is shown in red.

Dave

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 11, 2012 6:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Does anyone know what vactrol the Plan B LPG uses? That was the best sounding LPG sound out of all I have owned

Plan B LPG
QMMG
Optomix
LPG

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 11, 2012 7:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Is there a spec difference between these vactrols?

http://www.smallbearelec.com/Detail.bok?no=347

http://www.alliedelec.com/search/productdetail.aspx?SKU=70219697#tab=s pecs

The latter is the part number on the parts list provided by Thomas. Did anyone order their vactrols from somewhere other than Allied? $16 is pretty pricey.
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 11, 2012 9:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Finished. First DIY module grin

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 11, 2012 9:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

msprigings wrote:
Finished. First DIY module grin



Nice! thumbs up

Can you post a side shot?
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 11, 2012 9:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

The topmost board is what's labeled as "board #2" on my wiring schematic above.

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 11, 2012 10:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Thanks for the photo. Nice build!
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 11, 2012 10:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

The wiring on the first board was a rat's nest (hides)
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 13, 2012 1:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Hello RLPG loyal customers,

An error in the PCB has been reported to me by the amazing Dave Brown. One of the traces got moved too close to the PCB pads and the ground plane is cut off resulting a in a floating pin that should be grounded. The good news is that it only takes 1 resistor clipping soldered between U2 pins 5 and 10 to fix it. Details and pictures courtesy of Mr. Brown can be found on the RLPG page at my site:

http://www.naturalrhythmmusic.com/lopass.html

I apologize for this oversight! I am thankful it is an easy fix and for the catch by Dave. Thank you again for your order and support.

Thomas White
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 14, 2012 2:03 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

what are the blue trimmers for? Is it to adjust the filter or the vactrols?
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 14, 2012 8:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Both-it's to get a comparable response range between the two channels.
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 15, 2012 11:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

I'm trying to figure out the orientation of the 3PDT toggle switches. If I'm looking directly at the panel (Clarkes), the left toggle has the "Q11" side facing outward. I'm stumped as to which of the terminals get wired to (correctly) on the PCB. help
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 15, 2012 11:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

If you're looking at the schematic, the wiring is shown as if you were looking at the back of the switch with the filter-only position at the top (up) and the amp-only position at the bottom (down).
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 15, 2012 11:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

My problem is I don't know up from down on this thing. oops

Here's what I'm looking at: http://www.simfonik.com/wp-content/uploads/lpg-toggle.JPG

Any idea what # that left pin is? I'm thinking it's 3.

Edit: The keyway is up, right?
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 15, 2012 11:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

It's symmetrical. Just flip the switch and see which axis it moves along, and then put it in position so that the three positions are up/middle/down with respect to that Clarke68 panel. Since you're building with the Clarke68 panel, the filter-only mode should be the "down" position. So when you connect the wire, the schematic looks upside-down. If you're looking at the back of the switch once it's attached to the front panel, S1 is the bottom-right, and S3 is the bottom-middle, and S6 is the top-left.

Edit: I've just looked at your picture. The left pin should have nothing soldered to it. S1 is the right pin, and S2 is the middle pin. (I'm assuming you've attached it so that the switch moves along the correct axis. It looks like you did.)

Second edit: I don't understand how you could think S3 is the left pin. S3 is in the middle of a side, not on a corner.
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 16, 2012 2:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

simfonik wrote:
I'm trying to figure out the orientation of the 3PDT toggle switches.

Hopefully you got it after reading Buckyball's explanation, but if not here's my take: the wiring of the switch doesn't have anything to do with the panel. Just wire it up the way it is on Thomas' schematic (RLPG 3.2 Schematic Diagram.pdf), and use enough wire that you can mount it to the panel in any orientation. Then mount it to the panel so that you hear the resonance kick in when the switch is in the down position. If you get it "wrong" just rotate the switch the other way.

Make sense?
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 16, 2012 6:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

If you are using that red Mountain Switch from Thomas's BOM then you want the side with the numbers/serial number/part code whatever that is facing up. Then you'll want to wire it like posted earlier in the thread.

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 16, 2012 2:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

msprigings wrote:
If you are using that red Mountain Switch from Thomas's BOM then you want the side with the numbers/serial number/part code whatever that is facing up. Then you'll want to wire it like posted earlier in the thread.

hmmmmmmmm...
I've got two of these mostly built up and vca is working, lpg is working (and sounds killer!!!) - but filter with resonance is not happening on either - both are behaving identically. Resonance pot is doing nothing.
My understanding is that the switch orientation would not matter as far as the actual wiring. But both switches are upside down from what I think you're saying - numbers on top of the switch and s1 in the upper left. looking at the part data sheet - I don't see how it would be relevant - http://www.mouser.com/catalog/specsheets/MS-100875.pdf - but I'll try reversing if there is some direcectional thing about it - but really?
right now they're both just set direct with the jumpers - when the panels get here i'll go through setting them up in sum.
but in the meantime - can anyone see why the resonance wouldn't be happening (filter and 'both' are really the same deal on both builds).
I see builds where guys have resistors left off in the mix section - but that wouldn't have anything to do with this would it?

edit: and yeah i stuck that jumper between 5 and 10 on the tl074.



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PostPosted: Fri Mar 16, 2012 2:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

The switch in this photo isn't wired up the same way as the diagram that msprigings posted above. That would do it...
bsmith wrote:
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bsmith
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 16, 2012 3:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

clarke68 wrote:
The switch in this photo isn't wired up the same way as the diagram that msprigings posted above. That would do it...

Ok just re-did it as i understand that diagram is telling me, getting the same thing, resonance is doing nothing - i must be missing something about this because it seems to me the switch was wired identically before, albeit with the part number on the opposite side of the switch.
Here's what it looks like now:

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clarke68
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 16, 2012 4:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

bsmith wrote:
it seems to me the switch was wired identically before...

Oh dang I'm sorry...I've messed you up. I was seeing the diagram "sideways". If the switch direction is vertical in your last picture (up & down in relation to the table, rather than side-to-side) then you have it right as far as I can tell.

A couple of obvious things, which is (apparently) all I'll be good for until I can get home and look at mine:

1.) Resonance only works in "Filter" mode. You'll hear no resonance in VCA or Both modes.

2.) Switch to Filter mode, crank up the resonance, and turn down the Offset. It should howl at this point, the resonance is very obvious. If not, there's something up.
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simfonik
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 16, 2012 10:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Buckyball wrote:
Second edit: I don't understand how you could think S3 is the left pin. S3 is in the middle of a side, not on a corner.


I was looking at the data sheet for the switch and referring to terminal 3, not S3 on the PCB.

http://www.mouser.com/catalog/specsheets/MS-100875.pdf

I think I understand what to do though, based on the replies you and Clarke provided. Thanks!
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 16, 2012 10:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

bsmith wrote:


that switch looks correct to me.
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bsmith
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 17, 2012 12:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Thanks clarke and msprigings. I built a third and same thing, so at least I'm screwing up consistently somehow. The thing is that the both and filter mode are identical - I understand that the resonance will only happen in the filter mode, it's like it isn't getting to it - the cv in and offset knobs both act exactly the same in that switch position as in the middle position.

edit -aaaaand i got it!
clumsy, careless mistake! i'm using dual vactrols and i didn't cross that middle leg over - it show it on the pcb but my eyeballs kind of stopped at that line going the opportune middle hole. anyway HOORAY this sounds great! rowwwrrr! here's the image on dj thomas' website that made me put my ipad down and jump out of bed to run upstairs an warm up the iron:


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clarke68
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 17, 2012 2:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

bsmith wrote:
I built a third and same thing, so at least I'm screwing up consistently somehow.

Looking at the schematic, the resonance section is really simple...it's just 3 pins off of U1, one cap, one resistor, and one pot. Double check your parts values (that seems like an error that could easily be replicated 3x):

U1 - TL084
C10 - 33pF
R18 - 50k
Resonance Pot - 50k

I don't know what to say beyond that (other than the obvious stuff, like cold solder joints, etc.). There are a couple of lengthy build threads for the RLPG here and at electro-music.com, you might check those for people who had trouble with the resonance.

Edit - Awesome! Glad to hear you got it howling!
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 17, 2012 1:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

bsmith wrote:
here's the image on dj thomas' website that made me put my ipad down and jump out of bed to run upstairs an warm up the iron:
haha thats so funny. i love those aha moments. the damn iron can never warm up fast enough.

i just finished populating mine and am about to wire it up in a few hours. fingers crossed.

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simfonik
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 18, 2012 7:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

I don't have any euro 10 pin connectors. I do have some spare MTA-156 connectors and some 156-to-Euro cables. I'm fine hooking this up like that, right?
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 18, 2012 7:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

simfonik wrote:
I don't have any euro 10 pin connectors. I do have some spare MTA-156 connectors and some 156-to-Euro cables. I'm fine hooking this up like that, right?
yea
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 20, 2012 9:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

finished thomas white low pass gate.

actually the deep switch just happend to let nothing out when engaged. dont know why? i opened the trimpot all up to max but when i switch to deep nothing goes out ( or really deep ... ).

used a standart pre-drilled doepfer plate and added one hole for the deep switch.


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 20, 2012 9:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

I've never used the deep switch but maybe you need to input a higher pitched audio signal?
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 20, 2012 10:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

i should try this. but i used i would call it a midranged osc run by a sequencer. but i will try with a hyper pitched one later. the standart vcf allready cuts the sound all out at the first 1/4 of its seting..
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 20, 2012 10:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

iL wrote:
finished thomas white low pass gate.

actually the deep switch just happend to let nothing out when engaged. dont know why? i opened the trimpot all up to max but when i switch to deep nothing goes out ( or really deep ... ).

used a standart pre-drilled doepfer plate and added one hole for the deep switch.

I think the deep switch is for filtering cv, so you wont hear it...
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 20, 2012 11:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

astroschnautzer wrote:
I think the deep switch is for filtering cv, so you wont hear it...


ok. i understand this. it pushes the offset of filter frequence more down. but what i not hearing is the audio input when switched.

vcf for filter cv signals? what this means then...

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 20, 2012 11:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

iL wrote:
astroschnautzer wrote:
I think the deep switch is for filtering cv, so you wont hear it...


ok. i understand this. it pushes the offset of filter frequence more down. but what i not hearing is the audio input when switched.

vcf for filter cv signals? what this means then...
it means it can make portamento and smoothing kind of stuff out of cv signals.......though I never tried it on this module, I'm just baking a panel for a quad version in my oven that is going to have this function on all channels...
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 20, 2012 8:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

This is my slow one... (plastic still on it.. have a bit more debug to do before I finalise it)



Building another one with faster vactrols (will have blue knobs, obv cool )

Went mostly ok... i have some odd behaviour between the two channels. Both do the same on up and down switch positions (VCA / Filter) but on one, the middle switch position (both?) is resonant.. on the other it isn't. I'll check the switch wiring and resonance sections next time I get a chance to do some work on it.

wootz!
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 20, 2012 8:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Let me know what Vactrols you get ( the faster ones) I find using the MATHS is great to really tighten up the decay.
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 20, 2012 9:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

I used VTL5C4 in these. Slower than I was expecting tbh. Onset is up to 50ms or so and totally dependent on the size of the CV signal... a small/attenuated gate slews really slow, whereas a big spike can make it open with a "wap" in just a few ms. Decay time is always long.. over a second (this is all by ear, so not a hugely accurate measurement). Sounds nice so far but I haven't really got to use it extensively. I was thinking I'd use the VTL5C3 for the faster ones.
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 21, 2012 10:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

I just updated the first post: I'm very close to being sold out on these. I need to hold off taking any more orders until the current orders are fulfilled...once that's done I will announce if there are any more still available.

Thanks!
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 04, 2012 11:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Success! Partially, anyway... I finished building and testing as single units. These things sound great! SlayerBadger!

Now I just need to figure out how to wire them together for clarke's panel. help

Here's a pic:

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PostPosted: Sat Apr 07, 2012 1:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

I'm getting sounds w/ the setup pictured above (last post). So my single units are working.

I'm trying to get a better understanding of the mixer section so I can wire up the two boards and front panel. It was suggested that I try powering up the board without patching it to anything then, taking 2 patch cables -- one coming out of an oscillator, and the other other patched into my output module -- touch the tip of the oscillator patch cable to one of the audio in pads and the tip of the output patch cable to the 'audio mixer out' pad. I interpreted that to mean this (in blue):



I'm not hearing any audio output. However, when I touch the pad that I've highlighted pink with the cable that's patched to my output I do. Nothing else is patched into the board. Any ideas as to where I'm messing up?
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 07, 2012 1:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Did you see clarke68's diagrams earlier in this thread, showing how to wire the mixer stuff up?
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 07, 2012 2:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Spandex wrote:
Did you see clarke68's diagrams earlier in this thread, showing how to wire the mixer stuff up?


I did. And it makes sense. But based on that diagram, it seems like the test of touching the audio in pad with the output of my oscillator, and touching the audio mixer out pad with the patch cable I have hooked up to my output module should produce sound. I'm just wanting to make sure things work before I wire them up. And I want to make sure I actually understand how the audio mix section works.
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 07, 2012 7:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Figured it out with some help from bsmith. The reason the test of touching the audio in and mix out wasn't working, was due to the 3 100k resistors not being there. I added them and audio-in 1,2,3 now output to the audio mixer out. Seems obvious now, but figured I'd mention it incase someone else gets hung up.
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 07, 2012 7:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

simfonik wrote:
Figured it out with some help from bsmith. The reason the test of touching the audio in and mix out wasn't working, was due to the 3 100k resistors not being there. I added them and audio-in 1,2,3 now output to the audio mixer out. Seems obvious now, but figured I'd mention it incase someone else gets hung up.


Yep , i think there is a few pictures of the mixer section without all the 100K's installed floating around ; it could prove confusing for some folks.

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 08, 2012 9:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Were attenuverter instructions ever posted for the CV input? What's entailed with that?
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 08, 2012 9:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Maybe ask negativspace , i don't seem to be able to find the info myself...
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 09, 2012 7:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

I found a two-opamp attenuverter design over at E-M:
http://electro-music.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=77026#77026

So I guess the TL074 is unused, since we're using neither the CV nor audio mixer. The opamps are there, but it doesn't look that simple to me to convert the mixer circuit into an attenuverter.
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msprigings
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 09, 2012 7:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

I posted some instructions from Dave Brown some pages back. Requires some resistor changes here and there and a few other things.
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 09, 2012 8:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Negativspace replied and pointed to Dave Brown's page, too:
http://modularsynthesis.com/nrm/lopass/lopass.htm

It's readily apparent on his schematic. The design is simpler than the one I linked earlier. Hopefully I can figure it out.

Ahah, msprigings, thanks! The second of Dave Brown's schematics that you linked is even more suitable to our build.
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 10, 2012 3:03 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Here is a quad attenuverter I built yesterday for my 281 cv input, working good. Based on foniks shematics...
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 10, 2012 8:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

It should be noted that those 2 schematics I posted 1 is for 1 PCB in the dual LPG and 1 is for the other. What it does when wired as I outlined is both CV pots are attenuverting and the sum output attenuates the 2 incoming signals to half so when combined you won't get clipping on the sum out like you would otherwise by combining 2 full signals.

Hopefully that makes sense.
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 10, 2012 10:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

msprigings wrote:
It should be noted that those 2 schematics I posted 1 is for 1 PCB in the dual LPG and 1 is for the other. What it does when wired as I outlined is both CV pots are attenuverting and the sum output attenuates the 2 incoming signals to half so when combined you won't get clipping on the sum out like you would otherwise by combining 2 full signals.

Hopefully that makes sense.

Somehow I didn't notice your wiring schematic until this morning, but that's very helpful! I'll study it this evening and maybe have a couple questions.
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 10, 2012 10:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

cleaninglady wrote:
i think there is a few pictures of the mixer section without all the 100K's installed floating around ; it could prove confusing for some folks.

That was my bad...it was pictures of my build from back when I was using a CGS04 for the mixer. Here's my Dual LPG now:





Can't help you on the attenuverter, tho... hmmm.....

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 15, 2012 10:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Hi! I'm started to build my dual RLPG....

For the CV IN, have I a trouble.... are these connections right?








PS: hey clarke, what's the situation with the panels? all finished?






...

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 15, 2012 2:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

I finished my build today. Some debugging is in order; I think one of the attenuverters is behaving oddly. Sounds great!


Edit: I need to get some 1900 knobs, too.
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 15, 2012 3:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

yes you do

that's a Moochla! hihi
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 17, 2012 12:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

with vtl5c4 vactrols trimmer position changes and you can't trim trim it correctly like with a vtl5c3, would need some modification for this and it seems to be over my head so I'm staying with vtl5c3....
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PostPosted: Tue May 01, 2012 4:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

I've been getting a bunch of PMs about these. Right now they are sold out...but since Thomas is doing another run, I can too.

I'll start a new thread tonight or tomorrow.

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PostPosted: Wed May 02, 2012 4:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Yes! Yes! Yes!

I was afraid of the mix thingy so didnt pull the trigger last time - bit more confident now (hopefully y'all can help point me in the right direction if Im stuck!) so will DEFINITELY be looking for a dual panel please!

Woo Hoo!

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PostPosted: Wed May 09, 2012 3:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

clarke68 wrote:
Okay, I updated the diagram in the post above. Here it is again:


Hi Clarke,

I've used this schematic to wire Output of board 1 and 2, and also the Mix output. The individual outputs are working but nothing on the Mix output, on both my dual LPG. Should I have to remove some resistors on each side of the TL074 ?

Thanks for your help.

Hédi K.

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PostPosted: Wed May 09, 2012 3:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

hpsounds wrote:
The individual outputs are working but nothing on the Mix output, on both my dual LPG. Should I have to remove some resistors on each side of the TL074 ?.

No...don't remove any resistors. It's the three that are closest to the lower-left corner of the PCB in the diagram that make the mixer work (on the pcb, you can see the traces pretty clearly going from the resistor pads to the "audio in" pads). The way I have it wired up, the mix out is normalized to the outputs of each LPG...so if your regular outputs are connected, you won't get any signal at the mix out.

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PostPosted: Wed May 09, 2012 4:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Thanks Clarke for your answer. The mixer inputs were connected to the switched audio inputs instead of the switched audio outputs. What a stupid mistake I did !

d'oh! d'oh! d'oh! (hides)

Hédi K.

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PostPosted: Wed May 09, 2012 7:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

I'm just starting to build mine (better get on as I have more on the way!) and I am came up against nothing in any of the build threads about tying up the unused opamp inputs. It's probably not that big a deal as the non-inverting inputs are all tied to ground... am I just being a worry wart as usual? I tied the outputs back to the inverting inputs as well...

Cheers
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PostPosted: Sat May 12, 2012 8:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

I'm trying to adjust the offset with the trimpot but from one end to the other nothing changes ...

seriously, i just don't get it

The boards I'm testing are with a slow dual vactrol. I've omitted the 47K resistor close to the deep switch mod. Is the trouble I have is linked to this ? Some help will be appreciated. I didn't check my other faster dual vactrol boards to night.

hyper

Hédi K.

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PostPosted: Sat May 12, 2012 9:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

hpsounds wrote:
I'm trying to adjust the offset with the trimpot but from one end to the other nothing changes ...


I noted the same behaviour. The trimpot allowed me to adjust the upper resonance frequency, as well as the VCA level when offset was fully open. I adjusted by ear for a high frequency, much the same as my CLee LPGs, and found that the VCA level at max offset was then the same as the other two modes. While there is little or no sound over half the Offset range in all modes, it's unlikely that I'm going to use these modules without a CV, which will "pop" the VCA or filter open in that classic LPG manner when the offset is turned right down.

hpsounds wrote:

The boards I'm testing are with a slow dual vactrol. I've omitted the 47K resistor close to the deep switch mod. Is the trouble I have is linked to this ? Some help will be appreciated. I didn't check my other faster dual vactrol boards to night.


No need for the 47k resistor without the deep switch mod - it's not connected to anything without that switch. I have built and set up both "Fast" and "Slow" vactrol versions and both are working. The responses from these are quite markedly different though. One thing that surprised me is the response from the VCA is quite fast - on the "fast" vactrol board it's almost comparable to a normal VCA. The "slow" board has more the response I would have expected. I'm wondering if the extra vactrol on the CLee boards helps give a more traditional "vactrol-like" decay curve to the VCA mode.

Cheers
Blair

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PostPosted: Sun May 13, 2012 6:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

cleaninglady wrote:
Hi Clarke

Got the PCB's for the project today ! w00t

Wanted to ask : in the Euro build using your faceplates and REV. 3.2 PCB's ;
do i leave out the bottom three 100K Resistors (for Audio In and CV In) each side of the TL074 ? hmmm.....


Dunno if this got answered.. but I'm very belatedly adding my 2c.. in case it helps someone who's ordering in the current re-run (I'm just building my second dual from the last run smile)

I just made an annotated PDF which shows what you can skip in the CV/Audio mixer section if you're using one of these Clarke euro panels.

If you are building specifically for this Clarke dual panel, the resistors on the right of the TL074 are for a CV mixer and so are not used. The resistors on the left are for the audio mixer and so, along with the TL074 itself, are only needed on one of your two boards.



If you want my annotated PDF, it's here:
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/3839475/RLPG%203.2%20Components%20-%20For%20Cl arke68%20Euro%20Panel.pdf
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PostPosted: Tue May 29, 2012 7:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

I don't get the BOM that comes with the Lopass Gate... it seems all the capacitors are 250v and 100v which means they are large, too big for the board. Why are these part numbers given? :(

Should I just get 50v caps or what?
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PostPosted: Tue May 29, 2012 8:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Just getting around to building a dual, has anyone done the deep switch with the clarke panels? Where is a good spot to drill? I'm not sure where to do it as I haven't put it all together yet.
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 03, 2012 3:29 pm    Post subject: Bleeed Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Hello everybody,

I just finished building my lpg (12v doepfer style), and everything works perfect (god, the sound...!!), except that I noticed a noisefloor, or rather a small amount of bleed from the original signal.
Most noticeable in filter and both mode. Even when offset is turned all the way down and no cv fed in. Over on electro music someone had the same problem, but no one replied..
Is this just a 'flaw' of the design and to be expected with vactrols? Or is something broken here?
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 03, 2012 3:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

bkbirge wrote:
Just getting around to building a dual, has anyone done the deep switch with the clarke panels? Where is a good spot to drill? I'm not sure where to do it as I haven't put it all together yet.
I don't know how useful the deep switch really is, I never use it. I have them behind a push/pull knob (not euro), frobaly wont fit the euro panel though..
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 10, 2012 5:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

clarke68 wrote:
50quidsoundboy wrote:
i'm assuming that i can connect the two boards in parallel if i don't want to use two separate ribbon cables? i.e. +15v PCB1 wired to +15v PCB2, and -15v PCB1 wired to -15v PCB2, then provide power to PCB1?!

That's right...just add GND to GND to that and you'll be fine.


50quidsoundboy wrote:
is there anything i need to look out for when building the ribbon cables etc?

Not really...just make sure you follow the Eurorack standard of having the red (colored) wire of your ribbon cable along the negative/bottom edge. Of course, it will still work if you don't, but it will be confusing...and hooking up Eurorack power is confusing enough as it is.


my knowledge is more rudimentary than 50quidsoundboy's - any monkey see, monkey do instructions for wiring up two boards? I've also order MTA156 parts in error as I'm building it for Eurorack. I've since order eurorack cables from Erthenvar, but anyone know where I can get a couple of the euro power thingies in the UK? I did order my parts from Farnell (including my vactrolz.... ;-)

can't wait for the PCBs and your panel to arrive, mister '68

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PostPosted: Fri Jun 22, 2012 11:33 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

The cv input is wired directly to #1 on the cv pot or is the cv pot wired somewhere on the pcb? seriously, i just don't get it I cant figure this out!
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 22, 2012 12:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

The cv in pot is a passive attenuator.

So you wire the input jack into the pot then the middle pin out to the pcb cv in. The other pin of the pot goes to ground. U can find diagrams of how to wire up an attenuating pot around the place.
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 22, 2012 12:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Ahhh that makes sense. So does it goes to the "direct input 1v/oct"? or the "cv inputs" that are labeled on the pcb?
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 22, 2012 12:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

From memory, I think it's the 1v/oct yeah. The others are for the CV mixer which isn't used on this panel.
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 22, 2012 12:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Excellent Spandex! Thanks so much for the help! thumbs up
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 08, 2012 1:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

so. I stayed up til 3am soldering my first board, and got to noise. stumped.

checked it a day or later and realised I'd missed the resonance jumpers and a capacitor. oops

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 10, 2012 4:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

so jumpers added, capacitor added. now I get something. in filter mode, it self resonates. however, nothing else is coming through.

I hope these iPhone pics are enough to get some much needed help

WIRING - have I muddled these pots up?


SWITCH - hope it's readable, but is this going the right way?


GENERALLY - is the soldering my problem? again, probably difficult to tell, but if there's anything that looks like a horrific solder, I can try and fix it:


I hope someone can help - I think I might just have made a mess of the pots for the CV and audio, but I'm just feeling baffled...

thanks for any light that can be shed

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 12, 2012 2:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

is it rude for a a DIY noob to Bump! for help? I hope not...
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 13, 2012 12:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

ringstone wrote:


One thing that surprised me is the response from the VCA is quite fast - on the "fast" vactrol board it's almost comparable to a normal VCA. The "slow" board has more the response I would have expected. I'm wondering if the extra vactrol on the CLee boards helps give a more traditional "vactrol-like" decay curve to the VCA mode.

Cheers
Blair


I came up with a non-resonant LPG using 5C3s, and I noticed the same thing. Really fast response, and didn't have any form of the usual decay that I expected to find. Handy, but not quite what I was looking for.

I ended up redesigning it, adding resonance, etc. since I may as well use a really fast/accurate OTA-based VCA if it's not going to have the LPG character.
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 13, 2012 12:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

I think you have to add jumpers to where it says from mixer or direct. Are you buildin a dula or single unit, just wonderin what's connected to the mixer?

Hope this helps smile

muncky wrote:
so jumpers added, capacitor added. now I get something. in filter mode, it self resonates. however, nothing else is coming through.

I hope these iPhone pics are enough to get some much needed help

GENERALLY - is the soldering my problem? again, probably difficult to tell, but if there's anything that looks like a horrific solder, I can try and fix it:


I hope someone can help - I think I might just have made a mess of the pots for the CV and audio, but I'm just feeling baffled...

thanks for any light that can be shed

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PostPosted: Sat Jul 14, 2012 10:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

regenbot wrote:
I think you have to add jumpers to where it says from mixer or direct. Are you buildin a dula or single unit, just wonderin what's connected to the mixer?


hi Regenbot - I'm building a single, checking it works, before building a dual... and I just hadn't a clue where the jacks should be plugging into.

jumpered AUDIO In-DI and CV IN-DI - huzzah, it's making noise!! thanks so much for your help!

on the Mixer, I was taking the audio our from there - this will be LPG 2, in the Clarke Dual. Am I in the wrong place?

now to board two...

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PostPosted: Sat Jul 14, 2012 10:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Quote:

jumpered AUDIO In-DI and CV IN-DI - huzzah, it's making noise!! thanks so much for your help!

on the Mixer, I was taking the audio our from there - this will be LPG 2, in the Clarke Dual. Am I in the wrong place?

now to board two...


glad i could help. There a great pic of the wiring on page5 on this thread, check it.

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 03, 2012 5:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Thanks to Regenbot, and the uber-patient Spandex, I've got a functioning Dual LPG in my little system. first module I've built myself, so quite amazed I haven't burned the house down (tho I did get some smoke when I inadvertently put a board on top of a paperclip while testing eek! )

short build story and test file over here:
http://danjec.com/index.php?/noisebox/05/

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 03, 2012 5:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Thanks to Regenbot, and the uber-patient Spandex, I've got a functioning Dual LPG in my little system. first module I've built myself, so quite amazed I haven't burned the house down (tho I did get some smoke when I inadvertently put a board on top of a paperclip while testing eek! )

short build story and test file over here:
http://danjec.com/index.php?/noisebox/05/

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 08, 2012 8:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

I'm just getting around to testing my builds out, and I'm having an issue that I hope one of you can point out before I go in deep.

When I first fired them up, one seemed to work well (which is puzzling considering the following), while the other wasn't really working. I went back, made sure all solder joints were good, double-checked polarities, etc., but then realized I had not crossed over the middle leg of the dual vactrol as indicated by this diagram.

[/quote]

Once I "fixed" this, neither RLPG made any sound whatsoever. Can anyone tell just from looking at this what my issue might be? (Nevermind the backwards power header--I realized that before I powered it up and have been testing it with the correct voltage supply).

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 15, 2012 12:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Bump for above post: can anyone see anything visually wrong with my build above? Or suggest first places to look for errors? As I said, initially one one the two was working (though somewhat inexplicably, given that I had neglected to bring the middle leg of the dual vactrol over to its correct terminal). Since I "fixed" that mistake, neither produces any sound whatsoever.
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 15, 2012 12:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Have you done the ground trace fix on the cv-summing opamp? I'm pretty sure TW has details of this on his site.
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 15, 2012 3:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

I lied earlier - had a partially functioning second LPG. Spandex did point out it wasn't doing the full range. a quick examination at a two month distance - had wired two of the lugs up wrong on the second switch. Now perfect (save for the second CV attenuator being back to front Mr. Green )
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 16, 2012 11:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

moogah wrote:
Have you done the ground trace fix on the cv-summing opamp? I'm pretty sure TW has details of this on his site.
Ah, I presumed that this was fixed in v. 3.3 of the PCB, but perhaps it was not!
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 17, 2012 4:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Dogue wrote:
moogah wrote:
Have you done the ground trace fix on the cv-summing opamp? I'm pretty sure TW has details of this on his site.
Ah, I presumed that this was fixed in v. 3.3 of the PCB, but perhaps it was not!


No, the last lot of PCBs fixed this issue.

Cheers
Blair

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