Muff's Modules & More

Rod Serling Fan Club · Posted: Fri Nov 25, 2011 2:52 pm Post subject:

Yes, my last name is korth. It's a little tongue-in-cheek thing on the whole verbos or buchla and associates. I actually just changed it a little and swapped the attenuverting mixer and wogglebug places. I thought that was a bit more balanced with the mixers being central but closer to the edges... or something.

When do you get your panel from Luigi?

EATyourGUITAR · Posted: Fri Nov 25, 2011 6:40 pm Post subject:

if I get what I want, this will be the MFOS noise cornucopia and the blue lantern diode filter together in one awesome module. well see if I can buy a PCB and mod it for 15V. he was pretty cool about selling PCB's before but I don't know how he feels about it now that he is popular selling finished modules in euro.

fluxmonkey · Posted: Fri Nov 25, 2011 8:54 pm Post subject:

nice. glad you spelled "REZNORATOR" right... i think.

EATyourGUITAR · Posted: Fri Nov 25, 2011 9:25 pm Post subject:

its a joke
the title "DEBBIE DIGS DIODES" is also a joke

after reading that thread where someone actually thought the jomox T-Resonator was endorsed by Trent Reznor I LOLed. the noise comes from diodes and the filter is a diode filter so its just full of cheap jokes!

Norman_Phay · Posted: Wed Jan 11, 2012 9:43 am Post subject:

OK have a look at this one & see what yall think. This is for 2 of J3RK's 258-esque VCOs, in a hybrid "frachla" format, IE frac sized panel, layout adapted from Buchla-style, er...thing.

I need to add "FM" and "WAVESHAPE" legends, saw and square graphics. The main freq pot is intended to be the little multiturn pot and counting dial combo I used for the JH LVCOs. I intend to use blue davis clone knobs for all of the other pots, and make it all-banana?

If it works OK I'll make some more in a similar style - DJTW LPGs, CLEE LPGs, Toppo's func gen, some of the fritz PCBs I just bought, all should fit pretty good I think grin

Norman_Phay · Posted: Wed Jan 11, 2012 9:45 am Post subject:

whoops guess what I forgot ._. ._. ._. ._.

e-grad · Posted: Wed Jan 11, 2012 10:03 am Post subject:

Panel size and mounting holes seem to be correct.

Jack holes are 8mm which I think a bit big but you're going banana, won't you?

Norman_Phay · Posted: Wed Jan 11, 2012 10:30 am Post subject:

Yeah, banana jacks only. I could make it mixed jacks like a real 258 - I was tempted to! - but that would probably be a bit daft really.

sduck · Posted: Wed Jan 11, 2012 11:37 am Post subject:

I added the waveshape hpgl I came up with - you'll need to resize and position it according to your needs. It's currently no-infill, and the mac version of fpd doesn't allow color changes to hpgl, so you'll need to recolor it - it works in windows ok. Hope this helps - if it doesn't, just chuck it, no problems.

Norman_Phay · Posted: Thu Jan 12, 2012 9:43 am Post subject:

That's absolutely brilliant, thatnks very much! I altered the panel thusly (see attached) and I think all it needs now are the mounting holes for the PCBs. Actually hang on, it also needs the little plus and minus signs within little circles for the 2 mod depth knobs. I'm going to my workshop tomorrow, I'll bring a board home. I have a suspicion that it will be too long to fit flat on the back of the panel, we'll see though, it would be great if it did fit of course:

Rod Serling Fan Club · Posted: Thu Jan 12, 2012 11:48 am Post subject:

I ran into a couple issues on my panel, both SCM related. I thought I should post just in case someone was going to make banana versions of these and saw my panel.

1- The SCM numbering is slightly amiss.
2- Somehow I didn’t realize that there was normalization on the Slip and Rotate jacks of the SCM and RCD. I talked to 4ms for the best solution. Fortunately for the RCD it sounds like it shouldn’t matter but on the SCM I had to add a switch for when I want to use Slip. I ended up drilling a hole between the 2 LEDs between rotate and S8 for the switch. I debated using the hole for the “IN” LED but that put an unmarked switch further away from the Slip jack.

Norman_Phay · Posted: Mon Jan 16, 2012 1:33 pm Post subject:

The J3RK PCB is indeed too long to make this a flat-backer. Oh well it's not a deal breaker, I'll add the mounting holes, the little + and - signs and order one of these up I think.

jarvis · Posted: Sat Feb 04, 2012 12:15 pm Post subject:

This is less a proof reading question and more of a formatting question. I'm working on a new system using Buchla sized panels but with a Wiard style layout (knobs on top, jacks on the bottom). I know you can get banana jacks pretty close, but I'm wondering if these panels are too dense. I don't have any banana cables to test with, so I'm asking for anyone with a banana system to chime in. The jacks are mostly .5" from center to center horizontally and about .8" center to center vertically. Am I making patching difficult for myself?

negativspace · Posted: Sun Feb 05, 2012 11:12 am Post subject:

I don't have a banana system so I'm no help, but that looks awesome.

emdot_ambient · Posted: Sun Feb 05, 2012 2:14 pm Post subject:

Same here. That thing looks f-tardedly awesome.

Rod Serling Fan Club · Posted: Sun Feb 05, 2012 2:57 pm Post subject:

At the widest point (where you can plug another cable in) a pomona cable is slightly more than 1/2" wide. I hope that helps.

mome rath · Posted: Sun Feb 05, 2012 3:36 pm Post subject:

jarvis · Posted: Sun Feb 05, 2012 7:17 pm Post subject:

fluxmonkey · Posted: Sun Feb 05, 2012 10:54 pm Post subject:

a non-obvious fact that's caught me in the past is that the outside diameter of the nut is actually greater than the shoulder of the jack itself... and if you want to use a nutdriver on those nuts, you need to allow clearance for the tool as well. there's some variation between mfrs, .5" centers will work for most nut/driver combinations, but not all. fiddling w/ needlenose plier to tighten those things is a real pita.