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My Simple Clock Divider (does it make sense?)
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Author My Simple Clock Divider (does it make sense?)
fonik
Super Deluxe Wiggler


Joined: 19 Sep 2008
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 06, 2009 5:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Kwote wrote:
I missed the mention of the quantizer but I’d definitely be interested in that board so please keep us posted.

thank you for your interest.
i am currently working on it on the breadboard. i am posting about my progress over at the e-m-forum (it is the place i call my home). as soon as there is a result/PCB/module/project/whatever i will surely post it here.

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www.fonitronik.de
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consumed
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 06, 2009 7:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

i definitely like this behavior even though my clock divider works like this:



i dont see a 'right' way in either design. it would be fantastic to have both behaviors in a system.

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ignatzthemouse
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PostPosted: Wed May 27, 2009 5:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

oooh ive just been thinking about how to do this. Will find this post and the diagrams useful.
The panel looks pretty btw.
Cheers fonik.
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wetterberg
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PostPosted: Wed May 27, 2009 8:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

just re-read this thread - I like the debate about reset to nothing or step 1, actually. From my perspective I'd actually prefer the reversed behaviour - that resetting "primes the counter", but that it's the CLOCK that determines when we get the first count.

Fonik, I'm quite interested in this circuit, and I figure I'd breadboard this as soon as possible, with the two remaining /64 and /128 divisions too - might as well wink

Quick questions:

1) could you explain to me the circuitry surrounding the Reset In? Is it debouncing for the button? From the way I've understood it the 4024 is heavily buffered internally already?

2)Are there simpler methods of outputting, without going through transistors?


cheers. help
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fonik
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PostPosted: Wed May 27, 2009 11:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

wetterberg wrote:
1) could you explain to me the circuitry surrounding the Reset In? Is it debouncing for the button? From the way I've understood it the 4024 is heavily buffered internally already?

the two transistors form a simplified descrete schmitt trigger. they will help to condition the reset signal.
for the clock input i use one transistor only, since the 4024s input clocks at the falling edge, not of the rising edge as the 4017 does.

Quote:
2)Are there simpler methods of outputting, without going through transistors?

you could leave them off, but i would not. they are voltage buffers so you can drive as many modules from the output as you might like to.
the CMOS provide limited current on their ouputs. so if you drive multiple modules from one output the voltage might decrease, thus not trigger the subsequent modules anymore.
there is a divider from a manufacturer (i can't remember right now) that suffers exactly from this problem.

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matthias
www.modular.fonik.de
www.fonitronik.de
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wetterberg
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PostPosted: Wed May 27, 2009 12:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

thanks for the help, man! I really appreciate it! Having a bit of a lightbulb-diy moment here, and loving it!
fonik wrote:
wetterberg wrote:
1) could you explain to me the circuitry surrounding the Reset In? Is it debouncing for the button? From the way I've understood it the 4024 is heavily buffered internally already?

the two transistors form a simplified descrete schmitt trigger. they will help to condition the reset signal.
for the clock input i use one transistor only, since the 4024s input clocks at the falling edge, not of the rising edge as the 4017 does.
Brilliant, cheers! So the circuit around Clock in is a simple logic inverter, and I could use a regular schmitt trigger instead?
fonik wrote:

Quote:
2)Are there simpler methods of outputting, without going through transistors?

you could leave them off, but i would not. they are voltage buffers so you can drive as many modules from the output as you might like to.
the CMOS provide limited current on their ouputs. so if you drive multiple modules from one output the voltage might decrease, thus not trigger the subsequent modules anymore.
there is a divider from a manufacturer (i can't remember right now) that suffers exactly from this problem.

Another lightbulb; since "opening" the transistors with the IC means that current can flow from the +v rail, correct?
Now all I need to do is understand the concept of resistors "pulling down to ground", and I'm off smile
we're not worthy
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fonik
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PostPosted: Wed May 27, 2009 1:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

wetterberg wrote:
thanks for the help, man! I really appreciate it! Having a bit of a lightbulb-diy moment here, and loving it!
fonik wrote:
wetterberg wrote:
1) could you explain to me the circuitry surrounding the Reset In? Is it debouncing for the button? From the way I've understood it the 4024 is heavily buffered internally already?

the two transistors form a simplified descrete schmitt trigger. they will help to condition the reset signal.
for the clock input i use one transistor only, since the 4024s input clocks at the falling edge, not of the rising edge as the 4017 does.
Brilliant, cheers! So the circuit around Clock in is a simple logic inverter, and I could use a regular schmitt trigger instead?

try it. breadboards are our best friends. you don't have to understand all and everything, but you can try an be happy if it works. seriously.

Quote:

fonik wrote:

Quote:
2)Are there simpler methods of outputting, without going through transistors?

you could leave them off, but i would not. they are voltage buffers so you can drive as many modules from the output as you might like to.
the CMOS provide limited current on their ouputs. so if you drive multiple modules from one output the voltage might decrease, thus not trigger the subsequent modules anymore.
there is a divider from a manufacturer (i can't remember right now) that suffers exactly from this problem.

Another lightbulb; since "opening" the transistors with the IC means that current can flow from the +v rail, correct?

yep. you could us an opamp too.

Quote:
Now all I need to do is understand the concept of resistors "pulling down to ground", and I'm off smile

which resistors you are referring to?

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cheers,
matthias
www.modular.fonik.de
www.fonitronik.de
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wetterberg
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PostPosted: Wed May 27, 2009 2:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

fonik wrote:
try it. breadboards are our best friends. you don't have to understand all and everything, but you can try an be happy if it works. seriously.
oh yes definitely! I'm just waiting on parts from "rapid" (slow motherfuckers very frustrating ) and then I'm all over it - I bought a nice assortment of components from there for just this purpose - but for now it's "imaginary breadboarding for me" wink (btw, does anyone know what that breadboarding app is called? Does circuit diagrams as well?)
fonik wrote:

Quote:
Now all I need to do is understand the concept of resistors "pulling down to ground", and I'm off smile

which resistors you are referring to?

ehrm... I'm not too good at all this stuff, but isn't r5 a pull-down resistor? And what about the 2.2k? not too sure about those?

Andreas - I can't stop looking at these red and black pcbs, they're gorgeous! And they feel really classy to the touch love
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fonik
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PostPosted: Wed May 27, 2009 2:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

wetterberg wrote:
btw, does anyone know what that breadboarding app is called? Does circuit diagrams as well?

software you mean? i think we are talking about spice modelling here. i am using a very simple software called electronic workbench (no longer available). i know tim stichcomb pointed to a very good freeware, but i can't remember.

Quote:
ehrm... I'm not too good at all this stuff, but isn't r5 a pull-down resistor? And what about the 2.2k? not too sure about those?

R5? i dunno how it is called, however it forms a pulse conditioner in conjunction with the cap, i think (it is a leftover from ken stones circuitry). the diode keeps only the positive going signals.

the 2.2k at the LEDs are needed to drive the LEDs with current.
the 2.2k at the outputs form a voltage divider in conjunction with the 1k resistors to bring down the 15V gates to a reasonable value.

IIRC (and the real cracks should chime in here if i am wrong) pulldown resistors are used to pull an input down to GND if it is low. if you have i.e. more than one clock signal input on a CMOS (say the 4017 in a fonitronik seqswitch) you need to pull down the ICs inputs to make them stable.

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matthias
www.modular.fonik.de
www.fonitronik.de
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wetterberg
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PostPosted: Wed May 27, 2009 2:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

fonik wrote:
wetterberg wrote:
btw, does anyone know what that breadboarding app is called? Does circuit diagrams as well?

software you mean? i think we are talking about spice modelling here. i am using a very simple software called electronic workbench (no longer available). i know tim stichcomb pointed to a very good freeware, but i can't remember.
hehe, I'm not as advanced yet - no I'm talking about a piece of software that represents a virtual breadboard, where you can place virtual components and form a circuit *layout*.
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ignatzthemouse
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 03, 2009 6:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

My limited experience means I'd prefer to just build from your schematic fonik but I have a load of hcf4040be ics knocking about so I'm using one of those to build a clock divider instead.

I hadn't intended to use transistors on the outputs and wasn't sure about doing so for the inputs. It seems to cope with clock from the A190 but isn't 100% reliable so I should experiment a little with that.

I mainly intended to use it to drive a 4017 based sequencer so I suppose I could use a very stripped down version.

I'll end up just building a prototype and seeing how it behaves but if anyone has suggestions of any kind id like to hear them.
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fonik
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 03, 2009 8:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

i would say go with the transistors on the input stage. would be some protection for CMOS as well.
the 4040 delivers 6.8mA on the output (+15V operation). way enough to drive LEDs and the 4017:
say you run the 4040 from +15V. following ohm's law that would give you about 14.95V on a high output. with a 6.8k resistor in series to drive a LED you would suck 2.2mA (3.2mA for 4.7K).

the 4040 has 12(!) stages: /1, /2, /4, /8, /16 ... /1024 - wow. that's for real slow motion, i think.

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matthias
www.modular.fonik.de
www.fonitronik.de
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ignatzthemouse
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 03, 2009 8:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Interesting. I'm going to run it in a box off a 9v battery for now. I've never used anything other than batteries to power diy stuff. Just picked up a Ken Stone synthacon filter pcb which will be my first foray into the mains.

I was thinking of making one of the outputs switch able since the 4040 divides so insanely far.

I'm sure you make a good point about an input transistor protecting the ic. I've already fried one in the last week.

The pics in another thread of your diy racks are great btw and have inspired me to replace my piss poor soldering iron with something better.
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talkboxert
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 01, 2011 10:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Good to have it with the converters, i keep inverting my pulse before it goes to my doepfer divider to keep evrything on beat...
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knob_alchemist
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 05, 2012 2:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Interesting...I'm just in search of a simple DIY Clock divider...
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ersatzplanet
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 05, 2012 3:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Looking at the schematic it seems pretty easy to put a header (3 pins for each inverter) that would allow bypassing the inverters so the user could choose "high on one" action or not. Even be able to choose different settings for each divisions output. Then they could make an expansion board with switches to allow front panel selection. Only if you haven't laid out the board yet. People who wanted to make it without the expense of the headers could just bridge the connections with bus wire.
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fonik
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 05, 2012 3:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

everything is possible, of course! alas, then it is not that simple anymore hihi
james, i have a SMT layout in the drawer, already. the only switch is a switch to select the division of the 5th output socket, though.

maybe i should/could do a TH DIY layout with all bells and whistles?

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matthias
www.modular.fonik.de
www.fonitronik.de
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ersatzplanet
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 05, 2012 3:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

fonik wrote:
everything is possible, of course! alas, then it is not that simple anymore hihi
james, i have a SMT layout in the drawer, already. the only switch is a switch to select the division of the 5th output socket, though.

maybe i should/could do a TH DIY layout with all bells and whistles?


I'm sure you could sell both. The DIY crowd is getting bigger and bigger each day and as far as production cost go it is just your time bagging parts and that is if you even want to offer a parts kit. I say offer Bare board, Bare board with parts, Bare board with parts and front panel. Sell to all crowds. Some may buy the TH version just because of the added features.

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James Husted

Synthwerks
www.synthwerks.com
info@synthwerks.com
james@synthwerks.com
synthwerks@me.com

Synthwerks is a proud member of the Mostly Modular Trade Association (http://www.mostlymodular.com).

"It takes about a week to learn how to play a synthesizer, but several years to learn how *not* to play it." - Brian Eno
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emdot_ambient
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 05, 2012 4:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Some say that less is more...but I say added features is more. Mr. Green

I always want more.

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