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[Orders Closed] - Euro Panel for Serge Resonant EQ |
thedug
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 Posted: Thu Mar 29, 2012 11:26 pm Post subject: |
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*SNIP*
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Last edited by thedug on Fri Mar 30, 2012 12:12 am; edited 1 time in total |
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thedug
Wiggling with Experience
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| Posted: Thu Mar 29, 2012 11:38 pm Post subject: |
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Does anybody know what's up with these 2 unlabeled spots on the pcb?
edit: According to ken, these where traces/pads on the original board. Ken has not idea what they were for.
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Last edited by thedug on Sun Apr 01, 2012 8:04 am; edited 1 time in total |
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cleaninglady
Veteran Wiggler
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Location: creeping up behind you
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| Posted: Sun Apr 01, 2012 7:28 am Post subject: |
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I've had a really hard time sourcing styrene caps for the CGS202 board.
Can anyone suggest a seller for these components ?
Especially if it's in Australia but anywhere is fine.
What was the approx. cost ?
Not Mouser please , shipping is $39 minimum to AU.
Also , which ones in the BOM are styrene ?
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thedug
Wiggling with Experience
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| Posted: Sun Apr 01, 2012 8:03 am Post subject: |
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They are all styrene in my mom except for 3 which are propelene.
It's pretty clear in the descriptions. Just load it up and have a look.
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ringstone
antipodean experimentalist
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Location: Trudging through the Capital Wasteland
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| Posted: Sun Apr 01, 2012 7:45 pm Post subject: |
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| Quote: | | Oh, and the LEDs in my sliders were removable BTW, I'm pretty sure that a standard 4x7mm rectangular LED will go in there. I have a bunch on order to try. |
It seems that these LEDs are slightly smaller than the generally sold rectangular LEDs, after all. So indeed  Sigh...
Cheers
Blair
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cleaninglady
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Cat-A-Tonic
Lobsters love Muff
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Location: Yokohama, Japan
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| Posted: Sun Apr 01, 2012 9:23 pm Post subject: |
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| thedug wrote: | They are all styrene in my mom except for 3 which are propelene.
It's pretty clear in the descriptions. Just load it up and have a look. |
Your mom is the bomb. 
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ringstone
antipodean experimentalist
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| Posted: Sun Apr 01, 2012 10:23 pm Post subject: |
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Hmm. I believe there is still some confusion over the number/type of caps on this board.
For those wishing to reproduce a more "vintage" version of this circuit, I believe that it is the two caps in each EQ stage that are required to be Polystyrene. This would be 4 x 220pF, 2x680pF, 2x1nF (these are missing from Ken's BOM), 2x2n2, 4x4n7, 2x10n, 2x22n, 2x47n.
There are also 10x10nF caps that are involved in power supply decoupling (?). Only 2 appear in the circuit diagram, but underneath this Ken has added "Multiple 10n placed around PCB as required". If you examine the board overlay these become quite apparent. Mylar/Polypropylene or other film technologies would probably be more than adequate for these (perhaps even ML ceramic) as I do not believe they will affect the sound. Some care of course will need to be taken to ensure that the 10nF styrenes go in the right spot.
There are also 2x47pF caps, ceramic would probably be the most appropriate solution here.
Once again, I do not have my PCBs yet, and I have been surprised before by changes in CGS boards, so if someone who has boards/has finished the build can look this over and verify this, I'd be grateful.
Cheers
Blair
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consumed
International Filter Conspiracy
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| Posted: Sun Apr 01, 2012 11:40 pm Post subject: |
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has anyone substituted C0G/NP0 caps for the polystyrenes in their build?
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thetwlo
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| Posted: Sun Apr 01, 2012 11:52 pm Post subject: |
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stupid question, as it's been a while since i've built, still need to steel wool the boards first? or not so much needed with new pcbs?
Thanks for all the tips on the types of caps to use! |
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ringstone
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| Posted: Mon Apr 02, 2012 7:56 pm Post subject: |
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| thetwlo wrote: | stupid question, as it's been a while since i've built, still need to steel wool the boards first? or not so much needed with new pcbs?
Thanks for all the tips on the types of caps to use! |
Never needed to do this with any CGS PCBs... it's probably only indicated if you have a board where the traces have been corroded over time. Which I believe shouldn't happen with most manufactured PCBs these days as they are treated - steel wool will more likely damage any protection on the traces.
Cheers
Blair
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asterisk
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| Posted: Mon Apr 02, 2012 8:11 pm Post subject: |
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question about wiring up the subboard to the PCB:
+/-V and 0V from the subboard go to the +VE/-VE and 0V pads on the PCB? do they also go to the corresponding pads at the 4 pin POWER header on the PCB as well? or do these pads stay empty since the power connection will be made with the euro connector on the subboard?
let me know, this is a little unclear. thanks! |
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bkbirge
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| Posted: Mon Apr 02, 2012 8:49 pm Post subject: |
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| thetwlo wrote: | stupid question, as it's been a while since i've built, still need to steel wool the boards first? or not so much needed with new pcbs?
Thanks for all the tips on the types of caps to use! |
I'd be afraid to do this on those single sided boards, seems the traces lift if I even look at 'em funny. I've got a nice backlog stacked up for about a year in my humid garage, many of them CGS boards and they all look fine, no corrosion.
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iopop
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| Posted: Tue Apr 03, 2012 12:38 am Post subject: |
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| asterisk wrote: | question about wiring up the subboard to the PCB:
+/-V and 0V from the subboard go to the +VE/-VE and 0V pads on the PCB? do they also go to the corresponding pads at the 4 pin POWER header on the PCB as well? or do these pads stay empty since the power connection will be made with the euro connector on the subboard?
let me know, this is a little unclear. thanks! |
I would guess that is the case, was thinking the same the other day when working on the subboard - still missing the SOIC op-amp so the boards are back onto the backlog shelf.
You can always use your DMM to be completely sure. The cgs202 board needs to be powered somehow and it seems a bit redundant to use both a MTA156 and euro connector for power. |
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samuraipizzacat29
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negativspace
Manhattan Analog
Joined: 13 Apr 2010
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Location: Manhattan, KS
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| Posted: Tue Apr 03, 2012 12:21 pm Post subject: |
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| thetwlo wrote: | stupid question, as it's been a while since i've built, still need to steel wool the boards first? or not so much needed with new pcbs?
Thanks for all the tips on the types of caps to use! |
You only need to do that with PCBs that have oxidized a bit. This typically happens with lead-free boards that are more than ~1 year old. You'll see it if you need it - the tarnishing is quite visible. (If you let my subboard sit until December, you may need to clean it. Otherwise no worries.)
As for powering the CGS202, I ran from the -/g/+ pads on my board to the MTA156 connector pads on the CGS board. Originally I had those pads on the subboard for taking power directly from the second set of pads on Ken's boards - but then I added the Euro connector to my board and those became output rather than input.
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asterisk
Super Deluxe Wiggler
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Location: Burlington VT
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| Posted: Tue Apr 03, 2012 7:38 pm Post subject: |
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thanks for the clarification, i think it makes sense now.
so nothing needs to be soldered to the extra set of power pads on ken's board then (the non-mta156 connector pads)? |
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negativspace
Manhattan Analog
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asterisk
Super Deluxe Wiggler
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Location: Burlington VT
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| Posted: Wed Apr 04, 2012 10:32 am Post subject: |
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did you guys use 50k or 100k LOG pots for your input attenuators?
just curious about that...... |
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bkbirge
Ultra Wiggler
Joined: 28 Nov 2010
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Location: Houston, TX
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| Posted: Wed Apr 04, 2012 11:05 am Post subject: |
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I'm using 50k.
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