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WIGGLING 'LITE' IN GUEST MODE

[Project] Random Looping Sequencer / Turing Machine
MUFF WIGGLER Forum Index -> Music Tech DIY Goto page Previous  1, 2, 3 ... 5, 6, 7 ... 56, 57, 58  Next [all]
Author [Project] Random Looping Sequencer / Turing Machine
Tombola
raisinbag wrote:
Hey thanks Sduck, boards look great, now time to start loading them up.

Tombola (or anyone), is there a reason for the specific switch in the BOM? Can I use just any OnOffOn SpSt switch? The one Spec'ed from Mouser is Like $7. I can save $40-$50 using what I have on hand.


Ideally the write switch should be (on)off(on) - momentary ons - otherwise when you flip it up or down it will just write the whole sequence high or low.

But if your switches fit the board and work with your panel, they should be fine.

RE: LEDs, definitely you could use 10x (actually 9x, because one LED in the matrix isn't used) simple LEDs, you might want to tweak the current resistors.
Tombola
dupe
Tombola
sduck wrote:
7$? Too much! I subbed NKK's - the (on)-off-(on) spdt one (633-M201802) was 4.46$, the on-none-on spdt (633-M201202) was 3.53$.


Yes, my Mouser powers are weak. Thank you.

I've just updated the mouser BOM - cut £5 off the cost!

Full Mouser Project: http://bit.ly/MRGqRF access id: bc8a4a43bf
raisinbag
so "Tweaking" the resistors for single LEDs, would that be the network? I assume a standard LED might draw more Current, so would I be trying to reduce that with a larger resistor value? If memory serves the network is 330 Ohms. What should I be aiming for V OR I across each LED? I guess I can always get a 10pin Network and cut off the useless pin, as the 9 pins are hard to find locally.
Navs
Built & working! love

http://navsmodularlab.blogspot.de/2012/07/turing-with-bitsy.html



Thank you, Tom!
sduck
Tombola wrote:

RE: LEDs, definitely you could use 10x (actually 9x, because one LED in the matrix isn't used) simple LEDs, you might want to tweak the current resistors.


Great! Which one of the leds isn't used?

Edit - never mind, I think I figured it out
Tombola
Navs wrote:
Built & working! love

http://navsmodularlab.blogspot.de/2012/07/turing-with-bitsy.html



Thank you, Tom!


Thanks Navs - I'm very relieved to see the first successful build. (Although you'd find it a lot easier to paint the infill *before* peeling off the masking tape!)
Peake
Many thanks for the project! One thing I've not seen mentioned is the required pulse/gate level to advance the steps. I'll assume 10V? I want to use this with analog oscillators outputting commercial levels of about 1.2VRMS so I'll need some gain in between?
Tombola
Peake wrote:
the required pulse/gate level to advance the steps. I'll assume 10V?


No, there's a comparator on the pulse input. It should trigger on any voltage above 1.5v.

In practise, it clocks with every square or pulse in my little system (Dixie, Doepfer quad LFO, Maths pulse outputs, arduino pulses) and most other wave shapes, although it can be unusual with sines or E350 wavetable weirdness. There's no hysteresis (smoothing) on the clock input, so that might be the problem with weird waveforms, but it seems to work well with anything like a clock/square.

It sometimes also behaves very strangely (looped sequences disappearing) with multed/stackcabled clocks, I don't know why that is.
Peake
Wonderful news, thank you!
Navs
Tombola wrote:
(Although you'd find it a lot easier to paint the infill *before* peeling off the masking tape!)


Yeah, I did think about that, but impatience got the better of me lol That said, I might try Matthias Fonik's method of using crayons to infill. The unwanted residue can be wiped off.

Tombola wrote:
...behaves very strangely (looped sequences disappearing) with multed/stackcabled clocks ..


Bitsy does this too, usually when the stack/ mult connection is made. I have a feeling it's the 4015 getting reset due to the short.
Navs
Two questions before I pack away the parts:

I used a green LED. Is the 330r network still ok?

Can someone explain if there's a reason I shouldn't have subbed the polyboxes C10 & 11 for ceramics? How might they affect performance in the Turing Machine and, for that matter, in other modules?
sduck
Navs wrote:

I used a green LED. Is the 330r network still ok?



Depends on what kind of led you used and how bright you want it. There are green leds and GREEN ones. Most of them are fairly dull, so you'll probably be alright with the 330R. If it's too bright with the leds you have you could change the network to a 1K one or higher. If they're too dull you'd probably be better off subbing a brighter led than going for a lower network value - it's really low as it is.
Navs
Ta. It's the green version of the Kingbright DC10.

As you can see in the pic above, it's not too 'king bright, so I hope it's ok wink
Tombola
When I was prototyping, I had just the 330 resistor network going straight to ground. It was fine, but the current draw of the circuit seemed quite high. So I added another resistor (r19, 560 ohms) after the network. Thats why r13, which is an extra current protection resistor ( 9 x LEDs, 8x resistors in the network) is 820ohms, as close as I had to 330+560.

If you wanted your LEDs brighter, you could bridge or reduce r19, and reduce r13 accordingly, so all the LEDs are the same brightness.

But - obviously - that would cause current draw to rise.
diablojoy
Hi Tom
could you repost the schematic please
I cant for the life of me read the pdf version off the site
the rest of the documentation is fine just the schematic

cheers
denis
Tombola
There's a link to a big png of the schematic here : http://musicthing.co.uk/modular/?page_id=21

It's not very tidy, I'm afraid
HueMonContact
Trouble shooting time...

I just finished building a RLS and I powered it up (no magic smoke Woohoo!) and inserted a clock (NoiseRing) and the first light of the LED bar of the RLS far left blinks in unison with my Noisering but the module does not seem to be functioning properly. I can supply pictures if needed.

Thanks in advance for any help or tips.
ultrashock
some bump after quick styding of schematic
C6 el.capacitor (bottom left) should be reversed in polarity.
in fact, it should blow (didn't yet? hihi)
Tombola
HueMonContact wrote:
Trouble shooting time...

I just finished building a RLS and I powered it up (no magic smoke Woohoo!) and inserted a clock (NoiseRing) and the first light of the LED bar of the RLS far left blinks in unison with my Noisering but the module does not seem to be functioning properly. I can supply pictures if needed.

Thanks in advance for any help or tips.


Well, that shows that power is coming in OK, and that the TL072 chip is working.

Are you getting white noise at the noise output?

Do any of the other lights come on?

Some large photos of my boards:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/71172892@N00/7279785808/sizes/o/in/photos tream/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/71172892@N00/7279794246/sizes/o/in/photos tream/
Tombola
ultrashock wrote:
some bumb after quick styding of schematic
C6 el.capacitor (bottom left) should be reversed in polarity.
in fact, it should blow (didn't yet? hihi)


Oh dear, I think you are right.

very frustrating

I'm not sure how at least three of these modules (I have two, Navs has one) have been built and work fine with that mistake in place.

If a second pair of eyes could confirm, I'll update the documentation.

How annoying.
HueMonContact
Tombola wrote:
HueMonContact wrote:
Trouble shooting time...

I just finished building a RLS and I powered it up (no magic smoke Woohoo!) and inserted a clock (NoiseRing) and the first light of the LED bar of the RLS far left blinks in unison with my Noisering but the module does not seem to be functioning properly. I can supply pictures if needed.

Thanks in advance for any help or tips.


Well, that shows that power is coming in OK, and that the TL072 chip is working.

Are you getting white noise at the noise output?

Do any of the other lights come on?


Yep, I'm hearing white noise but the only light that I see working is the far left light of the led bar... it blinks in time with the clock signal.
Tombola
HueMonContact wrote:


Yep, I'm hearing white noise but the only light that I see working is the far left light of the led bar... it blinks in time with the clock signal.


OK, so the TL074 is also working.

Assuming you've played with the main knob - it should be in the middle for anything to happen - if it is at 5pm, you won't see anything, as no randomisation is happening.

Have you checked that all the other ICs are in the right sockets, oriented correctly and seated properly, and the transistors properly oriented with the silkscreen? I've had issues with 4015s, but that is a specific error - the looping doesn't work - you would still see flashing lights.
HueMonContact
Tombola wrote:
HueMonContact wrote:


Yep, I'm hearing white noise but the only light that I see working is the far left light of the led bar... it blinks in time with the clock signal.


OK, so the TL074 is also working.

Assuming you've played with the main knob - it should be in the middle for anything to happen - if it is at 5pm, you won't see anything, as no randomisation is happening.

Have you checked that all the other ICs are in the right sockets, oriented correctly and seated properly, and the transistors properly oriented with the silkscreen? I've had issues with 4015s, but that is a specific error - the looping doesn't work - you would still see flashing lights.


Everything seems to be working as it should except the LED bar is not flashing from left to right. I'll double check the ICs etc.
sduck
maybe your resistor network is in backwards? Or you got the wrong kind?
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