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I'd like to build an inverter...
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Author I'd like to build an inverter...
daverj
Vintage Video Wiggler


Joined: 19 Jun 2009
Last Visit: 19 Jun 2013

Posts: 4976

PostPosted: Wed Aug 12, 2009 9:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

A few thoughts:

Inputs to op amps are more sensitive to noise and inductance than the outputs. If you are going to stand resistors up you should reverse the direction of R1, R3, R5, and R6 so their bodies are connected to the inputs of the chip and their leads that are up in the air are facing away from the inputs.

Move R1 and R3 closer to the chip so there isn't so much copper trace between the chip and the resistors. R2 and R4 placement is not critical. They can go wherever they fit.

The ceramic bypass caps should be as close as possible to the chip. The electrolytics and 10 ohms are not so critical placement. They can be further away than the ceramics and other parts.

The ground connection for the ceramic cap going to pin 8 should be short and direct to the ground connection of the ceramic cap going to pin 4.
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DGTom
Super Deluxe Wiggler


Joined: 19 Aug 2008
Last Visit: 28 May 2013

Posts: 2627
Location: Pt.Adelaide, Sth.Aust.

PostPosted: Wed Aug 12, 2009 9:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

woah this thread keeps on giving!

Great tips thanks! I wasn't aware of the critical nature of placing upright resistors.

I always put the electro/10ohms right next to the power connector as every synth PCB I've seen does this.

Thanks again grin
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daverj
Vintage Video Wiggler


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 12, 2009 9:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

The ceramic caps pass high frequencies much better than electrolytics, which is why the ceramics need to be as close as possible to the chips. They kill spikes and oscillations. The electrolytics pass the medium and low frequencies which the ceramics don't, so their placement is less critical. They kill ripple.

The resistor gives isolation from the power supply and helps the caps to act as low pass filters.

If there is only one 10 ohm and electrolytic for the whole board, and there are multiple chips, then the resistor and electrolytic would go by the power connector and each chip would have the ceramics right at the chips. If there's only one chip on the board, then might as well put them closer to the chip.

Another school of thought is to put a ceramic, electrolytic, and resistor at each chip. In that case they would all be near their chips. In general that is overkill, except on some really noisy chips or chips very sensitive to power noise. Most op amps aren't so sensitive to power supply noise, so one set of electrolytics and resistors for the whole board is usually fine (maybe more electrolytics if the board is large).

If a chip draws a lot of fluctuating current, then having it's own electrolytic (in addition to the ceramic) is a good idea.
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Funky40
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Joined: 17 Nov 2008
Last Visit: 19 Jun 2013

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 13, 2009 11:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

it was just a first try with lochmaster, and the first try with a stripboard layout


daverj wrote:
A few thoughts:

Inputs to op amps are more sensitive to noise and inductance than the outputs. If you are going to stand resistors up you should reverse the direction of R1, R3, R5, and R6 so their bodies are connected to the inputs of the chip and their leads that are up in the air are facing away from the inputs.

Move R1 and R3 closer to the chip so there isn't so much copper trace between the chip and the resistors. R2 and R4 placement is not critical. They can go wherever they fit.

The ceramic bypass caps should be as close as possible to the chip. The electrolytics and 10 ohms are not so critical placement. They can be further away than the ceramics and other parts.

The ground connection for the ceramic cap going to pin 8 should be short and direct to the ground connection of the ceramic cap going to pin 4.


thank you, this all is very interesting !
must ask more in a own thread




For me it's time to know more, and i'm thankful for those tipps,
but for beginners who maybe just got the lust to solder something simple i guess it could be better to keep things as simple as possible.
it might make the difference if a beginner solder something or if not


my very first DIY module was a quad gainstage.
no decoupling nowwhere.
even the board is not attached to anything, just taped that no short can happen.
That module was in use till some Days ago.
This things work also in all unperfectness.......................
for very first DIy tests the simple is ok.
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DGTom
Super Deluxe Wiggler


Joined: 19 Aug 2008
Last Visit: 28 May 2013

Posts: 2627
Location: Pt.Adelaide, Sth.Aust.

PostPosted: Thu Aug 13, 2009 9:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

hihi yeah heaps of my DIY modules have no de-coupling & prob. break every rule daverj has outlined. To begin with its just fun to get something working & play around, I think its a good idea to know, even just in theory many of the rules, even if you don't understand them or always use them

vital knowledge when, at some point, things start misbehaving!

hey Funky, maybe we should have a Lochmaster thread to swap tips & tricks etc. I've found it very usefull in getting cleaner & faster protoboard builds up & running grin

very cool little app.
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daverj
Vintage Video Wiggler


Joined: 19 Jun 2009
Last Visit: 19 Jun 2013

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 14, 2009 2:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

I wasn't trying to say things won't work if you don't follow layout rules. Lots of circuits work great without any care for the rules.

But at least being aware of them removes some of the "black magic" that confuses people when they get noise or crosstalk they didn't want.

Understanding them even helps when you do want extra noise and crosstalk.
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Moog$FooL$
Broke Dick Dog


Joined: 03 Jun 2008
Last Visit: 19 Jun 2013

Posts: 1238
Location: Vancouver, BC.

PostPosted: Fri Aug 14, 2009 3:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

daverj wrote:
I wasn't trying to say things won't work if you don't follow layout rules. Lots of circuits work great without any care for the rules.

But at least being aware of them removes some of the "black magic" that confuses people when they get noise or crosstalk they didn't want.

Understanding them even helps when you do want extra noise and crosstalk.


for sure!!! this is true & valid.

like i said before this is a great thread for me. just like a lot of the info. on this site.

thank you to everyone involved in this thread; no need for anyone to defend his or her's input..... it's all valid & very useful. Soapbox
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wetterberg
Super Deluxe Wiggler


Joined: 24 Jul 2008
Last Visit: 16 Mar 2013

Posts: 7656
Location: Copenhagen, Denmark.

PostPosted: Fri Aug 14, 2009 6:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

"I'd like to build an inverter..."
"Oh no you wouldn't!"


- ahem, sorry, lame joke wink
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Funky40
Super Deluxe Wiggler


Joined: 17 Nov 2008
Last Visit: 19 Jun 2013

Posts: 1716

PostPosted: Sat Aug 15, 2009 12:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

DGTom wrote:


hey Funky, maybe we should have a Lochmaster thread to swap tips & tricks etc. I've found it very usefull in getting cleaner & faster protoboard builds up & running grin

very cool little app.

yup.
But i wont do much, but i guess i must try to layout an LPG lol
but don't expect that i build any.
i was not that sucessfull with my protoboard builds (hides)


have also a 15V to 12V conversion, but i fear also without decoupling oops
in winter i can draw a bit
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SOFTWIRE
Wiggling with Experience


Joined: 06 Jul 2009
Last Visit: 07 Jun 2013

Posts: 311
Location: Salt Lake City

PostPosted: Tue Oct 06, 2009 8:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

so can someone tell me the difference from the 4069 inverter and the 40106 schmitt trigger inverter or can they be used interchangably?(not the chip itself, just the function)
Thanks
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DGTom
Super Deluxe Wiggler


Joined: 19 Aug 2008
Last Visit: 28 May 2013

Posts: 2627
Location: Pt.Adelaide, Sth.Aust.

PostPosted: Tue Oct 06, 2009 8:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

As I understand it.

The 4069 is *just* an inverter whereas the 40106 is a little 'smarter'

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Schmitt_trigger

I think its actually 3 inverters + the schmitt, so the output is really, really square. I have read of people having problems with the 4069 as a standard inverter w/ less than clean input signals.

the 4069 makes a great fuzzbox tho & as I've found out, a great (albeit crunchy) low pass gate!!
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SOFTWIRE
Wiggling with Experience


Joined: 06 Jul 2009
Last Visit: 07 Jun 2013

Posts: 311
Location: Salt Lake City

PostPosted: Tue Oct 06, 2009 9:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

thanks it makes alot more sense now.
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frijitz
Super Deluxe Wiggler


Joined: 31 Aug 2009
Last Visit: 17 Jun 2013

Posts: 1100

PostPosted: Tue Oct 06, 2009 9:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

daverj wrote:
A few thoughts:

Inputs to op amps are more sensitive to noise and inductance than the outputs. If you are going to stand resistors up you should reverse the direction of R1, R3, R5, and R6 so their bodies are connected to the inputs of the chip and their leads that are up in the air are facing away from the inputs.

Move R1 and R3 closer to the chip so there isn't so much copper trace between the chip and the resistors. R2 and R4 placement is not critical. They can go wherever they fit.

The ceramic bypass caps should be as close as possible to the chip. The electrolytics and 10 ohms are not so critical placement. They can be further away than the ceramics and other parts.

The ground connection for the ceramic cap going to pin 8 should be short and direct to the ground connection of the ceramic cap going to pin 4.

Ooops! I'm going to have to redo every module I've ever built. waah

grin

Ian
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