Minifooger w/ Boss PSA? Also: Modding MF Drive

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Demi Jon
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Minifooger w/ Boss PSA? Also: Modding MF Drive

Post by Demi Jon » Thu Jan 09, 2014 5:18 pm

Hi all -- considering getting the Minifooger Drive pedal (wah plus overdrive yeeeeah), but hate batteries and multiple wall warts.

Has anyone tried a standard Boss pedal PSA with one of these? Would love to be able to daisy chain it with my old Boss DM-3. Not only is it one less power supply on the multi-box, but the DM-3 actually responds better to being daisy-chained than all lonely on a modern Boss PSA. The DM-3 requires the old Boss ACA adapter and here's the blah-blah why PSA daisy-chaining is good for it:
bossarea.com wrote:Powering ACA pedals with a PSA power supply
Powering the older pedals designed for 12V DC input with either a newer ACA or PSA adapter will not work very well. The voltage drop over the resistor and diode will prevent the pedal from getting enough power and its LED will usually only glow faintly. The solution is to use a daisy chain and plug in another pedal designed for the newer ACA or PSA adapter. The lead between the two pedals will short the resistor diode pair and the pedal will receive full power.
I sold almost all my pedals (just keeping the DM-3 and Pigtronix Philosopher's Tone) a few years back to fund the initial foray into modular, but miss having wah and overdrive would be welcome too.

So yeah, will the PSA barrel fit in the MF, and is the polarity proper etc.?

*edited subject to include thread evolution
Last edited by Demi Jon on Tue Apr 18, 2017 1:16 am, edited 1 time in total.

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EMwhite
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Post by EMwhite » Thu Jan 09, 2014 6:21 pm

Proper polarity yes. I'm powering a MF-Drive from Voodoo ISO 5+ so yes. Old/full sized MoogerFoogers no, but Minis a-ok. Depending on what you are daisy chaining with, be sure to check mA power requirements (they are documented on Moog site and elsewhere).
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Demi Jon
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Post by Demi Jon » Tue Jan 14, 2014 4:02 am

Thanks mate -- reckon I might have to get one of these eh!

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Hermetech Mastering
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Post by Hermetech Mastering » Tue May 27, 2014 3:44 am

I'm using a modern Boss PSA for my Minifooger Drive, works perfectly!

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MindMachine
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Post by MindMachine » Fri May 30, 2014 11:46 pm

Are you guys using the Drive on synths or keyboards or guitars? It is on my list to consider.
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Post by Hermetech Mastering » Mon Jun 02, 2014 4:18 pm

Guitar only here. I'd suggest a Reamp/DI Loop if you want to use it with mixer sends and returns or modulars.

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Demi Jon
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Post by Demi Jon » Thu Jan 12, 2017 11:42 pm

...and almost exactly three years to the day later, I finally bought an MF Drive! :hihi:

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MindMachine
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Post by MindMachine » Sat Jan 14, 2017 11:21 pm

Demi Jon wrote:...and almost exactly three years to the day later, I finally bought an MF Drive! :hihi:
Perfect end to the thread.

Aw fuck I ruined it.

(I still don't have one :oops: )

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Post by Hermetech Mastering » Sun Jan 15, 2017 4:34 am

Mine sat in a drawer for three years but just got pulled out yesterday due to this thread necromancy. It is AMAZING!!!!!!!! I bought it for the Moog filter sound, but that was never really enough on its own, with just two switchable resonance amounts, but I really dug in to the overdrive possibilities yesterday and it blew me away, so harmonically rich, with note definition staying very clear. Definite winner, now to plug the expression pedal in and go wild. Thinking about picking up the Delay too...

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controlFreak
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Post by controlFreak » Sat Mar 11, 2017 11:41 am

You can mod it with a pot! 100k -200k C taper works best. Just desolder the switch and the resistors the switch is switching, put the pot there instead.

Then you can push the filter into self oscillation. :sb:

:bananaguitar: :goo: :lock:

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Post by Hermetech Mastering » Sat Mar 11, 2017 12:51 pm

Ooh, very cool idea, if I had drill! :miley: Or is the switch hole the right size already?

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controlFreak
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Post by controlFreak » Mon Mar 13, 2017 3:21 pm

I believe its the right size already

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Hermetech Mastering
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Post by Hermetech Mastering » Mon Mar 13, 2017 3:36 pm

Ah then that's frickin rad, got a link on how to do it?

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Demi Jon
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Post by Demi Jon » Tue Mar 14, 2017 1:54 pm

Hermetech Mastering wrote:got a link on how to do it?
Yes, please! Very interested as well.

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controlFreak
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Post by controlFreak » Sat Apr 01, 2017 3:50 pm

this is the link!!!

I had pics on my phone but they were deleted on a recent update :bang:


Seriously though if you have an iota of mechanical/electronic inclination, its not that hard.

Just take your time opening it up and take both PCBS out... you will likely have to replace all of the ribbon cable connections because the chinese ribbon connectors moog uses are junk and break as soon as you bend them!

Desolder the "peak" switch... take note of the SMD resistors connected to the switch pads and desolder those as well.

Solder a 100k to 200k C taper pot in where the switch was. standard Alpha 16mm will fit.

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Post by Hermetech Mastering » Sat Apr 01, 2017 4:00 pm

Cheers, where is the link though?

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controlFreak
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Post by controlFreak » Sat Apr 01, 2017 4:09 pm

Oh and Boss power is fine for most of the minifoogers just NOT THE DELAY!!!!


The delay can not be overvoltaged or it will blow a protection component

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controlFreak
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Post by controlFreak » Sat Apr 01, 2017 4:10 pm

Hermetech Mastering wrote:Cheers, where is the link though?
there is no link I'm posting whats I can tho.

For resonance control:
-Void your warranty. Deconstruct your 'fooger and take care when bending the ribbon wires... they may break. Have ready about 20 wires cut at 1.5 inches, stripped and tinned. This way you can quickly replace the ribbon cable if need be and not be heartbroken for too long. Desoldering tools and solderwick help. Take note of how you took it apart so you can get it all back together when you're done.

-Wire a 100K to 200K C taper Pot as a variable resistor so minimum resistance is fully clockwise. 16mm Alpha pots work fine, No drill needed, just use and xacto or razor to enlarge hole on the aluminum overlay.

-Test to with DMM to see which switch pins show continuity when the "peak" switch is engaged (UP). (probably the bottom two)

-Solder Pot in to PCB holes where the switch has been removed. Connect pot to the same switch pins that previously tested for continuity with the "peak" switch engaged.
-Alternatively, you can also solder the Pot to TP2 and TP3. Either way orientation does not matter as variable resistors are non polar. just stick the two wires in and solder em any old way.

-Remove R26

-Remove R27 also, if you're nit picky about minimum resonance being absolutely minimal.

*you're done! now just re-assemble and jam out!*


*Bonus Fun Mod*
C35 is a "no-pop" component on the PCB, it bypasses the source resistor of the overdrive circuit's crucial FET "Q13" wired as standard Class A boost, being driven by OTA -> filter -> tone control -> FET.

Experiment w .47uF to 100uF for treble boost to warm fuzzy bass boost.
Last edited by controlFreak on Mon Apr 17, 2017 11:40 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Post by Animalbeats » Mon Apr 17, 2017 3:20 pm

I dearly love my Minifooger Drive muchly!, but I'd love to hear this mod and any reports on completing it as I'm just entering the world or electronics.

I take it the functionality of the Peak switch just becomes another point on the Potentiometer and no actual sounds/functionality is lost?

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Post by controlFreak » Mon Apr 17, 2017 11:38 pm

I'd love to hear this mod and any reports on completing it as I'm just entering the world or electronics.

I take it the functionality of the Peak switch just becomes another point on the Potentiometer and no actual sounds/functionality is lost?
Correct. The pot only adds functionality. Filter will now feedback and oscillate at extreme settings, you can use a resistor in line with the pot to limit this if it is undesired.

And this is verified and will work. did it to mine.

Only requires removal of one SMT component (R26) Which is 20k ohms the minimum resistance of the "peak" setting. Using a C taper pot You can push it a bit further beyond the previous "peak" into funkytown.

R27(2.2M) is also connecting TP2 and TP3 as the "zero" resonance setting. It may be good to remove as well since 100K or 200k is now in parallel and quite a bit smaller. I cannot hear any extra resonance added by this change. You could always use a 1M C pot.


*Unverified:
It looks like it would be easy to add CV resonance control... tap it into TP2- it connects both gates of two transistors controlling filter feedback. TP 3 connects to the pedal's 9v rail.

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Demi Jon
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Post by Demi Jon » Tue Apr 18, 2017 1:22 am

Edited thread subject to point to MF Drive modding info

Note -- the following short story depicts me attempting this mod:


:banana: :eurosmoke: :bananaguitar: :deadbanana: :ripbanana:

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Post by Hermetech Mastering » Tue Apr 18, 2017 2:24 am

Thanks for all the info! Not sure I'm ready to attempt it with mine yet though.

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Post by Animalbeats » Tue Apr 18, 2017 11:54 am

Demi Jon wrote:Edited thread subject to point to MF Drive modding info

Note -- the following short story depicts me attempting this mod:


:banana: :eurosmoke: :bananaguitar: :deadbanana: :ripbanana:
I see at the end you have died.....is that in happiness or failure...... :confused:

or perhaps it's a vision of your future.....

If or when you do please post the results :guinness:

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controlFreak
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Post by controlFreak » Wed Apr 19, 2017 2:44 pm

:nana:
Image

:bananaguitar: :goo: :goo: :goo: :goo:

:mmm:

:cgs:

Animalbeats
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Post by Animalbeats » Thu Apr 27, 2017 7:26 pm

controlFreak

Thanks for those instructions.

Why are those flick switches there?

Also, is there anything you can do to the Boost pedal?

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