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WIGGLING 'LITE' IN GUEST MODE

Plague Bearer Bare Bones Kit.....
MUFF WIGGLER Forum Index -> Flight of Harmony  
Author Plague Bearer Bare Bones Kit.....
megamouse
I was wondering if anyone had assembled their PB from scratch. I just came across the PBBP on Flight's site, and felt like I was up to the challenge. Also thinking Pro-Modular for the face plate. Any Suggestions? Any Pros/Cons?
Soy Sos
Very easy to build. As long as you can soldier jacks.
Maybe do a double......Go for it.
rezzn8r
Do it! Flight's BB Kit is super easy, as the PCB is pre-stuffed. You just need to wire it up. Flight Of Harmony Flamey
megamouse
WOOT! I've been soldering jacks since I started making circuits. Unfortunately I'm low on the old cash ATM, so no Double for now......perhaps a remounting project in the future
megamouse
Damn I forgot to ask, d'oh! does the power supply require me to solder in the pins for the connector? I'm running a Doepfer case.....
sandyb
i'll stick this in the flight of harmony forum Flight Of Harmony
flight
Thanks sandyb!

@ megamouse:
You are exactly the kind of person I designed the Barebones Packs for. smile
The PBBP includes everything in the picture below, all you need to supply is a power source and some 24-gauge wire.

Customization is also perfectly OK - different knob colors, pots loose with headers on the PCB, extra jacks, different jacks, and also a different power connector. The PCB has holes for both of the common connectors styles so a Doepfer-style header is no problem, and I can provide a Doepfer-style power cable as well.
megamouse
Quote:
The PCB has holes for both of the common connectors styles so a Doepfer-style header is no problem, and I can provide a Doepfer-style power cable as well.


Thanks for answering the question flight! Good to know the people that run these companies are as badass as their Modules! Expect an order ASAP.
megamouse
Alrighty here it is!



Just used some spare plastic around the house for the Face plate and purty paints to decorate.
Waz
It looks like a novelty cake.

Good job! Now you need 1 more for total mayhem!
flight
I love it! Good work man.
Pfurmel
Just ordered 2 of these, planning on doing a double faceplate. Can't wait!
SquidInSquidInk
I have an MW case with this weird extra panel along the bottom with holes drilled in it, as can be seen here:
http://www.bigcitymusic.com/i/cat/New/1000869_L.jpg

Someone suggested sticking a barebones PB or two in there and I'm seriously considering it. One thing I'm unsure about is how to secure the PCB so it's not just flopping around behind the panel, since I'd have to go with the unattached pots option. Any ideas?
Spanningtree
It looks like the pots are threaded. Would a thin bolt on the inside of the panel and then another one on the outside (with a small bit of torque) provide enough stability? There are 4 pots, it's seems like it would hold very well. Just mount the jacks seprately on the panel. Have not tried this before though.
SquidInSquidInk
Spanningtree wrote:
It looks like the pots are threaded. Would a thin bolt on the inside of the panel and then another one on the outside (with a small bit of torque) provide enough stability? There are 4 pots, it's seems like it would hold very well. Just mount the jacks seprately on the panel. Have not tried this before though.


I don't quite get what you're saying about the "thin bolts".

I agree that the 4 pots should hold the PCB fine, but the holes in that panel are not spaced the same as the mounted pots, so I'd have to go with the detached version of the kit.
Spanningtree
Please forgive me, I meant "nut". Drill holes in the panel that are spaced for the pot's. Thread a thin nut onto each pot, trying to keep them level to eachother (a lock washer might not be a bad addition if you move the rack often, it goes between the panel and the nut). Push the pot necks through the panel holes (from the rear of the panel), thread a nut to the front of each of the pots and tighten a bit (lock washer potential here too). Hope that came out right. confused

I am going to order a couple of these kits shortly, the price cannot be passed up and would be a fun side project.
terrafractyl
Ordered my first the other day SlayerBadger!
making a faceplate now, cant wait to put it all together.

Could anyone tell me the exact distance between the pots on the PB by any chance? then I can drill the holes n everything so its all ready to go by the time it turns up in the mail... and yes i'm excited.
Cybananna
It's on the barebones page on FOH site.

http://www.flightofharmony.com/images/PlagueBearer/PB1E_Templates.pdf
terrafractyl
sweet, dont know how i missed that!
w00t
Thanks
Cybananna
no problem. that will make it a bit easier.
flight
Thanks Cybanana!

@ terrafractyl: FYI: They're spaced 0.75" apart.
terrafractyl
just got Mine SlayerBadger!
awesome little module, i kinda knew I was going to need another one..... Confirmed!
will put a picture up later of the panel
terrafractyl


nanners
Lama
On the website it says "The PBBP contains just enough components to provide full functionality, no extras or “frills”." So... are there anything you´d miss by getting the barebone pack instead of the ordinary PB? hmmm.....
flight
Lama wrote:
On the website it says "The PBBP contains just enough components to provide full functionality, no extras or “frills”." So... are there anything you´d miss by getting the barebone pack instead of the ordinary PB? hmmm.....

It doesn't include the extra four jacks in the multiples (High, Low, Gain, Input).
megamouse
That design Rules Terrafratyl! Planning on expanding with a second PCB in the future?
terrafractyl
Thanks megamouse!

yeah reckon i'll order a second Pb and a sos Barebones pack next time i have some spare $
johnnymad
I agree! very cool design!
Lama
flight wrote:
It doesn't include the extra four jacks in the multiples (High, Low, Gain, Input).


Ah, thanks for the info.
Cat-A-Tonic
What are the details behind the 'easter egg' pads on the board?

There are 3 pads next to every pot. that seem like they might be for attenuators.

There are 4 more mysterious ones around the TL082 chip.

Is there anything else that can be brought out to the panel via these pads?
Cat-A-Tonic
Rev3.3
Are the pads around the chip for the mod. to revert back to prior versions of the Plague,
or are there some hidden I/O or switch-points that may be of interest?
Perhaps a buffer?
or points at which one might patch in an inverter for the Gain CV?
What are those aforementioned 'Easter Eggs'?
There isn't a schematic in the manual.
flight
Cat-A-Tonic wrote:
Rev3.3
Are the pads around the chip for the mod. to revert back to prior versions of the Plague,
or are there some hidden I/O or switch-points that may be of interest?
Perhaps a buffer?
or points at which one might patch in an inverter for the Gain CV?
What are those aforementioned 'Easter Eggs'?
There isn't a schematic in the manual.

Okay, okay, here's the answers:

Pads by the pots: Those are just for headers, for remote-mounting the pots or just replacing them when they wear out down the line.

Little pads by the chip: Those are just vias (a hole to connect top & bottom traces). I just didn't have them covered with soldermask.

Most of the extra pads and options were removed after the 3.1 since nobody asked about them, but you can still do a few mods as long as you're comfortable working with surface-mount components.

Gain CV: This one is easy - just invert the CV signal before it gets to the board.

Output level: The output is buffered using the second opamp of the TL082 (pins 5-7) and the two 10k resistors next to the chip (marked 1002). Looking at the picture, the input (from the output if the first opamp at pin1) resistor is above the chip, and the feedback resistor is to the right of the chip. Gain is normally 1:1.

Distortion, stability, and general gnarliness: This is controlled primarily be the resistor above and to the left of the buffer input resistor, and is marked 1214 (1.21M). This sets the upper limit to how nasty and unstable the PB can get. Increase the value for more nasty, decrease the value for less nasty.
100k is a good lower value for a clean-sounding filter. 2M+ will fuzz the fuck out of things and make it squeal like your mother did last night. A higher value = more self oscillation

As for stability, the brown chip to the left of the IC is a 10pf compensation capacitor that suppresses excessive oscillation. You could replace this with a variable capacitor or just remove it.

It's been a while since I've contemplated the PB circuit so I can't recall all the options, but I'll try to post more when I do remember.
Cat-A-Tonic
Thanks for the detailed information Flight. Coffee Addiction FTW
If you think of more later, please post.
I'm not scared of SMT.

I had room on my panel, so I decided to add a passive attenuator.
It may get normalled to something down the line...
I figured it might be useful between the output & input for variable feedback,
or at one of the CV inputs.
flight
You're welcome!
The input attenuator is an excellent idea. Another approach is to change the input pot to a 1M or higher - I actually did this with the 3.1, but it changed the sound quality enough (less aggressive) for me to receive a few questioning emails that I changed it back to 100k.

One former easter egg was the gain CV, really. On the first run of the 3.1, there was no jack for the Gain CV - a pretty big easter egg! Then I realized I was being stupid and put a jack on the panel.

Another easter egg is only present on the 3.1. Looking at the 3.3 picture you posted, the small black chip with three leads, right above the compensation cap, is a transistor. The 3.1 had two transistors there - one NPN, one PNP. These process the Gain CV. The NPN handles positive CV, the PNP handles negative CV, which are not commonly used. The pair made for very interesting tonal character when modulating the gain with a bipolar signal, especially since I didn't bother biasing the bases exactly to zero volts, giving them an interesting crossover effect.
Cat-A-Tonic
Should the ground lugs of the High and Low jacks be wired to ground,
or are they intentionally floating?

I didn't see this connection mentioned in the manual.
Cat-A-Tonic
Cat-A-Tonic wrote:
Should the ground lugs of the High and Low jacks be wired to ground,
or are they intentionally floating?

I went ahead and wired them to ground.
All works fine. A new Plague is born.
flight
Sorry to take so long.

Jack grounds: Grounding is OK. I left them floating on the modules because of the multiples, but either way works for the Barebones.
DGTom
Sweet PB cat-a-tonic SlayerBadger!
in such good company as well!

I need me some Gain Plague Flamey


is that metal stamped lettering + paint in-fill?
Cat-A-Tonic
DGTom wrote:
Sweet PB cat-a-tonic SlayerBadger! javascript:bbstyle(-1)
in such good company as well!

I need me some Gain Plague Flamey

is that metal stamped lettering + paint in-fill?

Thanks DGTom,
and yes it's steel hand-stamped lettering with Lacquer Stik fill-in paint.

I was inspired by Sduck for the fill-in paint,
and I think it was the Bad Producer who inspired the hand-stamped lettering with his medical-green Mankato.

This Plague Bearer has a twin on the way.

The inverted Gain CV is lots of fun.

The bottom knob and pair of jacks is a passive attenuator.
It does come in handy for fine tuning the input level & CVs of course.
This thing is made of sweet spots. Turn on, tune in, and get infected. zombie

Thanks for the confirmation Flight.
I suspected that the floating grounds had something to do with multing the inputs.
Does that mean multing the inputs (as opposed to mixing) is a no no when the jacks are grounded?
flight
You can ground & mult if you ground the switch of jack 1 and connect the tip of jack 1 to the switch of jack 2 and the PCB input connection. Just make sure you plug into jack 1 first when using it. Otherwise you are just plugging your signal into ground.
The_Crooked_Man
Any idea when the barebones PB's are going to be back in stock?
mckenic
I guess he must be super busy...

I know I have paypal credit burning a hole waiting for PB, SoS and V-Amp kits smile It really is burning a hole tho and I need a VCA or two!
flight
mckenic wrote:
I guess he must be super busy...

Dude, you have no idea! That was a freaking marathon.

The_Crooked_Man wrote:
Any idea when the barebones PB's are going to be back in stock?

Right about... now. wink
mckenic
Sweet!!!

You deserve a Guinness ftw! !

I forgot to tell you who I was when I emailed you! Im the little guy from Ireland!

Looking forward to getting some kits - thanks man!

Dave
flight
mckenic wrote:
Sweet!!!

You deserve a Guinness ftw! !

I forgot to tell you who I was when I emailed you! Im the little guy from Ireland!

Looking forward to getting some kits - thanks man!

Dave

Hey Dave, thanks for the Guinness! (love that stuff)
I'm working on your order right now, so you should see it soon. smile
negativspace
Speaking of the kits, I finally got around to painting up my dual panel this week. It didn't come out quite as 'nasty' as I originally had in mind, but it looks great in the green minicase, so I think I'm just gonna go with it. In fact, I could stick another one of these in there and have a DIY standalone quad. MY ASS IS BLEEDING

(In fact... this is only 12hp wide, so in the 28hp case I'd even have 4 free for some mults. Or a ringmod. Or both!)




As you might guess by the second photo the output of the first is normalled to the input of the second.
flight
I like it, nice work!
negativspace wrote:
...(In fact... this is only 12hp wide, so in the 28hp case I'd even have 4 free for some mults. Or a ringmod. Or both!)...

Perhaps a V'Amp barebones might work well there... wink
negativspace
Thanks. SlayerBadger!

This is an old 28hp minicase, not one of the new(er) 32s. I would have to squeeeeeeeze that V'Amp from 8hp to 4. Looking at it, that means losing the multed jacks plus either 2 pots or 1 pot and a jack. Still, I might be able to pull it off. Sure would be a perfect complement...
mckenic
Thanks a MILLION Flight - my kits arrived safe and sound this morning! we're not worthy

Sorry if this is covered a million times before - and I know DIY means DIY but if I could confirm a few things please...

Main thing - what is the switch (on the jack) for and what do I wire it up to please? seriously, i just don't get it

Ive gotten 4 extra jacks to wire-up the multis - I just connect tip to tip right?

I can run all the grounds together - one wire around all the 9 jacks and then into say one of the center holes of the Dopfer power area? Im only going to use one set of 5 header pins of the Dopfer connector as the other 4 wire connector kinda covers the holes. I can ignore the ground on the IN, OUT and GAIN CV headers then right?

Sorry for the questions - Im kinda coming at DIY sideways - dont have the basic knowledge, never studied electronics but Im enthusiastic and built an Arduinome and a SammichSid Mr. Green

Again - THANK YOU so much Filght! REALLY excited!
Dave
flight
mckenic wrote:
Thanks a MILLION Flight - my kits arrived safe and sound this morning! we're not worthy

You are quite welcome Sir!
Quote:
Sorry if this is covered a million times before - and I know DIY means DIY but if I could confirm a few things please...

Remember: DIY means Do It Yourself, not FIOY (Figure It Out Yourself)
Quote:
Main thing - what is the switch (on the jack) for and what do I wire it up to please? seriously, i just don't get it

Absolutely nothing! The switch is completely ignored. It's just easier & cheaper to have one standardized jack type, than having multiple specialized ones.
Quote:
Ive gotten 4 extra jacks to wire-up the multis - I just connect tip to tip right?

Yup. And don't use the switch if you're wiring them as mulitples.
Quote:
I can run all the grounds together - one wire around all the 9 jacks and then into say one of the center holes of the Dopfer power area? Im only going to use one set of 5 header pins of the Dopfer connector as the other 4 wire connector kinda covers the holes. I can ignore the ground on the IN, OUT and GAIN CV headers then right?

You can do that, or you can use one of the ground wires from one those headers instead and avoid having to solder to the PCB. The module actually has the grounds of IN, HIGH, LOW, and GAIN connected to the IN header, and the ground of the OUT jack to the OUT header. I do this to avoid any signal coupling via common ground.
Quote:
Sorry for the questions - Im kinda coming at DIY sideways - dont have the basic knowledge, never studied electronics but Im enthusiastic and built an Arduinome and a SammichSid Mr. Green

Again - THANK YOU so much Filght! REALLY excited!
Dave
Never apologize for asking. We all have to start somewhere, and we all learn in different ways. Save your apologies for the mess you make when you don't ask first.
mckenic
Ho - Lee - Sheet! woah

Flight - thank you so much for your patience and encouragement! It really is appreciated and very, very welcome! thumbs up Thank you very much!

So I wired up my Plague Bearer today with the below wiring connected to the ground from the IN header...

I dont have a lot of modules (and about 10 leads) but I played with the Plague Bearer, A-110, Doepfer multiple, SN-NZ and an A-145 for a bit.

4 hours later I was getting cramps in my face from smiling so much! WOW, WOW, WOW! I cant believe how insane Plague Bearer is - you really cant tame it and it will NOT play quietly in the corner! I had HIGH at 9 o clock, Low at 12, the lfo clocking the GAIN and riding the INPUT LEVEL manually. The INPUT LEVEL was doing insane things to the sound! One of the PBs audio outputs was going into the PITCH of the A-110 and a noise randomly resetting the lfo...

I'll be very honest Flight - the reason I got into modulars this summer was to get an Atari POKEY, a Plague Bearer and WMD Geiger Counter to process my drum loops. Today was a eureka moment like the first time I put a guitar thru digital delay or hearing Aphex Twin Window Licker for the first time and I cant thank you enough for making something thats this much fun... Not 100% sure I know what Im doing but fuck! Im enjoying the ride so far.

Im scared that I might explode when I get the V'Amp and SOS soldered up!

Thanks mate!
mckenic
Oh and!

Love the jacks - mine dont have that excellent spring!
When I was using my multimeter to do a contunity test on the PBBBP, I'd turn it on and the readout would quickly flash 6.66... never did that before hihi
flight
mckenic wrote:
Ho - Lee - Sheet! woah

Flight - thank you so much for your patience and encouragement! It really is appreciated and very, very welcome! thumbs up Thank you very much!
You are most welcome Sir, just doing my job. The more you know, the more you will enjoy making music.
Quote:

...

4 hours later I was getting cramps in my face from smiling so much! WOW, WOW, WOW! I cant believe how insane Plague Bearer is - you really cant tame it and it will NOT play quietly in the corner! I had HIGH at 9 o clock, Low at 12, the lfo clocking the GAIN and riding the INPUT LEVEL manually. The INPUT LEVEL was doing insane things to the sound! One of the PBs audio outputs was going into the PITCH of the A-110 and a noise randomly resetting the lfo...

I'll be very honest Flight - the reason I got into modulars this summer was to get an Atari POKEY, a Plague Bearer and WMD Geiger Counter to process my drum loops. Today was a eureka moment like the first time I put a guitar thru digital delay or hearing Aphex Twin Window Licker for the first time and I cant thank you enough for making something thats this much fun... Not 100% sure I know what Im doing but fuck! Im enjoying the ride so far.

LOL, that is awesome: another happily infected customer! This is exactly the reason I keep the prices on the Plague Bearer so low; it is just too damn much fun to use! I want as many people as possible to have a chance to use one (or more), even if it means I don't actually make a profit on them. smile
Quote:
Im scared that I might explode when I get the V'Amp and SOS soldered up!

Thanks mate!

Not a problem, it was my pleasure to share. As for the V'Amp and SoS, the V'Amp is much more subtle and tricky to use, but well worth it once you've spent some serious time experimenting. The SoS, however, is going to blow you right the f*ck away. Like all of my products, the actual worth of the SoS takes some time and dedication to reveal, but oh is it in there!

mckenic wrote:
Oh and!

Love the jacks - mine dont have that excellent spring!
When I was using my multimeter to do a contunity test on the PBBBP, I'd turn it on and the readout would quickly flash 6.66... never did that before hihi
Flamey
Luka
Got a quick (simple maybe) question
since i have no schematic i cant confirm so..

i am putting my PB as an effect into my mb808. i only have room for 3 pots so i am thinking of leaving out the PB signal input pot.

i plan on putting a mixer before it and sending channels from my drums to the mixer which feeds the PB. each drum channel has a output attenuator.

you get a wide range of sounds by varying the input signal so i am wondering if this situation will have the same result.
flight
Luka wrote:
Got a quick (simple maybe) question
since i have no schematic i cant confirm so..

i am putting my PB as an effect into my mb808. i only have room for 3 pots so i am thinking of leaving out the PB signal input pot.

i plan on putting a mixer before it and sending channels from my drums to the mixer which feeds the PB. each drum channel has a output attenuator.

you get a wide range of sounds by varying the input signal so i am wondering if this situation will have the same result.

It won't be the same, but it ought to be close enough. Dive it a shot and let us know!
Luka
would i be better not using a mixer?

all the signals are coming direct from buffers so they should have similar output impedances
flight
Luka wrote:
would i be better not using a mixer?

all the signals are coming direct from buffers so they should have similar output impedances
That depends on the signal level put out by the buffers. The PB works best with low-level signals (≤200mVp-p) so, if the output is modular-level, you'll need the mixer to prevent overdriving the PB input.
Luka
hmm ok

perhaps ill try put a trimmer on the circuit

thanks
flight
If there's only room for three of the original 16mm pots, what about using 12mm or 9mm pots with smaller knobs? You might be able to squeeze them all in that way. I can check and see if I have all the values in my scavenged parts hoard.
Luka
all the pots on the mb808 board are pcb mount.
they included an aux section for mods which has 6 mounting points for pots.
i want 3 for my delay and 3 for the PB.



i thought about a chunk out of the pcb which would leave enough space so either mount the pots to the front panel or add a new pcb there but it all just gets complicated. it is right next to the psu so i dont want to stress it out too much and i probably would end up severing something by mistake

pcb mounted pots really bites you in the ass sometimes
i could get smaller pots and panel mount but then it gets tricky when you have to open up the case
flight
Ah, gotcha. I thought you might be squeezing the PBBP in some open space or something.

So you're gonna have to desolder the existing pots?
Luka
yup i will desolder the pots on the PB
(ill probably snip them off then desolder the remaining legs)
flight
Do whatcha gotta do my friend.
active
just got this pieced together along with the POWER barebones kit. i'm waiting for a distro board to arrive, but in the meantime, is there a easy way to just wire the POWER module directly to the PB or is it likely that i'll over cook something?
Luka
hey flight i just wired up my 2nd PB into my modular and im observing 20VPP signals at the output. your website says 10VPP so im wondering what i have done to make this happen.

when installing i replaces all the pots and ripped out all the connectors and wired it all up. also im using bananas so there is no ground with each signal or control cable (but i tested with an internal ground bus between vco > pb)

no shorts as far as i can see
im pretty sure i used the same pot values but id need to pull them off the panel to check

any ideas?
flight
active wrote:
just got this pieced together along with the POWER barebones kit. i'm waiting for a distro board to arrive, but in the meantime, is there a easy way to just wire the POWER module directly to the PB or is it likely that i'll over cook something?
Here's one way:

Replace the Doepfer-style cable with the 4-pin MOTM, if that's what you have.
No need to worry about overpowering anything; they will only draw the current that they need.
Luka wrote:
hey flight i just wired up my 2nd PB into my modular and im observing 20VPP signals at the output. your website says 10VPP so im wondering what i have done to make this happen.
...
any ideas?
You haven't done anything wrong. It really depends on how strong of a input signal is used and how high you crank the gain. There is no limiter on the output, so it can put out an almost rail-to-rail signal. The 10vp-p max is with "standard" operating conditions, meaning the input is not overdriven - which varies by the signal type. I just forgot to include that in the specs.
If the output is too high for your use then you're probably overdriving the input. Try pre-attenuating the signal and see what you think.
Luka
good to know
thanks man
active
i love f(h) more and more every day! super excited to get this thing cookin! thanks so much for setting that straight!
flight
You are quite welcome!
Luka
i am really surprised about how easily it is to make this module ram out super hot voltages - seems a little unsafe in modular environment especially since most people will only use modular level signals with it. even when i send my machinedrum into it i have to carefully gain stage and use input attenuation to achieve voltages within a 20VPP range

did you ever think about adding a voltage divider for the module versions of plague bearers so most 10VPP input signals are dropped down to a reasonble input range - even before the input attenuation pot?

or does that remove the ability to use it as a noise source or some other feature?
flight
Luka wrote:
i am really surprised about how easily it is to make this module ram out super hot voltages - seems a little unsafe in modular environment especially since most people will only use modular level signals with it. even when i send my machinedrum into it i have to carefully gain stage and use input attenuation to achieve voltages within a 20VPP range

did you ever think about adding a voltage divider for the module versions of plague bearers so most 10VPP input signals are dropped down to a reasonble input range - even before the input attenuation pot?

or does that remove the ability to use it as a noise source or some other feature?

These have both been a concern of mine since the beginning - both the PB's ability to be easily overdriven and the possibility of excessive output voltage. While this is the first time the output level has been brought up, overdriving the input has been the cause of many troubleshooting emails that I have received. Both will be addressed in the next revision of the PB, but I am still unsure of the exact method to use on either just yet. The main reasons these have not been done yet: 1) Cost, 2) Affect the sound, 3) Too many prior revisions of the PB in too short a span of time.

Addressed individually:
Cost:
I do not make a profit on PB items (I think I may actually lose money in some cases), and I do not intend to either. Because of its incredible range of use, I have always felt that the PB is an item that everyone should be able to enjoy. Adding any more complexity to it will make this impossible for me to afford. I had decided to design it for as wide a range of usage as possible, instead of limiting the possibilities to conform to a subset of possible uses.
Affect the sound:
With the r3.1, I changed the value of the input attenuation pot from 100k to 1M to address the problem of overdriving the input. I promptly received a number of complaints about how weak the r3.1 sounded. I then changed it back and have not heard any more about it.
A voltage divider before the input pot should work quite well without greatly affecting the tone of the unit, but I have to include a means to bypass the divider as at least 60% of current users do not have issues in this area and this would greatly alter how the PB works in their uses. While most users have the ability to pre-attenuate the input signal before the PB input, there is no way for anybody to change the signal once it is inside the unit. So doing this would require a switch or other control available on the panel, which goes back to cost.
Too many prior revisions:
I pissed off quite a few early PB users! I think I released three revisions in under six months, and earned every complaint I received. I'm taking my time on the next revision, as it will be the last functionality-addressing revision I will make.

Keep in mind that the PB was my first module design ever. I had no freaking clue how to do it, so I think it turned out pretty well, all things considered. However, I do agree that there are still a couple issues that need to be addressed, and they will be on the next revision (which I hope to have out this year). In fact, I would greatly appreciate any input that any of you may have toward this end. I know there has to be other issues that I have not heard of yet, or at least further input on how the current setup affects your usage of it. Never worry about insulting or offending me, as this is not about me. I want to make products that you enjoy, find useful, and that give you new ideas and ways of expressing yourself. So this is really about you; I work for you, so you are my boss. Let me know when I fuck up!

The constraints I am trying to keep the next revision of the PB in are:
1) Cost <US$100.00
2) 8 h.p.

The biggest change will be the elimination of any wires and converting the PB to the "sandwich" style of PCB-panel orientation. This will reduce the assembly cost significantly, which means a little added circuit complexity is doable.
The output will have some form of limiting, but not sure just what yet. Most AGC are too complex, so likely a hard limiter such as a zener clamp or similar method (maybe limiting the output amp supplies).
Also keep in mind that this is about the basic PB; the more exotic implementations will be addressed in the "Super" Plague Bearer, as discussed in the "Plague Osc" thread.
Luka
fwiw the module sounds fantastic and i woudn't want to try tame it if it is going to change the overall sound

perhaps you could set up a SMD voltage divider which you can use a jumper to select the range - either line or modular - this would only add 3 SMD resistors and pins for jumper.
Cat-A-Tonic
Here is a picture of the twins.
bluemeanie
i just got one of these.... it has the 4pin connector on it.. is the idea that i desolder this and install a 10pin idc for use with my doepfer rack?

also, is the idea with the headers for use with the jacks dont need to be soldered? just stick the cable in? when i've used these in the past the metal pin that sits inside the header comes seperate and you solder the cable to this first then stick it inside the header...

thanks
flight
bluemeanie wrote:
i just got one of these.... it has the 4pin connector on it.. is the idea that i desolder this and install a 10pin idc for use with my doepfer rack?

The simplest way to adapt it for euro use is to get a Molex (or clone) crimp-style 4-pin 0.156" connector and connect as in this picture:

Quote:
also, is the idea with the headers for use with the jacks dont need to be soldered? just stick the cable in? when i've used these in the past the metal pin that sits inside the header comes seperate and you solder the cable to this first then stick it inside the header...

thanks
The supplied connectors are IDC (Insulation Displacement Connector), and are not intended to be soldered. The wire is just pushed into the connector, which cuts through the insulation and makes contact with the copper inside. A manual that explains this should have been included with the BP, but a copy is attached just in case.
bluemeanie
cool .... i went to the shop while i was waiting..... i got a 5 pin molex type crimp thingy... guess this 'l work..

the IDC's make sense now.. thanks very much ....
bluemeanie
and i guess there's no reason why i cant go straight from the 4 pin connector on the board to the 16 pin connector on the doepfer bus..?
negativspace
For the future, or for those who have no desire to make such a cable, George Mattson sells them through his web store.
flight
bluemeanie wrote:
and i guess there's no reason why i cant go straight from the 4 pin connector on the board to the 16 pin connector on the doepfer bus..?
I'm not sure what you mean - that is what the power cable is for, right?

And, to help avoid confusion, "connector" is the name for the socket end that is attached to the wire, and "header" is the name for the group of pins on the PCB. That's the convention used by most of the interconnect manufacturers

@ negativspace I didn't know about those, thanks for the tip!
bluemeanie
haha now i'm not sure what you mean!....

seeing as the kit doesnt come with a power cable...

i was talking of making my own power cable... to go from 4pin on the board to 16 pin on the bus ......

rather than

10 pin on the board to 16 pin on the bus.....

now i'm really confused.......
flight
Ah, okay, then yes: it is perfectly fine to go from the 4-pin header to the 16-pin Doepfer bus. That is what I thought we were talking about anyway. smile

Don't bother trying to remove the 4-pin and install a 10-pin, it's a pain to do.
bluemeanie
awesome thanks

after some stuffing around with the extra pots.... here she is






pots are for the high and low cv Trampoline
felixer
modded mine with the following:
-attenuator pots for the cv inputs
-feedback pot from output->input. 50klog with 50k resistor plus a 100nF cap in series to cut down on low freq oscillations if gain is high.
-50K trimpot on output
-true bypass switch
just found out about the 'stability' option. unfortunatly my frontpanel is full now hmmm..... and i thought i had left plenty of space for extra's d'oh!
mckenic
Sorry - please ignore - I read the question again!
limpmeat


My version. Waiting on some red banana sockets and some more labelling to finish it off. Wish all DIY stuff was this easy smile
limpmeat
fixed
mckenic
SlayerBadger!

The Barer demands the spotlight!
whitewulfe
Bumping an old thread since it's kind of the same thing...

Will the bare bones kits still be available, or have they been phased out?
stromcat
whitewulfe wrote:
Will the bare bones kits still be available, or have they been phased out?


They're fully available - just received mine yesterday.
HeWhoWantsJeans
whitewulfe wrote:
Bumping an old thread since it's kind of the same thing...

Will the bare bones kits still be available, or have they been phased out?

I know they have plenty of PB kits in stock at Foxtone Music (http://www.foxtonemusic.com/).
FoxtoneMusic
BareBones versions will continue to be available for ALL Flight modules. There is some positive restructuring in regards to manufacturing/availability at the Flight headquarters over the next 60 days to make sure you guys (and gals) can get your solder covered hands on these anytime you want!
-eric
P.S. We have two PB BareBones rev4 (the newest version) left. It's looking like April until things are up to speed with Flight. Good things to come!
whitewulfe
FoxtoneMusic wrote:
BareBones versions will continue to be available for ALL Flight modules. There is some positive restructuring in regards to manufacturing/availability at the Flight headquarters over the next 60 days to make sure you guys (and gals) can get your solder covered hands on these anytime you want!
-eric
P.S. We have two PB BareBones rev4 (the newest version) left. It's looking like April until things are up to speed with Flight. Good things to come!


Great to hear! Is it possible to get them with 1/4" jacks as well, or would one have to go direct for such? As well, do you guys ship to Canada?
FoxtoneMusic
They only come with the 3.5mm (1/8") jacks. You would have to hunt down 1/4" jacks on your own, but shouldn't be too hard to find.
Hell yeah we ship to our neighbor just to the north!
papercutnoise
Is the old Bare Bones manual for the r3.3 version gone?? It had the drilling templates for the faceplates. Finally getting around to ordering some and want to send the measurements. The new manual for the r3.3 doesn't seem to have any measurements in it.
runblip
has anyone done their own panel and put in this nifty switch that comes with the kit?...i have a blank panel here i want to drill today....unsure of how to proceed to get that switch on their neatly.
FoxtoneMusic
papercutnoise,
you should hit up Kevin at flight@flightofharmony.com . If anyone would know the answers...it would be him.
Soy Sos

Here's my hackey double Plague mod. Looks crummy, but I love it that way!
Crappy double attenuator/distributor next to it is handy as well.
papercutnoise
FoxtoneMusic wrote:
papercutnoise,
you should hit up Kevin at flight@flightofharmony.com . If anyone would know the answers...it would be him.


Sorted, thanks!
papercutnoise
Soy Sos wrote:

Here's my hackey double Plague mod. Looks crummy, but I love it that way!
Crappy double attenuator/distributor next to it is handy as well.


Ooh that looks nice! I take it you left out the mults? Was gonna look at getting 2 8hp faceplates made up for my 2 PB Barebones kits, but i'd also kinda like to put 2 together in a 12 hp panel if possible. It would mean leaving out some/all of the mults though.

Would be cool to have the output of the first PB normalled to the input of the second, and I'd like to have mults on the outputs and inputs for feedback loops but not sure if I'd have enough room. Hmmmm
Soy Sos
12 hp is the minimum and it's tight. Yup, left off the mults for space reasons and it's racked next to the 138m matrix mixer and homemade attenuator/1-2 splitter, feedback loops are an option for sure. I thought about normaling out 1 to in 2 but I was in such a rush to get it going I didn't do it. My DIY shit can be very crude.
It's funny how folks on this forum are so good at their builds and it looks so super pro. My stuff looks so funky but it's fun and I like it anyway.
TestSetRadio
has anyone tried stacking two PCBs to have a dual in a single space? assuming it wouldn't be too deep to bump into the busboards, it seems with some wiring trickery and smallish knobs, this could be possible... may have to ditch the mults, or make the faceplate 2hp wider to accomodate some extra jacks.

i may have to grab a couple kits and get out the calipers.
Soy Sos
Soy Sos wrote:

Here's my hackey double Plague mod. Looks crummy, but I love it that way!
Crappy double attenuator/distributor next to it is handy as well.

This is as tight as you can get two in one panel with no mults I think.

Oh, wait, maybe I misunderstood you. This is as tight as I'd want two P.B.'s anyway.
knob_alchemist
Hey how to buy the barebones kit in Europe now?? Direct in the FoH website or will they arrive at Schneiders and EFN??
FoxtoneMusic
Hey Knob Alchemist,
Escape From Noise will be carrying all of the barebones kits later this spring when f(h) is in full swing with production. Drop Ulf a line and he will get you taken care of.
-eric
knob_alchemist
Thank you very much! wink
knob_alchemist
No more see at European Distributors.... :( :(
FoxtoneMusic
The world should have BareBones Kits soon!
catchpenny
FoxtoneMusic wrote:
The world should have BareBones Kits soon!


what I came here wanting to know, thanks!
FoxtoneMusic
IN STOCK!!!!!!!!!!!!
nd595
Two questions to flight :
I got the Barebone kit (it is travelling in the post now from Ulf), and when I look at the photo of the kit I notice that an Att switch looks different with the photos of the commercial module (it seems bigger); if so - could you please tell me the part number of the switch you use? I made an engraved front panel according to the manual (looks stunning!), and would not like to make a different one just because of a switch.
Second question is - how do you fit the PCB to the front panel? Are there some special fittings? If so - could I possibly have a look at the photo? You said before - it is DIY, not FIOY!
With Best Regards -
nd595
davebr
I am in the process of building a 1U MOTM-style Plague Bearer module with the R4 kit. I've added a Plague Bearer module page to my site.

I noticed a few silk screen and wiring diagram issues so Photoshopped some correct images that are also on the site. I'm still machining the panel but once it is complete I will post more photos and scope images on that page.

I also posted my FPE design file and one for a dual Plague Bearer in a single 1U panel.

[EDIT - I finished the front panel, PCB bracket, and wired up the module. I milled the back of the panel in 1 mm to better fit the shaft length of the potentiometers. I updated my site with pictures and a short video.]

Dave

modintx
Hi Everyone,

I have exactly the same questions posted by nd595. In my case, I have a commercial v4 with a GreyScale panel, so have the orginal panel + a bear bone kit so was hoping to make a 2nd PBv4.

1) Does someone have a Mouser part # for the Att switch used on the commercial PBv4 please.

2) Advice on best way to mount the PCB to the commercial PBv4 panel- is it the 90 degree sheet metal route using the Pots to anchor?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n-ugh8sbHw4&feature=player_embedded

Thanks all. Guinness ftw!
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