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WIGGLING 'LITE' IN GUEST MODE

[OUT OF STOCK. NEW STOCK - JANUARY 2018.] L-1 Power System.
MUFF WIGGLER Forum Index -> Music Tech DIY Goto page Previous  1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7  Next [all]
Author [OUT OF STOCK. NEW STOCK - JANUARY 2018.] L-1 Power System.
PK808370
atte, I really like your music! I started listening to it while writing the previous post. Thanks for sharing it.
atte
L-1 wrote:


Quick question: why is there only installed voltage regulator + heat sink on one of the bus board in the pics?
sixty_n
@atte the wire that goes from one busboard to the other supplies 5v to the board without no regulator
L-1
yes, I think no need regulators on both boards. one is enough.
atte
Thanks

Two questions:
1) is it correct that on busboards the resistors are R1=4K7, R1=4K7, R3=1K?
2) are all LEDs the same (interchangeable), except of course color?
L-1
atte wrote:
Thanks

Two questions:
1) is it correct that on busboards the resistors are R1=4K7, R1=4K7, R3=1K?
2) are all LEDs the same (interchangeable), except of course color?


1) yes
2) LEDs included in the kit? - yes. LEDs in rest of the world - no.
atte
Thanks. I was only referring to the kit w00t
atte
PK808370 wrote:
atte, I really like your music! I started listening to it while writing the previous post. Thanks for sharing it.


Thanks for listening and for the kind words, means alot! Great to hear you're enjoy it!
atte



Looking at the two above pictures, I'm a little confused about connecting the ring-core.

The first picture has (up-to-down) on the left:
P2E: red
P2A: blue (=white?)
P1E: red
P1A :blue (=white?)

and on the right:
S2E: black
S2A: blue
S1E: black
S1A: blue

The second picture has on the left:
P2E: white
P2A: red
P1E: white
P1A: red

and on the right:
S2E: blue
S2A: blue
S1E: black
S1A: black

What exactly should the connections be?
L-1
Quote:
What exactly should the connections be?


you written this wrong:
and on the right:
S2E: blue
S2A: blue
S1E: black
S1A: black

really black-blue-black-blue.

Both variants are possible but make as on top drawing to not think too much.
atte
L-1 wrote:
Quote:
What exactly should the connections be?


you written this wrong:
and on the right:
S2E: blue
S2A: blue
S1E: black
S1A: black

really black-blue-black-blue.



Looks blue-blue-black-black to me, but agreed, it's hard to see exactly where wires go.

L-1 wrote:

Both variants are possible but make as on top drawing to not think too much.


Ok, thanks a lot! I'll go with the diagram. This was also my first instinct, just noticed they weren't the same, though I'd better ask before I mess something up w00t
atte
So I finished the main board + bus boards, although I didn't connect the bus boards yet. How do I go about calibration, I assume it done with the trim pots?

ATM I get about 12.04V measured straight on the molex connector off the main board. What's my target, 12.00V or?

Also: After pulling the power the 12.04V drops to 0V over a period of about 10-20 seconds, is that to be expected? Didn't measure my Doepfer DIY#2 PSU, but modules turn out almost the moment I pull the power on that one. So although they might not be comparable in any way, the slow off on the L-1 surprised me a bit.
L-1
I installed there 10K resistors to discharge these big capacitors but anyway it takes some time about 10 sec. 18800 uF per rail there.
You can install smaller value - will be quicker.

Yes use trimpots to trim 12V.
atte
Just wanted to say I finished the PSU, it works great, nice build, looks good!

Very happy with my decision, thanks alot L-1!
L-1
atte wrote:
Just wanted to say I finished the PSU, it works great, nice build, looks good!

Very happy with my decision, thanks alot L-1!


My congrats! applause thumbs up
igowen
just picked up a kit from Synthcube. quick question, though: when you say "1.5A per rail" am I understanding correctly that there are two rails, one for each bus board, supporting 1.5A each (for a total of 3A across both)? just trying to plan out my system. I'm thinking about building a larger case if it's 3A, otherwise I will mount it in my existing case since i'm just about at 1.5A currently.

thanks!
khakifridge
Two rails, +12V and -12V. So +12V @ 1.5A and -12V @ 1.5A.
L-1
khakifridge wrote:
Two rails, +12V and -12V. So +12V @ 1.5A and -12V @ 1.5A.


Yes correct.

1.5A is max recommended value.
Thermofuses are 1.85A but can turn off at lower value if bad ventilation. Transformer rated 2.2A. Regulators rated 3A. Diodes 3A.



Rockin' Banana! Rockin' Banana! 2000 post! nanners It's peanut butter jelly time! It's peanut butter jelly time!
igowen
oh, duh, i wasn't thinking about -12V at all d'oh! got it, thanks.
atte
I've found an unconnected hole on the bus-board, might bite someone if using CV on bus board + connected to that particular location. Might want to fix it for a potential next round...

[/img]
igowen
hi again,

i've been having an issue where the thermofuses trip after my system has been on for ~30-45 minutes. the current draw (measured myself, not based on manufacturer specs) is only ~1200mA so this was kind of surprising. Could it be a heat issue? my case is pretty small depthwise. should i try moving up to a larger heat sink?
atte
Do you have sufficient ventilation? Does the case get hot inside?
igowen
the heatsinks get quite hot to the touch - i think around 80-90ÂșC, measured with an infrared thermometer. I haven't measured the air temperature. there isn't much in the way of ventilation, it's basically just a wooden box (think Doepfer LC6 but shallower). I could probably rout some ventilation slots in the top if necessary.
atte
Yeah, ventilation at top + bottom at the back makes a lot of difference. Is just did 3cm at top/bottom of one case and it's nowhere as hot inside now.
igowen
I will give that a try, thanks! i'll probably also swap out the heatsinks, i have some 36mm ones that are the same shape as the ones in the kit.

was trying to avoid having to pull all of my modules out but it looks like it's going to be inevitable smile
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