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Sonic Potions - Penrose Quantizer DIY Kit
MUFF WIGGLER Forum Index -> Music Tech DIY Goto page Previous  1, 2, 3 ... 16, 17, 18, 19  Next [all]
Author Sonic Potions - Penrose Quantizer DIY Kit
lisa
Are there any Penrose user who hasn't experienced any issues? Who just built it and uses it with great success and happiness? w00t
mskala
One here. I haven't objectively tested how accurate the output on mine is; it sounds good enough to me.
amir
I just built one recently.. everything seems to work except when I plug anything into the trig in, the entire unit shorts out and the leds dim. I removed and replaced stuff and looked at the board more than I care to admit and there are no visible shorts. Either there is something wrong with the traces on the board or maybe one of the ICs but I haven't figured it out. To top things off I originally received a box of nothing but components too. Had to wait some time before I got the actual pcbs and panel from modularaddict.

side note, the only projects that I have had problems with have always been "kits". So much better buying your own components rather than getting them in a "kit" that has traded 50 hands by the time it arrives at your doorstep.
Hezza11
My build went ok and I use mine all the time, works fine apart from the occasional rachetting problem I posted about on the previous page. I tried updating the firmware but that hasn't helped, though using a trigger input fixes it so doing that now.
sammy123
I have two and both work well.
eewee
It was one of my first builds, so I had some trouble building it (somehow couldn't get the fuse to solder, and the wiggly buttons are a pain to get aligned and into the front panel).

But it works, as advertised :-)
Daisuk
eewee wrote:
It was one of my first builds, so I had some trouble building it (somehow couldn't get the fuse to solder, and the wiggly buttons are a pain to get aligned and into the front panel).

But it works, as advertised :-)


Yeah, agreed. A lot of build guides in general fail to mention the importance of mounting the faceplate before you solder the stuff that's supposed to stick up above it. I spent a good couple of hours filing down the holes of the Penrose to get the buttons to fit because I followed the build guide too pedantically.
juvation
has anyone done an upside down panel? i ask this because the regular orientation is a little weird... as the pitch goes up, the lights move down...

i built mine in an evening and it works fine, fwiw...
Swyndger
juvation wrote:
has anyone done an upside down panel? i ask this because the regular orientation is a little weird... as the pitch goes up, the lights move down...

i built mine in an evening and it works fine, fwiw...


Now, as you mentioned it wink ... I allways looked at the "keyboard", so it was obvisious, that the deep tones are on top. And most modules (like clock dividers) align the enelments on their panels to "start" at top.
There are more modules with scematic keyboards on the panel ...

http://www.doepfer.de/A1731.htm
https://www.modulargrid.net/e/addac-system-addac207-intuitive-quantize r-black
https://www.modulargrid.net/e/intellijel-%CE%BCscale-v2

... ok, it seems, that the deep tones are always on top. smile

OH, and by the way: My pentose does what it should sine I build it a half year ago, and soon I will build a second one. But I don't use the trigger out too often, so I can't be sure, that mine has no "racheting issue".
Vortico
Just a note if anyone has this problem in the future: one of the buttons couldn't fit through the machined hole in my panel so I had to drill it with a smaller bit to carve out the inside a fraction of a millimeter. Don't worry about being too rough with the drill. I applied quite a lot of force and there were no scratches is broken fragments on the panel.
eewee
also: the caps on the (beautiful!) buttons tend to wobble around a bit, so even if you do have the buttons aligned to the front panel, the moment you take off the panel, they tend to point away a bit in all directions. To then align them such that they fit the front panel again, is a task for the patient :-)
juvation
indeed, getting the front panel on is a challenge. in my case, one of the buttons wasn't 100% flush to the PCB, and so it would get caught under the panel and wouldn't return to its rest position. after resoldering the button (with the panel on, thankfully!) it was fine. phew!

so i would say, extra care with the button alignments... for when i build the second one...

i was going to get another in the Synthcube July 4 sale, but then i remembered that July is a no-buy month waah
niicholas
lisa wrote:
Are there any Penrose user who hasn't experienced any issues? Who just built it and uses it with great success and happiness? w00t


I built one, have experienced no issues, use it in almost every patch. If I remember correctly, aligning the panel with the jiggly buttons was a pain but I just used lots of masking tape to hold everything in place until soldered. w00t w00t
amir
Those that haven't had problems, can you list where you purchased yours and when? What firmware you are on (if you know) or if you've updated the firmware.

I have read others having my issue with the unit shorting when something is plugged into the trig in jack but nobody has ever posted how they fixed it. It is frustrating because this board is not super complicated and I've checked it a lot. Everything is in the right place and no visible shorts.

Also another thing that I have read that nobody has mentioned here yet is that it reacts differently to different cv inputs. Even when fully calibrated, it will work perfectly with some devices in the rack but then i'll plug in a midi to cv converter and it will start going nuts. I have checked that the other units are calibrated perfectly already and they work fine with everything else. The notes either go off by one semitone or lock with two notes on at the same time.
niicholas
amir wrote:
Those that haven't had problems, can you list where you purchased yours and when? What firmware you are on (if you know) or if you've updated the firmware.


I bought mine from Thonk in June 2016 & built it soon afterwards. No idea what firmware version; I've never updated it. This is fun!
eewee
same here - bought it at Thonk early 2016, and upgraded it to what I think is the latest software (1.2).
Swyndger
I've bought mine at the beginnig of the year in the sonic Potions shop ... Software? Don't know ...
basicbasic
amir wrote:
I just built one recently.. everything seems to work except when I plug anything into the trig in, the entire unit shorts out and the leds dim.


I have a similar issue with my Synthcube kit.

I can get it into the firmware update mode and that process seems to work but as soon as I plug cables in to CV or Trigger all LEDs go out.

Before I 'updated' the firmware I was just seeing the green LED being lit, none of the buttons.

I have checked the power rails - +-12 and 5v are all good. I have swapped out the TL072 for a known good one. I have beeped out continuity with a DMM and double checked all my joints.

I'm going to email Synthcube and see if they have any ideas - maybe the Atmega is knackered.
basicbasic
Ok, following this up in case it helps anyone else. I was able to flash a fresh Atmega and the Penrose now works.
eb0687
Need some guidance on how to flash a new Atmega microcontroller.

I have a kit with the included Atmega chip that I am yet to assemble. However, I am interested in the process of how to flash a new chip myself in case..

Thanks in advance for any suggestions.
Altitude909
eb0687 wrote:
Need some guidance on how to flash a new Atmega microcontroller.

I have a kit with the included Atmega chip that I am yet to assemble. However, I am interested in the process of how to flash a new chip myself in case..

Thanks in advance for any suggestions.


https://learn.adafruit.com/introducing-trinket/programming-with-avrdud e
eb0687
Altitude909 wrote:
eb0687 wrote:
Need some guidance on how to flash a new Atmega microcontroller.

I have a kit with the included Atmega chip that I am yet to assemble. However, I am interested in the process of how to flash a new chip myself in case..

Thanks in advance for any suggestions.


https://learn.adafruit.com/introducing-trinket/programming-with-avrdud e


Thanks for the link.
funky catsmell
I built one sometime last year and it's always worked nicely.

scaling is definitely a little wonky, though. i've repeatedly tried to match it to my yarns, and while it can stay close enough within a couple octaves, it trends either high or low on the extremes. no big deal, i assume it's down to component tolerances, and keep inputs within a limited range.

anyone else do anything with the gate output? i found it was resting at ~0.3v when "low", which is enough to read "high" on my logic modules, so i cut the trace and added a diode which solved the problem
antf4rm
tappazee wrote:
I am the happy owner of a newly built penrose - it works great.

Could anyone tell me a way to use other modules to transpose the scale (e.g. transposing a Cmaj arpeggio programmed in to the penrose to a Dmaj arpeggio - emulating the root note shift function in the uscale, i think)? Is it a matter of running the penrose through a dc offset module? Or can a separate DC source just be added into the signal from the out of the penrose? Apologies in advance for n00b-ness.


Add the root note to the output of the penrose with a unity gain mixer.
BRNDSCHTZN
I built this module a few weeks ago and actually I'm having some really weird behaviour...

When finishing my build I had some problems with it - but troubleshooting it I found out that I didn' had pushed the Atmega 168 deep enough in it's socket. After doing this I got a working module which finally I managed to calibrate aswell...

A few days ago I took out all the modules in my case to reasemble them newly and after doing so the Penrose is really behaving strange. All the LED's on the buttons are behaving as expected - they light up and I can turn them on and off but with CV coming through IN nothing is happening.

Yesterday I had the lower C note always active and no change when applying CV. I then measured the voltage on the OUT and measured 9,84 V there constantly. I also measured the IN and surprisingly got a voltage of -8,83 V there.

I dismounted the module but found no obvious problems when inspecting it. When I had the first problems directly after the build I already went through the build guide again and checked everything for correct placement and orientation as well as the solder joints...

Today I looked through this thread and the Sonic Potions forum but found no descriptions similar to my problem.

Before writing this post I checked the module again and got a slightly different behaviour now. A different note the C was active now, so again I made some measurements. I now measured 3,86 V on the out and -3,5 V on the in. When I plugged a cable to IN and just connected it randomly to a jack (for example from my RYO Ampmix) the voltage increased to 9,84 V and decreased again after unplugging the cable. In a second test I just made I had a voltage of about 5V with nothing plugged in and noticed that it was enough to raise this to nearly 10 V when just touching another jack in the rack with just the tip of a cable plugged to IN...

Any ideas how I could go on troubleshooting this strange problem?
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