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Sonic Potions - Penrose Quantizer DIY Kit
MUFF WIGGLER Forum Index -> Music Tech DIY Goto page Previous  1, 2, 3 ... 17, 18, 19 [all]
Author Sonic Potions - Penrose Quantizer DIY Kit
Baddcr wrote:
confirmation from someone like yourself who has already done it would be very good.

I see errors. So I'll give you the details very soon.
Baddcr wrote:
Attempting to build one of these in Frac format, I tend to prefer visual instructions rather than text, so I worked out what I think the clues mean and made these photos, would someone be so kind as to confirm I have the wiring correct

What I see on the picture you posted is that these should be wired like this.

Now about the switch if someone reads this:
It is needed for TRIG IN cause by replacing the 3.5mm plug with a banana we loose the normalization where output voltage will only change if a trigger is received.
As I don't have any magnifying glass anymore and totally blind to see anything behind my Penrose panel to help Baddcr and tell him how I did (here a good ex. which shows I should have noticed how I did on paper when I did it), I can't help him nor confirm the wiring he shows in his post is correct. Bummer.
I don't have the 3.5mm plugs neither which came with the kit, which would allow without magnifying glass to check which pins are used for normalization with my DVM.

@Baddcr: if nobody could help in a week or so, ask me again and I will take my module appart to see how I wired mine exactly.
Oh thank you!!!

I reviewed what I did and I actually got the assessment right, but drew it wrong on the photo d'oh!

Hehe, so funny as I spent ages checking and double checking that I understood the pinout on the sockets and their relationship to the pcb!

Anyway, definitely okay for the socket wiring, just the switch. I can't do it at the moment, but when I get chance I will write out my reasoning, and with a bit of lucky shouldn't have to take your module apart.

Thank you once again, I really appreciate your time and effort thumbs up
So, here's my rationale for the switch wiring, BugBrand posted this:

BugBrand wrote:
If I remember right - trig in goes direct in to the tip connection, but there is normalisation for the ring connector - when a mono plug is inserted, it connects to ground. I think I mentioned that in my banana bits a while back, no?

So - to clarify (just got your PM!) - tip goes to pin3 of J4, then you have a switch going from pin2 (ring) to pin5 (gnd)

The sockets that come with the kit have this pinout:

So my photo should be right:

pin2 could go to either end of the switch, depending on which way you wanted to flip the switch for normalisation. Perhaps to the right would be better thinking about it.

Cheers smile
I confirm thumbs up
Like Tom said.

Flu + time at home => I checked mine.
Oh wow - this is great - I like that this process is being documented so clearly!

Thank you very much indeed grin

thumbs up thumbs up thumbs up thumbs up thumbs up thumbs up thumbs up
Just finished this off, I can confirm that the voltage regulators are not needed, it works fine from 15V.

I didn't modify the PCB at all, I raised the buttons up from the PCB using the little pin holders from IC sockets that I broke up. This means the buttons are much higher out of the face panel and there's just enough room for the banana jacks and the wiring. It's really neat.

I used component legs to connect the banana sockets to the pcb - this means I could easily 'wire it up' by pushing the legs through the rather thin holes.

I used wire to connect the switch, made them slightly longer than needed so I could solder then assemble - made the process much easier!

The IC sockets for the upside down TL072 and the right way up MCP602 were a mistake and I had to desolder them so there was room. Next time I would mount both the TL072 and the MCP602 upside down and use sockets in both places - that's the only thing i am not 100% happy about with this build. The rest is good!

Hope this helps someone else making this conversion smile

Thank you to everyone who has helped - I really appreciate your input.

I just started building the kit and while looking for the 100k resistors found out they were swapped to 99k's I know that in theory they are compatible `1%` band.

Is this a design change? If I have 100k's should I use them?

Please let me know.

Just finished building mine, everything seems to work as it should after calibrating and updating to most recent firmware.

Except ... the green LEDs in the buttons seem very dim. Is this just me? I can hardly see whether they'e lit up or not during the daytime. Red seems a lot brighter.
lisa wrote:
Are there any Penrose user who hasn't experienced any issues? Who just built it and uses it with great success and happiness? w00t

Hey Lisa, I have built two and both work fine. (PCB, Panel and Chip from Thonk but sourced the other parts myself)



[quote="amir"]Those that haven't had problems, can you list where you purchased yours and when? What firmware you are on (if you know) or if you've updated the firmware.

Hey Amir.

I got my PCB, Panel and chip from Thonk, sourced the rest of the stuff myself. havnt flashed the ROM and it works fine from factory..

bensaddiction wrote:
This looks fantastic,

I'm just curious to hear peoples opinions on how easy it has been to calibrate?

Still, haven't succeeded in calibrating mine. If i understand correctly the red led indicates what the current incoming pitch is. the red led on mine is always in the same position whatever pitch/voltage i feed it. This makes calibration impossible.(?)
gbraakman wrote:
the red led on mine is always in the same position whatever pitch/voltage i feed it

Is it so as well when you have a few notes selected (green)?
Finished building a Penrose last night and it seems to work great with one exception. The gate output always reads about 2.3V, even with nothing else patched. It then only gives a slightly higher pulse on note changes (haven't yet been able to measure the pulse voltage). Has anyone else seen this? I've gone over the boards carefully and don't see anything obviously wrong, joints look good, etc. Any ideas on where I might investigate? Thanks for any suggestions.
The circuitry is minimal - if you look at page 2 of the schematic you see that the gate signal passes through U3B (2nd half of IC 3). R2/R9 form a bias of 2.5V, then the rest is a unity gain inverter (using 10k resistors) - comes out to pin3 of the inter-board-header then straight out to LED and gate output --- ie. check around U3B! The resistors are 1k/10k/100k so check you haven't got any values muddled up.
Thanks for the tips, I'll double check those resistor values.
What is the actual octave range of these modules? Can't seem to find a solid answer here.

From the manual you'd assume 10 octaves. (0-10v)

I built one recently and it seems to just crap out at the 6th octave and above

My test method:
Maths Output 2 to Penrose IN
OUT from Penrose to V/OCT on Plaits
Penrose only has the top button active
Slowly turn Maths 2 knob clockwise
Count the octave intervals monitored from Plaits.

First 5 octaves track pretty accurately, Octave 6 seems kinda flat and then any increases from that point the Penrose just seems to output a constant voltage.

I've noticed a few people in this thread mention they only seem to get about 5 octaves or so out of this module but never really seen confirmation if its an issue with their individual builds or this is expected behaviour..
Yes 0 to +10V.
I've been using the 12bit version of the DAC though haven't done deep comparison & can't remember offhand the part number!
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