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temps_utile / 6 x clock generator [build thread etc]
MUFF WIGGLER Forum Index -> Music Tech DIY Goto page Previous  1, 2, 3, 4, 5 ... 29, 30, 31  Next [all]
Author temps_utile / 6 x clock generator [build thread etc]
Altitude909
puzo wrote:
Hi. Does this suffer from the 1.3 oled shortage and do we anticipate the 1.4" adapted board from the OC to work?


It looks like they are back, couple places on ebay have them. I struck out on Ali, they took my money and never sent anything (2 places actually)
mxmxmx
puzo wrote:
Hi. Does this suffer from the 1.3 oled shortage and do we anticipate the 1.4" adapted board from the OC to work?


yes and yes. it's the same display/pinout/driver. it'll take a while until everything is confirmed, including the panel, which will need adjustment (ie the cut-out)


Altitude909 wrote:


It looks like they are back, couple places on ebay have them.


really? i only seem to find 0.96" (with 7 pins, some of them with matching pinout) and a bunch of 1.3" ones, but with a different pinout (6 pins: VCC - GND - SCK - DATA - CS - D/C). those won't work; the CS, D/C stuff could be fixed easily enough in the firmware, but VCC and GND don't match.
puzo
Cheers, that's great, to the project and the adjustments to keep it alive. Guess I shouldn't take so long to get to my boards. I havnt got a panel yet so ok there.
Altitude909
grr.

didnt catch the wrong pinout on the others.

Anyone have a spare display they want to get rid of in the US?
sammy123
Raph let me check this evening. If I have two I'd be happy to send you one. I want to say I bought an ebay one a year or so ago and an adafruit one as well.
Altitude909
Cool, IIRC, the Adafruit was the 4 pin and I need the 7 pin..

On a related topic, what's the deal with 6pin vs 7pin? Cant I just run wires to change the pinout?
mxmxmx
Altitude909 wrote:

On a related topic, what's the deal with 6pin vs 7pin? Cant I just run wires to change the pinout?


adafruit has yet another pinout. and is sold out, too.

as for 6 vs 7 pin, some of those boards have a/the reset signal broken out, some of them don't. in as much those 6 pin ones do exist, i assume the reset signal is not absolutely needed (it certainly doesn't get deployed very much, except during initialisation). but i haven't ever tried and can't try now (ie what happens when commenting the reset stuff out). i'd assume it'll be fine; other than being more messy, running wires to the respective signals will be ok, of course.
sammy123
Actually looking closer I think my adafruit display was the 128x32 for the eurotrash. So I don't think I have a spare.
Altitude909
So what's the story about just making our own boards?

These displays are $5 from Future

http://www.futureelectronics.com/en/Technologies/Product.aspx?ProductI D=UG2864KLBLG01WISECHIPSEMICONDUCTORINC3048743&IM=0
mxmxmx
Altitude909 wrote:
So what's the story about just making our own boards?

These displays are $5 from Future


yeah, i was considering using bare 1.3" and simply make the necessary modifications to the adafruit board (.brd file) (ie basically just move the header pins around), but i couldn't find a reliable-looking source for the OLEDs (Future also says stock: 0)

i'm currently waiting for one of these. and this:




(8 pins because of O+C, the 8th pin is pulled high so the MCU can detect which OLED is being used. or at least that's the plan.)

the 1.5" ones are not as cheap, but they're available. and they come with a ZIF connector, which i figured will be easier to handle than the FPC connectors on the 1.3" ones.

in principle it looks entirely doable though; basically all that needs to go on the board is a few passives and a 3.3V/12V step up converter, such as this..
Altitude909
Sweet. So just rework the adafruit for the right pinout and it should work? I have a pile of ones that are wrong pinout that I can just rework..
mxmxmx
Altitude909 wrote:
Sweet. So just rework the adafruit for the right pinout and it should work? I have a pile of ones that are wrong pinout that I can just rework..


yep, it should. this one doesn't even need 12V. there's some stuff on there not needed (5v -> 3v3 level shifting, 3v3 local regulation, i2c option), so things could be simplified quite a bit, but re-arranging the pins should be all that's needed to make it work. basically: GND - 3v3 - D0 (SCK) - D1 (DATA) - RST - D/C - CS rather than DATA - SCK - D/C - RST - CS - 3v3 - 5v - GND
Altitude909
Are the diodes needed on the CS/RST/DC lines?
mxmxmx
Altitude909 wrote:
Are the diodes needed on the CS/RST/DC lines?


no, i don't think. i'd probably keep the pull-up resistors on CS, RST and DC, most of the rest can go:


Altitude909
Hows this look:



Altitude909
Ok,

Did some testing on the boards that I have here removing and re-soldering the displays to their respective boards and its a snap. Remove with hot air, solder back in place with iron. No problems. Polyimide is some cool shit for sure, seems crazy to be soldering metalized plastic (I didnt even turn the iron down, set at 370 C) but it works like a charm. I tried drag soldering at first but that made a mess but reworked it pin by pin and it looks as good as a hot bar with no damage
mxmxmx
Altitude909 wrote:
Hows this look:


cool, looking good.

except, you'd either have to get rid of the 8th pin or move the header slightly to the right, otherwise the panel cut-out will be off a few millimeters, because it expects those 7 pin OLEDs (which have the 7 pin header centred).

but the 8th pin ("MISO") is not really needed here. (it might be of some use for "ornament+crime", but the firmware defaults to SH1106, which is basically identical to SSD1306.) if you keep it, i'd pull it up via 10k rather than connect it to 3v3 though.

R2 i guess can go, too. just tie BS1 to GND.
mxmxmx
Altitude909 wrote:
Ok,

Did some testing on the boards that I have here removing and re-soldering the displays to their respective boards and its a snap. Remove with hot air, solder back in place with iron. No problems. Polyimide is some cool shit for sure, seems crazy to be soldering metalized plastic (I didnt even turn the iron down, set at 370 C) but it works like a charm. I tried drag soldering at first but that made a mess but reworked it pin by pin and it looks as good as a hot bar with no damage


oh, and that's good news. i've never tried but was mildly concerned it might not be feasible ...
Altitude909
Another possible source:
http://www.first-components.com/p/415/ug-2864kxxlg01
keninverse
I have the older Rev2 of the board...am I right to assume I can swap the 074 w/the rail to rail MCP6004 without any other component changes? Does this apply to the O+C as well?
mxmxmx
keninverse wrote:
I have the older Rev2 of the board...am I right to assume I can swap the 074 w/the rail to rail MCP6004 without any other component changes? Does this apply to the O+C as well?


no, they're not swappable! the ones with 6004 say '6004' on the silkscreen, on both pcbs.
keninverse
Oh I get it. I really need to think things through before posting stuff like this. The 6004 is running off the same supply as the teensy so that's why the schottky diodes are missing in the new Rev. It'll pop if I just drop it in the 074 spot. So would it be worth it to purchase the newer board?
mxmxmx
keninverse wrote:
So would it be worth it to purchase the newer board?


no, it's the same thing essentially; the version with the MCP6004 before the ADC is a bit simpler but not so much simpler.
flts
Well, seems my second Temps-Utile has a dead OLED. The Teensy powers up and lets reprogram itself just fine, and based on throwing manual gates to the unit it seems it does pass 1:1 clock from output 1 so it's working to some degree. It's just that there's nothing on the screen. The O+C I built in same session seems to work just fine.

Anything in particular I should check?
flts
To clarify, the O+C works with both displays, Temps-Utile with neither, so the problem is somewhere in Temps-Utile. As the Teensy seems to work just fine, it's assumingly not the Teensy, but either the software or connections somewhere in between display and the Teensy. Tried reflowing the obvious places and measuring continuity between Teensy pins and board, to no avail.

Furthermore, all the OLED pins are connected to somewhere on the teensy, except VCC and GND which receive 3.3V as intended. Tried replacing the Teensy with one from O+C just for fun (I'm not sure if the pinout is even same), and the screen was still blank. Back to O+C board, works fine.

By quickly poking on the data lines with multimeter on frequency mode there's ~50Hz signal on the data lines and clock.
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