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Blacet MX2040 Closeout SALE $79 Kit
MUFF WIGGLER Forum Index -> Fractional Rack Modules Goto page Previous  1, 2, 3  Next [all]
Author Blacet MX2040 Closeout SALE $79 Kit
e-grad
drumsofd00m wrote:
So sorry to annoy you sir, and to misrepresent the truth. Please take my sincerest appy pologies, sir...


I think you overly sensitive.

Blacet did a great job in offering extremely noob friendly kits. Hersay assertion that may scare noobs and thus hamper his business I consider very unfair.
dhamaryder
i just bought probably one of the last ones of these Mixer/Processor kits. Just built it today. gosh, I didn't realize this is exactly what I was looking for about a year and a half ago. I ended up making a couple of Buchlidian Voltage Processors and they're good, but this Mixer/Processor is VERY good, even better. I didn't realize this was even out there until I got an email saying Blacet was selling the last few of them so i read about it and realized this was exactly what I had been looking for awhile back, much more than just a mixer. It's true though, I would have greatly appreciated if it was only one unit wide. Looking at the front panel I realized it easily could have been made to fit, EASILY. I had to remove another module that I don't use too often in order to make it fit in my rack. I may end up just cutting the face plate in half myself, although it will ruin the nice printing on the front. Oh well. I'm definitely glad I got one of these before they went extinct. Thanks for making this John!

steve
Acid Mitch
Got my kits on Friday.
Having a hard time finding tools as all tool recommendations are for stuff in USA and I'm in UK, so there are still a few things I need to find.

Is there anywhere in UK to get small amounts ( 250g or under ) of Kester solder ?
Like I don't need a Kilo and don't want to spend £100 on it.
Do you guys in Europe/UK use anything else ?

The only tip tinners I can find are lead free.. Can I still use them with leaded solder ?

How fine a point do I want on my solder tip ? (How many mm ? )

The Blacet manual says I'll need Side cutters - What cut type do I want. Angled, straight,standard,flush,,beval or diagonal ?
What size ?

Anyone know what size the nuts are ? Blacet 2040 manual says I need a nut driver set (I'd rather not use pliers) but says nothing about the sizes.

And also what size do I need for wire strippers ?

Aplogies if this belongs in the DIY section.
Acid Mitch
dhamaryder wrote:
i just bought probably one of the last ones of these Mixer/Processor kits.


I noticed today they are back to normal price with no warning about low stock. Maybe they will be around for a while longer.
fracmonkey
Acid Mitch wrote:
Got my kits on Friday.
Having a hard time finding tools as all tool recommendations are for stuff in USA and I'm in UK, so there are still a few things I need to find.

Is there anywhere in UK to get small amounts ( 250g or under ) of Kester solder ?
Like I don't need a Kilo and don't want to spend £100 on it.
Do you guys in Europe/UK use anything else ?

The only tip tinners I can find are lead free.. Can I still use them with leaded solder ?

How fine a point do I want on my solder tip ? (How many mm ? )

The Blacet manual says I'll need Side cutters - What cut type do I want. Angled, straight,standard,flush,,beval or diagonal ?
What size ?

Anyone know what size the nuts are ? Blacet 2040 manual says I need a nut driver set (I'd rather not use pliers) but says nothing about the sizes.

And also what size do I need for wire strippers ?

Aplogies if this belongs in the DIY section.


I think any make of solder is OK as long as it has water soluable flux and is " no clean" type for the final wiring. Not sure if lead free is OK, but it is usually very expensive.

Not sure what a "tip tinner" is....

Side cutters are for trimming leads on the PCB. Usually side cutters ("170") type are good but a lot of things will work.

Nut sizes are 5/16" for jacks and 7/16" for pot nuts. I don't think you need any other sizes.

Looks like the wire used for the front panels is 24 gauge.
Acid Mitch
Thanks fracmonkey.

fracmonkey wrote:


I think any make of solder is OK as long as it has water soluable flux and is " no clean" type for the final wiring. Not sure if lead free is OK, but it is usually very expensive.
.


In the UK high street retailers like Maplin only sell lead free - with or with out silver. I can't seem to find larger retailers selling small amounts of leaded.

fracmonkey wrote:

Not sure what a "tip tinner" is.....


You use it in place of a sponge and it cleans your tip and tins it in one go.
werock
Acid Mitch wrote:
Got my kits on Friday.
Having a hard time finding tools as all tool recommendations are for stuff in USA and I'm in UK, so there are still a few things I need to find.

Is there anywhere in UK to get small amounts ( 250g or under ) of Kester solder ?
Like I don't need a Kilo and don't want to spend £100 on it.
Do you guys in Europe/UK use anything else ?

The only tip tinners I can find are lead free.. Can I still use them with leaded solder ?

How fine a point do I want on my solder tip ? (How many mm ? )

The Blacet manual says I'll need Side cutters - What cut type do I want. Angled, straight,standard,flush,,beval or diagonal ?
What size ?

Anyone know what size the nuts are ? Blacet 2040 manual says I need a nut driver set (I'd rather not use pliers) but says nothing about the sizes.

And also what size do I need for wire strippers ?

Aplogies if this belongs in the DIY section.


I use this solder from Rapid, which comes on a 250g reel:

http://www.rapidonline.com/tools-equipment/hydro-oa-rosin-free-water-w ash-cored-solder-60027

I got some kind of socket set years ago that has plenty of different size attachments, both imperial & metric which does the job.

Any normal set of wire cutters will do. Take a look at the tools that are sold by thonk.co.uk, the side cutters, wire strippers and snip nose pliers are all ideal.
werock
Oh, & I don't use tip tinners, I just clean the tip on the bit of sponge that comes with the soldering iron.
fracmonkey
Actually, Blacet sells small solder packs for building their kits. Found on the store page...
Acid Mitch
werock wrote:

I use this solder from Rapid, which comes on a 250g reel:

http://www.rapidonline.com/tools-equipment/hydro-oa-rosin-free-water-w ash-cored-solder-60027 .


Sweet. Will grab some of that.
The 2040 manual says "no clean" solder is ideal for pots and switches off the PCB.
Should I be getting something like http://www.rapidonline.com/tools-equipment/future-hf-2-63-37-22swg-sol der-500g-85-6274
or should I be fine using the one you linked earlier for everything ?


werock wrote:

I got some kind of socket set years ago that has plenty of different size attachments, both imperial & metric which does the job..


Getting Imperial and metric mixed up was my main concern.

werock wrote:
. Take a look at the tools that are sold by thonk.co.uk, the side cutters, wire strippers and snip nose pliers are all ideal.


They do look ideal, thanks.
Acid Mitch
fracmonkey wrote:
Actually, Blacet sells small solder packs for building their kits. Found on the store page...


Doh!!!.
werock
Acid Mitch wrote:

The 2040 manual says "no clean" solder is ideal for pots and switches off the PCB.
Should I be getting something like http://www.rapidonline.com/tools-equipment/future-hf-2-63-37-22swg-sol der-500g-85-6274
or should I be fine using the one you linked earlier for everything ?



You should use a no clean solder for things like pots & switches. Anything where you can't wash the board off with water. Solders like the one I linked to earlier are very corrosive and should be cleaned off with water as soon as possible. Once you start adding components that can't be washed, then you move over to the no-clean solder.

You would also use no clean solder if you were doing some rework on a completed PCB, i.e. removing a dead IC or something.

The one you linked to looks fine, but they do smaller rolls:

http://www.rapidonline.com/tools-equipment/future-hf-low-melting-point -halide-free-no-clean-cored-solder-60030
Acid Mitch
The smaller one you linked is only a few ££ cheaper but is half the size and contains silver.
Is it worth going for the silver one at almost double the price ?
werock
I'm not sue what the advantages of silver are in solder.

I've remembered which one I use, I got a small reel of this 0.5mm Stannol stuff from Rapid:

http://www.rapidonline.com/tools-equipment/stannol-hs10-sn60-pb39-cu1- solder-wire-520388

It doesn't say on that page that it is a no-clean solder, but it is.
J3RK
I use this for all sealed components. (no trims, switches, pots, etc.)
http://www.kester.com/products/product/331-Flux-Cored-Wire/

It rinses away easily with warm water and a toothbrush.

I use this for No-Clean for all of the nonsealed components, wiring, etc.
http://www.kester.com/products/product/245-Flux-Cored-Wire/

It's a bit expensive, but it's really good stuff. Also, as much as you pay up-front, a single roll of the 331 lasted me 5 years of constant building more or less. I just bought my second roll a few months ago.
Acid Mitch
I ended up just getting the stuff above from Rapid. UK sorces for Kester are well out my price range,
Got everything delivered today. w00t
Will hopefully get to use it at the weekend.
Acid Mitch
I'm off to a great start. Broke the first pcb already and am 4 components down w00t
I should probably save myself some time and just take a hammer to the next kit. Lolhammer!
werock
Oops. woah

What is broken on the PCB?
Acid Mitch
I tried to desolder 4 components I'd put in the wrong place. (I got imxed up what some of the components were)
On the component side of the PCB some silk screen and the little metal rim round 2 holes has came off. This happened after I'd got a component off and tried to clear the hole with some desoldering braid.

I was heating a leg from one side of the board and some one was pulling on the component to try and dislodge it but it didn't end well..
In 3 other holes I'm left with pins that are quite short and hard to get out, so I 've gave it a wash and left it for now.
werock
I've had that happen to me in the past, it's very frustrating!

I now use a heated desolder pump which works very well, something like this:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Electric-Desolder-Pump-Iron-Solder-Soldering -Remover-Sucker-Free-Wick-Braid-/121075421036

It only needs a couple of seconds to heat the solder and the pump removes all the solder very well.

Hopefully your PCB is still usable. If you've got a multimeter, then you can check the continuity - have a look at the the schematic and trace where the track goes, you can then check with the meter if there is still a connection there.

PM me if you need any help!
fracmonkey
It is usually a better idea to sacrifice the component and save the PCB. A resistor costs $.05 but you can easily mess up the $10 PCB (and all your work) trying to heat up both legs enough to get the part out whole.

It's better to snip one leg of the part and pull out each side separately. A solder sucker is a good idea. I put the PCB in a vise or PCB holder and work from both sides: heat on one side and needle nose on the other to remove the lead. Then heat and solder sucker to clean out the hole. It helps to add some solder to the hole if it does not clean out properly the first time.
Acid Mitch
werock wrote:

I now use a heated desolder pump which works very well, something like this:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Electric-Desolder-Pump-Iron-Solder-Soldering -Remover-Sucker-Free-Wick-Braid-/121075421036

!


I've just bought one of those.
Before using the braid I had tried a desoldering pump that doesn't heat up but I couldn't get it to remove anything.

werock wrote:

Hopefully your PCB is still usable. If you've got a multimeter, then you can check the continuity - have a look at the the schematic and trace where the track goes, you can then check with the meter if there is still a connection there.!


Aye, I anticipated some problems and bought a multi meter.
I seem to have one hole no longer connected to anything. The othera are ok. (so far, hihi )
Hopefully I can bridge the broken connection or something. The board is mostly complete. I wasn't far from finishing nthe washable stuff.

werock wrote:

PM me if you need any help!


Will do , thanks.


fracmonkey wrote:
It is usually a better idea to sacrifice the component and save the PCB.....yadda yadda .


Handy info, thanks.
cupwise
i put together a mini wave not too long ago, and it didn't seem any more difficult than the few other kits i've done (paia quadrafuzz, eurorack l-1 tube vca and stereo compressor), but for some reason, it doesn't work. :(

i've gone over my work with a fine tooth comb a few times, looking for any solder blobs making a short, components placed incorrectly, etc, and have found nothing. it comes on, and spits out sound, and the wave selector works, but the bank selector is what's messed up. it's been a while, but if i recall correctly, it only allows me to select two different banks (can't remember which).

since i put it together a few months ago i guess you could say i'm on my way to 'taking half a year' to put mine together, like the other guy mentioned in the thread. i don't know if long gaps where i put the thing aside really counts though. only thing i can think of to do is to pull all the chips and put them back in but i'm hesitant since i don't wanna bend the legs any more than i did putting them in. they look fine anyway..
Acid Mitch
cupwise wrote:

since i put it together a few months ago i guess you could say i'm on my way to 'taking half a year' to put mine together, like the other guy mentioned in the thread. .


Hey, I've joined the 6 month club. Do we get a badge or anything ?
The wiring on the mixers has me beat. Each board took around 12 hours to stuff and now it's 6 months and counting to do the wiring,

Also just spent around 9 hours on a frequency divider kit and it's dead. Plugged it in and it does nothing. w00t

Some how I got lucky and the 2 mults I made are working.
So far 3 out of 5 kits have been a failure.
e-grad
Acid Mitch wrote:
The wiring on the mixers has me beat. Each board took around 12 hours to stuff and now it's 6 months and counting to do the wiring,


I hate wiring! If I've not a complete kit I often let the populated and soldered pcbs collect dust for... well, a long time.

Most hateful wiring has been for the PAiA Dual VCO and my CGS Serge Res EQ. Both have plenty of flying wires packed behind a rather small panel.

So I've waited for some quiet moment and avoided any rush. Took my time to seriously think how to proceed. I figured out which step should be the first and which the subsequent.

IIRC: I soldered the first wire to the pcb and cut it to the lenght needed (i.e. that is slighlty more then the distance from pcb to jack etc). Now I tinned its ending and covered it with masking tape. Wrote its destination (i.e. "jack A") on the tape. Thus I proceeded slowly from wire to wire. Break.

Now I figured which succession is best for soldering the prepared wires to its destinations and followed this scheme. Kind in mind, there will be one connection you want to avoid to solder as a final step.

This is a lot planning for a couple of wires - and even more so for me since I tend to neglect any planning otherwise. However, it worked for me even for some of the most scary projects. (But then I still have a KLEE ahead!)


Acid Mitch wrote:
Also just spent around 9 hours on a frequency divider kit and it's dead. Plugged it in and it does nothing.

I'm sure we can animate this. No lights flashing? No output? Do you have a continuity tester? A DMM?
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