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WIGGLING 'LITE' IN GUEST MODE

Blacet MX2040 Closeout SALE $79 Kit
MUFF WIGGLER Forum Index -> Fractional Rack Modules Goto page Previous  1, 2, 3 [all]
Author Blacet MX2040 Closeout SALE $79 Kit
Acid Mitch
e-grad wrote:


IIRC: I soldered the first wire to the pcb and cut it to the lenght needed (i.e. that is slighlty more then the distance from pcb to jack etc). Now I tinned its ending and covered it with masking tape. Wrote its destination (i.e. "jack A") on the tape. Thus I proceeded slowly from wire to wire. Break. ?


I did more or less the same, only I didn't solder the wire in place before cutting and stripping it.
Stripping the wire is part of my problem. I think I might have the wrong sort of strippers as the holes are either 2 big or 2 small. There's no way I can cut wire to a specified length as it takes a few goes to strip the ends without cutting all the way through.

I got one mixer wired up but the connections didn't work at the jack end. Trying to fix it I messed up some of the wires and melted a leg on one of the jacks.
It needs the earth wire fixed or replaced on 3 or 4 jacks, the other wiring could be done better and 1 jack needs replaced.
I haven't wired the other mixer yet as I couldn't strip the wire without cutting right through and stopped as I didn't want to destroy much more. Tried a few times but I only have 1 suitable piece so far.

e-grad wrote:

Now I figured which succession is best for soldering the prepared wires to its destinations and followed this scheme. Kind in mind, there will be one connection you want to avoid to solder as a final step.


Aye, I noticed some connections were pretty hard to get to once some wiring was in place. I hadn't even considered that before starting.

e-grad wrote:

No lights flashing? No output? Do you have a continuity tester? A DMM?


No lights and no output from both sections. Can't blame my dodgy wiring this time. hihi
I have a DMM. I'm pretty sure it can do continuity. Will check.
e-grad
Guess you'll be able to fix the dodgy wiring on the mixer. A good cable stripper is of great help, yet, the first couple of years I used a kitchen knife (not extremely sharp) as a stripper. No rocket science but a haptic feedback that is hard to match.

For the Divider: You should visually inspect your solder work. Does any joint looks fine i.e. no blobs but rather cone shaped?

Check the orientation of U1 to U7; any electrolytic capacitor and the power connector.

Are the two 6 pin headers which connect the boards soldered? Any shorts? Take your continuity tester to make sure there are shorts.

I use to test any jack. Even though the Divider has no flying wires you might check the jacks to make sure that any jack is fine.

Insert a cable into jack. Tip is signal and sleeve is com. Connect both tip and sleeve to continuity tester. You'll know you want no continuity. Now connect sleeve to COM at the power connector on the board i.e. the two pins in middle of the JPWR. These points should be connect.

If that is fine the real fun starts. Read the schematics! At this point it is very easy. You have 7 ICs. The schemo tells you at which pin the chips should be connected to power connector (JPWR). An arrow pointing upward = +15V; arrow pointing downward = -15V; three lines triangular shaped = COM.

For example look at the schematic. In the corner top left you have pin 4; 11; 12; 13; 14 of U1. The schemo tells you none of these pins should be connected among eachother. Check for any shorts with your continuity tester.

Furthermore you know pin 4 goes to the + power rail of JPWR. This is the top pin of JPWR. Pin 13 goes to the negative rail (the lowest pin of JPWR).

You can test these connections with continuity tester right on the bench. No need to power up the module at this point. You should do this for any IC.
fracmonkey
The Blacet Store page states that two units are left and the module is being discontinued. It also lists four options for mixing functions.

I might also add in response to the above assembly problems that good tools are vital to success. In particular, Blacet uses 24 ga wire (for modules that still have wiring), so look for this number when purchasing wire strippers. In most cases I have seen suitable units in most decent hardware stores.
Acid Mitch
Thanks for the tips guys. I had a poke around the Frequency divider with the DMM but can't find anything so far. The jacks seem ok, the 6 pin headers seem to be carrying signals from the jacks, U1 - U6 seem fine (I only have 6 IC's , not 7) . as does the electrolytic capacitor and the power connector,

Will look into better strippers for the mixer and try again with th FD over the next few days.
e-grad
Acid Mitch wrote:
(I only have 6 IC's , not 7)


U7 is the voltage regulator above JPWR. Its orientation is crucial.

Did you check the orientation of the diodes?

How did you powered the Divider for testing? In a rack? Do you have a test PSU? I assume your DMM can read V, right?

When testing the Divider you twiddled with the Sensivity pot? Sorry, if I'm aksing the obvious but this little pot can bring any operation to a halt.
Acid Mitch
e-grad wrote:


U7 is the voltage regulator above JPWR. Its orientation is crucial.
.


AH,ok.I just looked and orientation matches the PCB.


e-grad wrote:

Did you check the orientation of the diodes?
.


Aye, D1,D2 and DA,DB all match orientation described in the instructions., with the line round the diode going at the end with the line on the >| symbol. D3 matches the PCB,


e-grad wrote:

When testing the Divider you twiddled with the Sensitivity pot? Sorry, if I'm aksing the obvious but this little pot can bring any operation to a halt.


Aye, wiggled it but nothing. It did make me wonder where I should be leaving it set to for testing. Any idea ?

e-grad wrote:

How did you powered the Divider for testing? In a rack? Do you have a test PSU?


I'm using a bench supply(loaned to me while someone is building a PSU to go in my rack) with some wires temporarily soldered to an Oakley Dizzy in my rack. I could disconnect the dizzy to use the bench supply for testing but then how do I connect the bench supply to the power socket on the FD ?

e-grad wrote:

I assume your DMM can read V, right?


Aye, correctamundo
e-grad
Well, then testing the powered module.

Pls, be careful!

Do not disconnect the Dizzy from the PSU. Blacet and Oakley uses the same power connectors and the same pin layout.

First power up the Dizzy w/out module to test the MTA connectors. The Set your DMM to meassure DC V. Your gnd lead goes to one the two pins in the middle. These are your COM rails. A lead with alligator clips will help to keep the probe in position.

Now you can read on the Dizzy board where +15V rail is supposed to be. Check with the V lead of your DMM. Check the -15V rail, too.

If that's fine. Power off the PSU and connect the Divider. Mind the orientation of the power connector. Power on.

If you're looking onto the Divider's pcb (pots left, power connector right) pin 1 of U7 is the left pin.

Does it read 5V here?
Do you read 5V at pin 1 of U6?
5V at pin 5 of the U2?
(U2 and U6 are the only ICs that run on 5V.)

Continue with U1 to U5. You see from the schematic that +15V rail goes to pin 4 and that the -15V rail goes to pin 11 of U1, U4, U5 (TL074).

U3 (TL072): pin 8 = +15V; pin 4 = -15V.

If you're not familar with DMMs: pay attention to the voltage range selected. Are the DMM's leads at their particular connector (these can vary whether you meassure ohm or V)?

Jus tin case, the couting of the pins can be seen here:


edit: Pls note: pin1/U6 appears top left-hand in the schematics while it is at the bottom left-hand side of the chip!
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