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Żłob Modular: Entropy 3hp Sample/Track\Hold Noise Out Now
MUFF WIGGLER Forum Index -> Music Tech DIY Goto page Previous  1, 2, 3, 4 ... 9, 10, 11  Next [all]
Author Żłob Modular: Entropy 3hp Sample/Track\Hold Noise Out Now
BARE BONES
Great! I'll take one smile
gde
very interested in that purple heart wood!
_maker
These sound great, nice work! cool

Interested in 1 VCF pcb&panel please! will send the paypal details now.
onurkalaycioglu
so i have been shipping out orders this week, and will continue to do so tomorrow. everything will most likely be shipped out by end of this week.

some of the small text screen printing on the filter didnt come out overly legible so if you have an questions dont hesitate to ask. its mainly for the bottom left part of the main board with lots of closely spaced caps.

i mentioned it before but i will again you need capacitors with 2.5mm lead spacing and 4mm case length for the the above mentioned section of the filter board.

the cap spacing on the eq board is wider. i will post a BOM for the EQ soon.

also for those of you unfamiliar with soldering temperature sensitive parts like the matched transistor i would read the MFOS instructions.

http://www.musicfromouterspace.com/analogsynth_new/ELECTRONIC_PARTS/Ma tched2N3904_MFTempco.php

its not completely applicable. but its important that you dont overheat the matched transistor or resistor. you can use a tempco if you want, but i just use a 1% 2k resistor. theres unfortunately not enough space to make a heat shrink hood for it, but its possible i guess. i also would suggest using heat sink compound like mentioned in the MFOS article if tracking is really important to you. i use the super lube stuff.

also the 0.22uf audio in cap on the pots and jacks board for the filter isnt marked. you will also need a small profile cap for this. if anyone needs help with mouser or jameco part numbers let me know.

finally for a couple of you i couldnt find an address, so if you look in the OP and you dont see your orders shipped it might be why. i will get in touch today.
dune_Lander
Hi!

Do you still have any VCF PCBs available?

I'd like to get one and also a purpleheart front panel.

If you have any obsidian knobs, that would be great!
Please let me know the total cost.

Thanks!
onurkalaycioglu
dune_Lander wrote:
Hi!

Do you still have any VCF PCBs available?

I'd like to get one and also a purpleheart front panel.

If you have any obsidian knobs, that would be great!
Please let me know the total cost.

Thanks!


unfortunately the wood panels are not going to work, the wood turned out being too brittle. yep plenty pcbs left. im still offering navy blue on white, white on black, and mirrored silver panels. you can purchase pcbs etc, on my new "site"

zlob modular
dune_Lander
How does one specify front panel color choices?
There are no pull-downs for that that I can find on the website.

Regarding the wood,yeah, thin hardwoods can be tricky to work with. I have seen some manufacturers use bamboo, which may be a more flexible material to use.

Thanks!
windspirit
Put me down for 1 filter (with transistors), 2 eqs and 2 mixers, all just pcb + panels.
onurkalaycioglu
so not sure if people have received any pcbs yet. but here are the BOMs for the SVF motherboard, SVF control board, and the eq.

the jumper connecting the 2 boards for the svf needs to be a right angled 14 pin male header. also i guess not in the bom is a 2 pin shorting block/jumper shunt for selecting different resonance settings. also i suggest using dip sockets for the ICs...

one thing to take note of is the high band pot for the eq is b500k, every other pot for these pcbs are b100k.

all the jacks are thonkiconn type and pots are alpha 9mm vertical mount or equivalent profile

the attenumixer is 3 pots, 3 resistors, and 7 jacks. you can use either linear or log pots, and you can use either 100k pots with 100k resistors, or 50k pots with 47k resistors(50k would be better).

again if you have any questions, let me know here or through PM.





robot909
Alright! Got my filter panel/pcb/trans set. Even made my day better that my Sputnik quad trigger source arrived as well.

I wasn't aware that there is a protective coating on the panel that needs to be peeled off. Looked kind of "how ya doing?" at first, then peeled off the protective shit and wow! Beautiful color and lots of detail! Nice!

Oh btw, what value are the cutoff,resonance and cv pots? thumbs up
robot909
Are the schematics for the filter available?
mckenic
I must (embarrassingly) admit I was a little meh about the panels, although I DO like the burnt look... until reading robot909's post.

very frustrating

After peeling off the protection (miss the burns now!) - WOW! Super stunning detail! MAN you must have a KILLER etching/laser/whatever system! Never had anything with this much sharp and artful detail! Took an age to get the coating off there is so much detail in there. Next ones Imna put in a sink of warm water & let em float off hihi

These are SUPER impressive and a PERFECT contrast if your worried about legibility! Absolutely 10/10 applause

Thank you!

The crappy iPad pic cant do them justice - razor sharp in person! Woo Hoo!!!

robot909
Ok, looking at the Thomas Henry site, all front panel pots are 100K

Here is the link to that page which also includes schematics.

http://www.birthofasynth.com/Thomas_Henry/Pages/VCF-1.html
onurkalaycioglu
yep b100k for the filter. i mentioned it in the response with the boms, that every pot is b100k besides the high band b500k pot for the eq. sorry should have left that info on the board. henrys bom is a lot more organized for the filter if thats easier for anyone.

i thought i mentioned it but you guys figured it out with the protective coating. i pick most of the larger tape sections off by hand and then use a towel to rub off the rest of the finer lasered tape. i also use rubbing alcohol and a soft towel to get any other residue off the panels. that will be especially helpful for the people with mirrored panels which kinda smudge easily.

thanks everyone for the compliments on the panels. i know everyones against the non-aluminum panels but when you mount them to the pcb they are rock solid. and i kind of like being part of the panel making process too. ha i actually only use a 30 watt laser cutter so its anything but killer. good laser cutters are 100+ watts, so i put a bit of time into cutting these panels. glad you appreciate them.
cupwise
got mine today, a good mix of, i think all colors (and mirrored). agree with the others that they look great, when you get the covering off! and i tried the idea the earlier poster had about soaking in water, seems to have worked pretty good. just had to soak them for a while, then rubbed with my thumb to get off any that was left, not a big deal. doing it without the water did seem like it'd be difficult. anyway now i cant wait to get the components and make these things (although i have to fill out mouser carts for several other projects before i can) and see them in my case!
onurkalaycioglu
not sure if i can condone the water soaking method as i havent tried it myself. but it should be fine. i did try goo be gone recently and it worked pretty well getting the protective tape off. its actually quite hard to scratch the two tone panels unless you are really trying to. i just rub most of the tape off by scrubbing the panel with a towel, like i said rubbing alcohol helps too.

so not sure how far people have gotten soldering things up. but this is how the headers are supposed to go between boards for the svf. sorry theres no build docs yet. i did talk to thonk about carrying the svf and eq, maybe mr monobass can make a nice build doc one day. dont hesitate to pm me or ask in the thread if you have questions about assembly or part #s.

also i know the chassis pads for the pots are kinda hard to solder, i suggest using a flux pen. the newer rev of boards i just ordered have a more substantial pad, a la tombola.




Zaibach
PCBs and panels arrived safe and sound in germany. Still need to wait for some part before I can finish them....

I got rid of the panel coating just with my fingernails and some patience...
onurkalaycioglu
Zaibach wrote:
PCBs and panels arrived safe and sound in germany. Still need to wait for some part before I can finish them....

I got rid of the panel coating just with my fingernails and some patience...


glad they arrived safe. ha yea, i use my fingernails too. it can be tedious sometimes, but it works.

on another note im not sure how far people have gotten soldering boards but i came to a realization today(with help from a friend) about the resonance on the filter. theres a jumper on the filter for selecting resonance where one setting is the rez pot straight to ground and another setting is for the pot in series with a 47ohm resistor like in mr henrys schematic. i messed with values today and found that you can get pretty close to a sine wave self oscillation at around 72 ohms. its not a completely stable sine in all registers but its a change that could be useful to some people. as the other rez values settings are trapezoid waves, which i personally think sounds better. but i know everyone is all about the self oscillating svf sine wave.

so instead of putting a 47 ohm resistor in, you can put a 68 ohm or 75 ohm resistor. or a better option is to put a 100ohm trim pot to dial in your desired resonance/sine shape.
horstronic
I just built the EQ and it works as it should, but I can't get the nuts on the jacks on, the panel is just too thick...
Is there any hint on how to fit these?
I'm using thonkiconn jacks as suggested and I tried both, hex and knurled nuts.
Thanks!
Grumskiz
horstronic wrote:
I just built the EQ and it works as it should, but I can't get the nuts on the jacks on, the panel is just too thick...
Is there any hint on how to fit these?
I'm using thonkiconn jacks as suggested and I tried both, hex and knurled nuts.
Thanks!


I had the same problem on the VCF I finished today. I could not get the original knurled nuts from thonk onto the jacks. So I used some other nuts I had lying around that were more flat and had a better grip. But even with those it was very difficult to tighten them onto the panel. So if you have some nuts leftover from a different type of jack, give them a try.

€dit:
Since I'm talking about the VCF anyway:
It works and sounds great! I especially enjoy the LP and HP sound with high resonance.
The build is fairly easy, just watch out to not accidently create short between closely placed components.
Instead of the 2SA798 I used a hand matched pair of 2SA733 PNPs. This seems to work very well.
I love the panel graphics but I as I said earlier the thickness of the panel can be a problem.
Also my panel seems to be about 2mm too short for my rack. However, the screw holes do in fact align with the mounting rails, so it's all good.
onurkalaycioglu
That's really weird. I've never had a problem and I've assembled 40 or so modules. I get my jacks from erthenvar though. I assumed they were the same as thonkicon jacks. They have the same exact footprint. Erthenvar calls them in line jacks though. Maybe thonk sells different nuts from erthenvar. Can one of you guys from Europe measure your knurled nuts. Maybe I can send you guys with problems erthenvar nuts.
Grumskiz
I guess there is also the possibility that your jacks are slightly higher. I don't have any calipers so I can't make any precise measurements :(
horstronic
Grumskiz wrote:
I guess there is also the possibility that your jacks are slightly higher. I don't have any calipers so I can't make any precise measurements :(


Yes, that's the problem.
I just measured it, the thread of the thonkiconns is 4mm long, whereas the thread on the erthenvar jacks is 4.5mm (according to the pictures on their site).
The nuts I'm using are 1.4mm thick.
Damnit...
onurkalaycioglu
Crap I'm sorry had no idea. I can send you and whoever else some thinner nuts. As it seemed to solve the problem for grumskiz. I am in negotiations with metal photo Cincinnati so there will be aluminum panels eventually. Also been talking to synthcube and there might be clarke panels one day.
euromorcego
Grumskiz wrote:
horstronic wrote:
I just built the EQ and it works as it should, but I can't get the nuts on the jacks on, the panel is just too thick...
Is there any hint on how to fit these?
I'm using thonkiconn jacks as suggested and I tried both, hex and knurled nuts.
Thanks!


I had the same problem on the VCF I finished today. I could not get the original knurled nuts from thonk onto the jacks. So I used some other nuts I had lying around that were more flat and had a better grip. But even with those it was very difficult to tighten them onto the panel. So if you have some nuts leftover from a different type of jack, give them a try.

try to drill out a bit on the back of the panel. The jack (many) have a little bulge on top. So if the hole on the back side is a little bit wider they will fit much better and the nut will fit comfortably. I use a grinding tool like this one (random google search): http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/51Q0GPY4VTL._SY300_.jpg
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