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Żłób Modular:NEW WEBSITE and Now Stocking Right Angle Cables
MUFF WIGGLER Forum Index -> Music Tech DIY  
Author Żłób Modular:NEW WEBSITE and Now Stocking Right Angle Cables
onurkalaycioglu
Fully Built Modules, PCBs, Kits, BOMs, and Demos are at my "site"

Zlob Modular

clock divider and vca info is on the 4th page, s/h info is on 7th page...

A couple disclaimers:
first off, if you're in europe thonk only sells jacks for these builds that have 4mm threads which isn't quite long enough for a 1/8" thick panel. wigglers have found ways around it further down in the thread. thonk must specially order 4mm thread length, because stock jacks are 4.5mm from qingpu. you can get the correct 4.5mm inline jacks from erthenvar.

second, the svf is a complicated/intermediate build i.e. its not for beginners. it requires a good iron tip, at least .020" core solder and a magnifying glass doesn't hurt for soldering the 2sa798 matched transistor pair

third, the svf uses caps with 2.5mm lead spacing and 4mm case length. so you need small caps in most instances.




First is a charismatic compact(4hp)state variable filter based on a thomas henry design.

$20 for pcbs+ panel
2sa798 matched transistor pair $3.50(needed for the filter)

second is a simple,4hp, 3 band equalizer with boost or cut of high, mid, and low bands based on another thomas henry design.

$10 pcb + panel

Third is a 4hp passive attenumixer. The 3 channels are normalled to a sum for cv and audio mixing or individual use as attenuators.

$10 pcb + panel







all the components are through hole and easily sourced from most any electronics supplier. The only rare(harder to solder) part is the 2sa798 matched transistor pair for the filter. id prefer you source your own transistors from ebay. they cost $2.99 each plus $2 shipping but they come on the slow boat from china....

Full kits: pcbs/components/panel etc
Th vcf:$80
Th eq:$40
Attenumix:$30



There's more info,pics, demos in the euro thread.
Zlob modular thread
Zaibach
This is great! Really like the panel design cool I would like to sign up for

2x equalizer pcbs + panels
1x filter pcb set + panel
EDIT: and also the trannies for ther filter!
sammy123
Well I'll definitely take a filter pcb/panel/matched tranny set.
ABC
filter pcb/panel/transistors for me
smcumber
Good work man, onurkalaycioglu / keven is a stand-up dude.
SoundPool
I'd find the filter of particular interest
onurkalaycioglu
smcumber wrote:
Good work man, onurkalaycioglu / keven is a stand-up dude.


Thanks Sam and zaibach. I failed to mention the 2sa798s will cost $3 each. Also shipping should be around $3-5 for USA. $8~ for Canada and $10~ for off the continent.

Also depending on quantity ordered, boards might not be in until mid August. As oshpark has around a 3 week turnaround for large orders.

For panels I've also been thinkin of using this silver mirrored acrylic as I've had success with it for panels in the past.

Silver mirrored

but if you want the navy blue and white that's fine. First run came out a little too wiardy. Gotta experiment with some different colors/aesthetics. Technically I can do whatever color acrylic you want but it will cost a little more per panel because I can't stock every color. But you can check inventables website for acrylic colors if you so choose. I only cut 1/8" or 3mm acrylic.
gde
Interested in at least one vcf and eq pcb
horstronic
Sounds good, I might get a filter and an EQ!
spneca
I'm in for full kits of VCF and Attenumix.
Zaibach
onurkalaycioglu wrote:

For panels I've also been thinkin of using this silver mirrored acrylic as I've had success with it for panels in the past.

Silver mirrored



Ooh, that also looks very interesting. I'll wait and see which panels you have in stock when you're about to ship - you don't have to make a custom panel just for me hihi
White on blue is fine for now cool
geecen
I'm in for a panel and PCB of the filter with matched transistors.

applause
a100user
Interested in full kits for filter and attenumixer
acilator
Interest in the VCF & EQ
mckenic
I think a stereo EQ and filter with trannys all with panels would be very interesting!

(oops forgot to add - Id MUCH rather the silver panel)
onurkalaycioglu
so i put up a list of people who want pcbs/etc. I'm going to need a monetary commitment in a couple days, as I'm going to place the order. but i will let you guys know the final cost of pcbs soon. please let me know if you're in or out of the buy.
mckenic
thumbs up
a100user
Still would like the two kits mentioned, filter and attenumixer kits thumbs up
onurkalaycioglu
so im going to place the pcb order soon. turns out oshpark is way too expensive for a large run. so unfortunately im having to outsource to china. hopefully that doesnt change peoples minds that wanted boards in the first place. not much should be different besides not having enig finish and now i can get different colors of boards. key points are im able to charge less for the filter pcbs now and the turnaround time should be a little more than 2 weeks as opposed to more than a month from oshpark.

so heres the prices

$20 for filter pcbs+ panel,

$3.50 for 2sa798 matcher transistor pair(needed for the filter)
(or you can source them yourself from ebay, but they are $2.99 each plus $2 shipping from china)

$15 for eq+ panel

$15 for attenumix + panel

for kits
filter $80
eq $40
attenumix $30

so far ive only heard from a few people on the list. if you are serious and ready to pay. you can paypal me at kevenkalay@gmail.com. you pay the fees... make sure you add your appropriate shipping cost to the total. im going to wait until monday the 27th to place the order so theres still time to order/pay.
sammy123
Oh sorry I thought you were going to pm me. What is shipping to Milwaukee?
Zaibach
Payment sent!
geecen
Still in for panel and pcbs for filter and would like the transistors if you still have them left! I'll send the payment when I get in tomorrow as I'm not at home ATM.

I'm in the UK, so it would be $20 + $3 + $10 + fee

Thanks
onurkalaycioglu
sammy123 wrote:
Oh sorry I thought you were going to pm me. What is shipping to Milwaukee?


shipping is $5 USA, $8 Canada, $10 Worldwide. but this is for no tracking shipping pcbs+panels.

people that want full kits it will be $7-10 shipping in USA with tracking, outside the country kits pm me, tracking is really expensive sending internationally although ive had many transactions with european wigglers with no problems sending things back and forth without it.

geecen wrote:
Still in for panel and pcbs for filter and would like the transistors if you still have them left! I'll send the payment when I get in tomorrow as I'm not at home ATM.

I'm in the UK, so it would be $20 + $3 + $10 + fee

Thanks


yep thats right, i guess i can sell the transistors to the first 8 people that pay because thats all i have. but i would still prefer you buy them yourself.

zaibach wrote:
Payment sent!

thanks

heres the rough bom for the filter.
Picture file

other things youll need are right angle male headers to connect the 2 pcbs and normal headers for the power connector and resonance normal/max, 9mm vertical mount pots, and thonkiconn style jacks. and i use a lm13700 instead of 2 3080s. i dont use tempcos because they are too expensive and it doesnt necessarily matter too much for a filter tracking 1/v oct using a 2k 1% resistor. also i use closer pitch capacitor pads on the filter board to maximize space. but im getting ahead of myself a bit, i can open up a build thread once we get there...
sammy123
Payment sent. Thanks mate.
mckenic
Thanks for this!
thumbs up
geecen
Payment sent cool

Forgot to put my muff user name in the notes though! It's the payment from normand (dot) gregory (at) googlemai (dot) com

hyper
mckenic
Umm... I think I forgot to add my address in the payment details - or are we at that stage even :-)
robot909
Alright, sent paypal for filter pcb+panel and 2sa798. thumbs up
onurkalaycioglu
geecen wrote:
Payment sent cool

Forgot to put my muff user name in the notes though! It's the payment from normand (dot) gregory (at) googlemai (dot) com

hyper


mckenic wrote:
Umm... I think I forgot to add my address in the payment details - or are we at that stage even :-)


Ha. Yea I forgot to be more specific and say put your muffs name and address in the paypal comment. But I will get in touch with those you with discrepencies when the time comes. But it wouldnt hurt if both of you clarified who you are virtually and otherwise and added your addresses.
onurkalaycioglu
Last call if you want pcbs/panels/kits or to preorder any fully built modules
Morbid
onurkalaycioglu wrote:
Last call if you want pcbs/panels/kits or to preorder any fully built modules


I'am in for one Filter set.
Pcb's + Panel + matched transistor pair.

and one set of the equalizer.
Pcb + Panel.

w00t

PS:
Really love the panel design.
DJBRUTAL
If it's not too late I would like:

1x Filter PCB+panel+2sa798
1x Attenumix PCB+panel

Please PM me the total shipped to USA.

Thanks!
onurkalaycioglu
thanks a lot to everyone for the orders and support. This pcb run is really helping Zlob(pronounced Zwub)become a sustainable endeavor. I placed the pcb order yesterday like promised. This board house supposedly has a 17 day ish turnaround including shipping. But they are coming from china dhl. So I would expect to get them mid next month. It's still possible to place an order for any of the pcbs/panels etc as I will have some extra.
onurkalaycioglu
boards are coming in sooner than expected(this thursday). so i have a lot of panels to start cranking out. who wants what? im going to offer the navy blue and white ones like last run, mirrored silver(linked to earlier in the thread) and im also going to do a couple hard woods.

have yet to experiment with the wood ones, but i think they should look pretty cool. im going with paduak and purpleheart. they should look something like these when engraved.

let me know the specific material of panel you want. sooner than later is better..



PolarIceCaves
pm'd for eq and paying now just want to add to this thread

2x eq full kit
purpleheart hardwood

SlayerBadger!
a100user
Original Blue for me please on both thumbs up
geecen
Blue please.

cool
DJBRUTAL
Padauk panels please.
mckenic
I'd LOVE Mirrored silver please!

Thats this one right?
spneca
Mirrored silver, please.
SoundPool
purpleheart filter would be grand.
onurkalaycioglu
mckenic wrote:
I'd LOVE Mirrored silver please!

Thats this one right?


thats actually white on black. i can do that for you as i still have some material left
Zaibach
Very interesting options, but I'll stick with white on blue cool Thank you!
mckenic
Oh - thanks so much onurkalaycioglu!
Whatever is easiest for you - silver or the white would be great!
(the higher the contrast, the easier for me to see/use)

thumbs up
Thanks again!
DJBRUTAL
If the white on black is an option, I would prefer that to the Padauk. Either works though. Thanks!
onurkalaycioglu
mckenic wrote:
Oh - thanks so much onurkalaycioglu!
Whatever is easiest for you - silver or the white would be great!
(the higher the contrast, the easier for me to see/use)

thumbs up
Thanks again!


yea no problem mckenic.

DJBRUTAL wrote:
If the white on black is an option, I would prefer that to the Padauk. Either works though. Thanks!


yep i can do white on black for you too.


so boards are in. im a little bit busy this weekend. but i should start getting panels cut soon and orders shipped out next week going in order of paid. thanks a lot to everyone whos part of the buy.

Morbid
Blue panel for me please.
BARE BONES
that filter looks great, how much for shipping to the UK?
robot909
Blue is fine here. But not that big of a deal. Just send random colored panels to people. Its all about the sound.


onurkalaycioglu
BARE BONES wrote:
that filter looks great, how much for shipping to the UK?


Pcb/panel will cost $10 to uk. If you want a kit or fully built, will cost a couple $ more.

robot909 wrote:
Blue is fine here. But not that big of a deal. Just send random colored panels to people. Its all about the sound.


Ha
BARE BONES
Great! I'll take one smile
gde
very interested in that purple heart wood!
_maker
These sound great, nice work! cool

Interested in 1 VCF pcb&panel please! will send the paypal details now.
onurkalaycioglu
so i have been shipping out orders this week, and will continue to do so tomorrow. everything will most likely be shipped out by end of this week.

some of the small text screen printing on the filter didnt come out overly legible so if you have an questions dont hesitate to ask. its mainly for the bottom left part of the main board with lots of closely spaced caps.

i mentioned it before but i will again you need capacitors with 2.5mm lead spacing and 4mm case length for the the above mentioned section of the filter board.

the cap spacing on the eq board is wider. i will post a BOM for the EQ soon.

also for those of you unfamiliar with soldering temperature sensitive parts like the matched transistor i would read the MFOS instructions.

http://www.musicfromouterspace.com/analogsynth_new/ELECTRONIC_PARTS/Ma tched2N3904_MFTempco.php

its not completely applicable. but its important that you dont overheat the matched transistor or resistor. you can use a tempco if you want, but i just use a 1% 2k resistor. theres unfortunately not enough space to make a heat shrink hood for it, but its possible i guess. i also would suggest using heat sink compound like mentioned in the MFOS article if tracking is really important to you. i use the super lube stuff.

also the 0.22uf audio in cap on the pots and jacks board for the filter isnt marked. you will also need a small profile cap for this. if anyone needs help with mouser or jameco part numbers let me know.

finally for a couple of you i couldnt find an address, so if you look in the OP and you dont see your orders shipped it might be why. i will get in touch today.
dune_Lander
Hi!

Do you still have any VCF PCBs available?

I'd like to get one and also a purpleheart front panel.

If you have any obsidian knobs, that would be great!
Please let me know the total cost.

Thanks!
onurkalaycioglu
dune_Lander wrote:
Hi!

Do you still have any VCF PCBs available?

I'd like to get one and also a purpleheart front panel.

If you have any obsidian knobs, that would be great!
Please let me know the total cost.

Thanks!


unfortunately the wood panels are not going to work, the wood turned out being too brittle. yep plenty pcbs left. im still offering navy blue on white, white on black, and mirrored silver panels. you can purchase pcbs etc, on my new "site"

zlob modular
dune_Lander
How does one specify front panel color choices?
There are no pull-downs for that that I can find on the website.

Regarding the wood,yeah, thin hardwoods can be tricky to work with. I have seen some manufacturers use bamboo, which may be a more flexible material to use.

Thanks!
windspirit
Put me down for 1 filter (with transistors), 2 eqs and 2 mixers, all just pcb + panels.
onurkalaycioglu
so not sure if people have received any pcbs yet. but here are the BOMs for the SVF motherboard, SVF control board, and the eq.

the jumper connecting the 2 boards for the svf needs to be a right angled 14 pin male header. also i guess not in the bom is a 2 pin shorting block/jumper shunt for selecting different resonance settings. also i suggest using dip sockets for the ICs...

one thing to take note of is the high band pot for the eq is b500k, every other pot for these pcbs are b100k.

all the jacks are thonkiconn type and pots are alpha 9mm vertical mount or equivalent profile

the attenumixer is 3 pots, 3 resistors, and 7 jacks. you can use either linear or log pots, and you can use either 100k pots with 100k resistors, or 50k pots with 47k resistors(50k would be better).

again if you have any questions, let me know here or through PM.





robot909
Alright! Got my filter panel/pcb/trans set. Even made my day better that my Sputnik quad trigger source arrived as well.

I wasn't aware that there is a protective coating on the panel that needs to be peeled off. Looked kind of "how ya doing?" at first, then peeled off the protective shit and wow! Beautiful color and lots of detail! Nice!

Oh btw, what value are the cutoff,resonance and cv pots? thumbs up
robot909
Are the schematics for the filter available?
mckenic
I must (embarrassingly) admit I was a little meh about the panels, although I DO like the burnt look... until reading robot909's post.

very frustrating

After peeling off the protection (miss the burns now!) - WOW! Super stunning detail! MAN you must have a KILLER etching/laser/whatever system! Never had anything with this much sharp and artful detail! Took an age to get the coating off there is so much detail in there. Next ones Imna put in a sink of warm water & let em float off hihi

These are SUPER impressive and a PERFECT contrast if your worried about legibility! Absolutely 10/10 applause

Thank you!

The crappy iPad pic cant do them justice - razor sharp in person! Woo Hoo!!!

robot909
Ok, looking at the Thomas Henry site, all front panel pots are 100K

Here is the link to that page which also includes schematics.

http://www.birthofasynth.com/Thomas_Henry/Pages/VCF-1.html
onurkalaycioglu
yep b100k for the filter. i mentioned it in the response with the boms, that every pot is b100k besides the high band b500k pot for the eq. sorry should have left that info on the board. henrys bom is a lot more organized for the filter if thats easier for anyone.

i thought i mentioned it but you guys figured it out with the protective coating. i pick most of the larger tape sections off by hand and then use a towel to rub off the rest of the finer lasered tape. i also use rubbing alcohol and a soft towel to get any other residue off the panels. that will be especially helpful for the people with mirrored panels which kinda smudge easily.

thanks everyone for the compliments on the panels. i know everyones against the non-aluminum panels but when you mount them to the pcb they are rock solid. and i kind of like being part of the panel making process too. ha i actually only use a 30 watt laser cutter so its anything but killer. good laser cutters are 100+ watts, so i put a bit of time into cutting these panels. glad you appreciate them.
cupwise
got mine today, a good mix of, i think all colors (and mirrored). agree with the others that they look great, when you get the covering off! and i tried the idea the earlier poster had about soaking in water, seems to have worked pretty good. just had to soak them for a while, then rubbed with my thumb to get off any that was left, not a big deal. doing it without the water did seem like it'd be difficult. anyway now i cant wait to get the components and make these things (although i have to fill out mouser carts for several other projects before i can) and see them in my case!
onurkalaycioglu
not sure if i can condone the water soaking method as i havent tried it myself. but it should be fine. i did try goo be gone recently and it worked pretty well getting the protective tape off. its actually quite hard to scratch the two tone panels unless you are really trying to. i just rub most of the tape off by scrubbing the panel with a towel, like i said rubbing alcohol helps too.

so not sure how far people have gotten soldering things up. but this is how the headers are supposed to go between boards for the svf. sorry theres no build docs yet. i did talk to thonk about carrying the svf and eq, maybe mr monobass can make a nice build doc one day. dont hesitate to pm me or ask in the thread if you have questions about assembly or part #s.

also i know the chassis pads for the pots are kinda hard to solder, i suggest using a flux pen. the newer rev of boards i just ordered have a more substantial pad, a la tombola.




Zaibach
PCBs and panels arrived safe and sound in germany. Still need to wait for some part before I can finish them....

I got rid of the panel coating just with my fingernails and some patience...
onurkalaycioglu
Zaibach wrote:
PCBs and panels arrived safe and sound in germany. Still need to wait for some part before I can finish them....

I got rid of the panel coating just with my fingernails and some patience...


glad they arrived safe. ha yea, i use my fingernails too. it can be tedious sometimes, but it works.

on another note im not sure how far people have gotten soldering boards but i came to a realization today(with help from a friend) about the resonance on the filter. theres a jumper on the filter for selecting resonance where one setting is the rez pot straight to ground and another setting is for the pot in series with a 47ohm resistor like in mr henrys schematic. i messed with values today and found that you can get pretty close to a sine wave self oscillation at around 72 ohms. its not a completely stable sine in all registers but its a change that could be useful to some people. as the other rez values settings are trapezoid waves, which i personally think sounds better. but i know everyone is all about the self oscillating svf sine wave.

so instead of putting a 47 ohm resistor in, you can put a 68 ohm or 75 ohm resistor. or a better option is to put a 100ohm trim pot to dial in your desired resonance/sine shape.
horstronic
I just built the EQ and it works as it should, but I can't get the nuts on the jacks on, the panel is just too thick...
Is there any hint on how to fit these?
I'm using thonkiconn jacks as suggested and I tried both, hex and knurled nuts.
Thanks!
Grumskiz
horstronic wrote:
I just built the EQ and it works as it should, but I can't get the nuts on the jacks on, the panel is just too thick...
Is there any hint on how to fit these?
I'm using thonkiconn jacks as suggested and I tried both, hex and knurled nuts.
Thanks!


I had the same problem on the VCF I finished today. I could not get the original knurled nuts from thonk onto the jacks. So I used some other nuts I had lying around that were more flat and had a better grip. But even with those it was very difficult to tighten them onto the panel. So if you have some nuts leftover from a different type of jack, give them a try.

€dit:
Since I'm talking about the VCF anyway:
It works and sounds great! I especially enjoy the LP and HP sound with high resonance.
The build is fairly easy, just watch out to not accidently create short between closely placed components.
Instead of the 2SA798 I used a hand matched pair of 2SA733 PNPs. This seems to work very well.
I love the panel graphics but I as I said earlier the thickness of the panel can be a problem.
Also my panel seems to be about 2mm too short for my rack. However, the screw holes do in fact align with the mounting rails, so it's all good.
onurkalaycioglu
That's really weird. I've never had a problem and I've assembled 40 or so modules. I get my jacks from erthenvar though. I assumed they were the same as thonkicon jacks. They have the same exact footprint. Erthenvar calls them in line jacks though. Maybe thonk sells different nuts from erthenvar. Can one of you guys from Europe measure your knurled nuts. Maybe I can send you guys with problems erthenvar nuts.
Grumskiz
I guess there is also the possibility that your jacks are slightly higher. I don't have any calipers so I can't make any precise measurements :(
horstronic
Grumskiz wrote:
I guess there is also the possibility that your jacks are slightly higher. I don't have any calipers so I can't make any precise measurements :(


Yes, that's the problem.
I just measured it, the thread of the thonkiconns is 4mm long, whereas the thread on the erthenvar jacks is 4.5mm (according to the pictures on their site).
The nuts I'm using are 1.4mm thick.
Damnit...
onurkalaycioglu
Crap I'm sorry had no idea. I can send you and whoever else some thinner nuts. As it seemed to solve the problem for grumskiz. I am in negotiations with metal photo Cincinnati so there will be aluminum panels eventually. Also been talking to synthcube and there might be clarke panels one day.
euromorcego
Grumskiz wrote:
horstronic wrote:
I just built the EQ and it works as it should, but I can't get the nuts on the jacks on, the panel is just too thick...
Is there any hint on how to fit these?
I'm using thonkiconn jacks as suggested and I tried both, hex and knurled nuts.
Thanks!


I had the same problem on the VCF I finished today. I could not get the original knurled nuts from thonk onto the jacks. So I used some other nuts I had lying around that were more flat and had a better grip. But even with those it was very difficult to tighten them onto the panel. So if you have some nuts leftover from a different type of jack, give them a try.

try to drill out a bit on the back of the panel. The jack (many) have a little bulge on top. So if the hole on the back side is a little bit wider they will fit much better and the nut will fit comfortably. I use a grinding tool like this one (random google search): http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/51Q0GPY4VTL._SY300_.jpg
horstronic
onurkalaycioglu wrote:
Crap I'm sorry had no idea. I can send you and whoever else some thinner nuts. As it seemed to solve the problem for grumskiz. I am in negotiations with metal photo Cincinnati so there will be aluminum panels eventually. Also been talking to synthcube and there might be clarke panels one day.


Don't worry, I found a better way, at least for me.
I had some kobiconn clones lying around, which also have a longer thread.
After cutting away the solder lugs, they fit perfectly thumbs up
Grumskiz
I took a picture of my build where you can see the placement of the two 2SA733 PNPs. They are joined together on their emitter leads. The pinout of a 2SA798 is BCECB. Keep that in mind if you want to replace it with something else. The pinout of the 2SA733 is ECB which works well in this application.
My approach was to first find a closely matched pair and then join the emitter leads close to the plastic package of the transistors. I then cut one of the emitter leads of so I am left with a 5 pin contraption. Not beautiful, but it works.



€dit:
I just went over Thomas Henry's original design and noticed he used a 2K tempco instead of a standard 2K resistor. I'm not going to change my build, but I was wondering whether there is a 2K tempco in the offical zlob modular TH SVFs?
Also I have a feeling that having all decoupling caps in one corner of the PCB is not ideal :S

Also I only get very faint self-oscillation when no input is present. Could there be a fault in my build somewhere around the resonance feedback path? Or is this normal behaviour?
onurkalaycioglu
Nice that's great hand matched transistors worked out for you. No I don't use tempcos. They are too expensive and i never had huge drift issues using a metal film resistor instead. Yea the decoupling caps should obviously be closer to all the power pins but when I was routing it, I just couldn't get it to work that way. The whole svf mother board definitely needs an entire revision, re routing. That board is actually the first pcb I ever made so it is a bit sloppy. I would never claim to be an engineer, just a diy enthusiast.

As far as the self oscillation it should be an over 10v pp trapezoid wave at max jumper setting with nothing present. But you do have to get it in the sweet spot to start the full oscillation. What resistor value did you use for resonance? In your pic youre in the less resonance position. It's labelled on the board bottom position is max with the Rez pot going straight to ground. I've never had resonance issues i do 1v/oct trimming on every filter before I send them out using the self oscillation with no input present.
Grumskiz
onurkalaycioglu wrote:

As far as the self oscillation it should be an over 10v pp trapezoid wave at max jumper setting with nothing present. But you do have to get it in the sweet spot to start the full oscillation. What resistor value did you use for resonance? In your pic youre in the less resonance position. It's labelled on the board bottom position is max with the Rez pot going straight to ground. I've never had resonance issues i do 1v/oct trimming on every filter before I send them out using the self oscillation with no input present.


I currently don't have a scope handy, but the output of the module at full resonance (with no input!) is very quiet. What sweet spot are you talking about and which resistor is the resonance resistor?
I have tried both jumper positions and don't notice much of a difference. I have also tried replacing the LM13600 with an LM13700. Also no change.

With an input present the resonance works as I would expect it to.
onurkalaycioglu
thats really strange. i just tested 2 different svfs from my old oshpark first run of prototypes and they have a quiet self resonance problem too. i looked at the 2 quiet ones on the scope and it sounds soft because they are low amplitude sine waves which seems to grow in amplitude with cutoff settings ending in the clipped sine, trap wave.

but you have the same black boards as i do with the most recent run and the loud resonance. the only visible difference between looking at the 2 quiet osh parks vs my black ones vs yours is the capacitors. which the 10pf and 330pf caps your using could be the problem. your transistor solution could also be effecting it. but the past 10 svfs ive made have had huge self resonance.

the resonance resistor is the 47ohm one which is engaged with jumper in left position, but that attenuates the rez. which it should be loudest with the pot to ground at max, right position.

not sure what the exact solution is, as you know this isnt my design. and i dont think mr henry or stites covets this filter as a capable vco or amazing self oscillating filter. there are solutions to the resonance problems for yours and otherwise with mine and the perfect sine jumper selection but it requires more circuitry and as you soldered and know the board is packed. the next rev will have a trim pot most likely to select your desired resonance, but that wouldnt solve your problem anyway...
robot909
In case any new DIY'ers are thinking about doing this project. Don't do it.

It requires mid to high DIY skills. The components are really tight together and you have to go in there with a head magnifier to solder stuff. Also you need a really small soldering iron tip and steady hands.

I'm almost done with my build, need a few capacitors.

The small footprint (width HP) makes it really hard to solder components. Also the capacitors, not being 5mm (or whatever wide) makes it harder.

The main transistor has really small solder points, so your iron has be super thin.

I have completed many diy builds, but I would not recommend it to a person starting to do DIY...
onurkalaycioglu
robot909 wrote:
In case any new DIY'ers are thinking about doing this project. Don't do it.

It requires mid to high DIY skills. The components are really tight together and you have to go in there with a head magnifier to solder stuff. Also you need a really small soldering iron tip and steady hands.

I'm almost done with my build, need a few capacitors.

The small footprint (width HP) makes it really hard to solder components. Also the capacitors, not being 5mm (or whatever wide) makes it harder.

The main transistor has really small solder points, so your iron has be super thin.

I have completed many diy builds, but I would not recommend it to a person starting to do DIY...



I totally agree the svf is definitely an intermediate build. I never tried to hide the fact the matched transistor was hard to solder. It's been in the op from the beginning. The key to builds like this, at least for me is having thin solder, I use .02" core. A flux pen would also be useful for the matched trans.

If you're a beginner the attenumixer would be a relatively easy build. I guess in difficulty it goes att, eq, svf. Let me know how your self resonance works out when you finish it.

I guess it's naive to think people know what they are getting themselves into. And I should put some disclaimers in the op. But with a 4hp module with that many features and complexity it's not exactly easy to make it completely diy friendly in 4hp unless I go smd. Which I don't want to do because it makes it even more unfriendly and difficult.

Gotta bear with me. I'm just starting out and I'm new to offering diy boards. I will start updating the original post with recent qualms and other unforeseen problems. I'm here to offer as much support as I can...

Ha if you don't like tight parts wait till you see the 2hp clock divider. The only smd part is the ic. So lots of tightly packed through hole resistors. It's definitely another intermediate build not a lot of room for error... I built the first prototype the other day and it works great so far. Gotta do some more beta testing. But the way things have been going here lately hesitant on offering that diy.
robot909
Well, I should add that as I'm getting older my vision isn't getting any better... Dead Banana

Probably why I'm complaing. Keep up the great work!
Shoggoth
The panel designs on these are gorgeous. Love the ornate style.
onurkalaycioglu
robot909 wrote:
Well, I should add that as I'm getting older my vision isn't getting any better... Dead Banana

Probably why I'm complaing. Keep up the great work!


thanks. ha yea not the most legible pcbs because everything is so packed together, along with not the best screen printing. the font for parts on the new divider is even smaller...

speaking of that i can offer kits and boards for the 2hp clock divider now that knobcon stress is over. it is yet another intermediate/advanced build although not as many components as the filter and it does have only one smd part which is the 4040 IC.

so pm me whoever wants divider boards, i will update my site with buying options soon.

2hp clk dv- pcbs and panel- $15
kit $55
fully built $85





shoggoth wrote:
The panel designs on these are gorgeous. Love the ornate style


thanks, been talking to the metal photo Cincinnati people recently curious how these designs will translate to aluminum.
Grumskiz
I'm interested in the clock divider.
Could you provide a partial kit option that includes PCB, panel and the 4040 SMD IC?
onurkalaycioglu
Grumskiz wrote:
I'm interested in the clock divider.
Could you provide a partial kit option that includes PCB, panel and the 4040 SMD IC?


yea sure but the ic is only 45 cents from mouser, i assume you could find the same chip for similar price from rapid or another european distributor. but it has to be the smd 4040 that runs on up to 15volts. its this one

mouser 4040 smd ic

also since youre in europe i can sell you proper thread length jacks for 30 cents each with kunrled nut unless you have found a good thonkicon solution with your svf.
euromorcego
the clock divider looks super useful!

I notice it is now available from the website -- so best is to order there and not with a PM? I would need a BOM though (cannot find it on the site).

Does pcb + panel mean pcb includes panel or does it have to be ordered separately (I'll go for a panel but when aluminum panels will become available and might also order one of these). And how much is shipping?
onurkalaycioglu
euromorcego wrote:
the clock divider looks super useful!

I notice it is now available from the website -- so best is to order there and not with a PM? I would need a BOM though (cannot find it on the site).

Does pcb + panel mean pcb includes panel or does it have to be ordered separately (I'll go for a panel but when aluminum panels will become available and might also order one of these). And how much is shipping?


i assume you already ordered through my site, everythings there now. alluminum panels are coming in a couple months.

also i just sent pcbs to the fab for an 8hp 6 channel vca. i will offer boards etc, after they are beta tested sometime around/after machines in music in october.

so heres some info for people building the clk dv. the value(00k) that has its first number cut off is supposed to be 100k. the resistor values 1k/2, 1k/4 etc signify the resistor value you change depending on what color leds you use. if youre using red, yellow or green 1k will be fine, although i use 2k for green. i tried to clean up the new rev of the clk dv board with some bigger text but its not possible in all areas with that size of pcb. heres the bom to make sure i dont leave anything out. pm me or post in the thread if you have questions. once again, make sure you use the 4040 chip that can operate at up to +15V


euromorcego
onurkalaycioglu wrote:
... pm me or post in the thread if you have questions. once again, make sure you use the 4040 chip that can operate at up to +15V

do you have a link for a suitable chip (mouse, farnell, anything) ... i cannot seem to find ones that operate at up +15V (most seem to be for +7V). thanks!
onurkalaycioglu
onurkalaycioglu wrote:
Grumskiz wrote:
I'm interested in the clock divider.
Could you provide a partial kit option that includes PCB, panel and the 4040 SMD IC?


yea sure but the ic is only 45 cents from mouser, i assume you could find the same chip for similar price from rapid or another european distributor. but it has to be the smd 4040 that runs on up to 15volts. its this one

mouser 4040 smd ic

also since youre in europe i can sell you proper thread length jacks for 30 cents each with kunrled nut unless you have found a good thonkicon solution with your svf.


Mouser part was a couple posts up. Maybe you didn't notice it. VnIcursal vca kits and pcb/panels are coming soon..... It's a summed 6 channel 8hp linear vca.


grilojoe
onurkalaycioglu wrote:
VnIcursal vca kits and pcb/panels are coming soon..... It's a summed 6 channel 8hp linear vca.




It's peanut butter jelly time!

This looks great
cupwise
nice!
EarlJemmings
onurkalaycioglu wrote:
Mouser part was a couple posts up. Maybe you didn't notice it. VnIcursal vca kits and pcb/panels are coming soon..... It's a summed 6 channel 8hp linear vca.



Awesome! That'll go in place of where I was planning for the A-135.
How does the mixing work? Taking from a jack will remove from the mix, or all simultaneous?
Morbid
Wow, the VCA looks super handy.
Just what I need right now.
Is it possible for u to use a more thin material for the frontpanels?
I had some problems with Thonk jacks on your VCF.
Maybe just a small amount for people who use the same jacks?
onurkalaycioglu
EarlJemmings wrote:
onurkalaycioglu wrote:
Mouser part was a couple posts up. Maybe you didn't notice it. VnIcursal vca kits and pcb/panels are coming soon..... It's a summed 6 channel 8hp linear vca.



Awesome! That'll go in place of where I was planning for the A-135.
How does the mixing work? Taking from a jack will remove from the mix, or all simultaneous?


Yea all channels are normalled to the sum. So pluggin a cable into the out of any channel will remove it from the mix. It's similar to the hex vca by intellijel. But I think mine actually sounds/works a little better. These are all ota based vcas that sound dead quite at ccw but can still push a bit of distortion without sounding crummy.

As for the thonk jacks. It's been discussed in the thread before. Thonk gets them specially made with shorter thread at 4mm. I now buy direct from qingpu the same distributor and normal thread length is 4.5mm. So you can buy jacks from me or erthenvar. There will be aluminum panels probably before the year is over. Still working out details and saving up money for MPC.
SoundPool
built the filter up today. its a tight board which can make for some frustrating moments if you don't have a good iron. not for a first DIY project but pretty straight forward. my iron was acting up so the small pads were not making things particularly fun.

on the matched transistor just flux the hell out of it and its totally painless.

for jacks I used cliff/kobiconns which was maybe where things got frustrating since the pads/holes are small. using good sharp sidecutters you can just trim the leads on the jacks in half and they fit fine, but it makes for some extra work. but the threads are long enough that they fit the acrylic panel just fine. as a suggestion on a revision I would maybe recommend sizing those up a bit though since that part of the board isn't crammed so I don't see any reason for them to be so small.

resonance works although I found that as I sweep the pitch down it gets quieter until its inaudible. I didn't get to mess with the trimmer yet though.
euromorcego
onurkalaycioglu wrote:

Mouser part was a couple posts up. Maybe you didn't notice it. [....]

ok, got it. Maybe it is a good idea to put all BOMs and part numbers into the first post. This way it is easier to find.

Two more questions: The BOM (of the div) specifies a 6K resistor. This is not a typical value (5.6K, 5.9K and 6.2K are easily available). Can it be substituted without problems?

AND: Would you have a picture of a build divider that shows the components? I wonder on which side some of the components are placed (the power header specifically).
falafelbiels


Oh shit this is beautiful! Sign me up for one of these and the divider. PCBs and panels please.
audisigil
i built the attenumix, eq, and clock divider today.

the attenumix and eq went fine, but i am not getting any response from my divider. everything seemed to be soldered correctly and i keep checking everything over, so i'm not exactly sure what's wrong. maybe i positioned the IC wrong? i soldered the dot on the top of the ic facing the same way as the dotted mark on the PCB. did i position it incorrectly?
onurkalaycioglu
SoundPool wrote:
built the filter up today. its a tight board which can make for some frustrating moments if you don't have a good iron. not for a first DIY project but pretty straight forward. my iron was acting up so the small pads were not making things particularly fun.

on the matched transistor just flux the hell out of it and its totally painless.

for jacks I used cliff/kobiconns which was maybe where things got frustrating since the pads/holes are small. using good sharp sidecutters you can just trim the leads on the jacks in half and they fit fine, but it makes for some extra work. but the threads are long enough that they fit the acrylic panel just fine. as a suggestion on a revision I would maybe recommend sizing those up a bit though since that part of the board isn't crammed so I don't see any reason for them to be so small.

resonance works although I found that as I sweep the pitch down it gets quieter until its inaudible. I didn't get to mess with the trimmer yet though.


your supposed to use the qingpu inline jacks, thats probably why you had problems. maybe you had the resonance in the trimmed position, with the jumper in the right position the resonance should be at max with no self oscillation issues if thats what youre talking about. on the old rev of the filter, the spot marked 47ohm is the trim resistor for the rez, and should be somewhere between 68-75ohm if you want a more sine like wave.

thanks mr. biels. new rev of the vca pcbs are coming in monday. it has better jack spacing and now you have the option of using the small plastic trim pots intead of knobs because its a bit tight.

audisigil wrote:

i built the attenumix, eq, and clock divider today.

the attenumix and eq went fine, but i am not getting any response from my divider. everything seemed to be soldered correctly and i keep checking everything over, so i'm not exactly sure what's wrong. maybe i positioned the IC wrong? i soldered the dot on the top of the ic facing the same way as the dotted mark on the PCB. did i position it incorrectly?


yea the dot/asterisk indicates the orientation of the chip, the screen print sorta shows where the notch goes too. i think you probably just didnt fully solder the chip to the to the pads. i would re hit every leg of the ic with your iron.
kires
euromorcego wrote:

The BOM (of the div) specifies a 6K resistor. This is not a typical value (5.6K, 5.9K and 6.2K are easily available). Can it be substituted without problems?
.


I second that, is it OK to use 5.6K / 5.9K or 6.2K ???
onurkalaycioglu
kires wrote:
euromorcego wrote:

The BOM (of the div) specifies a 6K resistor. This is not a typical value (5.6K, 5.9K and 6.2K are easily available). Can it be substituted without problems?
.


I second that, is it OK to use 5.6K / 5.9K or 6.2K ???


5.9k or 6.2k is best.

heres what the new VCA looks like. you can preorder them for %10 off through monday. everything else is %15 off. kits and panel/pcbs should be available in a couple weeks for the vca. i will try to get in a demo for this and the clk dv too. you can still get the vca with make noise style knobs if you want...


qfactor
What are the values of the pots for the vca?
Also are there any hard to get parts for it?
Thanks
DJBRUTAL
onurkalaycioglu can you still do the white panels with the black engraving?
falafelbiels
I am having a hard time buying that VCA mixer PCB+panel from your site.
Help a brotha out please..?

I really want that SlayerBadger!
Reality Checkpoint
falafelbiels wrote:
I am having a hard time buying that VCA mixer PCB+panel from your site.
Help a brotha out please..?

I really want that SlayerBadger!


Me too! help
falafelbiels
And I suppose I want the jacks too...
onurkalaycioglu
qfactor wrote:
What are the values of the pots for the vca?
Also are there any hard to get parts for it?
Thanks


pots are b10k for the vca, nope no hard to find parts, maybe besides the small footprint caps that i tend to use. but i can provide mouser part no's when needed.

yep i can still do white on black panels.

ha, sorry guys. havent put a button on my site for vca stuff because its sort of at the preorder phase, because the panels arent technically done yet for the vca. and its complicated making discount buttons with my crappy site.

but to be clear, its %15 everything besides fully built vcas, which are %10 off. so even vca pcb/panels and kits are %15 off through monday.
euromorcego
hum ... also have some difficulties with the clock divider.

It seems to work somewhat, just two outputs give no response. And the leds are not working ... i guess the latter is because of the (as yet) soldered pads.

Do i get this right: for the leds, also the little holes that align on the stacked pcb must be connected via a bit or wire (or spare resistor leg)? The are 7 of these holes.

Also: am i correct to assume that when some of the jacks work properly then the ic is ok. It either works for all, or not at all.

A picture of a soldered an functioning unit but still be very helpful, though.

EDIT: everything works now! Those little 7 jumper legs did the trick. Wonderful. .... now the only thing missing are proper aluminum panels. wink

Not the best pictures but still:

falafelbiels
Hey onurkalaycioglu,

I still cannot find that vca pcb + panel button, so I suppose it isn't there yet. Should I start panicking about my discount? hihi

Sorry to be so cheap, I just cannot let an opportunity like this pass by, right?

I want to order that divider pcb + panel and 30 minijacks too if possible...
falafelbiels
I'm in!

The Chewbacca Defense




Thanks onurkalaycioglu!

Looking forward to building these
Reality Checkpoint
falafelbiels wrote:
I'm in!

The Chewbacca Defense




Thanks onurkalaycioglu!

Looking forward to building these


Me too!

SlayerBadger!
DJBRUTAL
Payment and PM sent! screaming goo yo
onurkalaycioglu
euromorcego- glad you got you divider working. youre supposed to use single pin male headers/jumpers to connect the pcbs, but as long as they are connected thats fine. yea, the goal is to have aluminum panels by next year sometime. its not exactly cheap to get them made at MPC.

thanks everyone for their orders. the panel design is near completion, it turned out pretty different than the prototype panel, so hopefully no ones heart was set on that last design...

now the next topic is offering a panel that supports the trimmer pots and one that supports pots for knobs. im ok with offering 2 different panels, but no more than that.

so basically, theres going to be one panel with smaller 6mm~ holes for the small alpha trimmer pots and the hole to screw the standoff to the panel.
and then the second design will be for the dshaft threaded alp style pots(from mouser) with 9mm~ holes for use with make noise/mutable style rogans.
smcumber
Maybe I'm missing something, but I can't seem to find the values for the pots in the SVF (on the BOM it looks like the pot model is specified but not a value? i.e. 10k, 100k, etc.). Could anyone kindly provide this info? I'm sure I'm just missing something like a chump.... confused
smcumber
Nevermind - I found it, B100K

Keven, I'm gonna build a couple SVF's at some point. Were you still looking into aluminum panels?
onurkalaycioglu
yep it b100k, sorry if that wasnt clear. i updated the svf bom page on my site with that clarification. yea ive been in contact with metal photo Cincinnati for a couple months now but am still trying to accrue funds in order to make that leap into aluminum. once the vcas actually hit the market i think i will be able to afford mpc. so like said a couple posts up, early 2016.

also update on the vca panels: they are almost done. working out some minor lasering issues. but orders from black friday weekend should start shipping out by end of this week. i will post a pic soon of the new panel design.

also i think the 2 different panel designs should support most pots people would use for the vca. the panel for alps bigger threaded pots will work fine with standard threaded alpha pots. so i will start pm'ing people this week asking which vca panel you want, alpha trims or alps dshaft

and finally. im going to be clear, using any knobs bigger than the small rogan white make noise style are going to be a bit cramped. i suggest using the alpha trimmer pots for maximum wiggling experience.
onurkalaycioglu
heres what the final VCA panel looks like. I will post a BOM soon. I sent out half of the black friday orders today and the rest will go out tomorrow. so most of you should get your contraband by christmas or if international before the end of the year.

A limited number of VnIcursal Vca pcbs/panels, and kits will be available through Modular Addict. And a limited amount of fully built VCAs will be available through Nerd Audio while im gone on vacation as my shop will be closed. Also all other orders should be directed to my distributors.

falafelbiels
Gorgeous!

I can hardly wait...
Reality Checkpoint
Great panel!

Really looking forward to this - it might even leapfrog itself to the front of the ever growing backlog mountain!
onurkalaycioglu
thanks guys. everything was shipped out from black friday on tuesday or wednesday, so people should be getting things soon.

also, if anyone still wants vca pcbs or kits modularaddict should be getting them in tomorrow because my shops closed until jan 5th. they will have both versions of the panel, for alpha trims or for alps dshaft.

http://modularaddict.com/


heres the bom for the vca. only specific parts are the caps must be compact 2.5mm straight lead spacing and 4mm case length. im happy to provide any mouser part #s. for the headers male or female you will have cut them to appropriate sizes.

also as many of you have seen or will see. the mother board is very tight and values are kinda smushed or not right up next to a part. so take your time and study the board before you put in a part. if you have any doubts or questions email me or ask here.


sammy123
Will 100k pots work for the vca? Or is that not recommended?
onurkalaycioglu
sammy123 wrote:
Will 100k pots work for the vca? Or is that not recommended?


i wouldnt suggest it, as it would mess up(lower) the gain structure quite a bit. although if you mess with putting resistors in parallel with the 100k pot you could get somewhere but i was under the impression that messes with the curve of the pot...

but if you were only interested in using it as a vca and not as a mixer it wouldnt matter too much because with cv its going to still push the vca to around unity gain
sammy123
Thanks for the response. No problem...I went ahead and ordered the right pots.
falafelbiels
w00t

Got my package in, looks GREAT!

Thanks Keven SlayerBadger!
Reality Checkpoint
falafelbiels wrote:
w00t

Got my package in, looks GREAT!

Thanks Keven SlayerBadger!


Me too!

Thank you.
bensaddiction
Got my CLK D kit today and have already built it.

/4 isn't working on mine (leds or the actually jack. I've resoldered the pins on the jack pcb. It might be a bit hard to separate and have a look at the main board.

What parts of the circuit are responsible? Could it be one pad on the chip?, a resistor?
onurkalaycioglu
Great. Glad you guys got your stuff so fast.

@mr addiction. I would look up the data sheet for the 4040 chip and see which leg is the /4 and hit it again with your iron, to make sure it's really stuck to the pad. Also check both boards to make sure you didn't miss any joints or made any short circuits.

Also if anyone's interested. I really cleaned up my boms for my earlier modules so they are legible. They are posted on my site now. Found a good ulp for facilitating that, and was thinking of making a separate post mentioning where to find it.

Build docs for the svf are coming soon.
bensaddiction
@onurkalaycioglu I've tried hitting the pads a few times without any help. Could I ask for a little help on how this thing works though?

(this is in regards to /4 not firing on my build)

I see there are 7 jumper pins between each board for both the 7 jacks and the LEDs. So, does the LED act as a diode switch and only passes a signal to the jack after the LED is lit. If so, could I maybe have a diode placed incorrectly and hence why there is no output on 4? Or does it go through the jack first? I can't quite work it out with my multimeter.

I was pretty certain I put all the LEDs in the correct way (all the others work).

Which transistor is for output /4? Maybe I could look there.


All the solder joints look good, but of course it is a very compact layout
qfactor
What happened to your VCA kit on your website?
There's only the BOM there but you're not selling the kit anymore?
seriously, i just don't get it
windspirit
Hey sorry if this is supposed to be obvious but I can't seem to find the attenumix BOM anymore. I remember seeing it and there were just a couple of resistors but for some reason I can't find it now?
Joonatin
I'm also waiting for the vca to get back in stock... cause well :thathugesmiley:
onurkalaycioglu
bensaddiction wrote:
@onurkalaycioglu I've tried hitting the pads a few times without any help. Could I ask for a little help on how this thing works though?

(this is in regards to /4 not firing on my build)

I see there are 7 jumper pins between each board for both the 7 jacks and the LEDs. So, does the LED act as a diode switch and only passes a signal to the jack after the LED is lit. If so, could I maybe have a diode placed incorrectly and hence why there is no output on 4? Or does it go through the jack first? I can't quite work it out with my multimeter.

I was pretty certain I put all the LEDs in the correct way (all the others work).

Which transistor is for output /4? Maybe I could look there.


All the solder joints look good, but of course it is a very compact layout


if youre still not receiving signal from /4 to the led or jack out it might be the /4 jumpers between your boards that arent soldered properly. or maybe the chip got shocked, but that would be weird no signal isnt coming out of only that pin.
the /4 signal from that pin is used to switch the transistor to turn on the led and trigger the jack. yea it could also be a bad led or jack but thats strange they both arent working. i can pm you a pic of pointing out all the possible culprits dealing with the /4 pin.

@mr spirit. i dont think there was a bom for the attenumixer. its just b100k pots and 100k resistors. or you can use b50k pots and 47k resistors. i use 100k's in mine.

sorry if its not clear. the vca info and paypal buttons are on the news page(the first page you navigate to). i can move the buttons between the pic and info, maybe people werent scrolling far enough down... modular addict should also have vca pcbs and kits.
bensaddiction
Thanks mate, if you could send a pic that would be amazing
qfactor
Hi,

In your VCA pcb, there's a section that has 6 sets of 3 pads, labeled 1-6 with some "AC" and "DC" labels scattered here and there.
What are these for?
I don't see them connected to the panel pcb, so I assume that they are for expansion or daisy chaining more than one VCA module? seriously, i just don't get it

Thanks!
onurkalaycioglu
qfactor wrote:
Hi,

In your VCA pcb, there's a section that has 6 sets of 3 pads, labeled 1-6 with some "AC" and "DC" labels scattered here and there.
What are these for?
I don't see them connected to the panel pcb, so I assume that they are for expansion or daisy chaining more than one VCA module? seriously, i just don't get it

Thanks!


Those 3 pin headers are for selecting audio in AC or dc coupling for each channel. So youre going to need a 2 pin shunt/jumper for each channel unless you want to solder permanent connections.
ambrohski
Started my build on the Unicursal VCA, (which looks great BTW...) and my lousy eyesight is making it tough to tell some of the proper 1K and 100K resistor positions- Is there an image available that shows the resistor map as it corresponds to the BOM, or at least a close-up of the board?

Thanks! thumbs up
qfactor
ambrohski wrote:
Started my build on the Unicursal VCA, (which looks great BTW...) and my lousy eyesight is making it tough to tell some of the proper 1K and 100K resistor positions- Is there an image available that shows the resistor map as it corresponds to the BOM, or at least a close-up of the board?

Thanks! thumbs up


I don't think it's your eyesight, as I too had to de-solder some resistors inside that "cluster" of resistors several times as I had incorrectly identified the resistors. Especially the ones that are related to the LEDs! seriously, i just don't get it Moreover, I'm already using a magnifying glass to view when soldering! hihi

This is not blaming anything or anyone for this because there's just so much space only in a small HP size (and we DO want it to be a small HP size!!) and the font size of the text can only be so small before something gives way (like my eyesight, or the "ink" in the text!! d'oh!

After going thru that "forest of resistors", I can only say to those who have yet to build this, PLAN and SKETCH OUT (if needed) which resistors go where. If not, just be ready to de-solder (or learn how to, if you're not confident in de-soldering).

As mentioned, I had to de-solder a few times for various resistors because I read the values wrongly and to add to the "challenge", I had planned on different LED colors for 5 of the 6 LEDs, hence mine required different resistor values for some of the LED colors (like the blue and green ones).

In short, just be cautious! thumbs up
qfactor
onurkalaycioglu wrote:


Those 3 pin headers are for selecting audio in AC or dc coupling for each channel. So youre going to need a 2 pin shunt/jumper for each channel unless you want to solder permanent connections.


Possible for you to give us a layout of what to jumper to, to get AC or DC?
Had a look at the text on that but can't quite figure out what should be jumpered to where! hmmm.....

Thanks!
onurkalaycioglu
ambrohski wrote:
Started my build on the Unicursal VCA, (which looks great BTW...) and my lousy eyesight is making it tough to tell some of the proper 1K and 100K resistor positions- Is there an image available that shows the resistor map as it corresponds to the BOM, or at least a close-up of the board?

Thanks! thumbs up


yea reading where things go is a bit like a puzzle... but i hate using designators and reading back and forth. heres where all the 100k resistors go.



heres with 1k added


now with 47k added

and finallly with 68k added. keep in mind this is leaving out the led resistors


and for mr factor. the 3pin headers act as switches. center is common and one side is either ac or dc. heres a pic of what the shunt/jumpers look like.
ambrohski
Kick ass, just what I needed- thanks a bunch! Bananallama!
falafelbiels
onurkalaycioglu

Do you maybe have a schematic for the hex VCA?
I want to mod it so that the pots are CV attenuators (with V++ normalization) instead of offset controls.

edit:

okay I've got that working, only now the leds don't work anymore because I soldered out the interconnect pins for the CV inputs. So the LEDs take their voltage from those lines it would seem. I would still like to get those going but now that I modded the thing and connected the normalized legs of the CV inputs to V++ (all connected to eachother) it is a bit hard to find out which pin used to be for which VCA. Oh well I'll try and figure it out tomorrow. Tonight, we wiggle!
qfactor
Thanks, onurkalaycioglu
thumbs up
bokonon
Howdy All!

I've got some troubleshooting to do on my new SVF that I just put together and could use some pointers on where to start. I've had pretty good luck with all the stuff I've put together so far so I have yet to hone those skills.

The filter only works when I have CV going into the envelope input and the CV pot turned all the way up. Otherwise the cutoff knob doesn't do anything and the resonance knob acts like a volume knob (but sounds thin and veiled.) When there is CV going into the envelope input it sounds great! LP/HP/BP all work, cutoff seems to have a full range, and resonance can self oscillate.

Any pointers are appreciated! smile
Randy
I'm checking out the Modular Addict site, just wondering which jacks to order for the Vnlcursal?

Thanks

Randy
sammy123
Hi Randy. I have the module in front of me. You want these: http://modularaddict.com/parts/synth-diy-parts/pj301m12-jacks
Randy
Great, thanks! I want to order a bunch of stuff but might wait until the CAD dollar comes up a bit.

How do you like the module?

Randy
onurkalaycioglu
bokonon wrote:
Howdy All!

I've got some troubleshooting to do on my new SVF that I just put together and could use some pointers on where to start. I've had pretty good luck with all the stuff I've put together so far so I have yet to hone those skills.

The filter only works when I have CV going into the envelope input and the CV pot turned all the way up. Otherwise the cutoff knob doesn't do anything and the resonance knob acts like a volume knob (but sounds thin and veiled.) When there is CV going into the envelope input it sounds great! LP/HP/BP all work, cutoff seems to have a full range, and resonance can self oscillate.

Any pointers are appreciated! smile


hmm thats strange that you can control the filter with cv but not the pot so that means the matched transistor and the subsequent exp converter is ok. you either have bad pot or maybe you missed a joint somewhere, maybe on the right angled header connecting the boards... i would also check the svf video on my site if yours is indeed functioning properly.

@mr falafel. sorry i missed this, sometimes i get emails about this thread sometimes i dont. pm ing you a schematic soon.


@sammy123 and randy. are these jacks confirmed to work with my thicker panels because thonkinconn implies that they are the specially made jacks with 4mm thread length, ie not long enough for my panels. i sell the standard 4.5mm thread length qingpu jacks and so does erthenvar. in the modular addict description it does say erthevar/thonkiconn which also confuses matters.
qfactor
Hi, can I also get the schematics of the hex vca from you?
I've built mine but not getting any sound out from any of the 6 VCAs! d'oh!
All the LEDs are triggering when I plug in a cv to the cv in though.

Thanks
onurkalaycioglu
qfactor wrote:
Hi, can I also get the schematics of the hex vca from you?
I've built mine but not getting any sound out from any of the 6 VCAs! d'oh!
All the LEDs are triggering when I plug in a cv to the cv in though.

Thanks


did you install the jumpers like shown in the pic a couple posts above? you wont get any sound if the shunts arent connecting center pin to right or left pin on the 3 pin headers.
sammy123
I have not finished it yet. It's sitting here about 50% assembled staring back at me.

Randy wrote:
Great, thanks! I want to order a bunch of stuff but might wait until the CAD dollar comes up a bit.

How do you like the module?

Randy
qfactor
onurkalaycioglu wrote:

did you install the jumpers like shown in the pic a couple posts above? you wont get any sound if the shunts arent connecting center pin to right or left pin on the 3 pin headers.


d'oh! d'oh! d'oh! d'oh! d'oh!
qfactor
Ok, ok!!
Now that the jumpers are in place, here's the vca! nanners
Works as advertised!

Thanks onurkalayciolu! thumbs up
And, I removed the panel sticker!!
It's peanut butter jelly time!

Trebbers
Could onurkalayciolu or someone post Mouser #s for the caps in the VCA, especially the 10uf 'POL5MMX2MM'? I think I probably found what I need for the other caps, but def had no luck searching for the 10uf part.
qfactor
For the VCA settings, I'm still a little confused with AC and DC.

I know with DC I would be able to mix in CV as well audio signals.
Then what's the difference if set to "AC"? Does it only work for audio range? If so, why can't I just use the DC setting only since they work for both??
hmmm.....
onurkalaycioglu
Trebbers wrote:
Could onurkalayciolu or someone post Mouser #s for the caps in the VCA, especially the 10uf 'POL5MMX2MM'? I think I probably found what I need for the other caps, but def had no luck searching for the 10uf part.



not sure why it says 5x2 on the bom, will fix it. the caps are just your standard 5mmx11mm electrolytic can type.

@qfactor
ac is better for audio because it chops off the dc offset and essentially high pass filters your signal. dc is better for cv and lower frequency signals. its best to just try both and listen to the difference, although it can be subtle depending on how youre using the vca.
falafelbiels
Got me LEDs lighting up again! Keven sent me schematics and with those in hand it was less difficult to work it out.
It has become a pretty cut up and kludgey affair. Glad I used 0805 resistors!
thenormanconquest
i ordered the qingpu jacks from zlob, and gonna get the pots elsewhere, but hopefully these carts will help some of y'all out. i left off knobs and a couple other little things (and obviously some other things are best ordered from places other than Mouser, but it's all there for convenience's sake). but just read the BOM and you'll be fine-

CLKDV-
http://www.mouser.com/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=86e1b 7c8cc

THSVF-
http://www.mouser.com/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=b5cd2 e53f7

VCA-
http://www.mouser.com/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=7a8cd 4c926
onurkalaycioglu
Entropy, the 2hp sample and hold noise module’s panel is done. since some components leak into the 3rd hp i just made a 3hp panel for it as well. so v1 can still fit into 2hp it just depends what you put next to the module. the next revision(at the fab) uses horizontal resistors, so should be able to fit into 2hp better...

also note the module is a bit deep at 62mm with the power cable(because of all through hole design, to accommodate sdiy), it fits in my skiff but may or may not in all skiffs.


some specs:
s/h with white noise normalled to the input. and a pcb trimmer to adjust the spread(gain) of voltages out
all analog white, pink, and brown(red) noise 10vpp~(dependent on white gain trim)
and a smooth(infra red) random cv out 0-5v range, although offset can be tweaked with pcb trimmer.

fully builts prototypes are $90, kits $55, and pcb panels $15.(all come with 2hp and a 3hp panel) please purchase through my site(on the news/home page). zlobmodular



trip
Nice work on these onurkalaycioglu - would it be possible to put the vca together with 0805 smd resistors instead of upright thru-hole?

Always found smd much easier and quicker than doing a tonne of thru-hole stuff, especially with so many in such a tight space.

Also does anyone have a mouser part # for the alpha trim pots? I'm struggling to find the right ones and thonk are sold out of the 10k.
d'oh!

edit: anyone tried building the vca with the tayda kobiconn style jacks? Are those tall enough?
trip
falafelbiels did you use 0805 for the whole build, or just for your mods? I'm wondering if the pad spacing is alright to go smd throughout before I order all the parts.
onurkalaycioglu
trip wrote:
Nice work on these onurkalaycioglu - would it be possible to put the vca together with 0805 smd resistors instead of upright thru-hole?

Always found smd much easier and quicker than doing a tonne of thru-hole stuff, especially with so many in such a tight space.

Also does anyone have a mouser part # for the alpha trim pots? I'm struggling to find the right ones and thonk are sold out of the 10k.
d'oh!

edit: anyone tried building the vca with the tayda kobiconn style jacks? Are those tall enough?


I've got this question before as the design does use all vertically oriented resistors like many of my modules. But I'm not an smd fan so I can't say definitively they will fit in the allotted space. I'm out of town till July so I can't do much measuring besides doing some sort of comparison of parts in eagle. I can get back to you. But so far In Italy internet is a little sporadic here depending on hotels...

O yea and for pots. I source mine from tayda they are the alpha trim kind. Although later this summer I'm switching to the song hueis, same foot print I believe.

On a side note I'm at the Torino synth meet exhibiting tomorrow if any Italian wigglers are around. I also have a bunch of kits and some fully built modules on my trip with me so if any European wigglers wanna meet up and have a beer and make a transaction. pm or email me. I'm in Milan for the rest of the week, then all over Spain, then Belgium for a couple days, then Turkey, then amsterdam for a week.

On yet another note. I just released another 2hp module before I left.

sorry not the best pic...




The Dual VCA is a 2 channel dc coupled OTA linear VCA based on the same fabled design of the VnIcursal VCA. The 2 VCAs are summed together so it can be used as a voltage controlled mixer. The 2 outs are normalled to the sum so they can be removed from the mix and used on their own as separate VCAs. Being based on the most recent revision of the VnIcursal VCA this 2hp version has pcb offset trimmers for extra silent operation with zero bleed.

like Entropy the 2hp s/h noise module, this circuit pushes the limits of through hole design and size constraints of 2 horizontal pitches. these designs might have trouble fitting next to other modules with deep/wide circuit guts. 3hp
panels might also be offered in the future....

Although the dual vca uses horizontal resistors the ic and trims cut it pretty close into 2hp. If you don't use ic sockets and bend your trims down a bit there should be no problem.

Since I'm out of town. My shop is closed. Check my distributors page on my site. Who has what is on the home page.
falafelbiels
trip wrote:
falafelbiels did you use 0805 for the whole build, or just for your mods? I'm wondering if the pad spacing is alright to go smd throughout before I order all the parts.


Yeah pretty much everything except for some capacitors I didn't have.
It actually makes it easy to work with this tight a board.
L!mbo
nvm I found them
onurkalaycioglu
bom posted for entropy. dual vca bom coming soon...

https://zlobmodular.com/entropy/

also fyi if youre in europe... zlob is on the road with diy stuff for sale.
https://www.muffwiggler.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=2251428#2251428
L!mbo
Looks like I fried one of the pads for the VCF. I would guess that means the pcb is ruined right?
trip
I just finished the build of my vca today, I used 0805 for all the resistors and most caps apart from a few values I didn't have. I put the led resistors on the back of the board which was handy for trying a few dif values for the superbright leds I used. Ended up using 100k for most of them. Attached a few pictures in case anyone was wondering what the finished thing looked like as smd - it was relatively simple after getting all the 100k in place following the picture on the bom. Here's an insta of the light show applause https://www.instagram.com/p/BGZepKZHWve/

The panels look amazing up close! Pictures don't really do justice. I think because the details are debossed slightly, which is lost a bit in straight on photographs.

I got my pcbs from synthcube, and they are the old revision of the main board, which was a bit frustrating. I'm not bothered about the gain trimmers, but the hf bleed in the sum out is pretty noticeable. I'm not entirely clear on what the changes to the new board are apart from the trimmers, would it be possible to mod this older main board to get rid of the bleed?




[/img]
trip
I finished my th svf yesterday, but am getting some really strange behaviour from it. I'll take some pictures when I get in later on, but wondered if the problem might stick out to someone, as it's pretty specific.

The only difference I made to the build was hacking together a 100ohm resistor to a 100k trimpot for the res and cutoff trimmers as I didn't have any 100 ohm trims.

The problem with the build is that the cutoff knob is in reverse, ie turning the pot clockwise lowers the frequency of the cutoff. The tl071 was getting really hot as well, like hot enough that I could start to smell it - so I turned the circuit off pretty quickly, but I did notice that the filter wasn't self resonating either. I had the jumper on the max rez pin and the trimmer all the way down.

Any ideas?
trip
So I went in and reflowed a bunch of stuff to see if that would help, but now the thing is properly fucked - no input or output at all. Aside from poking around with the multimeter a bit, I'm not sure where to start to see what's going wrong given the previous weirdness when it was sort of working.

Here are some pics:




[/img]
teknobryan
Hello, I recently built the Entropy, but the s/h isn't really sampling the input correctly. I'm feeding in a already quantized melody but the Out isn't in tune at all. I know there's a pot to adjust the spread but it isn't helping it get into tune. Is this how the s/h is supposed to work for the Entropy?
onurkalaycioglu
sorry i missed some of these while i was gone on vacation.

@l!mbo
not necessarily. it depends on how bad you burnt the pad. you can always still solder to the top pad or worst case scenario scratch away at the appropriate trace and try to solder a wire to it.

@trip
yea the v3 vca is still being phased out. i can send you over a mother board for a discounted price. or yes its possible to mod the sum opamps with some caps to help with hf bleed. i cant remember. did i talk to you over email about the svf? never heard of strange behavior like that but you might have burnt out the matched transistor, or it could have been bad the begin with. i recently redesigned the filter so it just uses normal pnp transistors. my supplier in china of the 2sa798s proved unreliable and im still trying to get money back from them for a big order of shitty transistors....

@teknobryan
yes theres a trimmer that adjusts the spread/cluster of voltages out on the s/h. maybe you have to attenuate coming in or going out. ive personally never had trouble with it sampling correctly. did you build one from a kit or on your own?


ok... so to news.

so like the title says everything is %15 off for my 1 year anniversary as a company. you have to email me to work out the discount. my site is in my signature.

also i have 3 new 2hp modules coming out soon.

Mineq: a 2hp version of the Zlob T.H. EQ($75 built)($45 kit)

Minimix: a 2hp simple 3 channel unity gain mixer. ($70 built)($40 kit)

Miniatt: a 2hp passive dual summed attenuator with manual switches to turn off each respective channel. ($50 built)($35 kit)

all pcb/panels are $10 for the new modules.

also all the designs are through hole besides the smd ics for the mixer and eq.

im in the process of designing the panels. will post what they look like soon.

also the first run of svf aluminum panels are coming in by the end of the month early next month. they will be $10 each. they are red on black aluminum. they will look something like this...

sorry for the blown up pic
bonjourmyfriends
onurkalaycioglu wrote:
yea the v3 vca is still being phased out. i can send you over a mother board for a discounted price.



Are you talking about the 2 hp VCA or the VnIcursal VCA? I'm thinking of getting a second VnIcursal VCA.

Also I really want the black and red aluminum faceplates for the VCA and SVF - they match the rest of my kit perfectly.
onurkalaycioglu
bonjourmyfriends wrote:
onurkalaycioglu wrote:
yea the v3 vca is still being phased out. i can send you over a mother board for a discounted price.



Are you talking about the 2 hp VCA or the VnIcursal VCA? I'm thinking of getting a second VnIcursal VCA.

Also I really want the black and red aluminum faceplates for the VCA and SVF - they match the rest of my kit perfectly.


the dual vca is still within its first rev. the vnicursal is onto rev 4 which is less noisey and has better, more unified, gain control via trims on the pcb.

yea the svf red/black panels are shipped, hope to see them by early next week or sooner. judging by the quality and tolerances of this run i will slowly start converting other designs. its quite a bit more expensive than laser cutting them myself so be patient with the conversion, definitely wont all happen at once...
falafelbiels
Well that panel design looks like it is going to be GORGEOUS...
onurkalaycioglu
falafelbiels wrote:
Well that panel design looks like it is going to be GORGEOUS...


thanks mr biels.

the run of red panels came in and the tolerances are all over the place they look cool but im having my guys rerun them because 90% of them are bad. but heres a sneak peak of more of what they will look like besides that crappy screen shot above. so im hoping to have a better run of them in a couple weeks.




also i have some new blank designs in 2hp for $2.50 each and 4hp for $3 each.
the designs are based on a turkish carpet motif representing ram horns: a symbol of power...




and other news. the panel design for the 3 new 2hp modules are coming together. i have to do another run of protoypes fixing a couple layout things. but if you want a v1 prototype at a discount, get in touch.

also the sale is still going on until the end of august
monoopti
I'm going to build a T.H. SVF kit soon. I have some experience building modules, but I've never built a filter before. Can someone please explain how I should set the two trimpots? Thanks!
onurkalaycioglu
monoopti wrote:
I'm going to build a T.H. SVF kit soon. I have some experience building modules, but I've never built a filter before. Can someone please explain how I should set the two trimpots? Thanks!


one trimmer is for 1v/oct. you can get fancy with a midi cv converter and a keyboard to trim. or i actually just trim by ear by putting the filter in self oscillation by turning the resonance past 3oclock. i tune a C for example with 0 volts into the voct input and then give it 1 volt from pressure points and trim accordingly to get a C an octave above. you can do this in different ranges/octaves/notes to get a more accurate 1v/oct. this also depends on which revision you have as the rev doesnt use a 2sa798(matched transistor)

the rez trimmer is for attenuating the resistance in the feedback path. this depends on the shunt setting on your filter. up is max, and down trim. i put the filter in self oscillation(like mentioned above) and trim until i get a "stable sine" wave.

this would probably interest you too mr monopoti. the new run of aluminum panels are in for the svf and they are finally right. im selling them for $7 each for current owners of th svfs. pm me if you want one. not sure why its so big...

trip
I'm still having some trouble with my th svf, I ended up replacing the transistor pair with a 2sa979 after having a fake 2sa798 crap out on me. The filter works, but doesn't self oscillate and is kind of noisy (for the most part in a good way). The resonance only really seems to kick in around 1-2k hz, and it's like there's a constant low level hum around 2k no matter where the cut off is. I'll record a shitty video on my phone tomorrow to try and demonstrate, it's just kind of weird - it's 75% working, just something off with the resonance. I've double checked all joints and they all seem fine, jumper is on max rez, but on either position it doesn't seem to make a difference, and the trimmer only very slightly alters the amount of resonance (which if I view on the scope with massive voltage multiplier I can see at a very low level). Any ideas where to poke around to fix the resonance? It does resonate, but no way near enough to self oscillate. Part of me just thinks I'll build another and keep this chaotic squawky thing, it screams at max rez when the input signal and cutoff are at a similar frequency - but forking out for another matched transistor is kinda putting me off.
Grumskiz
I have a similar problem and I think someone else also reported it. I have a suspicion that it's the capacitors (in the actual filter, not the decoupling caps), but I'm not sure.
trip
Yeah, I seem to remember someone else posting about this problem as well, strange as I can't see any problem with my build at all, I wonder if you're right and it's the type of caps we used or something? I haven't had chance to look over the schematic yet, onurkalaycioglu could you point us towards where the res might be going wrong in the circuit?
onurkalaycioglu
@trip

looking back at some pics, you cant put a 100ohm resistor in parallel with a 100k pot like that. you are most likely overloading the tl071, transistors, and giving the ota the wrong amount of current.

and yes what capacitors you use effect the overall sound of your filter. especially the ones in the integrators. i notice you were using the kind of cheap ceramic kind. i use mlcc, i have the mouser numbers on my site.


@grumskiz
you have the very first revision of the filter, which is probably not ideal. i noticed you hacked together your own sort of exponential converter with 2 transistors. which should work fine but could also effect the sound/operation of your filter. also not sure about the quality of the caps youre using in your filter from the pics couple pages back.


im happy sell you guys both new filter mother boards for $10 and with the anniversary discount(so $8.5) and i can throw in whatever parts you need, that you dont have, like 100ohm trims or the caps i use. pm me.

o and by the way. the new revision of the filter doesnt use a 2sa798. it just uses 2 normal pnp transistors.
trip
Thanks, I've since swapped out the trimmers for the correct values now, and changed the ics when I put in the new transistor but essentially still had the same behaviour, which looks like this

That's with the trimmer on max res, res knob all the way up doing a slow sweep of cutoff - that lf hum is there as soon as the cutoff gets above that frequency.

So I guess it must be the caps then? I hadn't seen the mouser #'s on your site before, just spotted it now.

Would you mind telling me which are the caps in the integrators? I think I have mlcc caps for all those in the bom and I could try swapping them out.

Thanks for the offer of the new board, definitely going to want to build another at some point but would like to get this one working as it should be as well if possible thumbs up
ImNotDedYet
I'm about to finish up my vcIncursal VCA, and it's got a panel I've not seen before. I purchased the kit from Control, and it appears to have a marbled white/blue panel. I noticed someone mentioning taking a sticker off theirs, but this doesn't _appear_ to be a sticker. Were any panels made that sound similar to this?

Am I good to screw everything together, or am I missing something?
ImNotDedYet
ImNotDedYet wrote:
I'm about to finish up my vcIncursal VCA, and it's got a panel I've not seen before. I purchased the kit from Control, and it appears to have a marbled white/blue panel. I noticed someone mentioning taking a sticker off theirs, but this doesn't _appear_ to be a sticker. Were any panels made that sound similar to this?

Am I good to screw everything together, or am I missing something?


I just kept it on if it is a sticker. I like the look better than the straight blue. If it actually is a sticker that I can't seem to separate from the panel, it will come off eventually and have "character."

BTW, fantastic module! 6 VCAs in 8 hp, works great on audio and CV! Really digging it. Thank you!
onurkalaycioglu
trip wrote:
Thanks, I've since swapped out the trimmers for the correct values now, and changed the ics when I put in the new transistor but essentially still had the same behaviour, which looks like this

That's with the trimmer on max res, res knob all the way up doing a slow sweep of cutoff - that lf hum is there as soon as the cutoff gets above that frequency.

So I guess it must be the caps then? I hadn't seen the mouser #'s on your site before, just spotted it now.

Would you mind telling me which are the caps in the integrators? I think I have mlcc caps for all those in the bom and I could try swapping them out.

Thanks for the offer of the new board, definitely going to want to build another at some point but would like to get this one working as it should be as well if possible thumbs up


yea thats interesting behavior. the filter should self oscillate almost too easily. usually you have to put the resonance past 3 oclock and then wiggle the cutoff to get it going. the integrator caps are the 330pf ones, and id also change out the 10pf ones to mlccs. both the mouser numbers are on my site.

@imnotdedyet
sorry i missed this. it is indeed tape on the panel to prevent the panel from getting burned up when lasering through. you have to scratch at it a little bit to remove it, and i rub the the finer parts off with a cloth and alcohol. thanks.


also the %15 off sale ends 8/31
and the 3 new 2hp modules should be coming out soon. along with a new prototype panel for the dual vca. featuring led push switches to trigger the vca in 2hp.
onurkalaycioglu
minimix is a 2hp simple 3 channel dc mixer. its capable of mixing audio or cv based on the potentiometers used. the ic,trimmer, and power filtering caps are smd, the rest are through hole components. there is a trimmer on the pcb to adjust the overall gain close to line level if needed.

built:$70
kit:$40
pcb/panel:$10

the bom is here
https://zlobmodular.com/minimix/


the other two 2hp modules(mineq,miniswitch) will be available for machines in music in a couple weeks as well as the push version of the dual vca and a 2hp dual vclfo hopefully.


Grumskiz
2hp mixer looks great smile
Recently I was looking for the 2hp S&H. Is that one still available or coming back?

I managed to fix the SVF by replacing the 330pf caps in the filter core with polystyrene ones. The other ceramics are NP0.
Addam
Apologies if this was previously stated but I didn't find it in the thread or the BOM. Does anyone have a mouser part number for the small B100K pots as needed for the mineq (which I think is the plastic shaft type used in the minimix)?

I don't think a build guide is necessary but photos of these boards stuffed might be helpful, too. Thanks!!
templar
Hey, I have question about the 6 trimmer resistors on the VnIcursal VCA

Can anyone tell me if they need to be specifically single turn or multi-turn?
EATyourGUITAR
Can i see the min mix from the back?
Silver
Hello! Just to jump on the bandwagon, I'd also love to see some Mouser part numbers (or even better a cart).
A picture of the backs of the mineq and minimix would be helpful too.

In particular, I'm having a hard time finding the 10u 0805 polarized caps. Can I use MLCC caps??? seriously, i just don't get it
http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=GRM21BR61E106KA73Lvi rtualkey64800000virtualkey81-GRM21BR61E106KA3L

or do I have to get that from Jameco?
Even on Jameco, this was the closest thing I could find...
http://www.jameco.com/z/EEE-1VA100WR-Panasonic-Capacitor-10-uF-35-Volt -20-4x5-4mm-Surface-Mount-22ma-1000-Hour-Tape-and-Reel_1984048.html

Any guidance would be much appreciated.
Thanks!
ImNotDedYet
templar wrote:
Hey, I have question about the 6 trimmer resistors on the VnIcursal VCA

Can anyone tell me if they need to be specifically single turn or multi-turn?


I would imagine single turn would be sufficient. I bought a full blown kit, and don't know if the trimmers were single or multi, but having adjusted them I can say there wasn't a whole lot of trimming needed.
templar
nice one, thanks for the info ImNotDedYet
onurkalaycioglu
@grumskiz
great. glad you figured out your filter. i will mention on my site to use better quality integrator caps. yep the s/h is still available although im working on a revision.

Addam wrote:
Apologies if this was previously stated but I didn't find it in the thread or the BOM. Does anyone have a mouser part number for the small B100K pots as needed for the mineq (which I think is the plastic shaft type used in the minimix)?

I don't think a build guide is necessary but photos of these boards stuffed might be helpful, too. Thanks!!


so far the mineq doesnt have a bom because its the same circuit as the T.H. EQ and theres a bom for that. but there are a extras and a couple different things so i will put one together soon. mainly smaller 1uf caps from jameco(part no. 94161) and you need a 10mm spacer along with two m3 5mm long screws, i use nylon flat heads from mcmastercarr.

but to answer your question erthenvar sells the b100k song huei trim pots. but thonk or the manufacturer are the only places to get the b500k pot. i mention on my website, but you can order the b500k from me or also if you can deal with the smaller shaft trims with no indicator tayda sells the alpha version of the b500k.

@addam
multi turns would work fine, but as someone else mentioned the trim to "zero" is a really small turn on a normal trim towards negative volts. although if you are looking to trim all your vcas to the exact same dB a multiturn would be what you want.


@eatyourguitar

heres a pic of an early prototype, so this one doesnt have a smd trim on the back. the chip is on the other side between in 3 and the sum out. also the 10uf power filtering caps on the back arent the right size. i assume your wondering how i made my "shitmix" in such a small package.





@silver
and speaking of the minimix. sorry for the confusion about the smd pads, as you can see in the pic you solder through hole parts to the smd pads for the chip and power filtering, although you would probably wanna make the 0.1ufs legs shorter. like in the pic a standard 10uf package would fit but i use these from jameco as they are 4x5mm, part no. 94212. i have some mouser carts floating around but they are for older modules. i have most of my important mouser #s on my site. in the bom it also tells you where to buy the parts, but i think you know that.




i guess i havent announced the mineq over here, so here it is...

The Żłob Modular Mineq is a simple 3 band equalizer which boosts or cuts the low, mid, or high frequencies of your audio source. It passes sound relatively un-altered with each band set at noon. This is not a filter, and full cut settings of all bands will not fully eliminate your source.This EQ is AC coupled so it’s best for audio although it’s possible to eq cv with some interesting results. The Mineq is a 2hp version of the Żłob T.H. EQ.




also on a side note, i have a couple new modules coming out that have been mentioned. i have a illuminated push button version for the dual vca at the fab and miniswitch, a dual passive 2hp attenuator with toggle switches should be out soon depending on how the new prototypes work.

and im about to pull the trigger on a run of alluminum panels for 2 other modules. im getting the minimix and the VnIcursal vca made in red on black. so look out for those in a month or so...
Silver
Thanks Keven
VERY excited about the new aluminum panels!!!
what will the illuminated push button on the dual vca's do?
Addam
Great, thanks for the update. Attenumix was just about as easy a build as there could be and super useful
maltemark
I have a question regarding the TH VCF - on my PCB I can't see the 2SA798s marked, but I do see markings for 2 2N3906. Are these supposed to be used instead on this revision (rev iv)

Or am I just missing the obvious thing? :)

Cheers
onurkalaycioglu
maltemark wrote:
I have a question regarding the TH VCF - on my PCB I can't see the 2SA798s marked, but I do see markings for 2 2N3906. Are these supposed to be used instead on this revision (rev iv)

Or am I just missing the obvious thing? smile

Cheers


sorry i missed this. the new version, doesnt have a 2sa798 anymore. just normal pnps. had a problem with my chinese distributor of the matched pairs, and they are not exactly cheap either.


been laying low lately on some releases. but a couple things are coming out soon as well new aluminum panels and pcb panels.

first. i have finally figured out(actually david from bubblesound generously shared his method) how to get my rather complicated graphics into a pcb software, in turn being able to create gerbers and printed circuit board panels of my designs. the test subject was the attmix and they turned out better than imagined in black and white. so pcb panels will be coming(slowly) for most all designs not already made in aluminum. but i still have to get some prototypes made in black pcb with red silkscreen.

second. svf and minimix red on black aluminum panels are in the process of being fabricated and should be delivered some time in december. a couple more designs are hopefully soon to follow.

third.a new version of the dual vca is coming out. this version has illuminated push buttons to essentially turn each vca on or off. there are no cv ins. just 2 separate channels and a sum out of the 2 vca outputs. will post a vid soon. but am waiting to get aluminum panels made for this one before release.

fourth. i made a new version of the miniatt with the switches at the bottom of the pcb instead of the last design which became a little cluttered when all patched up. miniatt is a 2hp dual passive attenuator with toggle switches to activate or kill each channel, both channels are also summed together.

fifth. there is a new version of the clk dv that fixes the minor problems with the last version and also adds some features. mk II is now a musical divider, meaning all the outs go high when reset. the build is also simplified with through hole chips and jumpers oriented on the top and bottom of the pcbs. sending out some test subjects to a couple people.


i know its black friday. and i would have put on a sale, but trying to only get new stuff out there that has either pcb panels or aluminum ones. but if you want some stuff at a discount for today, pm or email me. i can give %15 off.



daynehacks
Just ordered a TH SVF! excited! One thing I noticed is the BOM looks to be an older rev as it shows 2sa798 which you said isn't used any more.
onurkalaycioglu
daynehacks wrote:
Just ordered a TH SVF! excited! One thing I noticed is the BOM looks to be an older rev as it shows 2sa798 which you said isn't used any more.


thought i answered this. but im sure you figured it out by now. yes the new rev doesnt use the 2sa798. just 2 normal pnps.


new red and black aluminum panels are in for the minimix and svf. the screen printing clarity at fahrion is really impressive. my crappy over exposed pic
doesnt do it justice.

synthcube has a shipment coming in of the new panels and diy stuff. and analogue haven will have some built ones soon.

more aluminum panels are a coming in the new year as well as pcb panels...

Whelm
Awesome! I've got a few of my remaining dollars earmarked for the vincursal VCA once the aluminum is ready. screaming goo yo
windspirit
nvm Rockin' Banana!
GryphonP3
Whelm wrote:
Awesome! I've got a few of my remaining dollars earmarked for the vincursal VCA once the aluminum is ready. screaming goo yo


Looks good! I too have 3 vnicursal VCAs eagerly awaiting an aluminum panel upgrade! SlayerBadger!
sleepgardens
I must admit that I was skeptical about about the new graphics, it looked very cluttered to me. But instead it looks really really good!
ImNotDedYet
I'm trying to source the components for the Entropy, which calls for two ADA Fruit 100k trimmers and 1 500k - 1M trimmer.

Unfortunately, even a google search has resulted in ADAFruit having only a 10K trimmer. Does anyone have a mouser/smallbear/tayda parts for non ADA Fruit trimmers as I can't seem to find them?

Thanks.
daynehacks
I just finished my TH SVF and its not working! I have built a lot of projects and have gone through the usual debugging. I can't find any solder bridges, and I've replaced all the IC's.

Im getting a lot of DC voltage on the outputs and as far as I know thats usually a no no in audio.
My voltage in (power connector) is +/- 11.98v

HP: 10.57v
BP: -11.20
LP: -11.88v
These voltages do not change dependent on the knob positions.

Also, the TL071 seems to get quite warm to the touch. Not quite smoking and burning your finger, but a big uncomfortable.

another note, when you touch the some resistors near the edge of the board with your fingers it makes some squeeling sounds.
daynehacks
Got it figured, After reflowing everything and swapping out the transistors it still didn't work. I grabbed a tl081 from my breadboard (known working) and replaced the tl071 and Yeeha! works fine.

I'm guessing my tl071 pile is a bunch of crappy fakes.
onurkalaycioglu
ImNotDedYet wrote:
I'm trying to source the components for the Entropy, which calls for two ADA Fruit 100k trimmers and 1 500k - 1M trimmer.

Unfortunately, even a google search has resulted in ADAFruit having only a 10K trimmer. Does anyone have a mouser/smallbear/tayda parts for non ADA Fruit trimmers as I can't seem to find them?

Thanks.


i think i sent you this already. but i get my trims at tayda. they are 6mm and 100k should work for all 3 trims on the entropy.

@daynehacks
glad you got it working


also i should mention theres new build docs for the vnicursal vca. and i also think i forgot to post that theres docs for the minimix too. its under diy-boms on my site.

also going to post a video soon of the new clk dv mk II which also has a new 2hp expander.

switching over many designs to white on black aluminum pcbs. so far with the clk dv, attmix, and dual vca.

new aluminum panels red and black panels for 2 new modules and the vnicursal should be in end of next month hopefully.
ImNotDedYet
onurkalaycioglu wrote:
ImNotDedYet wrote:
I'm trying to source the components for the Entropy, which calls for two ADA Fruit 100k trimmers and 1 500k - 1M trimmer.

Unfortunately, even a google search has resulted in ADAFruit having only a 10K trimmer. Does anyone have a mouser/smallbear/tayda parts for non ADA Fruit trimmers as I can't seem to find them?

Thanks.


i think i sent you this already. but i get my trims at tayda. they are 6mm and 100k should work for all 3 trims on the entropy.


Yep, I just ordered it along with another ViNCursal, and I just got the shipping notice. Thank you! smile
Slomen
I am building the Vncursal VCA now and I am a little confused about the leds. How do I know what resitor value I should use for my red leds? I´ve got red standard leds, the ones in the BOM. 10k?

EDIT: silly me, it is in the build guide: 20k for red leds smile
Slomen
trip wrote:
I just finished the build of my vca today, I used 0805 for all the resistors and most caps apart from a few values I didn't have. I put the led resistors on the back of the board which was handy for trying a few dif values for the superbright leds I used. Ended up using 100k for most of them. Attached a few pictures in case anyone was wondering what the finished thing looked like as smd - it was relatively simple after getting all the 100k in place following the picture on the bom. Here's an insta of the light show applause https://www.instagram.com/p/BGZepKZHWve/

The panels look amazing up close! Pictures don't really do justice. I think because the details are debossed slightly, which is lost a bit in straight on photographs.

I got my pcbs from synthcube, and they are the old revision of the main board, which was a bit frustrating. I'm not bothered about the gain trimmers, but the hf bleed in the sum out is pretty noticeable. I'm not entirely clear on what the changes to the new board are apart from the trimmers, would it be possible to mod this older main board to get rid of the bleed?




[/img]


Where did you buy the trimpots with the white lines on them?
templar
Slomen wrote:


Where did you buy the trimpots with the white lines on them?



These are what you're after: https://www.thonk.co.uk/shop/ttpots/
onurkalaycioglu
Slomen wrote:
I am building the Vncursal VCA now and I am a little confused about the leds. How do I know what resitor value I should use for my red leds? I´ve got red standard leds, the ones in the BOM. 10k?

EDIT: silly me, it is in the build guide: 20k for red leds smile


well its 20k for the red leds that come in my kits. not all red leds have the same mcd(brightness). if you have your own standard red led it might be around 1k or a little higher.

yep you need the song huei pots


if i didnt mention it already. i posted a bunch of new build docs recently. theres now vnicursal docs for the mother board, and docs for the attmix and dual vca.

also i posted a vid in euro subforum. but you guys over here would probably like to know theres a new clk dv coming out

the new clk dv mk ii and expander are coming out in a couple weeks. i also fixed whatever problems there were with the last version not triggering with certain slopes and now triangles and sines at audio rate can be divided "clearly."

the expander adds switching over non-inverted, off, and inverted clocks of the 5 divisions from the clk dv. it also provides 3 non inverted divisions of 64, 128, and 256.

old versions of the clk dv are not compatible with the new expander....

heres a little video with the smrf

im cool now, i have an instagram....
https://www.instagram.com/zlobmodular/

also its hard to see but it will be released in black and white pcb/aluminum panel.



o and finally vnicursal, push vca, and miniatt black and red aluminum panels should in by the end of this month or so. and other black and white aluminum pcb panels will be coming out soon for the dual vca, entropy, mineq, and clk dv expander
maltemark
Great, looking forward for the entropy and clk div panel!
daynehacks
Definitely am into that new clk divider and the instagram account! Miley Cyrus
GryphonP3
Vnicursal panel woah MY ASS IS BLEEDING w00t SlayerBadger! put me down for three!
Whelm
God damnit I was going to try not to buy anything this month. sad banana



It's peanut butter jelly time!
Pokus
onurkalaycioglu wrote:

if i didnt mention it already. i posted a bunch of new build docs recently.


I know this takes time, but would it be possible to post a new and updated BOM? I'm planning on ordering the vnicursal once the new panels are available. thumbs up This is my first time ordering a full diy-kit where I have to source parts on mouser etc. and I'm spending hours trying to make sure I haven't missed any reistors / capacitors etc.
onurkalaycioglu
Pokus wrote:
onurkalaycioglu wrote:

if i didnt mention it already. i posted a bunch of new build docs recently.


I know this takes time, but would it be possible to post a new and updated BOM? I'm planning on ordering the vnicursal once the new panels are available. thumbs up This is my first time ordering a full diy-kit where I have to source parts on mouser etc. and I'm spending hours trying to make sure I haven't missed any reistors / capacitors etc.


yep i will update it. but im actually working on a new revision of the top vnicursal pcb that changes the pots into attenuators when you plug voltage into the cv jack. trying to make it compatible with the recent revision of the vnicursal mother board with minimal if any modding.

also good news. the vnicursal vca aluminum panels are finally in! also i have new aluminum panels for the push vca and miniatt. so they will be released soon.



will post a buy button for the vi vca panel soon. they will be $10 each.


check out some new vids of the miniatt and push vca





or check them out on instagraham
zlob instant ham
Silver
Looks great! if we order the VCincursal pcb and panel set now which pcb version will we get?
onurkalaycioglu
Silver wrote:
Looks great! if we order the VCincursal pcb and panel set now which pcb version will we get?


Currently I still have the v4(with the trims). But the top pcb with attenuation feature will be v5 and should be out in a couple weeks. Have to do another revision.

Button is up to buy Vnicursal panels.
onurkalaycioglu
miniatt and push vca are available on my site now.

push vca
$95 built
$65 kit
$20 pcb/panel

miniatt
$40 built
$25 kit
$15 pcb/panel

should be shipping some out to control and analoguehaven within the next couple weeks.
pirxthepilot
Is there an ETA on the v5 VI VCA panels? Thanks! smile
GryphonP3
pirxthepilot wrote:
Is there an ETA on the v5 VI VCA panels? Thanks! smile


Also curious on this. Got a few aliminum panels in my basket and would prefer to buy along with the new top pcbs.
pirxthepilot
I also want to confirm if it's OK to use 0805 instead of through-hole resistors?
onurkalaycioglu
pirxthepilot wrote:
I also want to confirm if it's OK to use 0805 instead of through-hole resistors?


i dont advise doing it because the circuit isnt meant for smd. but several people have been successful doing so. even on page 9 theres some pics of someone who did smd on the vnicursal.

VnIcursal top pcb upgrades are now available on my site for $10 each

the new top pcb adds attenuation functionality to pre-existing v3 and v4 vnicursal mother boards. so when cv is inserted into the cv jack the pots now become attenuators for the incoming voltage.

a couple things to note: the older revisions are not designed to have the leds turn on close to the 0v crossing. this means there will be a small range of the pot turn where you will be able to hear sound and the led is not on. also since the leds are on more now the circuit will consume around 10-15 mA more on the +12v rail.

some resistors will have to be substituted on the mother board for optimal operation. depending on what version you have you will have to replace six 47k resistors with six 62k resistors or six 75k with 62k. this will give you unity gain at 5v. i will post a pic soon of where those locations are. it isnt completely necessary for the mod but if you dont do it you will notice towards the end of the pot turn the circuit goes from distortion to an almost waveshaping pop.

also there is a totally new revision of the whole vnicursal circuit that solves the led issues with the new attenuation version. so all vnicursals now ship as v 5.3. the new edition also has a new bom. which i will try and post before i leave for superbooth. i only have a couple prototypes of the new vnicursals will have lots more when im back from berlin.

and by May thonk will have a bunch of my stuff diy stuff including the new vnicursals.


finally im hosting 2 diy workshops at superbooth this year. the workshops are focused on euro diy beginners as we will be making simpler passive modules: the 2hp MiniAtt and 4hp Attenumixer. i will probably bring along a couple other more complicated kits for more advanced people too. pm me with any questions.

there will be a workshop on thursday april 20th at 11am and one on friday the 21st 3:30(15:30).
pirxthepilot
onurkalaycioglu wrote:

VnIcursal top pcb upgrades are now available on my site for $10 each


Great! When I order the PCB+panel, do I automatically get the latest version? Thank you!
dubtoms
Waiting eagerly for your revised pcbs and alu panels to be available as PCB/Panel sets from Modular Addict ! screaming goo yo
GryphonP3
Upgraded all my vnicursals and they all work great! All rev 2/3 I believe and I cant even notice the issues you noted. Very happy!
sleepgardens
Finally you can get stuff to thonk... time to build!
resynthesize
I ordered the vincursal vca pcb/panel kit direct from the zlob website yesterday. i assume i'm going to receive the v5 w/ aluminum panel? Does anyone have a mouser cart they can share for this? If not, I'll try putting one together and posting it here for feedback.
GryphonP3
resynthesize wrote:
I ordered the vincursal vca pcb/panel kit direct from the zlob website yesterday. i assume i'm going to receive the v5 w/ aluminum panel? Does anyone have a mouser cart they can share for this? If not, I'll try putting one together and posting it here for feedback.


There are only like 4 or 5 parts in the whole build. Should be quite easy to order parts without a cart.
onurkalaycioglu
pirxthepilot wrote:
onurkalaycioglu wrote:

VnIcursal top pcb upgrades are now available on my site for $10 each


Great! When I order the PCB+panel, do I automatically get the latest version? Thank you!


yes you do.

@dubtoms
havent heard from john at modular addict in a while. but reached out to him recently. so yea i hope stuff will be restocked over there soon.

@gryphonp3
great, im glad you like the upgrades.

@sleepgardens
yea, im excited to finally have european distribution. some stuff should be in stock(including the newest vnicursals) at thonk by end of this month.

@resynthesize
yep you receive the newest version with aluminum panel. no mouser carts as i buy parts from like 3 or 4 different suppliers. i just posted the new BOM for version 5.3 on my site. it has a lot of mouser part #'s and references to where i buy other parts.
tassie tiger
Has anyone got any words of wisdom / step by step advice for setting the six trimmers?
I don't have an oscilloscope, but can just about navigate my multimeter.

Many thanks,
J
Silver
I just did it by ear and it worked fine. Go in order starting from trimmer 1. Plug an oscillator or some fairly steady sound into the first input and with the pot set to fully off, adjust the trimmer until the sound just cuts out. You'll find the point fairly easily. Then go to trimmer 2 and repeat and so on. At the end go back and test each and that should work, test it at different frequencies if you're doing it by ear.
tassie tiger
Silver wrote:
I just did it by ear and it worked fine. Go in order starting from trimmer 1. Plug an oscillator or some fairly steady sound into the first input and with the pot set to fully off, adjust the trimmer until the sound just cuts out. You'll find the point fairly easily. Then go to trimmer 2 and repeat and so on. At the end go back and test each and that should work, test it at different frequencies if you're doing it by ear.


Many thanks Silver - easy to follow instructions for a relative newbie at this stuff.
thumbs up
daynehacks
Can we expect a new BOM for the CLK DV soon? I want to make sure I get the right 4040 and the one on the current BOM is SMD. Also, I'm guessing that with no expander we have to bridge all the "shunt" points?
GryphonP3
For those asking about doing this by smt, I just built 2x VnIcursal VCAs using 0805 components and they worked without issue (one older one's channel 1 is acting funny but I think that is due to a wrong value somewhere down the path - not the use of 0805 parts)
Slomen
My Channel 1 suddenly died.. It worked for a while, but now it is completley silent. Can someone tell me what to check? Ive no experience troubleshooting.. thanks!
sleepgardens
So how are we in terms of avaiblity at thonk? I'm planning a big order might as well get a Vincursal and Entropy smile
onurkalaycioglu
@silver
thanks for chiming in. yes its easiest to trim each vca by ear. i usually put a harmonically rich waveform into the vca(with panel knob at full counter clockwise) and turn up whatever final euro mixer and/or outboard mixer up louder than usual listen if you can hear the waveform. if you can, turn the trim slightly ccw until the vca is "silent." this calibration procedure also applies to the dual vca and push vca. i think i mention it on the vnicursal bom page.

daynehacks wrote:
Can we expect a new BOM for the CLK DV soon? I want to make sure I get the right 4040 and the one on the current BOM is SMD. Also, I'm guessing that with no expander we have to bridge all the "shunt" points?


yea sorry no updated bom yet. im not too happy with the newest version of the clk dv. im going to redesign it yet again with a perpendicular pcb. but what new version i sent you requires less transistors and a dip 4040. for the 5 expander jumpers i would use a 2 pin shorting block(shunt) for each one. because once removed you can use the expander. unless the expander doesnt matter then yes you can solder the points together. just email/pm me if you have any other questions.

@gryphon
most impressive, i might be contacting you soon about a ubraids

@slomen
its a bit hard to trouble shoot such a dense circuit without actually tracing through all points related to channel 1 with a schematic and pcb file. which im happy to provide but im not sure what the deal is with free eagle since the company was sold.

anyways. i would first check all solder joints to see if everything is properly covered/soldered and make sure nothing is bridging. another place worth checking is the jumper solder point connecting the mother board to the top pcb. its easy to miss one or get an unconnected joint. does the vca respond to voltage in? maybe something with the pot is not soldered correctly? maybe start with the top pcb is easiest make sure all jacks and pot related to channel 1 is properly soldered. if you cant figure it out email me some pictures of your pcbs.

@sleepgardens
i sent the thonk package last week. its supposed to arrive wednesday i believe. but might take steve a while to post stuff online. maybe email him next week. i only sent vnicursals, dual vcas, push vcas, minimixes, and minatts to thonk. most of my other modules(including entropy) are out of stock while i revise the pcbs designs.

on another note zlob will finally have some waveform/audio generating modules soon. i just finished a pcb for a dual vco in 4hp. its not the most stable or wide ranging vco because its using 2 8038 chips but 2 separate vcos with sine, triangle, and square waves each in 4hp at an affordable price and diy should please some. im also working on a serge like slope generator with some additional features, i think in 6hp. so hopefully some time this year i will be able to offer a meager zlob system.
resynthesize
Couple questions about the VNICursal rev 5 build:

1) should I just use 16k resistors for L1-L6 if I'm using all red leds? I'm using 3mm red leds from tayda.

2) There's this line item on the BOM in addition to the L1-L6 lines:

Quote:

3 18k* RESISTOR.1 RES-VERT-.1 R1,(depends on led color/mcd, should be 16k for my red leds)


Where do these go on the board, and should they be 16k as well?
Bbman
I just completed my build of the VNICursal last night. with all tayda red leds. Did not have any 16k resistors sitting around so I used some extra 15ks and it all works grand. Probably should use the 16ks, however, in L1-L6.
mqmq
Quote:
on another note zlob will finally have some waveform/audio generating modules soon. i just finished a pcb for a dual vco in 4hp. its not the most stable or wide ranging vco because its using 2 8038 chips but 2 separate vcos with sine, triangle, and square waves each in 4hp at an affordable price and diy should please some. im also working on a serge like slope generator with some additional features, i think in 6hp. so hopefully some time this year i will be able to offer a meager zlob system.


This is AWESOME news !!! I was about to order some minimix and dual vcas from your shop, should i wait for thonk in europe ?
GryphonP3
Oh HELLLL yeah on all those new modules!! I will take 2 of each! Will VCOs be able to run down to LFO freq with those simulateous outputs? And if I may be so bold, hard sync? If so, we are looking at the best 4hp FM source ever. Excited to hear how you are planning the serge slopes too. Serge slopes are the epitome of modular synthesis for me, so more are always welcome. Will it be a single channel or duao channel deal? And will it be able to do all the cool slew/filtering/dividing stuff like the serge slopes? Mmmmmm very excited.
resynthesize
Can someone post a hires photo of the main unpopulated VNICursal v5 PCB? I just finished my build but one of the channels is silent. Want to troubleshoot starting with resistor values but of course now it's pretty much impossible to see what the values printed on the board now.
windspirit
HUzzah for a zlob system! The filter is still one of my favs, would love to have a VCO to compliment it.
onurkalaycioglu
GryphonP3 wrote:
Oh HELLLL yeah on all those new modules!! I will take 2 of each! Will VCOs be able to run down to LFO freq with those simulateous outputs? And if I may be so bold, hard sync? If so, we are looking at the best 4hp FM source ever. Excited to hear how you are planning the serge slopes too. Serge slopes are the epitome of modular synthesis for me, so more are always welcome. Will it be a single channel or duao channel deal? And will it be able to do all the cool slew/filtering/dividing stuff like the serge slopes? Mmmmmm very excited.


yes the vcos will be able to run down to lfo rates at all outputs simultaneous, but the waveform symmetry gets a bit off towards the lowest speeds. im going to release a better suited vclfo in the near future that goes slow, like in the minute range. not enough space for sync on the design, but still debating whether to have an linear/exponential fm switch.

its going to be a single slope but with a sustain and more control over the shape of rise and fall individually, and with more attenuators/verters. yea it will be able to do the slew stuff/ filtering stuff. but the final design is less codified at the moment.

@resynthesize
i posted build docs for v5.3 recently so check those on my site. if its not clear enough i can send you an eagle pic of the board.

@windspirit
thanks. yea eventually im going to offer small subtractive zlob systems in retrofitted 6u samsonite briefcases. hopefully by end of this year, or early next year.


also wanted to mention im having a 10% off sale for zlobs 2 year anniversary as a company. email me and we will work out the discount as you cant apply it at checkout.
daynehacks
10% off is awesome, but your prices are awesome anyway. Too bad you don't have much in stock! Can't wait for these new modules/revisions though!
DisappearHere
Just knocked up the MinEQ in about an hour. Easy build and does exactly what it should. Should also note that the international shipping was fast, and I was impressed with the packaging (and included stubby holder). Thanks Keven!
Jefro
I absolutely love your modules, onurkalaycioglu. Once that dual VCO is available, I'll definitely pick up one plus a VnIcursal VCA. I can't wait!
onurkalaycioglu
been a while since ive posted here. thanks DisappearHere and jefro.

some of you might have seen this, as i posted on my site and in the euro sub forum. but maybe there will be more interest here. in the euro forum people seem to care more about a boba fett mult than what i spent probably a half a year working on(the dual vco)



sorry no real picture yet

Built: $230
DIY kit: $145
pcb/panel:$35
(pcbs come with smd matched transistors pre-soldered, everything else is through hole)

The Dual VCO is a 4hp dual analog voltage controlled oscillator. Each VCO has square, triangle, and sine wave out, coarse and fine tuning controls, a control voltage input, and a switch for selecting exponential or linear cv in.

When a control voltage is inserted, the fine tune control becomes an attenuator for the incoming voltage. In exponential mode, when the attenuator is fully clockwise, the VCO will track around 5 volts per octave.

Each VCO runs from 5 seconds a cycle up to 18k hz

Very Stable, Temperature compensated

current consumption: +12v 20mA, -12v 38mA

45mm deep

There are two main flaws to this 8038 oscillator design

Below 300 hz the waveform symmetry is slightly off. triangle waves get a little uneven in the lfo range they are more asymmetrical, the sine is not completely perfect to begin with the bottom trough and in the lfo range it slopes slightly, and the square turns more trapezoidal above 1khz(see scope shot, a post down)

Also it doesn’t track 1 volt per octave perfectly. usually the 2nd and 4th octave will be a couple cents off.

Other than those idiosyncrasies, it is a powerful, stable dual oscillator in a small footprint with no cross talk between oscillators. It’s great for: drones and beating sine or triangle waves, cross modulating itself for interesting clocks/LFOs, creating complex waveforms/timbres through lin/exp frequency modulation.

also there will be an alternate "normal" silver aluminum panel with black screen print and no extraneous graphics coming out next month. im calling these panels the soul-less series...

Thonk will be getting kits and pcb/panels soon, in a week or so and Wurlys in Tokyo will be getting some built ones most likely this month. perfect circuit will get some built ones probably this month. modular addict and synthcube tbd. otherwise you can buy things direct.
mihozu
Really interested by this dual vco module! Wondering how it sounds
Would there be some audio demo available somewhere?
onurkalaycioglu
mihozu wrote:
Really interested by this dual vco module! Wondering how it sounds
Would there be some audio demo available somewhere?


just posted this short demo on my instagram

dual vco demo

heres some scope shots

basicbasic
Pretty amazing feat getting this into 4HP. Looks like the perfect little analog FM module i've been hoping for thumbs up
Cryaaa
Looks really nice and definately really handy for fm........ Do you know when the boards will be availible anywhere in Europe?
degeneratedsines
They are available from Thonk, just got mine there smile

About the 8038, the BOM does not state whether to use ICL8038 or XR8038 and the suggested ebay seller has both.

Doing a search, ICL8038 seems to pop quite often on Muff compared to XR8038, so should I get ICL8038's?
mihozu
i got this dual vco built and running and i like it very much

onurkalaycioglu? i was wondering if there would be a procedure to calibrate something with the variable resistors (maybe the "squareness" of the square output)?
onurkalaycioglu
@basicbasic
thanks

@cryaaa
sorry i missed this, i dont always get email notifications. but as degenerated pointed out they are at thonk.

degeneratedsines wrote:
They are available from Thonk, just got mine there smile

About the 8038, the BOM does not state whether to use ICL8038 or XR8038 and the suggested ebay seller has both.

Doing a search, ICL8038 seems to pop quite often on Muff compared to XR8038, so should I get ICL8038's?


i use the icl version. i tried both versions and the xr didnt exhibit any improvements to the circuit.

@mihozu

the square wave is not square enough for you? or do you mean in the upper registers it gets trapezoidy?
mihozu
Quote:
the square wave is not square enough for you? or do you mean in the upper registers it gets trapezoidy?


oh no it is quite square! sorry, my question should have been, what's the role of the trimmer resistors, which i found out in your build document!

but what would be the way to make the two oscillators more "identical" in their frequency range and v/oct response?

also weird thing, when in linear mode, the frequency decreases with increasing voltage (it behaves as expected in exponential mode)??
onurkalaycioglu
mihozu wrote:
Quote:
the square wave is not square enough for you? or do you mean in the upper registers it gets trapezoidy?


oh no it is quite square! sorry, my question should have been, what's the role of the trimmer resistors, which i found out in your build document!

but what would be the way to make the two oscillators more "identical" in their frequency range and v/oct response?

also weird thing, when in linear mode, the frequency decreases with increasing voltage (it behaves as expected in exponential mode)??


o sorry i misunderstood your question. yea the trimmers are for volt per octave and high frequency trimming for tracking.

ray wilson has some good videos on adjusting tracking and hf trim.

so i follow his method mostly
"before you start trimming voct stuff, set the hf trim for both oscillators as low as possible. meaning fully counter clockwise, which is going to be quite a few turns on a 25 turner. you should hear a tiny click when it reaches its minimum. now make sure the oscillator you are trimming is in exponential mode and the fine tuner/attenuator panel control is fully clock wise. there are different ways of setting the tracking with midi controllers and frequency counters but this is my method.

the main thing is you need something that can spit out reliable stable dc voltages to test the various octaves. i use pressure points coming out the sequenced outputs, and i set each step to 0v, 1v, 2v, 3v, 4v, 5v and measure that with a multimeter. i assume you could do the same with most sequencers. then i plug those voltages into the cv in on the oscillator and set it to a low pitch around 70-100 hz(the note C for example, but it can be any note) with 0v in. i use a free guitar tuner app on my phone that also measures hertz. so, then i start cycling through the 5 voltages ensuring each octave is double the hertz(ie the same note an octave higher).

you will notice between 0v and 1v that the notes might be off from each other, turn the voct trimmer so they are closer. the first pass of trimming will be a rough one, as once we reach 5v you will need to start injecting the voltage from the hf trim back into the circuit. once you reach the 5th octave you will notice the pitch to be around a step or so off from your target note. turn the hf trim to the right to tune up.

now return to 0v, you might notice the original target pitch has changed so tune that back to where it was with the frequency panel control. now repeat going through the octaves and trimming with the voct trimmer(you will notice the 1st and 3rd octaves will be a couple cents off from the target note, this is normal) get as close as you can. once you reach 5v you will most likely need to adjust the hf trim again.

you will have to repeat this process several times to reach the equilibrium between the voct trimmer and hf trim."

sorry thats long...

for now, the inverse linear response is normal operation. i plan to fix it in future revisions.
zorglub76
Hey, Onur, is there a plan for making dual LFO in the near future?

I don't need a VCO atm, but a relatively slow LFO (something like 0.1Hz) would suit me great. Can it be done by modifying this Dual VCO (I have no EE knowledge, but in my head a LFO works with the same circuit as VCO, just with different values of certain capacitors and resistors)?

If that is possible, what parts should I experiment with?
mihozu
Thank you very much for the detailed calibration instructions!
Much appreciated!
onurkalaycioglu
zorglub76 wrote:
Hey, Onur, is there a plan for making dual LFO in the near future?

I don't need a VCO atm, but a relatively slow LFO (something like 0.1Hz) would suit me great. Can it be done by modifying this Dual VCO (I have no EE knowledge, but in my head a LFO works with the same circuit as VCO, just with different values of certain capacitors and resistors)?

If that is possible, what parts should I experiment with?


sorry i missed this, yes the 3hp skew fade lfo is coming out in a couple weeks. it can go 3 minutes and 30 seconds a cycle. but its not voltage controlled besides vc fade between skewable sine and square.

you can switch out the 0.01uf caps on the dual vco with bigger ones to go slower, but the waveform symmetry gets pretty off the lower you go.





10% off site wide sale going on the month of May. make sure you get in touch before placing an order to work out the discount, its not easy to refund especially internationally without paying fees with paypal nowadays.
onurkalaycioglu


The SF-LFO is a 3hp all analog low frequency oscillator capable of a plethora of waveforms. It has three rate settings ranging from 3 minutes and 30 seconds a cycle up to audio range at 20 hz. Triangle waves can be skewed between saws and ramps, and square waves pulse width can be adjusted. The LFO's unique feature is voltage controlled cross fading between skewable sine and square waveforms. It can even be self patched(ie triangle into fade cv) for an extended pallet of waveforms. Bicolor led provides constant display of positive and negative voltage crossings.

available now
built $80, kit $50, pcb/panel $20

demos


zorglub76
Just finished the Skew Fade LFO and I'm loving it.

Small - checked!
Easy build - checked!
50ms to 271s wavelength - checked!
Skiff friendly with 43mm depth - checked!
Nice, non-boring, cv-controllable wave shapes - checked!

Kudos onurkalaycioglu!
onurkalaycioglu
zorglub76 wrote:
Just finished the Skew Fade LFO and I'm loving it.

Small - checked!
Easy build - checked!
50ms to 271s wavelength - checked!
Skiff friendly with 43mm depth - checked!
Nice, non-boring, cv-controllable wave shapes - checked!

Kudos onurkalaycioglu!


thanks i appreciate that.


im hosting a beginner sdiy workshop at knobcon this year. we will be building passive attenuators the 4hp attenumixer and the 2hp miniatt.

workshops this saturday at 11am

more info here

Knurbcon Zlob Workshop

onurkalaycioglu
Doing another workshop this Sunday at the Dutch modular fest in The Hague. It's once again focusing on soldering easier passive modules(attmix and miniatt) although if anyone wants help soldering something more difficult come by Sunday the 30th 14.00-19.00.

Dmf Zlob workshop info

I'm also doing a short noise/drone set tonight at the festival if anyone is interested.
onurkalaycioglu
finally announcing the new revision of the entropy. 3hp expander coming soon.








Entropy is an all analog random voltage and noise generator. It features sample/track and hold normalled to white noise with a toggle switch for selecting sample(switch right position) or track(switch left position) and hold function. There is also a pcb trimmer(at the top of the motherboard) to adjust the spread(gain) of random voltages out from “scalar” (low gain, counter clock wise) to large interval jumping(high gain, clock wise).

All analog white, pink, and brown(red) noise 10vpp~(dependent on white noise gain trim). Smooth(infra red) random cv out at 10vpp with 2 range settings from wiggley with (more events, switch in left position) to almost random rise and fall envelope behavior(less events, switch in right position). White noise pcb trimmer sets the amplitude of the white noise which in turn influences the rate of the infra out.

LED solder mask windows display positive(red) and negative(blue) voltage crossings

built $100
kit $70
pcb/panel $25

heres a short overview of the new entropy with gearslutz


Happy Halloween
BACH
I got the new Entropy kit as a Christmas present. It was great fun to put together (I'm sort of new to this, this was my 8th build, I have put together bigger kits like a Hades and a lilErebus and also I have created some very simple modules myself, a mixer, a baby 10 sequencer and the like, simple stuff) but I'm afraid I made a mistake somewhere with this, because I can't get it to work properly.
I get noises from white, pink brown and also the infrared is working fine. But the sample/track and hold output is just a very low voltage until I feed a square into the Hold, then it jumps to 10v where it stays constant until I turn off the power on my bus board.

I have no idea of how to troubleshoot, so does anybody have any idea of where I should start looking for mistakes? Could it be wrongly placed resistors? Or perhaps a simple short-circuit somewhere? I tried replacing the two 10uF caps, because I thought I might had burned them, but that didn't do it.

Besides the stupid mistake I obviously have made, this was a great kit to solder. Very compact and great looking!
onurkalaycioglu
@bach
sorry i missed this, did you figure it out?


seems like forever since ive posted here but have been busy with lots of new things coming out this year.

first major announcement is i have a new website! head over to zlobmodular.com to check it out.

second big announcement is i am now stocking right angle patch cables in 3 colors:

red, black, and glow in the dark

in 4 length to start
6", 12", 18", and 24" or (15cm, 30cm, 45cm, and 60cm)

for now im only selling 5 packs consisting of one color and one length. but eventually i will start selling mixtures of colors and lengths.

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