MUFF WIGGLER Forum Index
 FAQ & Terms of UseFAQ & Terms Of Use   Wiggler RadioMW Radio   Muff Wiggler TwitterTwitter   Support the site @ PatreonPatreon 
 SearchSearch   RegisterSign up   Log inLog in 
WIGGLING 'LITE' IN GUEST MODE

DIY Mutable Unsuccessful Builds
MUFF WIGGLER Forum Index -> Music Tech DIY Goto page Previous  1, 2, 3, 4 ... 81, 82, 83  Next [all]
Author DIY Mutable Unsuccessful Builds
setsun8
Yep working fine for me as well now. One of my favorite modules, it is so incredibly useful and the vactrol mode sounds fantastic.
zarro
modules go out, I unplugged my braids to see if it came from the consumption although I'm surprised
https://www.modulargrid.net/e/racks/view/105824
I tried two buses and several power port but nothing
I must have short circuit
if someone could help me
thank
zarro
problem solved I reversed the direction ic 9 and 10 applause
the LED lights
more than to wait for my friends ftdi
to flash my STM32
zarro
Hi everybody
I finished my clouds and install the bootloader
but I have concerns about the dry / wet
there not seem to be 100% on my own
knowing that this is the DIY there may be a concern somewhere, as happened to 85% of the race he seems to be the most of the wet and 15% following redecend it to dry
I am surprised because I do not like to hear the sound without necessarily entering froze its
or if someone would come to this failure
crc
just finished building a Tides, but as i'm trying to flash the module with ST-Link, it can't connect to the module. i actually tried to connect to my braids and clouuds that i succesfully built but i can't connect to those either.

thin is that i have upgraded from windows vista to windows 7 after i have build braids and clouds. i have tried to install the latest drivers for st-link ect, but no bonus confused

help
zarro
@crc

I can not help you because I used a ftdi
try this software
http://www.st.com/web/en/catalog/tools/PF257525
but otherwise you can turn the knob "blend" to the max on the "dry / wet" so that we hear not the original sound
crc
oh, and one more thing.. when i power up Tides (non-flashed), the first led is lit red (dim). normal?
zarro
sorry i don't build tides

my problem is hardware
because when I use my shades in off-set in "cv blend in" to the maximum
   I can not hear the original sound
someone would have an idea of where come from the breakdown
limpmeat
crc wrote:
oh, and one more thing.. when i power up Tides (non-flashed), the first led is lit red (dim). normal?


Not sure, but I can say that on the second clouds I built the LEDS lit up before flashing where the first one didn't. Both work fine.
BARE BONES
so....
I decided to calibrate my Braids, followed the instructions in the manual, at first the pitch was just way too high and now after a few attempts im getting just random noises.
I'm going to reinstall the firmware, but does anyone have any idea what might be amiss to cause an issue like this?
It must be related to the inability to update via audio file but the inputs all worked fine for actually playing the module so it's very confusing.
BARE BONES
crc wrote:
just finished building a Tides, but as i'm trying to flash the module with ST-Link, it can't connect to the module. i actually tried to connect to my braids and clouuds that i succesfully built but i can't connect to those either.

thin is that i have upgraded from windows vista to windows 7 after i have build braids and clouds. i have tried to install the latest drivers for st-link ect, but no bonus confused

help


can you update the firmware on the st-link?
crc
BARE BONES wrote:
crc wrote:
just finished building a Tides, but as i'm trying to flash the module with ST-Link, it can't connect to the module. i actually tried to connect to my braids and clouuds that i succesfully built but i can't connect to those either.

thin is that i have upgraded from windows vista to windows 7 after i have build braids and clouds. i have tried to install the latest drivers for st-link ect, but no bonus confused

help


can you update the firmware on the st-link?


yes. i have to plug out the usb cable once to get the update procedure to work.
crc
Ok, build another Braids, and can't connect with that one either. Clearly a problem with my computer, as I have tried it now with two sets of programmers, and four MI modules (two programmed, two blank). Running out of ideas :(
BARE BONES
how did you program the first two modules?

Maybe there's an issue with your jtag cable
BARE BONES
I've got one totally non working Elements and one that has taken the firmware and seems operational but outputs no sound.
If anyone has any advice it'd be appreciated, i've had a look at the schematics and it seems like it's probably an issue with IC14 or the surroundings but i'm not sure what to test to verify that.
I've tried updating the firmware via the external input and got no response so i'm guessing that's not functioning either.

The first time I powered it up I had IC11 upside down so maybe that's caused some problem, I don't really understand how the different parts of the schematic fit together
Puzzler
pictures?
BARE BONES
-deleted
Puzzler
Did you replace IC11 with a whole new 4051PW after you corrected the "upside"?

And pictures taken directly from top would be most helpful to correctly see the dimensions.
BARE BONES
yes a brand new chip, it's supposed to be exactly the same part as the other 3 but has a different code marking.
I was taking the pics through my magnifier so it was a bit difficult to do them directly above. I'll try again, thanks.
bennelong.bicyclist
Not directly relevant to your issue, but it is worthwhile cleaning all the flux off the PCB thoroughly, even if you use no-clean flux, with isopropanol or similar, although best done before you mount the pots and switches etc. A clean PCB is much easier to inspect. Especially important when looking for tiny solder bridges between the MPU pins and other fine-pitch chips.
BARE BONES
will do, I normally clean my boards but was a bit too keen to get this one into action.
I've been probing around with an oscilloscope looking at the ICs, from what I can see on the schematic I should be able to see the audio coming out of IC14 on pins 1 & 7
BARE BONES
I got a new magnifier today and was able to see a couple of tiny solder bridges on IC12, reflowed the solder and we're good to go!
cool

Now it's just the totally non working one to solve very frustrating
jackmattson
I've built 2 ripples (at the same time)... one the cutoff doesn't work and the other no sound. Totally my fault I 100% sure. First SMT job.

I fried my module tester a few times, the last probing the power in and making a heavy short (oops). It sits in my pile of todo's but I've lost interest a bit.

Building two tides and soldering on the very first STM32 I bent 2 legs meh ... but I'm learning.

0 for 3.5 record. But a pile of more boards to learn from. Still having fun (mostly).

Balancing these projects with a few easy through holes keeps my esteem at a normal level.

Edit: actually I'm happy to have some issues to learn from. Just don't know where to start learning about debugging these suckers (Ripples)
dadacore
bennelong.bicyclist wrote:
makers wrote:
bennelong.bicyclist wrote:
Changing -B 1 to -B 4 in the makefile solved the problem.


That worked! Thanks so much. Now... Strangely everything's seems to work correctly but running very slowly. For example- it takes about 10 seconds of holding the switch down before it will enter the config mode.

I'll look into the fuse settings tomorrow.

Anyway, thanks again Tim.


Now that you've flashed the code once at the slower speed, you need to set the fuses. Just run "make -f grids/makefile bake" - the bake target in the makefile (or in makefile.inc) will set all the fuses correctly, including the clock speed fuse. I (re-)discovered these tricks recently - see http://mutable-instruments.net/forum/discussion/7258/repairing-a-grids



Already tried one pass with make and one with bake, but still the clock speed fuse it isn't working properly.
Got this report while flashing it:
avrdude: set SCK frequency to 93750 Hz
avrdude: warning: cannot set sck period. please check for usbasp firmware update.

could this be the issue?
bennelong.bicyclist
dadacore wrote:
bennelong.bicyclist wrote:
makers wrote:
bennelong.bicyclist wrote:
Changing -B 1 to -B 4 in the makefile solved the problem.


That worked! Thanks so much. Now... Strangely everything's seems to work correctly but running very slowly. For example- it takes about 10 seconds of holding the switch down before it will enter the config mode.

I'll look into the fuse settings tomorrow.

Anyway, thanks again Tim.


Now that you've flashed the code once at the slower speed, you need to set the fuses. Just run "make -f grids/makefile bake" - the bake target in the makefile (or in makefile.inc) will set all the fuses correctly, including the clock speed fuse. I (re-)discovered these tricks recently - see http://mutable-instruments.net/forum/discussion/7258/repairing-a-grids



Already tried one pass with make and one with bake, but still the clock speed fuse it isn't working properly.
Got this report while flashing it:
avrdude: set SCK frequency to 93750 Hz
avrdude: warning: cannot set sck period. please check for usbasp firmware update.

could this be the issue?


Sorry, I don't know. Are you using the official Atmel AVR ISP mk2 programmer? I tried three different third party Atmel programmers to program my Shruthi synths, without success, before buying the official Atmel product. But there are some third party programmers that are good, but also a lot that are complete garbage, I understand. For $30-odd bucks, I though it best to just get the official programmer.
MUFF WIGGLER Forum Index -> Music Tech DIY Goto page Previous  1, 2, 3, 4 ... 81, 82, 83  Next [all]
Page 3 of 83
Powered by phpBB © phpBB Group