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WIGGLING 'LITE' IN GUEST MODE

[Expander available] "Anushri" PCB's with eurorack
MUFF WIGGLER Forum Index -> Music Tech DIY Goto page Previous  1, 2, 3 ... , 9, 10, 11  Next [all]
Author [Expander available] "Anushri" PCB's with eurorack
stringsthings
Awesome! Those red boards look great. I'm ready to put my build into the eurorack to let it play with the other modules. This project has been a real joy. Thanks so much for putting this together.
sumdumguy
I am looking for someone to program/flash the atmega for me. I have made two attempts without success and need to determine if there is somene else wrong with my build. PM me if you are willing to help.thanks, eric
audiohawk
Expander boards looking good.
Thanks for the update and Thank you for your work we're not worthy
AdrianH
I have some skiffs and panels left for Anushri and Anookum.
If interested then let me know.
Ilpolainen
AdrianH wrote:
I have some skiffs and panels left for Anushri and Anookum.
If interested then let me know.


Hi!

I would be interested in buying your Anushri desktop -box, and would also like to know where i can buy pcbs suitable for it.

You can email me:
pohjolanilmari@gmail.com

BR. Ilmari Pohjola
brawnywynn
sumdumguy

did you ever successfully flash your atmega?
stringsthings
Any news on the expander boards?
skookum
It's done and BOM is done.
Needs a panel but if someone doesn't need panel, PM me! thumbs up
br1qbat
Adrian - How much for a euro panel for the anookum?
ground_state
This is from the wayback machine, but I really need to understand it:

skookum wrote:
I learned about >>this<< recently. If I had been aware of it at the time I would have implemented it on the board. As it is now either beware or implement the diode as advised by the link.


- Is this even necessary for an unracked unit?
- Is, for example, soldering a Schottky diode directly between pins 8 & 9 on the bottom side of the board a valid solution?
- Equally important: *which* Shottky diode is the correct part? The referenced website mentions BAT85 (fix V- disconnected) and 1N5817 (to add? reverse voltage protection).
skookum
-In the interest of keeping the magic smoke inside your VCA chip if your negative rail fails for some reason it is a good idea.
-Yes
-Either is OK. You don't have to use a specific part no, just make sure you use a Schottky diode. 1N5817, 5818 and 5819 all work and are easily found.
br1qbat
I was perusing the BOM, and ic6 is named only as a quad vca chip. Im assuming this is a 2164? I dont know any others that fit that description, but wanted to he sure
skookum
br1qbat wrote:
I was perusing the BOM, and ic6 is named only as a quad vca chip. Im assuming this is a 2164? I dont know any others that fit that description, but wanted to he sure


That is correct. Either the Coolaudio V2164 or (if you can find one) Analog Devices SSM2164.
ground_state
Very clear. Thanks!
skookum wrote:
-In the interest of keeping the magic smoke inside your VCA chip if your negative rail fails for some reason it is a good idea.
-Yes
-Either is OK. You don't have to use a specific part no, just make sure you use a Schottky diode. 1N5817, 5818 and 5819 all work and are easily found.
br1qbat
Snookum - do you still have any euro panels available?
ground_state
Ugh. I realized I had a problem with the spacers after I'd already soldered the headers. I ordered 20mm spacers after looking at the MI build docs again. Now that I'm completely done *except* for final assembly with the case, I came back here to read through everything and realized that the *headers* are >10mm on purpose.
So, long story short, HELP.
Pololu cut and engraved the case (can't recommend them highly enough), so there's no re-doing that. Any suggestions on how to fit this guy together in the case, short of de-soldering the headers and replacing with low-profile (horrors)?
windspirit
Quick question, is the BOM roughly the same as a normal Anushri BOM? I am finishing up an Anushri build for a client and wanted to build my anookum at the same time. I was hoping to just load up the anookum BOM and then add parts to it as needed for the Anushri build. I know that the jacks and buttons are different but the core components of the synth are the same correct?
skookum
ground_state wrote:
Ugh. I realized I had a problem with the spacers after I'd already soldered the headers. I ordered 20mm spacers after looking at the MI build docs again. Now that I'm completely done *except* for final assembly with the case, I came back here to read through everything and realized that the *headers* are >10mm on purpose.
So, long story short, HELP.
Pololu cut and engraved the case (can't recommend them highly enough), so there's no re-doing that. Any suggestions on how to fit this guy together in the case, short of de-soldering the headers and replacing with low-profile (horrors)?


If I understand it correctly you have used the 12mm spacers in the middle of the "sandwich" and now you are finding it to be to tall for the case? If that is the case your best bet is to get 18mm spacers. Does it seem your jacks and switch would be functional still if offset 2mm vertically?

Apologies for not highlighting this issue better. d'oh!

windspirit wrote:
Quick question, is the BOM roughly the same as a normal Anushri BOM? I am finishing up an Anushri build for a client and wanted to build my anookum at the same time. I was hoping to just load up the anookum BOM and then add parts to it as needed for the Anushri build. I know that the jacks and buttons are different but the core components of the synth are the same correct?


Yep, you got it!
ground_state
skookum wrote:
ground_state wrote:
Ugh. I realized I had a problem with the spacers after I'd already soldered the headers. I ordered 20mm spacers after looking at the MI build docs again. Now that I'm completely done *except* for final assembly with the case, I came back here to read through everything and realized that the *headers* are >10mm on purpose.
So, long story short, HELP.
Pololu cut and engraved the case (can't recommend them highly enough), so there's no re-doing that. Any suggestions on how to fit this guy together in the case, short of de-soldering the headers and replacing with low-profile (horrors)?


If I understand it correctly you have used the 12mm spacers in the middle of the "sandwich" and now you are finding it to be to tall for the case? If that is the case your best bet is to get 18mm spacers. Does it seem your jacks and switch would be functional still if offset 2mm vertically?

Apologies for not highlighting this issue better. d'oh!

No prob, it's down to my lack of due diligence very frustrating . I worked out the 18mm standoff idea after I'd already posted, but thanks for the speedy reply nonetheless thumbs up
It looks like everything should space out OK.
ground_state
So it all worked out in the end. My first build of something like this, and my first soldering since I was a kid (it's been a little while smile ).
The graphics on the case/panel are an amalgam of Snookum and Olivier's modular panels and Olivier's case panel. The case and panel were fabbed and engraved by Pololu (highly recommended) from Illustrator files, total cost $60. I hand-colored everything using Sakura fineliners.
Power tested out good the first time! The only reason I had no sound (as it turned out) was bad flash commands. I got it right on the third try using info from Pololu's website (I also bought their AVR programmer).
On to the good stuff (not sure how image posting/linking works here, so these are Flickr links):
Money shot - https://www.flickr.com/photos/quaestor/33908816041
Panel - https://www.flickr.com/photos/quaestor/33908813371
skookum
Looks *fantastic*! Great job on the case! applause
ground_state
skookum wrote:
Looks *fantastic*! Great job on the case! applause


w00t
Alll due to the generosity and hard work of you and Olivier we're not worthy
windspirit
Hey so I realize that this question is probably better posed to the MI forum but I figured Id ask here in case someone already figured it out. I have a bunch of B100k pots I bought in bulk,will those work instead of the 10k pots? I figure for the digital stuff they are mostly voltage dividers but for the analog stuff it may be more tricky. Obviously the audio taper would have to be a different pot.
skookum
I don't have the schematic in front of me, so it needs to be confirmed but I believe the vast majority acts as simple voltage divider. Except the output volume, resonance, wave, and sub level.
skookum
Unfortunately it appears everything works as intended. w00t

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