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Rotary Switch Diagram
MUFF WIGGLER Forum Index -> Music Tech DIY  
Author Rotary Switch Diagram
Jsharpphoto
I'm looking at building a non-powered panel for my 5u, that's similar, but more simple than the dotcom 3 way switch panel. It has two 3 position switches, for 3 to 1 (or 1 to 3) routing. In trying to find the right switches, I see 3 position royalty switches with different numbers of poles. I have no idea what the poles determine.

Please help a newb.

This is the panel that I'm building.... Without the connect switch in the middle.

http://www.synthesizers.com/q149.html
CeeJay
http://www.dummies.com/how-to/content/switches-in-electronic-circuits- poles-and-throws.html
Jsharpphoto
Dummies dot com. How fitting. Sorry. Thanks for pointing that out.
d.simon
this page describes poles in rotary switches:
"The number of poles is the number of separate circuits that can be activated at any given time"
http://www.globalspec.com/learnmore/electrical_electronic_components/s witches/rotary_switches

I didn't see how many poles those rotary switches have.
From the description, they are "4-position" switches, with one position not used.

here's a pic from aliexpress of 4-position, 2-pole:
Piedwagtail
http://www.dummies.com/how-to/content/switches-in-electronic-circuits- poles-and-throws.html

so dumb it never mentions (on) momentary....or even the common nomenclature of on-off-on etc

R
CeeJay
For the module you want to build, you need a 1 pole 3 position (throws) switch. If you want the off position as well, then you need a 1 pole 4 position switch.
If the switch has more poles, it does'nt matter. You can consider them as additional separate switches, which you switch at the same time. But you don't need to connect them.
Jsharpphoto
CeeJay wrote:
For the module you want to build, you need a 1 pole 3 position (throws) switch. If you want the off position as well, then you need a 1 pole 4 position switch.
If the switch has more poles, it does'nt matter. You can consider them as additional separate switches, which you switch at the same time. But you don't need to connect them.


Thanks for clarifying. That helps a lot. I am using this module as kind of a routing selector. The top switch will be "send destinations" and the bottom switch would be "return destinations". For it to complete the audio circuit, both switches would have to be in the same position. So could I reduce it to one switch that was a 2 pole, 3 position? Or am I making it to complicated.
CeeJay
Jsharpphoto wrote:

So could I reduce it to one switch that was a 2 pole, 3 position?


Yes, for that application it will work fine.
Jsharpphoto
Do I need to be concerned with "shorting" or "non-shorting"?
Jsharpphoto
Thanks for all of the info on this circuit function. Just to recap, this module is an interface for my voyager XL, into the modular. The voyager has a pre-filter effects loop (insert cable). So this module will take the two TS jacks on the end of that insert cable, and route them to three different places, given that when send 1 is activated, return 1 has to be active as well. And the Input jack and Output jack have to be linked to all three positions.

Is this correct? I'm kind of guessing here. I have a feeling the way I'm incorporating the INPUT and OUTPUT jacks isn't rig.

Red is positive, black is ground.
kassu
Im not sure what your diagram means, it needs some clarification what the pinout means. Do you have a part number or schematic drawing for your switch?

but, first of all, the grounds can be all wired together, no need to switch them. So only the positive wires will be connecte to the switch at all.
Jsharpphoto
I can't find a schematic. It's a Philmore 30-15403 Rotary Switch, NonShorting 4 pole, 3 position

That's just what the back of my switch looks like. I assumed, maybe incorrectly that posts 1-3 were for pole A, 4-6 were for pole B, 7-9 pole C, 10-12 pole D.

Maybe I need to wire it this way....
kassu
That looks sensible. If you are not sure of the pinout you should test with a multimeter before wiring it up, but I think the last schematic will be correct.
Jsharpphoto
Thanks. I've never designed a circuit before. Wiring up mults doesn't count.
Jsharpphoto
kassu wrote:
That looks sensible. If you are not sure of the pinout you should test with a multimeter before wiring it up, but I think the last schematic will be correct.


If I wanted one of the positions to act as a bypass, couldn't I omit send and return number 3, and connect pins 3 & 12 with wire to create a "bypass" position?
kassu
Yes.
Jsharpphoto
I just wired it up, at tested it. Everything works perfectly. Thanks for all your help, i'm sure this is way below the skill level of the average DIY Wiggler. But this $5 worth of parts just saved me from buying a $110 module.
dhergott1
I’m trying to do something similar and this was helpful. I’m still confused about wiring the ground though. I assumed you’d need a two pole switch one pole for the tip and one for ground. But I guess all the grounds can be wired together and you only need a single pole. Is that right?
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