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WIGGLING 'LITE' IN GUEST MODE

E-Licktronic Nava 909 clone
MUFF WIGGLER Forum Index -> Music Tech DIY Goto page Previous  1, 2, 3, 4, 5 [all]
Author E-Licktronic Nava 909 clone
donttouchmyrice
bemerritt wrote:
Is the PDF BOM that states "v1.0l 1287 parts" the most up to date and what I should be using for the 1.02 board?

THanks

edit: and the build guide for that matter. I assume it is all still relevant


Mine's the v1.02 version. I don't think much has been changed on the PCB of later versions after 1.02.
I havent' got a BOM from that time..
The quickest way to get you sorted is just send an email to e-licktronic themselves, Vincent's often quick in answering. That way you'll be sure getting the right answer to your question
heapish
What wire should I be using? The rainbow stuff I got from think doesn't look as tough as what is pictured
donttouchmyrice
heapish wrote:
What wire should I be using? The rainbow stuff I got from think doesn't look as tough as what is pictured


Yea if I'm not mistaken that's the 24AWG rainbow ribbon cable you're refering to?
Someone on the e-licktronic forum referred to that one as well and I wish I didn't follow that piece of advice. It should work, however you'll probably struggle having them fit nice and sturdy in each hole of the molex housing connectors. 24AWG is a little too thin for that.
The crimp terminal connectors from each wire will stick a little too loose to the pin headers when it's all connected inside the housing and each of the wires will have some space to wiggle, which isn't good.
Also, the crimpterminals wouldn't align properly in the housing when I connected housing and pinheaders, so I ended up connecting and disconnecting them constantly untill they aligned OK. Some crimpterminals bent & broke in half because of this so I had to backorder some of them. All very annoying very frustrating .

Overall, I recommend going 22AWG stranded for those connections instead. They're diameter (with insulation) is thicker and they fit way better in each of the holes of the Molex connector housings.
They're also less finnicky to get your crimping terminal around.
The only downside to the 22AWG wire that it's a little too thick to fully fit in the soldering holes of the mixing board. I don't know if it's ok to cut some wire off at the end to make it fit in the soldering-holes. I'm not that electronically experienced.

Here's a Tayda link: http://www.taydaelectronics.com/hardware/cable-wire/awg-22-red-hook-up -wire-1ft-30cm-stranded.html
Tayda-days ended only yesterday. So you'll have to wait for about a month or so to have the next 15%discount on of your orders.
heapish
Cheers, I'll pick up some locally
heapish
Just double checking. I have v1.01a board. Am I right when I say, I only need to add the flying wire in the Bass Drum and no other mods needed?
heapish
Finished but with problems today. Found this today, wish Id found it ages ago.

https://derekwarren.net/nava/pages/nava-build-guide-addendum.html#gene ral-advice

Check the transistors before placing them.
fattyparts
am i right in thinking that the keycaps for the cherry switches are just standard keyboard caps? i want to replace the white ones that come with the kit to another colour. not sure whether they're the same thing as a standard cap?
mangros
Don't have a Nava but I'm putting together a Yocto2 at the moment and the sequencer side looks almost identical. The caps from the kit are 'OEM' profile, row 1, with the LED window on the sloping side. They are positioned upside down compared with a computer keyboard.
fattyparts
thanks for the info, this is a lot more confusing that i originally thought. don't suppose you know of a UK supplier that stocks these? i might bite the bullet and buy an entire keyboard just get the caps.
mangros


This shows some different profile families with the different row shapes, the Yocto2 shape is definitely the one I've circled. Most readily available keycaps are suitable for Cherry MX-type switches with the plus-shaped stem.

There's nothing to stop you picking a different row or profile, but the trouble you'll have is finding caps with the LED windows. I'm guessing that E-licktronic have consulted someone that had moulds for those (probably from a scroll-lock/num-lock key or something) and ordered loads.

You could always get translucent caps I suppose.

Anyway you can get full sets from a few UK places - however they have less range and are more expensive than the Chinese sellers.

http://www.ukkeycaps.co.uk/category/keycaps
https://mechboards.co.uk/product-category/keycaps/

KBDfans are in China but ship reasonably fast (2 weeks ish) https://kbd.fans/collections/oem-profile
talon
If you Nava owners haven't seen this yet, get onto it:

http://www.e-licktronic.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=25&t=1750

zabox from the forum has released firmware that fixes a whole plethora is issues and also has a beta firmware that enables flam on the Nava.

It's pretty rock solid on v1.027. So many people (including myself) had issues with v1.023, etc and a lot of people suspected build issues - a lot of these were fixed with the firmware by zabox!
Behaviour
Hi,

I'm currently replacing the potentiometers to Alpha vertical D 9mm pots but I'm struggling to find a replacement for VR3 it has a value of 500RB, is there a potentiometer like the alpha's that I can use? Or does anyone have a link to the original B501 that came in the kit as I damaged the original one that was included in the kit.

If there is no replacement I was wondering if its possible to use a higher rated resistance Alpha Pot and change the resistors linked to the pot? I know this sounds vague but I'm desperate to find a solution to my stupid mistake and hopefully learn something new.

I've attached the potentiometer BOM and schematic for reference.

Any help is welcome

Thanks


Behaviour
heapish
talon wrote:
If you Nava owners haven't seen this yet, get onto it:

http://www.e-licktronic.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=25&t=1750

zabox from the forum has released firmware that fixes a whole plethora is issues and also has a beta firmware that enables flam on the Nava.

It's pretty rock solid on v1.027. So many people (including myself) had issues with v1.023, etc and a lot of people suspected build issues - a lot of these were fixed with the firmware by zabox!


YESSS FLAM. Need to fix get back on mine and finish it.
fattyparts
my mouser Nava order has shipped, but i'm lacking two components.

if anyone can help me find these parts here in the UK I would be most grateful as backorders won't be available until 2019 and i haven't a clue as to what i should be searching for. before you ask, my Nava is being built for me smile

581-08051C104J4T4A
08051C104J4T4A
100V .1uF X7R 0805
AVX Multilayer Ceramic Capacitors MLCC - SMD/SMT 4 4
APR 17, 2019

603-MFR-25FRF52150R
MFR-25FRF52-150R
150 OHM 1% 1/4 WATT
Yageo Metal Film Resistors - Through Hole 1 1
NOV 26, 2018
talon
Very common parts, I would be surprised if your builder wouldn’t have these at hand. Otherwise, any local electronics shop will have them.
fattyparts
A quick question about the nava tact switches. Wondered if anyone knows of a better alternative? Everything else is working really well, the new firmware with shuffle is dope! However these nasty tack switches feel really cheap and and act sticky.
prae
hope it's ok to post here, but i'm selling my nava at this time.

pro built by klang generator, lovely metal erica case.

i just don't use it any more...

PM me
automatique
Not sure if I can post this here as well: I have a Nava enclosure (ericasynths) for sale and are located in EU.
Jean Luc Cougar
Any USA builders here? I have all the components / boards / case, I just don't have the time to build this myself. Please do drop me a PM.
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