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WIGGLING 'LITE' IN GUEST MODE

The Phonic Taxidermist
MUFF WIGGLER Forum Index -> Music Tech DIY Goto page Previous  1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8  Next [all]
Author The Phonic Taxidermist
crustypaul
Whats happened to the P of Phonic there?

With limited panel space you might find it more useful to have a Delay return on/off switch, rather than a mic/line switch. I guess it depends on how you 're intending to use the thing, but will you ever be using mic level signals?
Delabelle
It s like that in the font smile delay return switch not bad ... but would like to hear my voice through the module sometimes wink

I m still looking for an existing harmonic engine from circuitbenders panel from somebody... anybody?

Jooooooo
Delabelle
Hello,

Panel for the Phonic Taxidermist available at ponoko.

http://www.ponoko.com/design-your-own/products/phonic-taxidermist-1379 3



Cheers
Delabelle
Ponoko frontpanel arrived, waiting for the chips
tekzon
Hey guys!
A few questions before I order the pcb,
Those who build it with success:
Would you share you card, mouser or whatever?
Where did you find that IC?
Do you have a good one spare?
Barcode, do you still have a panel to sell?
Etc..
Thanks a lot


EDIT
Just ordered a bundle from Paul.
Thanks
mmagin
I haven't yet built mine, but I bought the HT8955A as a used IC from a domestic seller with good ebay feedback, "dalbanicorporation" (probably a lot safer than the Chinese IC sellers), and I bought the RAM IC from jameco.com (which seems to stock a lot more surplus stuff. Definitely going to be socketing both just in case I have trouble.
OsakaScott
Greetings. I've sent a PM to Paul from Circuitbenders on Facebutt already about this, but being the impatient bastard that I am, and with the idea that more heads are better than one, I thought I'd post here as well.

I built two of these, and they both work, but they both exhibit the same sort of odd behavior, being that the delay, feedback and distortion work, but the frequency pot doesn't seem to really have any effect at all—all it does is introduce a rather high frequency whine, which is only barely evident between about 1 or 2 o'clock and max.

After finishing the builds, and playing around with both, I thought, "Well the delay is pretty normal, and the distortion is pretty standard too, but I was thinking there would be more of an actual 'effect' to the thing. Hmmmm." Which led me to re-watch the YouTube videos that put the idea that I Must Have This in my head. Upon watching I learned that evidently there is something amiss with my builds, as there is a very pronounced effect going on with those that is just absent from mine.

The only parts that I substituted from what was listed on the BOM are the four transistors and some capacitors. I can't find BC548 transistors here, so instead I used 2N3904 but placed in reverse from what is screened on the PCB thanks to a different pinout between the two. Regarding the poly film capacitors, seeing as the shop I frequent didn't have them (and unless I spend over $50, it's a $20 shipping slapola to get stuff sent here to Japan from Mouser) I used same value "Multilayer metalized polyester film" capacitors made by Nissei. Little blue jellybean looking things. Now I see the shop has received a huge shipment of WIMA capacitors so I'm wondering if it's worth swapping the current ones out for those.

I've checked that the pots are the right values and oriented correctly (they are). I've also checked that the ICs are the right numbers and put in their sockets the right way (they are). I used a CD4060BE, would a 74HC4060 make a difference?

I'm using a 12V power supply, with reg1 being a 78L12. Aside from no real effect via the Feedback knob, it works fine so I don't think this is an issue.

Any ideas?

Much appreciated, and thanks in advance smile
OsakaScott
For anyone following this... Here's an update.

Paul suggested checking the following:

Power. I've got a 12v switching supply that I measured at 12.26v 0.7a. I'm getting +5.06v at pin 16 of IC4.

R7 - R10, 100K? I checked both units, and these are all within tolerance (between 99.0 - 99.7K).

R16 - R19, 10K? This is where the fun began. Check this out:

Unit 1 Unit 2
R16 2.85K 9.88K
R17 2.85K 9.90K
R18 2.85K 9.90K
R19 2.85K 9.90K

So I decided to check all 10K resistors:

Unit 1 Unit 2
R1 6.94K same
R2 6.90K 6.92K
R4 9.97K same
R15 9.96K same

Not so different, but then there was this:

Unit 1 Unit 2
R25 5.57K 9.06K
R26 5.56K 9.02K

And lastly R36 which measured at 9.96K on both units.

Now, I've read that it's impossible to get an accurate reading when measuring resistors that are soldered to a PCB. Is this really the case though? I measured by touching the probes to the part where the leg and the main body of the resistor meet, without touching the PCB itself, though on the populated side of it. I'm no expert at troubleshooting, I mean basic stuff I can deal with, but why the resistor values should vary so much baffles me. Visually, they are all labeled 10K (Brown Black Black Red Brown).

Any ideas?
Jaytee
If they're installed in the PCB, it messes with the readings because the two points you're measuring may be connected in some other convoluted way.

As for why the two units differ so greatly in their measurements, not sure. Although if they have the same fault, different readings in each unit would seem to indicate it's not part of the problem.
Jaytee
OsakaScott wrote:
I'm using a 12V power supply, with reg1 being a 78L12.


This may not be the issue, but a 78L12 won't properly regulate if you feed it only 12V. You probably want a 78L09 there instead.

This may not be the issue, since it should run on less than 12 volts, but it's at least worth looking into.
fuzzbass
Jaytee wrote:
If they're installed in the PCB, it messes with the readings because the two points you're measuring may be connected in some other convoluted way.

As for why the two units differ so greatly in their measurements, not sure. Although if they have the same fault, different readings in each unit would seem to indicate it's not part of the problem.


I have never gotten a true reading measuring resistors or caps in circuit. I always end up pulling one leg out.
OsakaScott
After a series of back n forth messaging with Paul from Circuitbenders, we still haven't figured the issue out. Dusted off the scope and probed the relevant pins on the 4066, only to find that the square waves are being output OK and they change as expected upon tweaking the frequency knob. At this point, it's looking like I might pull up one leg of the sketchy-measurement resistors and test again. It might also be that the 2N3904s are being finicky, though we don't know why such should be the case. Lastly, it might just be something as simple as not feeding signals which respond well to the chopping effect.

Thanks for the replies though.

smile
monstrinho
It could be something as simple as a bad pot. I've run into that before, and it turned out to be the last thing I checked for.
tekzon
Well, pcb and ic received! Thanks Paul

Does anyone of you have a panel to sell?

Thanks
Starspawn
Join me in nagging Barcode for a new run, I need 3 wink
tekzon
Starspawn wrote:
Join me in nagging Barcode for a new run, I need 3 wink


Ha ha, come on barcode!
we're not worthy
cranleigh
+1 barcode! In the market for a panel too
Starspawn
Well, since then Ive found alternative panels.
Barcode
Oh crap. I totally missed all the requests. I can do another run in the next week or so. I'm going to change the graphics up a bit...
cranleigh
we're not worthy we're not worthy cheers!
der Warst
Whee,
so I finished my first phonic taxidermist and it's working and all!

One of the reasons I got it was the hope that being a delay with external ram, it would be possible to do some nice address-line bends with it. Sadly, all that happens when you short the address lines to ground, 5v or each other, is producing very nasty digital noise, so I guess I'm not really gonna pursue this much further.

One super useful thing that I found out to work well though (and that usually works with most ram-based delays), is shorting the 3rd (WE, or write enable) pin of the ram to 5V. This creates a permanent loop out of what has gone through the delay before. Unlike with a full open feedback, this loop will run forever without degrading, much like a looper pedal. If you put a switch in there, you can easily turn it on and off to add more sounds to the loop.

I'm kind of surprised no one else has come up with this idea so far, as it is a pretty common bend with Ram based gear.

But yeah, try it out. Have fun.
Starspawn
Barcode wrote:
Oh crap. I totally missed all the requests. I can do another run in the next week or so. I'm going to change the graphics up a bit...


Other source didnt work out, so ill add an request for four again wink
cranleigh
Still in the market for one too.
crustypaul
Probably have some panels available soon if anyones interested.
Its based on Barcodes one, but with a delay return switch instead of a mic/line switch.

Starspawn
Yes, whichever one of you that can get me four gets cash wink
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