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Best of CGS Build Thread
MUFF WIGGLER Forum Index -> Music Tech DIY Goto page 1, 2, 3 ... 43, 44, 45  Next [all]
Author Best of CGS Build Thread
Luka
#1


#2


#3



The Bog - The voice panel. (BOG = Bringer of Groove)


The Marsh - The bizarre panel. (MARSH = Mutilated Active Research System Hold)
[/quote]





bananeurysm wrote:
Here is my attempt at a groupdiy/prodigy inspired META regarding the building of serge format modular synthesizers.

Panels.

Currently Zthee has been designing beautiful panels for CGS circuits, and Mono-Poly has been manufacturing them in the form of group buys.
This is a mid-thread link from the current panel buying thread with a graphic of all of the designs that have been run or likely will be run all together
https://www.muffwiggler.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=17005&postdays=0&pos torder=asc&start=280

Original thread (started it all)
https://www.muffwiggler.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=4128&highlight=serge +layout

Panel #2 (programmer/sequencer) thread:
https://www.muffwiggler.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=10525&highlight=serg e+layout

2nd panel rerun thread:
https://www.muffwiggler.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=21277


If you are designing and/or drilling your own - zthee's post in the following thread contains some basic hole-size guidelines:
https://www.muffwiggler.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=11908&start=40

There is a thread that was setup for collecting bits and piece of serge artwork elements for panel design - I can't find it at the moment but will update this post later.

Chassis.

You can build your own or buy an STS boat - but many of us have purchased the readily available alumnimum BUD box mentioned in this thread:
https://www.muffwiggler.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=5936

PCBs.

If you're even looking at this thread it's probably safe to assume you know about Ken Stone's excellent diy pcb offerings. Most of these projects use ALL CGS pcbs. For purchasing, pcb documentation, etc:
http://www.cgs.synth.net/

If you don't want to source parts yourself, bridechamber sells kits for a lot of CGS pcbs:
www.bridechamber.com

so does elby:
www.elby-designs.com

Knobs.

STS uses Davies 1900h knobs. There are plenty of sources for the real thing, but in the US small bear electronics sells reasonable clones.
http://www.smallbearelec.com/Categories.bok?category=Knobs&searchpath= 1336390&start=33&total=47

Word on the street is Malekko is about to come out with some clones as well.

Pots.

For the sequencer/programmer boards - the board mounted pots bridechamber sells supposedly work with ken's pcbs and zthee's panels. (someone should confirm this!)

All other pots are panel mounted - so use whatever you want!

Switches.
Mouser Part number:
Switch: 611-8125-241
Cap: 611-752703000
Dress Nut: 611580700201

Led lenses.
Zthee's panels are designed for CLB300s:
http://fi.mouser.com/ProductDetail/VCC/CLB300YTP/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtS9j8ic OtL0CNYIAl2pkebQwjDRcadLlU%3d

Jacks.
Banana Jacks:
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=J150- ND

Mouser 108-0903-001:
http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=108-0903-001virtualk ey53000000virtualkey530-108-0903-1

Power.

There are plenty of options for power. Ken Stone sells psu pcbs, also note this sticky:
https://www.muffwiggler.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1200

For power distribution - Ken Stone makes a nice little board for this. You'll need the following parts for the pcb and cable connectors:

PCB side: http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Tyco-Electronics/640445-4/?qs=P8zz rVhehatZnQ7HMsIjxw==
Cable side: http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Tyco-Electronics/3-640426-4/?qs=X1 mjqRbeMc4dwcuxqketeA%3d%3d

You will need 18 guage wire for these
and maybe a crimping tool like this: http://parts.digikey.com/1/parts/357324-t-handle-tool-mta-156-59804-1. html

For power between boats - I think some folks are using 4-pin XLR connectors - someone else will need to weigh in on that.

Putting it all together.

One place to start is by looking at the pics zthee posted in this thread (scroll down for zthee's post):
https://www.muffwiggler.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=11606&postdays=0&pos torder=asc&start=20

Here's an explanation:

zthee wrote:
I made a quick sketch on how to mount the PCB.. Pardon my handwriting, so used to writing on the computer, that I almost forgot how to...

This is the way I do it, and the way it's described in the Serge Kit instructions. As Ken said, using the slotted rails and fasteners will NOT provide a solid construction. Since 2 boards support ALL boards. The best way is to use a L or a U shaped aluminum profile and drill holes and fasten the PCBs with screws!

Also, the Serge Kit instructions says not to strap the wires together. But everything should be neatly done with the cables running along the back of the boards and in between the pots/jacks. This isn't hard and with some practice you can make it look neat and nice.



Hinged standoffs are avaiable at Digi-Key http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=351K- ND


Wiring Diagrams:
Panel 1: http://www.thehumancomparator.net/tmp/instructions.jpg
Panel 2: can be derived from ken stone's docs until zthee gives us a drawing for that one. (he's really set the bar too high and there's no turning back!)
Digital Noise http://www.cgs.synth.net/modules/cgs31v11_digital_noise.html
Gated Comparator http://www.cgs.synth.net/modules/cgs13v2_gated_comparator.html
Pulse divider and Boolean Logic http://www.cgs.synth.net/modules/cgs36_pulse_divider.html
Programmer/Sequencer http://www.cgs.synth.net/modules/cgs59_prog.html
Panel 3: TBD

here's a pic of the back of a Ken Stone build - maybe he can explain his technique!
https://www.muffwiggler.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=17005&start=420

pics of fluxmonkey's build here - plus some nice rotary switch p/n's!
https://www.muffwiggler.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=4128&postdays=0&post order=asc&highlight=serge++layout&start=520

Patch cables.

Banana Patch Cables:
http://www.testpath.com/Categories/Banana-Plug-Patch-Cords-1700.htm
http://www.testpath.com/Categories/Banana-Plug-Patch-Cords-PVC-Stackin g-1835.htm
Mouser: http://www.mouser.com/Search/Refine.aspx?Keyword=565-B12-
http://www.rapidonline.com/Cables-Connectors/Connectors-Single-Pole/4m m-

DIY:
Connectors/4mm-Stackable-test-lead-500mm/83063
bulk wire for bananas: mouser# 565-6733-2 for red and 565-6733-0
for black- solderless, stackable bananas ends - mouser# 565-1325-2


There is a lot more that could/should be in this post - but it's a start. Post more info and I can add it!
XCenter
VERY neif one. SlayerBadger!
If you would have described it only by words, I wouldn´t believe that it looks THAT good. With all the colours and bananas and stuff. Uugh. But in facts it looks marvelous to me.
otherunicorn
Assembly and wiring instructions for PCBs used in the Best of CGS modules.

"Best of CGS 2" Sequencer panel:
Digital Noise http://www.cgs.synth.net/modules/cgs31v11_digital_noise.html
Gated Comparator http://www.cgs.synth.net/modules/cgs13v2_gated_comparator.html
Pulse divider and Boolean Logic http://www.cgs.synth.net/modules/cgs36_pulse_divider.html
Programmer/Sequencer http://www.cgs.synth.net/modules/cgs59_prog.html
numan7
and so it begins... nanners

here's one with just some knobs (crookedly arranged btw, cough-cough sorry to anyone with ocd - will make sure extra extra sure everything is aligned in future pix).




the blue and black color scheme doesn't hold a candle to the Ken's, as shown above (and which i will most certainly shamelessly copy at some point twisted). but the blue and black combination should look pretty nice on the B panel, i'd say...

the zthee2 panel needs to have lots and lots of red nanna jacks. it just does!

and the big led lenses look great (sorry if i'm repeating myself)- the more i look at them, the MORE i like them twisted

were the led holes widened from 6.5 to 7mm??

i do have all the circuit boards for this one in hand (if not yet unpacked). i still, however, have a long parts list to track down before the soldering can begin...
Dego
smile
astroschnautzer
numan7 wrote:
and so it begins... nanners

here's one with just some knobs (crookedly arranged btw, cough-cough sorry to anyone with ocd - will make sure extra extra sure everything is aligned in future pix).




the blue and black color scheme doesn't hold a candle to the Ken's, as shown above (and which i will most certainly shamelessly copy at some point twisted). but the blue and black combination should look pretty nice on the B panel, i'd say...

the zthee2 panel needs to have lots and lots of red nanna jacks. it just does!

and the big led lenses look great (sorry if i'm repeating myself)- the more i look at them, the MORE i like them twisted

were the led holes widened from 6.5 to 7mm??

i do have all the circuit boards for this one in hand (if not yet unpacked). i still, however, have a long parts list to track down before the soldering can begin...
actually the blue and black looks pretty good, when all the other stuff is put on the panel...
If you use these : http://fi.mouser.com/ProductDetail/VCC/CMC321RTP/?qs=oNh6xPQP03mZ1B%2f jNlzMFA%3d%3d led lenses the (which I think serge uses on their modern panels) holes have to be drilled from 6.35 to 7mm, there are several colors to choose from and they look great IMO.
zthee
I used the CLB-300 series, not the CMC-321. CLB-300 needs a 6.35mm mounting hole..

http://fi.mouser.com/ProductDetail/VCC/CLB300YTP/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtS9j8ic OtL0CNYIAl2pkebQwjDRcadLlU%3d
otherunicorn
zthee wrote:
I used the CLB-300 series, not the CMC-321. CLB-300 needs a 6.35mm mounting hole..

http://fi.mouser.com/ProductDetail/VCC/CLB300YTP/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtS9j8ic OtL0CNYIAl2pkebQwjDRcadLlU%3d


CLB-300 are the correct ones. They are certainly the ones I have seen on real Serges.
bananeurysm
Here is my attempt at a groupdiy/prodigy inspired META regarding the building of serge format modular synthesizers.

Panels.

Currently Zthee has been designing beautiful panels for CGS circuits, and Mono-Poly has been manufacturing them in the form of group buys.
This is a mid-thread link from the current panel buying thread with a graphic of all of the designs that have been run or likely will be run all together
https://www.muffwiggler.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=17005&postdays=0&pos torder=asc&start=280

Original thread (started it all)
https://www.muffwiggler.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=4128&highlight=serge +layout

Panel #2 (programmer/sequencer) thread:
https://www.muffwiggler.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=10525&highlight=serg e+layout

If you are designing and/or drilling your own - zthee's post in the following thread contains some basic hole-size guidelines:
https://www.muffwiggler.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=11908&start=40

There is a thread that was setup for collecting bits and piece of serge artwork elements for panel design - I can't find it at the moment but will update this post later.

Chassis.

You can build your own or buy an STS boat - but many of us have purchased the readily available alumnimum BUD box mentioned in this thread:
https://www.muffwiggler.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=5936

PCBs.

If you're even looking at this thread it's probably safe to assume you know about Ken Stone's excellent diy pcb offerings. Most of these projects use ALL CGS pcbs. For purchasing, pcb documentation, etc:
http://www.cgs.synth.net/

If you don't want to source parts yourself, bridechamber sells kits for a lot of CGS pcbs:
www.bridechamber.com

so does elby:
www.elby-designs.com

Knobs.

STS uses Davies 1900h knobs. There are plenty of sources for the real thing, but in the US small bear electronics sells reasonable clones.
http://www.smallbearelec.com/Categories.bok?category=Knobs&searchpath= 1336390&start=33&total=47

Word on the street is Malekko is about to come out with some clones as well.

Pots.

For the sequencer/programmer boards - the board mounted pots bridechamber sells supposedly work with ken's pcbs and zthee's panels. (someone should confirm this!)

All other pots are panel mounted - so use whatever you want!

Switches.
Mouser Part number:
Switch: 611-8125-241
Cap: 611-752703000
Dress Nut: 611-702501201

Led lenses.
Zthee's panels are designed for CLB300s:
http://fi.mouser.com/ProductDetail/VCC/CLB300YTP/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtS9j8ic OtL0CNYIAl2pkebQwjDRcadLlU%3d

Jacks.
Banana Jacks:
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=J150- ND

Mouser 108-0903-001:
http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=108-0903-001virtualk ey53000000virtualkey530-108-0903-1

Power.

There are plenty of options for power. Ken Stone sells psu pcbs, also note this sticky:
https://www.muffwiggler.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1200

For power distribution - Ken Stone makes a nice little board for this. You'll need the following parts for the pcb and cable connectors:

PCB side: http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Tyco-Electronics/640445-4/?qs=P8zz rVhehatZnQ7HMsIjxw==
Cable side: http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Tyco-Electronics/3-640426-4/?qs=X1 mjqRbeMc4dwcuxqketeA%3d%3d

You will need 18 guage wire for these
and maybe a crimping tool like this: http://parts.digikey.com/1/parts/357324-t-handle-tool-mta-156-59804-1. html

For power between boats - I think some folks are using 4-pin XLR connectors - someone else will need to weigh in on that.

Putting it all together.

One place to start is by looking at the pics zthee posted in this thread (scroll down for zthee's post):
https://www.muffwiggler.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=11606&postdays=0&pos torder=asc&start=20

Here's an explanation:

zthee wrote:
I made a quick sketch on how to mount the PCB.. Pardon my handwriting, so used to writing on the computer, that I almost forgot how to...

This is the way I do it, and the way it's described in the Serge Kit instructions. As Ken said, using the slotted rails and fasteners will NOT provide a solid construction. Since 2 boards support ALL boards. The best way is to use a L or a U shaped aluminum profile and drill holes and fasten the PCBs with screws!

Also, the Serge Kit instructions says not to strap the wires together. But everything should be neatly done with the cables running along the back of the boards and in between the pots/jacks. This isn't hard and with some practice you can make it look neat and nice.



Hinged standoffs are avaiable at Digi-Key http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=351K- ND


Wiring Diagrams:
Panel 1: http://www.thehumancomparator.net/tmp/instructions.jpg
Panel 2: can be derived from ken stone's docs until zthee gives us a drawing for that one. (he's really set the bar too high and there's no turning back!)
Digital Noise http://www.cgs.synth.net/modules/cgs31v11_digital_noise.html
Gated Comparator http://www.cgs.synth.net/modules/cgs13v2_gated_comparator.html
Pulse divider and Boolean Logic http://www.cgs.synth.net/modules/cgs36_pulse_divider.html
Programmer/Sequencer http://www.cgs.synth.net/modules/cgs59_prog.html
Panel 3: TBD

here's a pic of the back of a Ken Stone build - maybe he can explain his technique!
https://www.muffwiggler.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=17005&start=420

pics of fluxmonkey's build here - plus some nice rotary switch p/n's!
https://www.muffwiggler.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=4128&postdays=0&post order=asc&highlight=serge++layout&start=520

Patch cables.

Banana Patch Cables:
http://www.testpath.com/Categories/Banana-Plug-Patch-Cords-1700.htm
http://www.testpath.com/Categories/Banana-Plug-Patch-Cords-PVC-Stackin g-1835.htm
Mouser: http://www.mouser.com/Search/Refine.aspx?Keyword=565-B12-
http://www.rapidonline.com/Cables-Connectors/Connectors-Single-Pole/4m m-

DIY:
Connectors/4mm-Stackable-test-lead-500mm/83063
bulk wire for bananas: mouser# 565-6733-2 for red and 565-6733-0
for black- solderless, stackable bananas ends - mouser# 565-1325-2


There is a lot more that could/should be in this post - but it's a start. Post more info and I can add it!
astroschnautzer
otherunicorn wrote:
zthee wrote:
I used the CLB-300 series, not the CMC-321. CLB-300 needs a 6.35mm mounting hole..

http://fi.mouser.com/ProductDetail/VCC/CLB300YTP/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtS9j8ic OtL0CNYIAl2pkebQwjDRcadLlU%3d


CLB-300 are the correct ones. They are certainly the ones I have seen on real Serges.
Ok, I have the wrong ones then, so the panel holes where drilled right, my bad (EDIT: except the GC which was supposed to be the small ones for 3mm leds or so the picture atleast showed). They work though and look very nice as long as you drill the holes to 7mm.
zthee
bananeurysm Awesome job!!

I think that post should be quoted in the first post! Luka?
mirri
I like this thread thumbs up
astroschnautzer
I thinkk the boxes are available @mouser too but there is the wrong pic...

3" deep:
http://fi.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Bud-Industries/AC-423/?qs=CQy37LO2z Rmnq5hAbCzctg%3d%3d

2" deep
http://fi.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Bud-Industries/AC-1416/?qs=J02F3jFh wzM6DP4qotH4%252bw%3d%3d

Ps datasheet says holes accept #8 sheetmetal screws so maybe we got the frontpanel screw problem solved...
bananeurysm
yeah i bought some of mine from mouser.

i don't think the machined holes in the boxes line up with the holes in zthee's panels.. but i could be remembering incorrectly.
bananeurysm
zthee wrote:
bananeurysm Awesome job!!

I think that post should be quoted in the first post! Luka?


Thanks! if it's quoted in the first post I won't be able to edit it.

I'm happy to somewhat maintain and update it as people post comments + information - but it would have to stay where it is. (Or i could make a new topic.)
otherunicorn
bananeurysm wrote:
zthee wrote:
bananeurysm Awesome job!!

I think that post should be quoted in the first post! Luka?


Thanks! if it's quoted in the first post I won't be able to edit it.

I'm happy to somewhat maintain and update it as people post comments + information - but it would have to stay where it is. (Or i could make a new topic.)


Just edit your original post and let Luka know when you have, via PM.
bananeurysm
sounds good!

folks should let me know/post if you have knowledge/links i should add!
numan7
kudos on the superb meta write-up bananeurysm!!!

something tells me i will be reading it often...
bananeurysm
thanks - it's a start!

there are a couple glaring gaps:

the switch info. i know i've seen a few links recently to part numbers that work well for the programmer/sequencer panels - but i can't remember which thread! anyone have a forum link handy?

but even more importantly - wiring diagrams. i'll incorporate ken's excellent wiring diagrams for sure - and it would be great to have a zthee diagram for panel 2 (hint, hint!) - i'm updating my post with his panel 1 diagram right now - along with a nice link to fluxmonkey's build.

also - i personally would love some hinge detail. i've seen nice pics - but are these hinges something you can buy at a hardware store? or mcmasters?
Luka
just give me a knock when you want first post updated
im probably wont trawl through and add to it myself
zthee
I made a quick sketch on how to mount the PCB.. Pardon my handwriting, so used to writing on the computer, that I almost forgot how to...

This is the way I do it, and the way it's described in the Serge Kit instructions. As Ken said, using the slotted rails and fasteners will NOT provide a solid construction. Since 2 boards support ALL boards. The best way is to use a L or a U shaped aluminum profile and drill holes and fasten the PCBs with screws!

Also, the Serge Kit instructions says not to strap the wires together. But everything should be neatly done with the cables running along the back of the boards and in between the pots/jacks. This isn't hard and with some practice you can make it look neat and nice.



Hinged standoffs are avaiable at Digi-Key http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=351K- ND
zthee
A fun thing is that on old Serge, the hinges would be placed at the bottom of the panel. So if you had the front panel in front of you, you would fold it down towards you. And thus the top would be nearest you. When looking at the old kit instructions everything will seem to be upside down.
Luka
i wonder where i can get those hinged standoffs locally
none of my hardware stores stock 3mm stuff

ken do you have an aussie source for this kinda stuff?
otherunicorn
Luka wrote:
i wonder where i can get those hinged standoffs locally
none of my hardware stores stock 3mm stuff

ken do you have an aussie source for this kinda stuff?


Not per se. Try one of the inustrial bolt specialists. Hardware shops are useless.
bananeurysm
that's great zthee! i've added your quote and diagram to the writeup.
i have a few questions about it.

1) Do you do those hinged standoffs in 2 places? or 3? (you said 2 pcbs support everything so i suppose 2.)

2) I guess this means the front panel needs additional mounting holes to be screwed into the boat? (the only panel of yours i have so far is the sequencer panel which has no mounting holes atm) It sounds like the whole thing might need 8 mounting holes total yeah? (6 for the case and 2 for the pcb standoffs.) What dimensions do you like to use for those?

3) For the L-profile variant - I guess the standoff would be bolted through the L-bracket and the pcb - just want to clarify.

4) And where do you get u-channels? Is that a hardware store item?
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