MUFF WIGGLER Forum Index
 FAQ & Terms of UseFAQ & Terms Of Use   Wiggler RadioMW Radio   Muff Wiggler TwitterTwitter   Support the site @ PatreonPatreon 
 SearchSearch   RegisterSign up   Log inLog in 
WIGGLING 'LITE' IN GUEST MODE

73-75 Serge panels from Zthee
MUFF WIGGLER Forum Index -> Music Tech DIY Goto page Previous  1, 2, 3, 4 ... 11, 12, 13  Next [all]
Author 73-75 Serge panels from Zthee
cygmu
I thought the PSU took 18 - 36V DC in and put out +/-12V?
realitycontrol
Good point. The traco DC DC converter I purchased for this does indeed take 18 - 36V. BOM notes mention that we can use 9-18V if preferable.

So yeah, I'm after something that will feed 18-36V.
Yamaha PA-20?

Here's the PSU board.
realitycontrol
Remember to match the height of the voltage regulators with the heat sinks before you solder and clip the legs! very frustrating

[/img]
didahdrieghe
Should the pots be 25k or 50k? Pcb/BOM say 25k but BOM links to a 50k part.
realitycontrol
didahdrieghe wrote:
Should the pots be 25k or 50k? Pcb/BOM say 25k but BOM links to a 50k part.


According to Zthee on the 99musik forums you can use anything between 25k and 100k. Though you may need to replace two resistors in the envelope if you use anything other than 50k. Unfortunately he doesn't mention which resistors!

I've used the 50k alps pots, but I'm yet to decide on my power solution so I can't really comment on how well they work just yet.
lintfresh
Missing from posted Mouser Cart:

47uF electrolytic caps Qty 5
I ordered Mouser part# 667-ECA-1VM470I
realitycontrol
lintfresh wrote:
Missing from posted Mouser Cart:

47uF electrolytic caps Qty 5
I ordered Mouser part# 667-ECA-1VM470I


Careful when selecting a replacement. This cap is rather tall compared to the others in the BOM. If using the suggested RK09 pots and 10mm mounting spacers you may need to bend the cap towards the board.
cygmu
realitycontrol wrote:
didahdrieghe wrote:
Should the pots be 25k or 50k? Pcb/BOM say 25k but BOM links to a 50k part.


According to Zthee on the 99musik forums you can use anything between 25k and 100k. Though you may need to replace two resistors in the envelope if you use anything other than 50k. Unfortunately he doesn't mention which resistors!.


From a read of
http://www.cgs.synth.net/modules/cgs76_env.html
and a look at the 73-75 board, I reckon the resistors to worry about are the two 22k either side of the duration pot.
realitycontrol
Well found cygmu.
Sounds like I should replace those 22k resistors with 47k; I'm using the 50k pots from the BOM.
cygmu
Seems reasonable. I think you would be fairly happy even with 50k pots and 22k resistors there but why not make the change?
efexor
Anyone got in touch with Jon lately?
I emailed him to ask if i can Paypal him instead of Visa,but no response.
I know he accepts Paypal,as i payed my TKB-kit like that.
lintfresh
realitycontrol wrote:
lintfresh wrote:
Missing from posted Mouser Cart:

47uF electrolytic caps Qty 5
I ordered Mouser part# 667-ECA-1VM470I


Careful when selecting a replacement. This cap is rather tall compared to the others in the BOM. If using the suggested RK09 pots and 10mm mounting spacers you may need to bend the cap towards the board.


True enough. I'm using Alpha 9mm pots so I will have room.
Here's a smaller alternative ("small-ternative"): 667-ECE-A1EKA470
lintfresh
What are folks plans for boats/enclosures and where do you plan to put the PSU?

I'm thinking about maybe using 3" deep Hammond boats so I have room for the reverb tank behind panel 1 and the PSU pcb behind panel 2.

Also, rack ears? I'm thinking about trying the Random Source ones. They look nice.
sempervirent
For those worried about non-threaded D-shaft pots, the Alps RK09 footprint is the same as the threaded Alpha 9mm pots from Thonk, Tayda, etc.

Thonk actually has 1/4" round shaft and D-shaft:
https://www.thonk.co.uk/shop/alpha-9mm-pots/t
www.thonk.co.uk/shop/alpha-9mm-pots-dshaft

cygmu wrote:
One pcb for two panels, though? Crumbs.

It looks like the board is scored, so you could snap them apart (maybe someone who actually has the set could confirm).

tojpeters wrote:
So if you need to replace a pot you need to desolder every jack first? How is that easier than panel wiring?

You could use a single pin header and a jumper wire.
APETECHNOLOGY
this might not be popular...
but i am going to drill out the panels and install bezels and led's for the slews and the envelopes.

i like the "blinky" lights !



Dancing Star
APETECHNOLOGY
[quote="sempervirent"]For those worried about non-threaded D-shaft pots, the Alps RK09 footprint is the same as the threaded Alpha 9mm pots from Thonk, Tayda, etc.

thats great news, but are the holes in the aluminum panel 7mm/.275" ?
are the holes large enough to except the 9mm alphas is my question.
thank you!
cygmu
APETECHNOLOGY wrote:

thats great news, but are the holes in the aluminum panel 7mm/.275" ?
are the holes large enough to except the 9mm alphas is my question.
thank you!


Yes, I just tried and they fit no problem. PCB footprint is also a confirmed match.

In doing this test-fit I also discovered that the silkscreen comes off the front panel very easily, so if you prefer a blank aluminium panel, that should be a pretty easy mod smile Be careful!
sempervirent
cygmu wrote:
In doing this test-fit I also discovered that the silkscreen comes off the front panel very easily, so if you prefer a blank aluminium panel, that should be a pretty easy mod smile Be careful!

I'm hoping for a PCB-only option myself... anyone else?

Also @cygmu if you have the boards could you comment about being able to separate them (see edit to my post above).
APETECHNOLOGY
"I'm hoping for a PCB-only option myself... anyone else?"

after the comment cygmu just made, yes i am!
waah
m.o
sempervirent wrote:
For those worried about non-threaded D-shaft pots, the Alps RK09 footprint is the same as the threaded Alpha 9mm pots from Thonk, Tayda, etc.

Thonk actually has 1/4" round shaft and D-shaft:
https://www.thonk.co.uk/shop/alpha-9mm-pots/t
www.thonk.co.uk/shop/alpha-9mm-pots-dshaft

cygmu wrote:
One pcb for two panels, though? Crumbs.

It looks like the board is scored, so you could snap them apart (maybe someone who actually has the set could confirm).

tojpeters wrote:
So if you need to replace a pot you need to desolder every jack first? How is that easier than panel wiring?

You could use a single pin header and a jumper wire.


The ALPS pots have 4mm longer flat on the shaft (not sure if it matters much).

It's one PCB per panel + PSU PCB.

The jacks are connected to pcb with a short wire (jacks are not soldered directly) similar to Romans pcbs, if make the wires a little longer it should be easy to separate the pcb from the panel.
cygmu
APETECHNOLOGY wrote:
"I'm hoping for a PCB-only option myself... anyone else?"

after the comment cygmu just made, yes i am!
waah


CGS PCBs for almost all the circuits are available and have been for years. The only exceptions are the oscillator -- not sure whether this is a Serge design that Jon has cloned -- and the reverb and preamp.

There isn't very heavy scoring between the sections on the 73-75 PCB, but it is one board per panel rather than one for both panels.
realitycontrol
The PSU board could comfortably be attached to the back of the Ring or Gate sections of the top board with spacers.
Though in the interest of noise, space and heat I'll be looking to mount the PSU board in the floor of the bottom boat.

The Hammond 1773 fits nicely, plenty of space for the PSU & reverb tank.

Anyone had any experience using rivet nuts on the 1773's?
lcf
lintfresh wrote:
realitycontrol wrote:
lintfresh wrote:
Missing from posted Mouser Cart:

47uF electrolytic caps Qty 5
I ordered Mouser part# 667-ECA-1VM470I


Careful when selecting a replacement. This cap is rather tall compared to the others in the BOM. If using the suggested RK09 pots and 10mm mounting spacers you may need to bend the cap towards the board.


True enough. I'm using Alpha 9mm pots so I will have room.
Here's a smaller alternative ("small-ternative"): 667-ECE-A1EKA470

Here is an other one. I just swaped the 22 from previous reference with 47. Not ordered yet.

667-ECE-A1CKA470I
muncky
realitycontrol wrote:
The PSU board could comfortably be attached to the back of the Ring or Gate sections of the top board with spacers.
Though in the interest of noise, space and heat I'll be looking to mount the PSU board in the floor of the bottom boat.

The Hammond 1773 fits nicely, plenty of space for the PSU & reverb tank.

Anyone had any experience using rivet nuts on the 1773's?


Rob, I'd recommend just tapping the holes in the hammond for this - works well, and really simple. Very easy to use, and only question will be do you need to cut off the short edges of the boat? Don't have mine yet, but in the past I used a jigsaw and a sander when required. Just drill the holes c 2mm or 2.5mm and off you go.

Tapping kit link: https://www.ebay.co.uk/i/282361131082
lintfresh
muncky wrote:
realitycontrol wrote:
The PSU board could comfortably be attached to the back of the Ring or Gate sections of the top board with spacers.
Though in the interest of noise, space and heat I'll be looking to mount the PSU board in the floor of the bottom boat.

The Hammond 1773 fits nicely, plenty of space for the PSU & reverb tank.

Anyone had any experience using rivet nuts on the 1773's?


Rob, I'd recommend just tapping the holes in the hammond for this - works well, and really simple. Very easy to use, and only question will be do you need to cut off the short edges of the boat? Don't have mine yet, but in the past I used a jigsaw and a sander when required. Just drill the holes c 2mm or 2.5mm and off you go.

Tapping kit link: https://www.ebay.co.uk/i/282361131082


Or just drill small pilot holes and use self-tapping metal screws. I've done this a bunch with Hammond boats.
MUFF WIGGLER Forum Index -> Music Tech DIY Goto page Previous  1, 2, 3, 4 ... 11, 12, 13  Next [all]
Page 3 of 13
Powered by phpBB © phpBB Group