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SRE330 build
MUFF WIGGLER Forum Index -> Oakley Sound Systems  
Author SRE330 build
Pav
Hi Tony,

some additional thoughts on the buildguide as i am building.

the build guide talks to the (dc) power led on the SRE330 main board but does not mention the AC led in the RPSU issue2.

It is not in the parts list so we are not expected to use it.

Instructions do say omit R5 ,D11, and C13 of which R5 and D11 would be needed to complete the led circuit, maybe all three. So if the reader does not have the schematic they might be helped by mentioning these are for the LED which is not used / optional.

Can it be used in SRE330 as a standby led ?

Also .. if using external PSU should there be a mention of RPSU "CASE" pad not being necessary as well as the AC LED when used with SRE?

currently it is only discussed in the transformer option section.

finally ..it might be worth bringing forward to the parts section the sentence about their being no harm in fitting Fuse1 and diodes even if using 1/2 wave rectification to the parts list section.

I am still not sure which way i will go ..I have a 1A AC switchable wall wart sitting on the shelf..with a 15V option saying "use me use me".
Synthbuilder
Pav wrote:
the build guide talks to the (dc) power led on the SRE330 main board but does not mention the AC led in the RPSU issue2.

The suggested build doesn't use the RPSU's standby LED as it tries to keep things simple as much as possible. However, you could populate the parts shown on the RPSU schematic and use it for a standby LED. Having a standby LED is quite a good idea since it does tell you the linelump/wallwart is live.

Quote:
Also .. if using external PSU should there be a mention of RPSU "CASE" pad not being necessary as well as the AC LED when used with SRE?


I could certainly add this information to future revision of the guide.

Quote:
it might be worth bringing forward to the parts section the sentence about their being no harm in fitting Fuse1 and diodes even if using 1/2 wave rectification to the parts list section.


Noted.

Tony
Pav
Hi, I just need some reassurance before soldering the switchcraft io sockets recommended that there is only one way to fit the pins. Looking at the top side PCb, I have the shamfered corner bottom left. This does seem consistent with other sock boards. Maybe worth a mention in the build guide. I suppose I should compare specs with schematics and form a conclusion.
All the best for 2018.
Synthbuilder
Pav wrote:
I just need some reassurance before soldering the switchcraft io sockets recommended that there is only one way to fit the pins.


They should fit in one way only. At least that's what I thought. help

Can they put in more than one way? I've not got any stereo ones here at the moment to try out.

Remember to fit them to the underside of the board though.

Tony
Pav
I tested again..You are right, it does appear there is only one way to fit these stereo sockets. Thanks
Pav
Tried again..you are correct ...only one way .ta
Synthbuilder
Good to know. Thanks for trying it. thumbs up
Pav
just spent a couple of hours fitting the SRE330 pcb to its front panel. This is the Bryant 1U 250mm deep 19” rack enclosure.

I thought i had done a reasonable drilling job for the pots using the fpd example, but I appear to have made a couple of tiny (some would say slapdash ) errors.

a) horizontal alignment of template to panel:

The template does not extend to the rack lugs so looking at the picture in build guide , I now suspect that i had to line up the template to the "flange" edge of the front panel ..ie where you screw it to the top or bottom panels. I might have done that or I might have just centered the template.

Which would be the better way?

The issue i have is the proximity of the screw hole fittings...I have barely 1mm gap between the plastic thread insert and an input socket pin, and the opposite side this insert is directly aligned to where the "ON" led is to be fitted.

As long as I check the screws do not penetrate onto the case and short anything ..I think i have just got away with it.

b) pcb fitted switches

with the pots successfully soldered..i came to fit the switches. Here my drilling let me down with one hole needing filing as it was too tight.
However im surprised the metal sleeves of the switches are barely reaching the holes. I would expect them to protrude at least a couple of mm so that the full length of the toggle can be got at.

What might i have done wrong here?
..the nuts on the pots are all tightened, the switches were soldered as per the buildguide.

In hindsight, I might recommend the less expereienced DIYer like me to avoid the pcb mounted switches and use the switches used on the Oakley modules - Just to allow some wiggle room if the holes are not 100% perfect.

I just have the LEDs and interconnects to wire up, and the ICs to fit and i will be ready to test this week.
nanners
Synthbuilder
Pav wrote:
.... horizontal alignment of template to panel.

It fits in the middle of the panel both horizontally and vertically. You need to ensure that the distance between the ends of the template and the vertical edges of the rack panel is the same for both left and right. I just did it by eye.

Quote:
The issue i have is the proximity of the screw hole fittings...I have barely 1mm gap between the plastic thread insert and an input socket pin, and the opposite side this insert is directly aligned to where the "ON" led is to be fitted.

You've lost me there. Is this on the back panel?

Quote:
pcb fitted switches

If you are using a Scheaffer overlay like on the first prototype you can be quite sloppy with your drilling. The overlay will cover up the naughties. Just make the switch holes bigger than you need and the Schaeffer panel will hide the excessive panel holes. I also make the pot holes in the case around 8mm. This gives the board some wiggle room.

If you are not using the Schaeffer overlay like my second one:



Accurate drilling is required.

Quote:
im surprised the metal sleeves of the switches are barely reaching the holes. I would expect them to protrude at least a couple of mm so that the full length of the toggle can be got at.

If you're not using the Schaeffer overlay they are perfect - see picture above. With the overlay they only just touch the inner surface of the overlay and the toggles are partially buried. You should still be able to adjust them easily enough though.

Tony
Synthbuilder
A builder has reported a fault in the Builder's Guide Versions 2.5 and earlier.

The correct values are:

R102 is 56K
R104 is 330K

Version 2.5 and earlier have these the wrong way around.

Sorry for any confusion this may have caused.

Tony
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