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WIGGLING 'LITE' IN GUEST MODE

TouellSkouarn Skorn Da Bask
MUFF WIGGLER Forum Index -> Music Tech DIY  
Author TouellSkouarn Skorn Da Bask
talfred
Hello,


I recently built the Skorn da Bask from a kit I got from Thonk.
Sadly, something went wrong and when I plugged it in, a few of the resistors got burned.

I the noticed a solder bridge, possibly on one of the pots. So I hope that was the reason it burned, and that the burned resistors can be changed. I'm gonna try to fix it.

But I need a picture of the unpopulated board to identify the burned resistors, so if anybody here got one, I would be grateful!
MAXTHEDOG
Having looked at the build manual, could you not ID the resistors in their positions on the board and their colours? Thats what I've had to do when I've had problems.
I've not got that module but I can't see why you won't be able to do that, its a pretty good document.

Regards,
MTD.
talfred
MAXTHEDOG wrote:
Having looked at the build manual, could you not ID the resistors in their positions on the board and their colours? Thats what I've had to do when I've had problems.
I've not got that module but I can't see why you won't be able to do that, its a pretty good document.

Regards,
MTD.


Thanks!

Actually, just after posting, I looked in the manual, and there was an illustration there with all the resistor numbers written on (I had only previouslo looked in the build manual). So that problem is fixed! I only hope it's only a few resistors that are broken and not other components..

I'll find out..
MAXTHEDOG
Hi,
No problem. It's a pity 'cause it looks a good module, and its not cheap!

Hopefully it'll just be possibly R17 and R42 (10ohms near the power connector, connected to the reverse polarity diodes) that will have burned out due to the excess current.
I'd take all the IC's out, power it up, check for the correct voltage on either side of those resistors, do they look right? I ask this 'cause I've just connected a Fonik Cascade reverse polarity in a Doepfer case. It wasted the equivalent resistors, the case worked for two days then the PSU3 failed. Replaced the resistors and the Cascade is ok now in my DIY case with a proper linear PSU (Not a fan of switched mode PSU's for modulars). I'd also check the voltage at the IC power pins before putting them back in.

Good luck, its all good practice. thumbs up
Regards,
MTD.
ZatsuOn
I built the Skorn da Bask over the holiday break, and I can't tell if it's working right or not. I'm not getting what I'd expect from the controls as they are (very lightly) described in the manual -- especially while routing the oscillators through the filter. (Using them for filter mod and driving filter self resonating seem a lot like what I'd expect...)

Does anyone have advice on how to calibrate the trim pots and/or how to confirm "expected behavior" on a module like this that does mostly the unexpected?

I will say that Skorn da Bask + Batumi == hours of amusement!

Thanks!
talfred
MAXTHEDOG wrote:
Hi,
No problem. It's a pity 'cause it looks a good module, and its not cheap!

Hopefully it'll just be possibly R17 and R42 (10ohms near the power connector, connected to the reverse polarity diodes) that will have burned out due to the excess current.
I'd take all the IC's out, power it up, check for the correct voltage on either side of those resistors, do they look right? I ask this 'cause I've just connected a Fonik Cascade reverse polarity in a Doepfer case. It wasted the equivalent resistors, the case worked for two days then the PSU3 failed. Replaced the resistors and the Cascade is ok now in my DIY case with a proper linear PSU (Not a fan of switched mode PSU's for modulars). I'd also check the voltage at the IC power pins before putting them back in.

Good luck, its all good practice. thumbs up
Regards,
MTD.



Hey, thanks, you must be an expert!

As far as I can see, it's only the two resistors you mentioned that are broken. I actually powered off after a few seconds only so hopfully that saved the IC's. I got new resistors from mouser here the other day, so I'm soon gonna try to solder it again.

I see the mistake is probably a solder bridge between pin 2 and 3 of the resonance pot. But I'm not so experienced so I can't tell if this might be the reason for it burning..

+1 for the linear PSU, I'm using a uZeus to test new modules, but it's been causing a few modules not to function properly (like the MN PressurePoints)
MAXTHEDOG
thumbs up
Thanks for that, but I'm definitely not an expert. I'm about 9 months in front of you. hihi
Can't really say whether the pot bridge has done it, but it'll need removing.

If you want a cheap PSU to test try the small Frequency Central one. You'll need to buy a 12v AC not DC wall wart. It's still switched mode I admit but I use it to test all my new modules and I've never had any issues.

The MN PP issues you've had has it been the resistive tracks or the gate/VC's that were dodgy? It can be a bit fussy on the tracks(so I've read).
MTD.
Michiel
I built a Skorn da Bask from one of the Thonk kits last month. Also had some problems with it, that turned out to be a bad solder joint of one of the 1N4004 diodes. These are both close to the power header, so worth checking out.

It is a pretty dense build, so make sure that the housings of the jacks don't touch any of the other solder joints.

If you are getting your information from the diy instructions on the TouellSkourn web site then there are a few differences compared with the Thonk kit build guide. I gathered that the Thonk kit is the most recent version, so stick to those values. (The differences I found relate to R5/R52, R34 as well as some of the capacitors and diodes - but if you're looking at R17 and R42, then those are the same in both guides).

It might also be worth contacting Gaƫl through the contact form on his web site. He's pretty helpful.

Good luck!

p.s. I love the module, even got a Sonveskan since then.
talfred
Today I changed the two broken 10 Ohm resistors and fixed the solder bridge and cleaned up the pcb. And then when powering on it worked! So thanks for your help and suggestions!

It's a very intersting drone module. But I didn't like the pcb all that much. Like Michiel said it's very dense, and one of the biggest problems is that the electrolytic capasitors on the back are very easy to break, it must be treated very carefully. The knobs at the front is a little too dense as well, making it hard to wiggle. But it sounds very good!

I might try the Sonveskan too!
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