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WIGGLING 'LITE' IN GUEST MODE

The 2018 Show Us Your DIY Builds Thread
MUFF WIGGLER Forum Index -> Music Tech DIY Goto page Previous  1, 2, 3 ... 16, 17, 18 ... 25, 26, 27  Next [all]
Author The 2018 Show Us Your DIY Builds Thread
donturner
Probably old news but I just got into building the Mutable modules. So far I've successfully built 3 braids and have a veils, yarns and rings in progress. Really is a lot of fun. Still can't believe that MI designs are open source!

Finished PCB
With faceplate

Would've uploaded these as images but don't have sufficient post count.
extralifedisco
Hello MW! My first post here - I just finished up the the last module to in a functional synth path for my all-DIY modular! It's 2 rows of 88HP in a homemade "eurorack" case. From left-to-right:

-M.F.O.S. VCO (very tight squeeze as this board is 130mm)
-AI Synthesis mixer
-AI Synthesis envelope
-Passive mult
-Yusynth Moog VCF
-MOTM µVCA
[blank]
-DIY Attenuator
-Power in/switch
[bottom row]
-Erica Synths DIY-MIDI-CV[/img]
-Homemade "MK107" 8-step seq (from velleman "running lights" kit 107)
-Barton Simple Quantizer



Really enjoying it so far! Need to add at least one more VCO, some attenuverter/math stuff, and some FX (just been running through my guitar pedals for now, works well enough!). I recorded a little jam last night to show off some of the sounds. Enjoy: lol

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JTIbva5DVwk
OB1
extralifedisco wrote:
Hello MW! My first post here - I just finished up the the last module to in a functional synth path for my all-DIY modular! It's 2 rows of 88HP in a homemade "eurorack" case. From left-to-right:

-M.F.O.S. VCO (very tight squeeze as this board is 130mm)
-AI Synthesis mixer
-AI Synthesis envelope
-Passive mult
-Yusynth Moog VCF
-MOTM µVCA
[blank]
-DIY Attenuator
-Power in/switch
[bottom row]
-Erica Synths DIY-MIDI-CV[/img]
-Homemade "MK107" 8-step seq (from velleman "running lights" kit 107)
-Barton Simple Quantizer



Really enjoying it so far! Need to add at least one more VCO, some attenuverter/math stuff, and some FX (just been running through my guitar pedals for now, works well enough!). I recorded a little jam last night to show off some of the sounds. Enjoy: lol

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JTIbva5DVwk


Nice! Do you have any more info about that 107 sequencer? Looking to DIY an 8 step seq and that looks wicked.
extralifedisco
OB1 wrote:

Nice! Do you have any more info about that 107 sequencer? Looking to ADIT an 8 step seq and that looks wicked.


Sure, I mostly just followed the instructions from MirlitronOne in this video:
MK107 Sequencer on Youtube

The velleman kit can be had here for $8.50
MK107: Velleman: LED Running light kit on Jameco

The first modification I made of course is to swap out the 9v battery for +12v and ground leads. I just used some wires soldered to a 5-pin header, which plugs into the eurorack power connector (make sure to get it right so you don't use -12v).

The only other mod was to add a clock in/out. You have to cut one trace and then add 2 wires - one on the output of the 555, and the other on the input of the shift register. Wire those to the pins of a switched mono jack and you have a clock input, wire the 555 to another and you have an output. I believe that configuration sends the clock out inverted from eurorack standard, so it might be better to send it through a TL072 and invert first. But that makes the switching a little more difficult and I don't have any other clocks modules to verify my theory. Anyhow it seems to work fine receiving clock from my MIDI interface but I suspect it may be offset from the master clock by a few ms because of the inverted signal and pulse length.

Also MirlitronOne recommends using silicon schottky or germanium diodes - I didn't have any on hand so I used 1N4148 and I have to say the range is a bit fiddly - a whole lot of travel at the edges of the scale. Probably better to follow his advice!
Rex Coil 7
extralifedisco wrote:
Hello MW! My first post here - I just finished up the the last module to in a functional synth path for my all-DIY modular! It's 2 rows of 88HP in a homemade "eurorack" case. From left-to-right:

-M.F.O.S. VCO (very tight squeeze as this board is 130mm)
-AI Synthesis mixer
-AI Synthesis envelope
-Passive mult
-Yusynth Moog VCF
-MOTM µVCA
[blank]
-DIY Attenuator
-Power in/switch
[bottom row]
-Erica Synths DIY-MIDI-CV[/img]
-Homemade "MK107" 8-step seq (from velleman "running lights" kit 107)
-Barton Simple Quantizer



Really enjoying it so far! Need to add at least one more VCO, some attenuverter/math stuff, and some FX (just been running through my guitar pedals for now, works well enough!). I recorded a little jam last night to show off some of the sounds. Enjoy: lol

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JTIbva5DVwk
LIB! (that's southwestern desert hippie for "well I'll be!") ... nice video, killer little tune! That little synth sounds really X! ("excellent") Serious now, it sounds really nice and ff..ff..ff..fat-az mang!

How well does the Barton quantizer work? I have 3 Dual Nice Quantizers I have yet to complete (they were given to me about 1/3rd built by one of our members). So I'm curious as to how well you like it?

thumbs up nice swing at it ....so please ...



OB1
Thanks extralifedisco! Gonna give that a go for sure!!
rob cruickshank
I made a clock divider with a symbol nixie for a display:

Video here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xsLKz8NmFss
Jarno
Damn cool, how'd you do it?
appliancide
Finished up (mostly) two perfboard projects this weekend. First was the Echo-Matic tape delay (more details in this thread).



Second one is Ian Fritz's Fretter ribbon controller. I don't have a panel made for this one yet, but I am going to play it as-is during a gig I have coming up in a couple of weeks. I'm going to stick the ribbon right to the top of my Ikea case. IKEA Rast That gig, along with the fact that I found myself with a few extra softpot ribbons*, motivated me to build this. In addition to the panel, I need to order the right value cap for the sample and hold. It works pretty great already though!



The echo was built without a layout. I just made it up as I went along. The circuit was perfect the first time, though I did spend several hours troubleshooting it, before figuring out that the audio problems were due to the tape deck I was using. I laid the ribbon controller out beforehand, and still made a few mistakes (in the layout and during the build) that had to be tracked down. The moral of the story is "just wing it, and it will work". Ok, the real moral of the story is that I need to start laying out actual circuit boards.

*I've been slowing planning and acquiring parts for a pair of Appendage ribbon controllers. I ordered three Softpot ribbons, so I would have a spare. After I got the parts from Mouser, I decided that the Thinpot ribbons were going to work better for me. I sent a message to Mouser's support asking if I could return and/or exchange the Softpot ribbons. They responded by refunding my money and telling me that I could discard the Softpot ribbons instead of returning them! Discard?! Oh yes, they will be discarded. One down, two to go. twisted
Rex Coil 7
Speaking of ribbon controllers;

I bought a Dot Com 20" ribbon controller. I took the full length walnut stick off of it, and mounted the ribbon directly on to the walnut top of the QKB61 5 octave controller kybd using the same two screws that normally attach the ribbon to the walnut stick. The ribbon is actually attached to a 0.125" thick aluminum strip that runs full length of the ribbon, that is what I removed from the walnut stick. I placed it on the kybd so that if I find a spare $520.00 in the clothes dryer or a pants pocket in the laundry a second ribbon controller can mount right next to the existing one without about 1.0 inch between them.





They transmit signals for horizontal movement as well as pressure. There's also a gate trigger momentary button on the aluminum block at the left end of the ribbon (the little black ~dot~ on the block is the momentary button).

So .... yea ..... ribbons!

applause
Synthbuilder
I finally got around to putting a front panel overlay onto my new ADR30 analogue delay project.



The case is a cheap Takachi YM-300, available from various places but I got mine from RS Components in the UK for about twenty pounds. The front panel overlay is a 1.5mm thick Scheaffer engraved panel which was about 25 pounds. The nice thing about the overlay method is that it hides any problems with the drilling of the main case. For the first time I didn't use the paint infill on the text. This cuts the price down considerably and still looks fine.

The Takachi project cases are made from thin aluminium - painted black on the outside of the lower part and a sort of a shiny brushed finish on the top. It's very easy to drill - perhaps too easy to drill as one can easily makeyour holes too big when using a cone cutter. Note the use of an oversized washer to hold the power socket as I made the hole just too big for the socket's outer flange.



The whole thing turns out quite neat:



More information about the project can be found here:

http://www.oakleysound.com/ADR30.htm

Tony
roglok
Looks and sounds great, Tony! Any plans for voltage control of frequency and feedback?
Monkizzle
Nice and easy triple VCA in 3hp.
srsly never

Synthbuilder
roglok wrote:
Looks and sounds great, Tony! Any plans for voltage control of frequency and feedback?


Delay time is voltage controllable via a socket on the rear panel. But feedback isn't. However, it's got a separate delay only output which could be fed through an external VCA which could then be summed back into the input.

If I ever get around to doing a modular version of the ADR30, it'll have voltage control over all parameters. But the main reason for doing the ADR30 was to test out some ideas I had which are going to be used in the effects section of the standalone Oakley Mysterious Audio Plaything synth. More details on that one later.

Tony
Rex Coil 7
Synthbuilder wrote:
I finally got around to putting a front panel overlay onto my new ADR30 analogue delay project.



.... For the first time I didn't use the paint infill on the text. This cuts the price down considerably and still looks fine....

Tony
Indeed, it does look fine without any infill. However, a bit of advice on that choice;

If you use a large type face the engraving process used may leave visible tool traces. Said another way, when they engrave characters that have ~thick~ lines, rather than using a "thicker tool" and a single pass, they use a small tool and make several passes. When completed, the individual passes are easily visible. There may be a few issues I overlooked when I designed this panel, since it was my very first attempt using Front Panel Designer (I have since used it several times with excellent results ... experience is everything)

For example, look carefully inside of the larger letters. You can easily see each pass that was made by the engraving tool that was used in the mill. There are several factors involved that produce these anomalies. A dull/worn tool, the incorrect travel speed, incorrect tool RPM, incorrect tool choice, as well as combinations of any of those factors.

The first image is of an enclosure that is roughly 4.5" x 2.25" (for context), the second image is more of a close up.





Clearly, infilling would have hidden the machining marks. Granted, I allowed FPD to automatically select the tool when I designed the panel. Had I known the consequences ahead of time, I may have made a different cutting tool selection myself instead of allowing the program to select a default tool.

So just be aware that this can happen if characters that are larger than the tool FPE uses to cut those characters, there may be visible tooling "signatures".

Tony, nice looking enclosure! I really love the doubled panel look (used it myself on a construct). Another advantage that choice offers is should you decide to change any of the controls (add more, use fewer, whatever ..) you may simply design another panel without having to use another enclosure. You can have the front panel of the enclosure itself look like swiss cheese with a dozen holes, the cover panel hides many evils.

cool
rob cruickshank
Jarno wrote:
Damn cool, how'd you do it?

The clock is just a schmitt trigger oscillator (the pot is reverse-log so it has nice linear responce) that feeds a dual counter chip which provides on one side the divide outputs, and on the other side the address to a nixie decoder. I used a Russian K155ID, which is equivalent to the hard-to get 74141. There are outputs for clock, inverted clock, and a 1ms pulse at the clock rate as well as the divide outs. The nixie is a IN1V: https://tubehobby.com/show_det.php?det=19
and the power supply for it is the one found here, with a MAX1771 substituted for the obsolete 771. http://www.electricstuff.co.uk/nixpsu.html
Reese P. Dubin


I have a bunch of stuff to add here when i take the time to shoot some pictures. In the meantime I just finished this yesterday when it arrived in the mail.

Synthesis Technology E370 Quad Morphing Oscillator in 4U.
This is really recalibrating me completely.
Cutting the window and SD card slot by hand would have been very hard but i had the fortune of being able to trace my pals panel before w assembled his unit.
Dr. Sketch-n-Etch
Synthbuilder wrote:
I finally got around to putting a front panel overlay onto my new ADR30 analogue delay project.



Beautiful build, Tony! However, I think that you could have used a few more zip-ties on those wires.
Rex Coil 7
Dr. Sketch-n-Etch wrote:
Synthbuilder wrote:
I finally got around to putting a front panel overlay onto my new ADR30 analogue delay project.



Beautiful build, Tony! However, I think that you could have used a few more zip-ties on those wires.
Nerp .... spiral loom .... brightly colored spiral loom.




meh lol applause hihi w00t thumbs up
ucacjbs
A couple of builds (been a while!)

First off, Oakley Classic VCA, behind a frontpanel express panel -- took the hole positions from Tony's fpd file changed the font a bit and added the boundary line to match a few other FPE red panels in my synth.




Secondly, a headphone amp for my test bench. Basically a single channel version of AV500's 4HP. I completely goofed on the panel design -- time running out on my ponoko intro offer, so a late night session resulted in a panel with the following problems:
1) 3.5mm jack holes too small d'oh!
2) Forgot hole for volume pot d'oh! d'oh!
3) Panel not actually 3U height, but a bit bigger. very frustrating

1 and 2 fixed by a few minutes with my drill press. 3 not critical, since my test bench 'rack' is a couple of pieces of wood that I just drill holes into as necessary. Phew.





My first layout since 1988. Works fine, but I used the standard OSH park pad size, which is basically minute and a real pain to solder. Also forgot to clearly label the panel wires on the silk screen. Once all soldered, it did work first time, so that's a plus. It's peanut butter jelly time!
Synthbuilder
Dr. Sketch-n-Etch wrote:
Beautiful build, Tony! However, I think that you could have used a few more zip-ties on those wires.


thumbs up

Yeah, I put one in the middle at first. But the damn thing wasn't straight enough to be out of the way for some of the photos I wanted to take. It's 24/0.2 wire so it doesn't bend that easily. So I put another tie in, which made it look asymmetrical and didn't look right so I added another couple more.

But now you mention it... I could probably put a few more on there. Dead Banana

Tony
Rex Coil 7
ucacjbs wrote:
A couple of builds (been a while!)

First off, Oakley Classic VCA, behind a frontpanel express panel -- took the hole positions from Tony's fpd file changed the font a bit and added the boundary line to match a few other FPE red panels in my synth.



Really nice looking panel. Is that red anodized aluminum? I've been using their "natural" anodized aluminum panels with black infilled lettering. However, I've been thinking about trying something different, like red or blue. The ~beige~ looks pretty nice as well.

I like the border you added. Looks classy.

Well done! thumbs up
motormenace
Finally got a chance to finish this. Really nice filter....[/img]

robpiya
After reading multiple forums it seemed that the first thing I needed work on was a decent power supply for my modules. I have 3U/84HP of modules now and before starting my second row I wanted to put my time and energy on making a good power supply and power distribution. I would like to thank Graham Hinton, Rex Coil 7, Zaibach (along with many others here on Muffwiggler) and Oscar Salas over at Electro-music for all their knowledge and advice. Without their sharing of information on power supply design this project would not have been possible or even conceivable.

I wanted to start off with a simple LM317/337 design which could power about two rows of modules (750mA-900mA). Many here on Muffwiggler suggest to go for multiple supplies than rely on one big one which made sense and since managing the heat + heat-sinking from larger supplies is a challenge, I started out with a >1A supply. I chose a 50VA toroidal transformer (2x15V) which is regulated to +/-12V (I don't use 5V). I used the schematics provided by Oscar of the LM317/337 design and got Oshpark to make me a few copies.


After putting everything together and testing with a dummy load (16 ohm power resistor) for a few hours the temperatures on the regulators/bridge rectifier seems to be hovering around 55C (ambient 22C). I will be putting a cover over the mains area (transformer, switch and terminal barrier).


I guess there was no point designing the supply if I wasn't going to upgrade the power distribution from flying ribbon cables. So as Graham Hinton has expounded in so many threads, I went with the busbar distribution.


Of course I had to also make cables for the busbar distro (I know I used mixed colors for which I will be reprimanded).


Now onto making a case for the supply and start making some more modules!!!
ucacjbs
Rex Coil 7 wrote:
Really nice looking panel. Is that red anodized aluminum? I've been using their "natural" anodized aluminum panels with black infilled lettering. However, I've been thinking about trying something different, like red or blue. The ~beige~ looks pretty nice as well.

I like the border you added. Looks classy.

Well done! thumbs up


Thanks! Yep, red anodized, no infill. The border was inspired by the old EMU modulars, and went from a proper copy of that (but in red) to a token echo of it when I found out how much that amount of machining would cost.

robpiya - that power system looks great. I’d love to build one myself, but the idea I could thread all those holes without goofing up is a fantasy.
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