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parts sourcing for Buchla format modules
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Author parts sourcing for Buchla format modules
sines
I'm about to pull the trigger on a large Tayda order today, followed by Mouser, then eBay for most of my Buchla modules to build: 204, 206, 207, 208, 211, 212, 218, 227, 244, 246, 248, 248-EXP, 256, 257, 258C, 259, 266, 270, 277, 280, 281, 284, 286, 291, 292C, 295, 296.

• DUAL MIXER MODEL 206
• MIXER / PREAMPLIFIER MODEL 207
• POWER SUPPLY UNIT MODEL 211
• QUAD LOPASS GATE MODEL 292C
• DUAL OSCILLATOR MODEL 258C
• SYSTEM INTERFACE MODEL 227 REV2
• MARF EXPANDER MODEL 248-EXP
• QUAD VOLTAGE CONTROLLED ENVELOPE GENERATOR MODEL 284
• QUAD ENVELOPE GENERATOR MODEL 280
• QUAD FUNCTION GENERATOR MODEL 281
• DUAL VOLTAGE CONTROLLED FILTER MODEL 291
• QUAD PREAMPLIFIER MODEL 270
• MULTIPLE ARBITRARY FUNCTION GENERATOR MODEL 248
• DODECAMODULE MODEL 212
• QUAD SPATIAL DIRECTOR MODEL 204
• CV TOOLBOX MODEL 244
• 10 CHANNEL COMB FILTER MODEL 295
• SOURCE OF UNCERTAINTY MODEL 266
• SIGNAL DELAY UNIT MODEL 277
• SEQUENTIAL VOLTAGE SOURCE MODEL 246
• DUAL EQUALIZER / REVERB MODEL 275
• DUAL VOLTAGE ADDER MODEL 256
• DUAL CONTROL VOLTAGE PROCESSOR MODEL 257

My sources are as follows:

TAYDA
common 1% & 5% resistors, most MLCC/monolithic ceramic, film + electrolytic caps, inductors, crystals, CD4001, CD4011, CD4013, CD4030, CD4051, 1n4148 [replacing 1n457s], 2n3904, 2n3806, 1n5819, PN3565, TL064, TL071, TL072, TL074, LM301, LM380, M74HC595, switches, DIP switches, DIP sockets, LEDs, 9mm + 16mm right angle pots, trimmers, single / double right angle 2.54mm headers, box headers, 3.96 pitch male Molex pins for 208, 227, 296 motherboards

Mouser
rare resistors; Tantalum, film, ceramic & electrolytic caps, zener diodes, Large 1600 Davies knobs, voltage regulators, analog quad switches, 3.96 pitch female right angle Molex sockets

Online Components
3.96 pitch female right angle Molex sockets
https://www.onlinecomponents.com/molex-waldom-09481064.html?p=42828950

Galco
Davies 1610AA fine pitch knobs 100+ $1.50 each
http://www.galco.com/buy/Davies-Molding/1610AA

Newark
Alps 50K sliders – would love to find these in the US without the $20 shipping surcharge
http://www.newark.com/alps/rs4511150k/potentiometer-slide-50k/dp/01M87 25

eBay
TiniJax
The dimensions of these jacks [42A] are the same height as the switches throughout the builds… and at $45 for 350, are way cheaper than Mouser.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/201401569314

Also bought 2n3806s, Pomona banana jacks, etc. Sourcing as many of the ICs I can from here.

Caveats, additional sources? Please add if you can!
bemerritt
That is quite the order

where did you get the 281 pcb from?
J3RK
Personally, if longevity is a goal in this project, I wouldn't go cheap on electrolytic capacitors. Buy Panasonic, Nichicon, Rubycon etc. from Mouser or Digikey. I haven't heard anything about Tayda's brands, but I know they aren't among these brands. (there are also a few other good ones I didn't list) If these leak at some point (which history has shown of shoddy electrolytics in both synths and computers) then you have more to worry about potentially than just replacing a capacitor.

Also, while they do cost more, NKK toggle switches are worth the extra money if you can budget it. This may or may not be a concern for you, but they are excellent switches, and can be purchased at Mouser.

All of those logic ICs, diodes, op amps, transistors are great from Tayda. I order TONs of them from there, and have never had a single issue.

The resistors I'd say are down to personal taste. They work fine, test within their percentages for the most part, but when you can get Yageo, Vishay, KOA, etc. for a penny each for 100-200 at Mouser, you'll have stock to spare with a name brand. That said, I've never heard complaints other than one or two about Tayda's resistors. (one was about the style of leads, the other was about temperature drift with a lighter under it, so not really a real-world concern hihi ) Since I order so much from Mouser though, I just order a few hundred of any given value at a time with my orders.

Otherwise I don't see anything that I would change about what you've got there.
pre55ure
Get the resistors and switches from mouser. Especially the switches. Tayda switches are crap. And the resistors are cheap enough in bulk to not make a real difference, but I much prefer the KOA-Speer ones from mouser. Tayda is generally good for the other stuff, in particular IC’s and transistors.
keninverse
Buy TT trimmers from mouser if you don't want to spend the cash for 25 turn bourns. Don't buy them from Tayda. You can place a finger on those cheap bourns knock-offs and watch the resistance change.

Weedywhizz would be a better alternative for the alps. www.samodular.com

I'd echo pre55ure's sentiments on resistors and switches. Get Koa or Xicon resistors. Don't go cheap on electrolytics either. Buy panasonic FMs or FCs or Nichicon PWs.
pre55ure
keninverse wrote:
Buy TT trimmers from mouser if you don't want to spend the cash for 25 turn bourns. Don't buy them from Tayda. You can place a finger on those cheap bourns knock-offs and watch the resistance change.


Thats interesting, I'll have to do some more random sampling of trimmers. w00t
In my experience I have found the Tayda Bourns knockoffs to be just as good as the actual Bourns trimmers.

I use the tayda trimmers in my personal modules and prototypes, and the real Bourns in the stuff I sell, and haven't noticed any appreciable difference. I do occasionally get a wonky one. But it feels like the percentage of bad ones is about the same between the knockoffs and real Bourns.
Of course people are also shit at being able to accurately sense percentages... so I could easily be wrong.
imcmahon
damn that's a good deal on the tinyjax... I need some erthenvar jacks and I'm tempted to get the tinyjax they're such a good price, but it's probably silly to put them in a euro project knowing that they're not going to marry with the cables exactly right, also the bushing thread looks oddball and they don't come with hardware
keninverse
pre55ure wrote:

Thats interesting, I'll have to do some more random sampling of trimmers. w00t
In my experience I have found the Tayda Bourns knockoffs to be just as good as the actual Bourns trimmers.


I purchased a load of them from Tayda 4-5yrs ago so it's entirely possible they've got the kinks worked out. Then I stumbled on this thread when I was having stability problems in a VCO.
https://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/bonens-(bochen-also-works-here)-cou nterfit-bourns-trimpot-analysis
sines
imcmahon wrote:
damn that's a good deal on the tinyjax... I need some erthenvar jacks and I'm tempted to get the tinyjax they're such a good price, but it's probably silly to put them in a euro project knowing that they're not going to marry with the cables exactly right, also the bushing thread looks oddball and they don't come with hardware


the Tini Jax are "fine" with 3.5mm / Euro cabling, just not the other way around. With 1000 1/4-32 nuts at $22.99 it's a still a steal.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1-4-32-BRASS-PANEL-NUT-NICKEL-PLATED-3-8-AF-X -1-8-THK-1-000-NUTS/322354698645
imcmahon
ok you talked me into it. Mostly because I don't want to pay another $33 shipping from thonk, since I just received a box full of pots and jacks from them yesterday cry
Peake
There are a few odd components in your list (fantastic system BTW).

The 284 may use Motorola 2N3958 dual FETs, different pinout than others used in other builds which recommend 2N3958s from linear systems (LS3958). You can get them at UTsource.net. The 291 and 212 which use 2N3958 all use linear systems parts/pinouts. Same with the 25s and 259.

Same with the 258. 2N3565 and 2N4248 are fairly generic and can be replaced with 2N3904 and 2N3906, unknown if any change in tone occurs. The original used 2N3802 duals which can be sourced from UTsource as well. You may find 2N4340 or 2N4341 in your BOMs, they can also be found at UTsource. The sine shaper FET in the 258 (2 per module of course) should be selected to have an Idss of 0.8 to 1.1. The J201 can be substituted and inexpensive J201 with high Idss are currently available at Small Bear for less than a dollar each.

If you can find original vactrols get them; Xvive may have issues with quality control and the two "clones" of single vactrols (5C1 and 5C3) do not fall in the same range as the vintage 5C3. In the VCAs this is important because you won't get the slight ringing you should expect. This is also true with the dual vactrols. Get originals if you can.

There are build pages here on MW which will answer many questions and are great places to request specific fixes and parts. Know that the 212 requires a few mods which are detailed on Dave Brown's page. His pages are imperative for these builds. The 212 also requires a selected 2N3958 so when you order from linear systems get 10 or more from which to select. Also the 212 requires a CA3080 which can be found at UTsource. An Electric Druid noise IC is also required from the manufacturer or perhaps you can get a single chip from a person in the states through MW's for sale/wanted forum. You'll also need one for the 266 if it's the most recent version. The 2N3566 will also show up in a couple places in these builds; UTsource etc. It's a high-output 2N3565. It's in the 212 filter and 291. The 291 also requires an additional two 2N3958 which are selected for Idss so get more than 10.

http://modularsynthesis.com/roman/buchla212/212dd.htm

Most of Roman's BOMs do not list panel-mounting hardware. M3 screws are recommended, say M3 6mm Philips pan-head types for the rear and M3 6mm Philips flat-head counter-sunk types for the front panels. There are a few places these can be purchased in bulk, someone will chime in...also standoffs. Usually M3 hex type brass or nickel. 15mm is typical to a lot of these, but 17mm can appear between the front panel and first PCB if there are multiple PCBs. When there are multiple PCBs with male/female double-row connectors 11mm standoffs or 10mm are a good bet. Stuff your transistors low....and remember the different types. M/F and F/F. Front to back, you can use: M3 flat-head on the panel, Xmm F/F between the panel and PCB, M3 6mm pan-head screws on the rear. If more PCBs, add 11 or 10mm M/F as needed.
APETECHNOLOGY
Peake wrote:
There are a few odd components in your list (fantastic system BTW).

The 284 may use Motorola 2N3958 dual FETs, different pinout than others used in other builds which recommend 2N3958s from linear systems (LS3958)..


i used the ls3958 in the 284 i built they worked great! correct pinout.
also,you can purchase these directly from linear systems. to-71 package is all they had a week ago.
Peake
That's a relief to have confirmed, thanks. I ran into some trouble there while debugging one with two non-functioning sections.
roglok
keninverse wrote:
pre55ure wrote:

Thats interesting, I'll have to do some more random sampling of trimmers. w00t
In my experience I have found the Tayda Bourns knockoffs to be just as good as the actual Bourns trimmers.


I purchased a load of them from Tayda 4-5yrs ago so it's entirely possible they've got the kinks worked out. Then I stumbled on this thread when I was having stability problems in a VCO.
https://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/bonens-(bochen-also-works-here)-cou nterfit-bourns-trimpot-analysis


also see here:
https://www.muffwiggler.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=120961
sines
Mike, et al!

thanks for all the tips! Didn’t know about UTSource. I’ve now moved a great deal of my order (2n4340, 2n4341, THAT ICs, etc. Doesn’t seem that they carry many switches, or Alps sliders; surprised no one has found or made these cheaper yet.

After reading this — and being a little spooked out...
https://www.muffwiggler.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=117905

What are your experiences with the ua726 [HC?] from UTSource? Bo Cheng Wei carries Korean branded ua726HC’s for $6.17 each. What else would you watch out for from them?
Peake
Apparently BEMI and Buchla DIY folks forced uA726 prices from around $10 each up to and steady at $100 each. It is always possible there is a Chinese supplier who still has some but fake parts have turned up and it isn't always either easy or sometimes even possible to get a refund if they're fakes. I've heard Roman includes a uA726 substitute with his 258V3; if not or if you have an earlier set of PCBs you can use one of the well-documented replacements from jhulk or papz. Note that I'm a purist regarding vintage parts etc. and I'm saying this.

Definitely check the individual build pages here on MW for info on any odd parts pinouts or selected components (258, 291, 212 being the most obvious requiring a couple of selected parts).
sines
Noted. I ask because the supplier of the other rare gold can transistors is selling pretty much everything I need, which made me think they could be legit, or they’re cornering the DIY Buchla market to scam.
Peake
Fantastic price on the 200BA, are you building a 208? Lots of little issues with that build, absolutely check the Dave Brown page and MW build page for insight. Needs a few selected or matched components. I believe you mentioned a 2N3806, used in that build.

Buy one or two uA726 and test them for Hfe to at least confirm correct pinout for the two internal transistors, connect the power and heater with the 82K and see if it works. It is entirely possible to hit a gold mine. There are high-quality 10-pin circular transistor sockets you can install in a 258 to test 726s.

Incredible price on the can-type 4339. They're the ones you'll need in oscillators (285, 258, 259, 208, 25s) selected for Idss. I've seen some plastic TO-92 type PN4339 which didn't have the expected Idss range so bad parts ARE out there. If you get these check them for an average Idss of 1.0 and save those in a baggie. Instructions for testing for Idss are found on the 258 build page. Also always mark the pinout (DSG, DGS etc.) you find for each rare transistor type as they vary between manufacturers and you'll have to get at least the G pin correct in these circuits for it to work. Very handy to have it written down.
Huba-Swift
J3RK wrote:
Personally, if longevity is a goal in this project, I wouldn't go cheap on electrolytic capacitors. Buy Panasonic, Nichicon, Rubycon etc. from Mouser or Digikey. I haven't heard anything about Tayda's brands, but I know they aren't among these brands.
Tayda recently started stocking Nichicon and Panasonic electrolytics, as well as WIMA capacitors and Royal Ohm resistors.
cygmu
Peake wrote:

Incredible price on the can-type 4339. They're the ones you'll need in oscillators (285, 258, 259, 208, 25s) selected for Idss. I've seen some plastic TO-92 type PN4339 which didn't have the expected Idss range so bad parts ARE out there.


FWIW I bought 20 2N4339 in can package from a seller that Don T had used and only found one with Idss in range or really anywhere close, so perhaps the tolerance / range on these things is just wide in the first place.
Peake
Yes, but the range of swing should still be within stated, predicted boundaries. 1.0 should be the average for a 2N4339. Datasheets list the expected minimum and maximum range. I believe the stated selected range for the Buchla oscillator sine shapers is 0.8 to 1.2. I recently built a 285 using J201 the customer found on ebay as they're becoming rare, and they were fake parts. Dave Brown figured that one out after I'd done much poking around elsewhere in the module on his direction, hadn't even considered a batch of out-of-range components (NOT my customer's fault, entirely the seller's fault). With some of these parts becoming ever more rare and fakes cropping up in their place, it's good practice to immediately test them upon receipt for the expected range of behaviour so you can begin a refund or exchange immediately instead of finding out the hard way weeks later, etc. The large bag of plastic PN4339 I got from a respected supplier averaged well below the expected range. Even respected vendors have multiple suppliers and junk can thus enter the supply chain. My 2mV for what it's worth.
cygmu
Interesting -- so it was the Idss measurements that led you and Dave to conclude they were fakes?

I dug out my bag of 2N4339s and the scrap of paper with the measurements scrawled on it shows they were all around 0.6 which is in range (0.5 - 1.5mA) but not what you want for these builds.

I'm still interested to know how this specification impacts the performance and whether it can be compensated for by changing other values -- the Feedback Two59 VCO build manual talks about adjusting both resistor values and the FETs to get a good sine. It would be better if a measurement and calculation could do this... wish I knew how!
https://www.muffwiggler.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=169991
sines
Pulled the trigger on a $200 parts order from UTSOURCE, hopefully all is well and there are no fakes smile

Sourcing VU meters for the 227 System Interface ... this is the closest I found:


https://www.ebay.com/itm/Modutec-panel-mount-VU-meter-3-E-5/1922325587 78

They are pretty pricey at $43/each. Can any panel meter be calibrated for use [such as an amperage meter] for use in this purpose?

And joysticks for the 204 Quad Spatial Director. The eBay part roman_f listed in the BOM has disappeared. Wondering if these would be a suitable replacement?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/360-2-axis-Sealing-10K-Joystick-Potentiometer -Wont-Reset-for-Lighting-Console/252531595122

Looking forward to hearing from anyone who has tackled either of these builds, psst, dave_br

Thanks!

Todd
sines
Also, got a bunch of these from Mouser when they were $.98 each.
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Bourns/PTA4543-2015CPB503

Sadly they are now $1.47-$.80 each, but still, much cheaper than Alps with a great build quality and slide resistance. Since I'm building and keeping everything I'm making, I'm not worried about it matching the builds done with Alps sliders.

It took adding some resistor legs to make them fit the Alps footprint, but then they stand up to the correct height when mounted.

10-channel comb filter with Bourns sliders video

on instagram
sempervirent
You might have noticed that those vertical-mount Tinijax from eBay don't include the washers or nuts... so although they're still cheaper than Mouser, you'll have to factor in the cost of the missing parts as well. And the height of the jacks might be an issue on certain builds, depending on the height of the standoffs that you use. Small detail.

Also the uA726 that I got from UTSource were definitely fake. There are alternatives, such as http://www.portabellabz.be/pa726.html
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