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Converting Halliburton case for Euro modular
MUFF WIGGLER Forum Index -> Music Tech DIY Goto page 1, 2  Next [all]
Author Converting Halliburton case for Euro modular
Cybananna
Hello, I finally got a Halliburton case for my modules. The inside dimensions are 20.25 inches wide x 16.25 tall. Depth is “plenty”. I’ve done some research on people converting these for modular use but I would like some specific pictures or experiences on how you have mounted your rails in the case. I don’t want to mess it up.



Cybananna
Also, planning on getting synthrotek rails. I think the 104 hp rails should go all the way across with a little trim.
captnapalm
I did one for a friend a while back. I used countersunk 4mm screws from the outside along both sides of the case, drilling through the case and the trim that runs along the edge to give it extra strength. I used weld nuts to mount the rails so a) there could be a bit of flex available to the case and b) there would be room for modules to mount on the edges.

Cybananna
Ok, see. You made the rails into a frame. So the rails mounted to strips of metal then those strips of metal attached to the case. Thanks
captnapalm
Cybananna wrote:
Ok, see. You made the rails into a frame. So the rails mounted to strips of metal then those strips of metal attached to the case. Thanks


Yep it's just the Erthenvar 9u kit. The cases aren't perfectly rectangular (there's a curve to them) so it's easier to make a rectangular frame within the case.
Cybananna
Oh that kit is perfect! Thanks for the link. Looks like that is what I will get. we're not worthy
flts
If it's of any help, here's my set of about a dozen Highly Artesanal And Bespoke Halliburton conversions I made for both personal use and sale 1-2 years ago: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/1ebg1mlkfduwnry/AAAs_ya5N49fnh7ieoeVQ_oka?d l=0

Yep, highly recommend building a frame inside the case, because that will make things both much easier to align and much tidier. Plus you can dismount the frame from the case very easily if you need to do any adjustments.

Depending on exact measurements of the case vs. frame, you may or may not want to add additional strips of either aluminum or some fancy wood (used teak strip in 2-3 of the cases I made) to make everything fit nicely width- and depth-wise.

I did the power & distribution mounting the rough way and just drilled holes for my "own" design busboards and the power supplies through the bottom of the case. Which means there are screw / nut heads on one side of the case - but also installed some rubber feet there for stability so it doesn't matter as much.

If you want to make it, erm, less industrial, have no mounting hardware protruding out of the bottom, and still use a case mounted power system (instead of those iffy 4hp power modules), someone (I think Monobass aka mr Thonk?) has posted a pic in one of the previous conversion threads about how he made sort of mounting bracket system in the bottom. AFAIR it attaches to the side of the case, and allows you to bolt things to the bottom side without having to drill through. I suppose using thin aluminum sheet strips from hardware store, and just bending them to U shape manually would achieve the same effect.
Jarno
I see you have a few Rimowa cases there as well, hadn't thought of that. Used to lug one of those around when they were still cool (as an attache), long time ago smile I think mine is still in the attic....
flts
Jarno wrote:
I see you have a few Rimowa cases there as well, hadn't thought of that. Used to lug one of those around when they were still cool (as an attache), long time ago smile I think mine is still in the attic....


Yeah, I got two of them pretty cheap in less than pristine condition so figured out I might try "rebuilding" them a bit and making cases out of them as well. Subjectively, they're lighter weight and easier to make tidy cases out of than the Zeros, but feel really flexy / flimsy in comparison (they dent really easily), and don't look quite as cool to my eye.
Jarno
Those Rimowa's do still have the "shady marketing/sales rep" look still, will take a while for them to be really cool smile
Bamboombaps
that glue on the inside is a nightmare to remove. i used acetone
flts
Yeah... I think newer Zeros had somewhat easier to remove glue, older ones had the nasty one - that looks like the stuff the older ones had.

I tried everything and think that xylene worked the best out of several different solvents including acetone and lighter fluid that a camera repairman friend of mine recommended... even that needed a bit of patience and mechanical work with the ones that had most of it.

One particular case had lots and lots of that glue. Ended up spending a LOT of time with it, eventually giving up, and just painting the inside after I'd removed most of the glue.
mutronic
Look for "goof off" in your preferred hardware store. That stuff will remove anything.

What's the hp on the rails for a case that size?
captnapalm
mutronic wrote:
Look for "goof off" in your preferred hardware store. That stuff will remove anything.

What's the hp on the rails for a case that size?


IIRC it was 100hp on the one I built.
flts
1 hp is 1/5 inches, so if the case is 20.25 inches wide, around 100 hp max. with the frame ends and taking all the tolerances into account, i suppose a bit less.

16.25 inches tall means a bit over 9u of possible height... then again, whether one can actually fit 9u depends on how one handles the lid stopper hinges (+ their nuts) and rounded corners (might have to compromise a bit on either maximum width or maximum height because the corners get in the way).

it's usually a bit of a tetris depending on those things.
shellfritsch


john at pulplogic helped me put this frame together. it's all shock-mounted.
Cybananna
Great photos and info everyone. I will post pictures as I get into it. I’m planning on getting 9U at around 90-95 hp in the top and bottom both. It has plenty of depth for modules on both sides and clearance to close it.
flts
Yeah, 90-95HP @ 9U sounds right, mounted in a similar way as in shellfritsch's picture you can probably even keep the lid stopper hinges in place if you want to.

(One really nice thing about the bigger / vintage Zeros - all of them close patched, unless you have a habit of stacking 3-4+ stackcables or bananas on top of each other)

Good luck, eagerly awaiting what you'll come up with Guinness ftw!
squarewavesurfer
shellfritsch wrote:


john at pulplogic helped me put this frame together. it's all shock-mounted.


Is the shock mounting done by rubber sleeves on the bolts between the case and the rail brackets?
Cybananna
Thanks again for all the info. I will definitely update with pictures. I will be doing the bottom first. The brackets that are already there may hemp with mounting. I have an idea. It’s too expensive for me to do top and bottom at the same time. I have all the modules mounted in a case that’s not so good for transporting for live stuff so when I get the first part of the case done, I will transfer over modules to fill the case.
shellfritsch
squarewavesurfer wrote:


Is the shock mounting done by rubber sleeves on the bolts between the case and the rail brackets?


They are these rubber cylinders with male and female threads on each end. The threading doesn’t go all the way through, so the center is completely rubber. Here are two of them screwed together:


Pretty cool little things - I hadn’t seen before!
Cybananna
Ok, first update. I found some 3/4x3/4 angled aluminum at Lowe’s. I cut them to length and rounded the corners to match the case. These will mount the rails to the case. I have another piece to go along the bottom just to look nice. It will have 9u of 93hp I think. The pre-existing mounts were conviently located so that the knobs are a little below the lip of the case and the lid will close without the hinges interfering. Pure luck. Just have to drill holes and assemble.








Cybananna
Got the frame assembled. The only problem was that it wouldn’t fit in once assembled as close to the outside edge as I wanted. I had to cut a little off the rails to get it to go in so there’s a gap around the outside and the contour of the angled aluminum doesn’t match the case as close as it did. Oh well. Not bad for first time. And with a hacksaw, hand drill, and a dremel. A band saw and a drill press would have been nice....



Reese P. Dubin
Looks like you are doing great so far.
I would suggest before you go any further, take the time to bang the center pin/axle out of the hinge and make the top removable.
I can "guarantee" that at some point you are not going to want the top in your way. Make a new pin out a wire hanger, bend the last inch at 90 degrees making a stopper as well as a handle to pull it out.

That case looks deep enough to build the same setup in the lid. Having the halves separate would also allow for a side by side configuration. I recently setup a new Zero case so it can be top/bottom and side by side, and i find i get new ideas based on module proximity being different.

My advice is make it as flexible as possible from the start, becasue its a pain to change once its in action.
Cybananna
Oh! That’s a great idea. I will see if I can do that. It is deep enough. The top and bottom are the same depth.
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