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Dual MFOS VCO Eurorack Panel Design
MUFF WIGGLER Forum Index -> Music Tech DIY  
Author Dual MFOS VCO Eurorack Panel Design
Sciamano
So, I have these 2 MFOS VCO Boards already populated and properly calibrated. I' m trying to fit these two modules into my eurorack modular.
MFOS modules are not really eurorack friendly, in fact the boards are just too big, moreover the two PCBs are 140 mm wide, so it's impossible to make them fit vertically!
I thought it would be convenient to stack the two boards on top of each other, with long enough spacers, and attach them to the panel horizontally.
So I ended up designing this panel that should contain all the controls needed for both VCOs. It is 28HP wide, so It's not overly HP consuming for two VCOs.
Can anyone who has experience with the design of panels tell me if it's all in place correclty ?
- Are the holes for the mini jacks sufficently large (7 mm) ?
- Are the holes for the alpha taiwan pots sufficently large (M7) ?
- Will all the elements really fit into the panel ?

If all is correct, I will just add two more holes for attaching the top PCB with the panel through two spacers.

Here is the FPD file....

DUAL MFOS VCO PANEL (FPD)

and a preview:

tojpeters
You need to put a pic up
Not a lot of people are going to open a file from someone they don’t know
Sciamano
tojpeters
I've added the image as you suggested!

still I'd like someone to verify the panel with front panel express and I don't know any other method to share the FPD file
duff
Which mini jacks are you using?

I think I normall go 6.5mm for thonkicon jacks and 8mm for alpha pots as the pot thread is 7mm.

As for will it fit, I have learnt from repeated failures (or well I haven't but I should) that mocking it up in cardboard or mdf is a must. Not just for the pot jack positions, but also for how the PCB mounts.
Sciamano
duff
I don't know what jacks they are...I bought them in a local hardware store, they don't have any code or something like that...



The pots are these:
http://www.alphapotentiometers.net/html/16mm_pot_6.html

Here it says M7, and so I did... but I'll try with 8 mm if you think it's better (I'm way less expert than you...this is my first panel).

Anyway thanks for the tip, I'll print this and check the size, by sticking the printed panel over a cardboard... I can't go for a mdf prototype since I don't have the tools for that kind of work.[/img]
julian
Its not at all normal for a front panel to be threaded. In fact, im not sure ive ever seen one...

The best way is to physically measure your component, and then add, say, 0.3mm to your measurement for clearance. Dont just trust a data sheet either...

Parts are almost always held on to the panel with nuts. Of course, pcb mounted parts also support the pcb (and wouldnt be able to be screwed into the panel, as would not turn independently)

Theres my helpful advice. Now some spam / more helpful advice.... Get someone who is cheaper than fpd to make your parts for you (of course, i could suggest someone.... ; )
Sciamano
julian
Thanks a lot; now I see my mistake, I've misunderstood the meaning of thread (I'm not an english native speaker and I miss some technical vocabulary).
I will replace the M7 holes from the project (Now that I know, it's hilarious) and substitute them with 8 mm holes as duff suggested.

As for the spam...I may be interested, send me a PM with more info or just feel free to post here
southphillysynths
This looks great! Yes the panels are usually smooth holes, just speck them out for 3.5 mm jacks, you have to solder flying wire anyway right?

Look forward to some tweaks so I can order a panel! w00t
Sciamano
southphillysynths
Yes flying wires are taken for granted...
Anyway, in a few days I'll print a paper prototype to check the last version of the panel with the screws for the spacers, and adjusted holes for pots and jacks, and finally post a final version.
Up to now, the panel costs about 50$, I have to investigate how to convert FPD to HPGL to save some money...
Altitude909
Sciamano wrote:
duff
I don't know what jacks they are...I bought them in a local hardware store, they don't have any code or something like that...



The pots are these:
http://www.alphapotentiometers.net/html/16mm_pot_6.html

Here it says M7, and so I did... but I'll try with 8 mm if you think it's better (I'm way less expert than you...this is my first panel).

Anyway thanks for the tip, I'll print this and check the size, by sticking the printed panel over a cardboard... I can't go for a mdf prototype since I don't have the tools for that kind of work.[/img]


Make sure that when you plug a jack into those, it's not sticking out the bottom. There are some out there that are tall enough but there are also ones that are not. If it sticks out, dont use them or make sure that they are raised off the panel (or there is a hole in the socket footprint)
Randy
Not exactly super-helpful but I wouldn't bother including "AMT" in those labels. I don't think I have any modules that use that, it's assumed I think.

Randy
julian
It wouldnt be easy to do on the layout pictured, but somtimes its nicer to have some line work between the socket, and the attenuating pot, eg -



On that one, even thought the CV pot is not level with the knob (as determined by the pcb), the line work still makes it obvious what is going on.
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