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DIY Clap'a'Trap ** Assembly Results & Trigger Update ***
MUFF WIGGLER Forum Index -> Music Tech DIY Goto page Previous  1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6  Next [all]
Author DIY Clap'a'Trap ** Assembly Results & Trigger Update ***
tron23
pcb, panel combo here too please. Guinness ftw!
syntherjack
Great job! Did you have any 566 tuning problems when using original schematics? Did you have to change R62/R80 resistors values or timing capacitor? Af far as i remember, I had some issues with that confused Cheers!
Boogie
syntherjack
Quote:
Did you have any 566 tuning problems when using original schematics

I guess I'll find out when my PCBs arrive.
I didn' breadboard this one.
Thank you for letting me know. thumbs up
I'll provide this feedback once I'm debugging.
Dunk_91
Also one set for me, eventually smile
realitycontrol
Looks great, I'd be up for an unpopulated PCB, potentially with a panel.

If there was potential for a version with CV over a good handful of the parameters then I'd be all over that.
Boogie
Proto PCBs have arrived.

toneburst
Looking good smile
tron23
w00t
Boogie
Julian's front panel arrived as well.
Here are some mock-up pictures.


The push buttons might have been a bit higher,
but they are still well reachable with about 1 mm outside front panel.
toneburst
Looks great.

Keep up the great work, Boogie!!

a|x
makhho
909/erica synth style program buttons or even your MP7/MiniP7 style buttons + a tad bit higher out of the module?

very good work boogie!
Boogie
makhho
Quote:
or even your MP7/MiniP7 style buttons

they are the same buttons, but now the PCB is at 12mm instead of 8mm behind the FrontPanel.

Quote:
a tad bit higher out of the module

Honestly, that's also my idea.
I will look for a not too expensive sollution.
Swyndger
Yes, I would be in, for a PCB and Panel!
And as it was mentioned before: Any plans on making a XL-version with CV control for some of the parameter?
Boogie
Swyndger

Quote:
Yes, I would be in, for a PCB and Panel!
I'll add you to the list
Quote:
Any plans on making a XL-version with CV control for some of the parameter?
not yet, at least for the time being.
toneburst
How long are the legs of those switched?

Would it be possible to raise them slightly from the PCB before soldering, so they poked through the panel a bit more?

I’d be a bit worried that, if you didn’t do that, you might be able to push the buttons down far enough for them to catch on the underside of the panel.
Boogie
Hello all,

sorry to keep you waiting for about 2 weeks.

One of the reasons why it took me so long is:
the original schematics (as found on the internet) are not representing the ClapTrap as demoed here:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k2NoL_a4Ulg

So back to the drawing board and start designing and simulating, keeping in mind the public schematics and some PCB pictures of the original.

The result in waveform is at the end of this post.
(Video to follow later)

@syntherjack
Quote:

Quote:
Did you have any 566 tuning problems when using original schematics


I guess I'll find out when my PCBs arrive.
I didn' breadboard this one.

Well Jack,
I had to change a lot more to get pretty close to the original.
Yes the RC have changed as well as some other stuff on timings, humanizer, etc...I also didn't use a 3080 but used an LM13700, this also needed some small modifs.

@toneburst
Quote:
Would it be possible to raise them slightly from the PCB before soldering, so they poked through the panel a bit more?

That's exactly what I did on the proto.
It's looking better and feeling better.


Quote:
I’d be a bit worried that, if you didn’t do that, you might be able to push the buttons down far enough for them to catch on the underside of the panel.

That's OK, they will not get stuck under the FP, travel is only about 0.5 mm.
I may considder to do a small PCB for the switches as I did for the MP7 (same reason).


toneburst
@Boogie
Damn.. that must have been frustrating... So were the schematics you found for a different version, or something?

You could make some spacers for the switches out of PCB material, with holes for the stitch legs to pass through to the main board underneath, rather than making a completely separate board for the switches. Maybe that's what you did already.

Keep up the great work, anyway. Really looking forward to seeing this project materialise.
Boogie
toneburst
Quote:
So were the schematics you found for a different version, or something?

I found two youtube movies with a demo. The one I mentioned above has the cleanest configurations to distinguish between the 'hiss' and 'ensemble'.

Anyhow, the schematics on the internet contain all main components, it's just that some (read multiple) connections are different, multiple values of caps and resistors are different, etc...
But..I succeeded to make it pretty close.

Quote:
You could make some spacers for the switches out of PCB material
That's exactly what I did. I placed a small piece of PCB underneath the switches, soldered them and pulled back the small piece of PCB.
Quote:
Really looking forward to seeing this project materialise.

Next step is updating the schematics, modifying the PCB and ordering a couple for a new prototype.
Unfortunately for throughput, summer holidays are very nearby.
toneburst
Boogie wrote:
That's exactly what I did. I placed a small piece of PCB underneath the switches, soldered them and pulled back the small piece of PCB.


I was thinking more that you could make a little 'shim' with holes for the button legs to go through, and it could be left in place. This might be stronger then leaving a gap underneath the components.
Boogie
toneburst
Quote:
I was thinking more that you could make a little 'shim' with holes for the button legs to go through, and it could be left in place.

Some double sided pcb with through hole metalisation should do the job.
toneburst
It could be a 'break-off' addition to the main PCB.
syntherjack
Boogie wrote:

@syntherjack
Quote:

Quote:
Did you have any 566 tuning problems when using original schematics


I guess I'll find out when my PCBs arrive.
I didn' breadboard this one.

Well Jack,
I had to change a lot more to get pretty close to the original.
Yes the RC have changed as well as some other stuff on timings, humanizer, etc...I also didn't use a 3080 but used an LM13700, this also needed some small modifs.


I'm glad you had similar problems smile
The waveforms you got there are really nice! In case you want to make further comparisons, this is the record of the original analog ClapTrap I got from friend (ensemble only).
Cheers!
Jack
Boogie
hello syntherjack
Quote:
this is the record of the original analog ClapTrap I got from friend (ensemble only)

thanks for the sample.
Turns out it does contain noise, see screendump(s) below.
Some further analysis shows the highest tuned ensemble frequency is a lot lower then the one in the youtube movie. So is the lowest ensemble frequency.

I'll enlarge the tuning range of the Clap'a'Trap to cover for both.

Would it be possible to let me know if it was a MK I or MK II ? (see picture below)




toneburst
Is the Mk.2 digital? I have a feeling I read somewhere that the Mk.1 was all-analogue, whereas the Mk.2 was digital.

Not sure if that's relevant...

I don't think you necessarily have to stick slavishly to the ranges of the original controls.

If it sounds good to extend the range of some controls, then I'd say "go for it".

Keep up the great work!
Boogie
toneburst
Both of the units on the picture above are analog.
A picture of the digital version below.
Quote:
If it sounds good to extend the range of some controls, then I'd say "go for it".
Yes indead, I'm aiming for good sound and then release it.

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