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Hello/DIY Eurorack case & power
MUFF WIGGLER Forum Index -> Eurorack Modules  
Author Hello/DIY Eurorack case & power
jamos
Jut thought I'd introduce myself and share my efforts so far. My name is Jim Johnson, I've been fascinated by synthesizers since I was a kid; I built my first PAiA modular back in 1975. Have played a variety of synths since then, my analog modular interest cooled when I was working with a Fenix/Serge system in the early 2000's (the serge was a maintenance nightmare), so I've been playing a pair of Nord Modular G2's since then. Wonderful modulars of course, but lacking in immediacy, and hard to use as a modular live (due to all the paging). So I've decided to put together a small Eurorack system and see what I can get out of it.

For obvious reasons I started with a case and power supply. I hate noise (unwanted noise that is) and love playing live, so I decided to build a portable case with the best power system I could find. The result is below.



The case is an SKB-R100 10u mixer case, $200 off Ebay. I chose this because it's the right size and has a really deep cover, so I will be able to leave things patched for transport. To that I added a Condor HCBB105 linear power supply, also from Ebay, which is really overkill (3.4 A for the 12 v supplies, 3 A for 5V); however, it was only $75 new in box, so I just grabbed it. I did not at the time realize how few Euro modules use +5V; in hindsight I probably would have gotten two smaller supplies. Also a couple of Genus Modu LIBBs.

The power supply is mounted on a 4U rack panel, and the LIBBs are on a separate piece of sheet steel; these are both screwed to the bottom of the SKB case. I used 12 ga stranded wire throughout; if I were doing it again I would go with 14 [/img]ga solid wire, just because it seems to be impossible to avoid frayed wires at the connections.




I know that many people are intimidated by these supplies, because the documentation is somewhat complex and AC is dangerous; but my feeling is that if you are reasonably good with your hands and can follow instructions, this is a good way to go. Be sure to work slowly, triple-check everything; insulate all the AC connections with shrink-wrap, and test fit every part at each step (doing so would have kept me from needing to redrill 10 misplaced holes!)

I do have one question for those who have done this before. I used threadlok on every nut and screw, except the electrical connections; apparently that stuff will penetrate everywhere and will form an insulating layer. What other methods are there to ensure that the screws on the terminal strips will not loosen over time?
nimmen
Looks solid. But that will be "HEAVY" case, I've used somewhat similar HBB15-1.5-AG for multiple static/not really portable 6u "rows". I'm not sure if its good idea to mount busboards on steel sheets, unless you are sure no short circuits or similar issues will happen. Can agree with your suggestion
Quote:
Be sure to work slowly, triple-check everything; insulate all the AC connections with shrink-wrap, and test fit every part at each step (doing so would have kept me from needing to redrill 10 misplaced holes!)

I think I used voltmeter dozen times to make sure everything is, as should be. I had to cut/solder some connections on transformer to convert it from 110 to 230 input. So better have good idea what you are doing and follow the manual slowly and carefully, and measure everything! Did really try to solder everything instead of using screws(where possible and makes sense) 80W soldering station was ok, don't think could do anything with 40W one there.
Did go with switching supplies for several portable racks, main reason - weight!
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