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Blacet modifications
MUFF WIGGLER Forum Index -> Fractional Rack Modules Goto page Previous  1, 2, 3, 4  Next [all]
Author Blacet modifications
panda30y
Is it easy to modify the blacet modules for banana jacks?
sandyb
panda30y wrote:
Is it easy to modify the blacet modules for banana jacks?


afaik it's not too bad. get hold of bananaplug - pretty sure he's done a few
panda30y
Yeah, I had the same thought too... I should just PM him I suppose.
fluxmonkey
D/A A/D wrote:
Anyone know how to mod the DSC to hold open?


i just replaced the pushbutton on mine with a toggle switch: spdt, center off, one side momentary.

bbob
Randaleem
fluxmonkey wrote:
i just replaced the pushbutton on mine with a toggle switch: spdt, center off, one side momentary. bbob

My favorite Switch! IMO Many locations benefit having momentary downwards, locking upward. All EG's for example. I much prefer it to a red PB.

Kind regards, Randal
Reese P. Dubin
SUPER EASY to mod to bananas. I even did the Hex Zone which mounts the jacks on individul boards...again really easy.

BananaPlug charted the path for all of us, he made it simple for the followers.
Gloworm
edit
antennafarm
i have a rev 0 dark star chaos... where's the output mod? the page on hotrodmotm mentions it with a link to blacet's site buuuuuut that info is no longer on the tech page!

[edit!]

i contacted john blacet and he says:

Quote:
The rev B board has an amplifier to boost the output level. This is just a
basic op amp circuit.
stevenclements
I just bought a Blacet DF2420 Dual Manual Filter Bare PCB and pot kit...

will be interested to hear this in action nanners

Steve
BananaPlug
Here's my bananaified DF2420. You can see the two toggles I've added to replace the normals.
It's peanut butter jelly time!
stevenclements
Very nice bananaified DF2420! applause

I was thinking of a synth.com or a motm panel as the whole kit is no longer available for this puppy, and I've got nothing but room in those racks.
sdc
parasitk
BananaPlug wrote:
You know, I'll have to look at it and get back to you tomorrow. It's similar to something I did on another module and I don't want to get my stories mixed up.

EDIT: Sorry for the delay. Here's a picture of what I did. Very simple.


Thread necromancy!

Noob question: Will this pullup resistor concept work for most switching jack situations, or is the Gate(RST) jack unique?

I think I'm going to start converting my Frac to banana, but honestly I'm a tad overwhelmed at what to do w/o fucking things up.
Cat-A-Tonic
Here is a link to DGTom's Klangwerk modification thread.
https://www.muffwiggler.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=12427&highlight=klan gwerk+mod
It really belongs with these other links in this thread so that others may find it more easily.

In other news,
I've repanelled a few Blacet modules to make space in the rig and increase density.
The Mixer Processor, Mini-Wave, and I/O are now in home-made 1FU panels.
The I/O has the 1/4" jack and breakout switches for impedance and +5v options (replacing the DIP switches on the board) mounted in a Frac ear.

Here is a pic of the Mix/Proc:

I am still undecided as to whether I should paint it,
stamp it with letter punches, and infill with lacquer sticks,
or just leave it as is with the dymo labels...
werock
I was thinking of modifying my seq switch to have an external reset - it would seem a useful thing to have.

My seq switch has already been modified so the dip switch that selects between 3/4 steps has been brought out to the front panel with LEDS for each step, plus an unused extra socket on the front panel. I could just wire up the extra socket as a clock thru, but I like the idea of an external reset.

Has anyone done something like this? I guess it just needs a couple of transistors & resistors to buffer the input.
Mark Space-Ratio
I want to raise the o/p level of my early DSC but there are no references as to how to do this anymore.
Any pointers?
cheers
¬¬¬
DGTom
super-simple "mod" for the OG Frequency Divider;

All the divided outs are buffered by a 4050 Hex Buffer, swap it for a 4049, the inverting version & you get divisions you can build drum parts with thumbs up

I also modded mine to have 4 fixed outs & 1 selected by the rotary switch, it required cutting a trace to get an extra buffer - or free the one from the multed one on the panel - but its a pretty cool beat-box now grin

My next experiment will be with the Reset In, at the moment it 'holds' the counter with for as long as the gate lasts... trying to sync multiple dividers this can be a pain.
Adam-V
Great info!

Try ken's gate to trigger trick. A cap, diode and resistor might just sort your reset issue out.

Cheers,
Adam-V
BananaPlug
The Time Machine has clever filtering to reduce the BBD clock noise and deal with increasing aliasing from lower sample rates as delays get longer. The clever part is using switched capacitor filter chips. One on each end of the BBD. These filters take a clock input which determines the cutoff frequency. The BBD clock is a lot faster than what the filters use so there's a chip dividing it by 20. It's a slick way to get everything to track as delay time is adjusted.

after playing with the TM for a while I could see the appeal of having it go all dark and murky as you stretch out the delay. On the other hand I wouldn't mind hearing more BBD artifacts in return for not having so much of the signal rolled off.

So, here's the mod: Change the clock divider from /20 to /16. The dual decade counter U9 is setup as a divide by 10 feeding a divide by 2. I put in a binary counter setup as a divide by 4 feeding a divide by 4.

1. Remove U9 (CD4518)
2. Obtain a CD4520 and do a little jewelry work:

4. Stick a cutoff resistor lead in pin 11 of the socket
5. Plug in your creation and attach that lead to pin 12

6. Check your work.

The result is more subtle than I expected but sounds pretty good. Here's a few minutes of noodling around. Blacet VCO to VCA to Time Machine. It starts out dry. The wilder stuff is in the second half.

Have fun! nanners

edit: Hmm, I thought I'd annotated this already but...
The fact is, this divider is part of a PLL so the effect on the filter clock is reversed. You can try dividing by 24 or 21 but you'll probably start hearing the whine of the clock along with any extra signal you get.
PrimateSynthesis
BananaPlug asked me to post here from my Time Machine thread
https://www.muffwiggler.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=34693
in For Sale/Trade.

While I would prefer not to post schematics that would include part of John Blacet's design, I am willing to answer any questions.

In order to have continuously variable input aliasing, a panpot circuit -- built on a little daughter board -- goes from the input (R27) to the amp before the filter (R27) and the amp after the filter (R23). It uses the same resistor values. Since it is looking into the exact same impedances, the mod is invisible to the rest of the circuit. It does not require cutting traces or replacing any components, so the mod is completely non-invasive, and can be easily removed.

Since the Time Machines uses TL074's, I used a TL072, the dual version of the same amp.
Cat-A-Tonic
Blacet Sequential Switch modification.

Quoted from WeRock:
Quote:
Ok, here's a couple of photos and brief explanation (bearing in mind I didn't do the mods)

Underside of PCB:



4 tiny holes have been drilled in the PCB - 3 are for the stage out LEDS, which connect via a resistor to the IC pins and 1 for a common ground connection. The white wire from pin 8 is the ground connection.

Top Side:



Ignore the gray, pink & orange wires, they are for the 3/4 stage select switch which has been brought out to the front panel.

The white ground wire from the first pic doesn't have any insulation on this side, so you can just see the bare wire marked 'GND' next to the 3rd jack down. This connects one leg of all the LEDs to ground.

The 3 stage out wires that we saw on the underside connecting to the IC pins are the legs of the 3 vertically mounted resistors, with wires going from the other eend of the resistors to the LEDS.

Electrically it is all quite simple, just connect the resistors directly to pins 3, 2 & 4 of the 4017 chip and the other end to the LEDs. It just involves drilling through the PCB, which could of course end in

And you have to drill holes in the panel for the LEDs.

I'll do my best to answer any more questions...


Please put the pics here when you get a chance WeRock.
werock
Here you go...

Underside of PCB:



4 tiny holes have been drilled in the PCB - 3 are for the stage out LEDS, which connect via a resistor to the IC pins and 1 for a common ground connection. The white wire from pin 8 is the ground connection.

Top Side:



Ignore the gray, pink & orange wires, they are for the 3/4 stage select switch which has been brought out to the front panel.

The white ground wire from the first pic doesn't have any insulation on this side, so you can just see the bare wire marked 'GND' next to the 3rd jack down. This connects one leg of all the LEDs to ground.

The 3 stage out wires that we saw on the underside connecting to the IC pins are the legs of the 3 vertically mounted resistors, with wires going from the other eend of the resistors to the LEDS.

Electrically it is all quite simple, just connect the resistors directly to pins 3, 2 & 4 of the 4017 chip and the other end to the LEDs. It just involves drilling through the PCB, which could of course end in sad banana sad banana sad banana

And you have to drill holes in the panel for the LEDs.

I'll do my best to answer any more questions...
idiotunderground
anyone else attempted seq switch mods?
e-grad
werock wrote:
Electrically it is all quite simple, just connect the resistors directly to pins 3, 2 & 4 of the 4017 chip and the other end to the LEDs. It just involves drilling through the PCB, which could of course end in sad banana sad banana sad banana


One could always use longer wires to avoid any drilling through the pcb.
Cat-A-Tonic
Drilling through PCBs is not difficult.
I have done it on several occasions when no provision for standoff mounting holes was provided.

If you have to drill holes in a PCB, be sure to:
- avoid circuit traces,
- put some scrap wood under the PCB,
- start with a very small diameter drill-bit to make a pilot hole,
- where a mask to avoid breathing in nasty fiberglass dust.

Sorry if all that was painfully obvious.
e-grad
Babaluma wrote:
1 x Blacet EG1 with the following mods:
A) Separate three position switches on the Attack and Decay parameters, to give you Log., Lin., or Exp. curve responses


I just want to make sure that I've understand how the mod above is done:

Inverted out to the switch contact of the CV In jack = expotential; the normal out to the switch contact = log. An on/off/on switch inbetween the outs and the jacks allows to choose btn log, exp and lin?
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