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Repairing Juno switch toggles (as opposed to replacement)
MUFF WIGGLER Forum Index -> Music Tech DIY  
Author Repairing Juno switch toggles (as opposed to replacement)
JimY
I've had a Juno 6 hanging around for ages with a couple of broken 3-way switch toggle levers broken and missing. As it's mine, and quite tatty (ciggy burns on keys) I decided I'd get it in working order with minimum expense. Besides, there's an '80's party gig coming up and I think I'd like to have at least one genuine 80's instrument on the go!

I've thought long & hard about the best way to fix them. The break is flush with the operating block and seemingly there's nothing much to fit a new lever to in a reliable fashion. Well, it can't be worse than the original which might look like a metal lever, but is only a hollow tube cap over a plastic stub extension to the contact block and just asking to be snapped off in the first place. In contrast, the actual switch contacts are unlikely to ever fail!
I've had zero success finding any tips on repairing them out there, although surely somebody must have done it?

The switches are still in production although with a different style of aluminium cap (which is an optional fitting). Taiwan Alpha SL10020F.


These are genuine 3-way 3-throw switches unlike most toggles (centre pin is common to one of 3 output pins) so not easy to replace from other sources.

Anyway, what I did to repair mine was...

Pull the hinge pin out and remove the lever block - careful not to lose the detent spring from below the block.

Ensure the plastic contact slider in the switch body is in the middle (position 2).

Find some metal tubing around 3 to 4 mm dia and at least 12mm long. mine is brass. You can get it from hobby supplies (K&S metal centre). Also available in aluminium. This will be the new operating stem and you might find a tube next size up to slip over and make a lever closer to original size. I think that's too prone to damage so I'm keeping mine short.

With a drill bit same dia as your tube, drill down the centre of the broken stub into the switch block. Go slowly and don't go deep enough to break thru to the hole underneath that the detent spring fits in. When inserted in the new hole, the tube should just completely cover the hinge pin hole across the centre.

Cross drill with same dia as the hinge pin thru the pin hole and tube.
Remove tube, apply a little cyano, push it back in the hole checking alignment with the hinge pin hole - run the drill thru again to make sure but be quick before the glue sets.

When the cyano has cured, put the detent spring back under the block and put the assembly back in the switch body making sure it's still in the mid position. Push the hinge pin back thru. Secure the cap end of the pin with a little cyano.

If the felt dust collar washer was missing (both of mine were) replace them with some from the DIY store.

And that's it done! I just put some blue heatshrink over the tube of mine (I like blue) but a larger piece of tube could be slipped over instead. Solid rod could be used instead of tube for the operating stub, but will be more work to drill and won't add anything much.

Sorry, I didn't have any pics of it pieces as I wasn't sure if it would work out.
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