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WIGGLING 'LITE' IN GUEST MODE

Workshop Osc Machine (W.O.M.) - Kits + Build thread
MUFF WIGGLER Forum Index -> BugBrand Devices Goto page Previous  1, 2, 3, 4, 5  Next [all]
Author Workshop Osc Machine (W.O.M.) - Kits + Build thread
BugBrand
Hell-yeah!

Good stuff -- & a pleasure for me too.

I don't have many plans for more kits really - but the WOM kit may well get some changes sometime down the line (perhaps for the next round of workshop events in the Autumn - there are already some new additions & changes that could be good)

As far as modules go -- probably not, I'm afraid. While it may seem easier to offer kits than ready built modules, it is kind of a different game and not one that particularly appeals to me. Sorry!
miditerranean
I just finished soldering my kit and this little bugger sounds MEAN! I like it. A lot!

I love the smell of solder in the morning... smells like victory!

Here is the evidence

BugBrand!
Soy Sos
http://share.ovi.com/media/SoySos.public/SoySos.10077
A lot of subtle and cool little modulations on the ARP 2600's filter
2 slightly detuned sawtooth waves being filtered.
DGTom
I breadboarded the distortion / filter section from the W.O.M MY ASS IS BLEEDING
now I want one, but I'm broke & Tom, my sub-woofer is mad at you for the tortured over excursions that followed!
bar|none
Anyone know where to source these knobs?

http://www.bugbrand.co.uk/images/large/wombuilt_LRG.jpg

I'm building mine into a stribe and the knobs need to be tall enough to get through 1/8" plexi, including clearance for the other bits.
vurt
bar|none wrote:
Anyone know where to source these knobs?

http://www.bugbrand.co.uk/images/large/wombuilt_LRG.jpg

I'm building mine into a stribe and the knobs need to be tall enough to get through 1/8" plexi, including clearance for the other bits.


they look like the old behringer mixer knobs to me w00t
bar|none
Oh so they are and I happen to have an old beringer gathering dust, however they do not fit cause looks like the pots have changed from the photo.

Ok, back to the drawing board.
vurt
is it too loose?
i seem to recall tom mentioning using shrink tube layers to fatten the pot.
im not sure if that was to attch the behringer knobs though.
bar|none
Ah yeah, that would do it. Cool.
BugBrand
Those 'better' dials were only present on early boards - I put the footprints for the decent pots because i) I had some old compact knobs and ii) I got some good deals on Alps 9mm pots.

Things of problem:
- the knobs were strangely orientated - rotated 90deg from regular (must have been custom for the old Alesis mixer they came from)
- the Alps pots seem to have limited values available and aren't always great price.
The pots I use now on the BoardWeevils would be much better - 9mm Alphas from Mouser (not too bad pricing - search for 'Alpha 9mm' and then find the vertical mount ones, *not* the right-angle ones). They would fit onto those old footprints, but they'd be 90deg 'wrong'.

On the next round of boards I shall put the extra footprint for the improved dials but in general will still just supply the cheap'n'cheerful mini-dials that come as standard.
BugBrand
But, yes, Vurt is right about the bits of Heat-Shrink tubing - its a bit of a fudge but works ok!

Pics are earlier in the thread:::
https://www.muffwiggler.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=56010#56010
bar|none
Thanks for the info Tom. 90 degrees wrong might be right in my case since it's going vertical with the touch plate facing left. Or maybe that makes it 180 degrees wrong. Depends on which 90 degrees wrong I guess.

Anyway...I'll make it work.
KNYST
Tom!
If using other trim pots than mini 10k and 1M, should they be still be 10k/1M and what about Lin/Log? Any difference here between WOM v1,2,3?

Cheeeeers
KNYST
Thanks sungja!

Tom - is this still valid? Also for v3?
BugBrand
Hiya Knyst,

Sorry for my slow reply! (you know how it goes)

Ok - let's look at the updated schematic

I've basically tried to simplify the v3 WOM -- you'll notice that I've slimmed down the parts count and also changed things so that there are only three values of resistor used. This is largely to simplify making the kits and also to show that many component choices can be varied somewhat -- the whole system is aimed at being quite rough and ready!

So - your questions on using other pots:

Dials OSC1/2/3 & Starve - spec'd at 1M
-- these are the same as previous versions - again, use B (Lin) type. Use either 500K or 1M value - 1M will give a lower slowest rate, but the fine control near the top will be lessened.. You could also try a 1M pot with a 1M resistor placed across it.

Dials LVL1/2/3 - spec'd at 1M (B type / Linear)
-- these are the mixer pots and I did some slimming here..
-- usually we'd use 100kA pots for mixing with caps on the input terminal - the way I've set it up (without the caps) makes things a bit chaotic.. (maybe I should have left the caps on..)

So, you can either:
- use 1MB type pots
- or add caps on the input terminals and use 100kA pots
---- experiment!

Dial Tone -- use 10K Linear B

Dial Level - spec'd at 10k (B type / Linear)
-- this was another slimming so that two 10K dials could be used..

You may replace this with either 10k or 100k (A type is preffered)
If you use 100k you may want to change the input resistor (R11) to 100k too (to give unity gain)

Hope that helps!
BugBrand
PING - UPDATE TIME
Well, it has taken nearly a year to get around to doing more of the kits..

I recently updated with very slight changes to Version3.1 so that I had more PCBs for WOM events and at the same time did a PRO version with revised pot footprints for better dials (like on the Weevils).

As before, kits come with EVERYTHING (except for tools! Minimal requirements - just a soldering iron/solder/wire-snips)
You can download the documentation via the link below.

Perfect for beginners due to the detailed instructions, but also a quick'n'easy & fun build for anyone..

http://www.bugbrand.co.uk/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1_14& products_id=34

Fitvideo
I had this crazy idea of routing some round aluminium solid rod inch diameter and slotting the pcb in on the left and right , but it does not look like there is enough leeway on the PCB, unless anyone can tell me any different , or I have to wait until my toptastic new kit turns up next week ...

Now there is a thought , just do so at the four corners... even more interesting ...a bit of rod about 2 inches long, 1 inch diameter...



regards

Paul

Fitvideo
BugBrand
Fitvideo wrote:
I had this crazy idea of routing some round aluminium solid rod inch diameter and slotting the pcb in on the left and right , but it does not look like there is enough leeway on the PCB, unless anyone can tell me any different , or I have to wait until my toptastic new kit turns up next week ...

Now there is a thought , just do so at the four corners... even more interesting ...a bit of rod about 2 inches long, 1 inch diameter...

regards

Paul

Fitvideo


??!!??
Sorry Paul, but I have no inkling what you're on about!! (meant in the nicest way)
Luckily you'll probably have received the kit today (else on Monday) - always get things sent out asap.
The PCB design is very tight - there's not much spare space.

Cheers, Tom
Fitvideo
What a fantastically fun piece of kit... ordered on the Friday at 3.30 , arrived next morning first post, with good email communication to boot.

I cannot praise this kit highly enough ... fun dry , I need to run it through my effects rack next...

regards

Paul

Fitvideo
mrfang
Nice job on the design.

My total build time was 39 minutes. Total cakewalk!
BugBrand
Nice & quick!
I built one last week for someone and that was about how long it took me too.
Cheers, Tom
Paradigm X
just ordered one of these, my first project, hopefully wont mess it up

Cheers

smile
Paradigm X
Wow, been posted already, lightning quick, cheers Tom!

This is fun!

BugBrand wrote:
CV would be difficult! Two options - Vactrols over the dials (pitch ones and starve in particular). Or have a check of similar stuff (though quite a bit more advanced) on the electro-music Lunettas forum: link (em ain't working for me right now...)


Still interested in this - did the EM site come back? What am i looking for?

BugBrand wrote:
The particular question I was asked was 'how can I tune it to (for example) C?' - I initially said ??pitching in this crazy thing?!!?? but then thought more and figured a vague possible approach using Sync...If the trace between IC1 pin2 and C4 was cut (not easy - when built it is underneath the IC holder) you could input an external signal here to generate the Sync pulses. However, this would only work really with a squarewave input.. So, you'd probably be best to build another comparator to go in front of this - ie. Square-up the input signal, then pass it to the sync pulse converter.


As ive not built it now, could i cut the trace prior to building, and add it on a switch? Or at least two flying wires which could be joined?

Cheers

Ben
BugBrand
Cheers - I do my best!

On EM - have a look in the Lunetta Forum -
http://electro-music.com/forum/index.php?f=160
Most of the stuff there is based on the same 4000 series CMOS chips that the WOM uses.
Sure there are other bits of interest but check this for example:
http://electro-music.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=28799

I never tried out the Sync idea you quoted... It'd be slightly complex to achieve (due to extra comparators etc being needed) so if this is your first build I'd probably just build it 'as-is'

Good luck! Tom
Paradigm X
Thanks again Tom.

Since i havent got a clue what the circuit you linked me to is supposed to work or how it would potentially connect to the WOM i think ill take your advice and build it as is for now!

It is my very first project, basically for learning circuits and how to solder. I did do some soldering at University years ago so hoping itll go ok.

Cheers

Ben
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