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attempts at modcanizing
MUFF WIGGLER Forum Index -> Music Tech DIY Goto page 1, 2  Next [all]
Author attempts at modcanizing
dude
so i have two modules and some rack rail endcaps i am thinking about trying to somehow paint in order to match the color scheme that system has arrived at. it is for purely aesthetic reasons obviously and the logical part of me says not to fuck with it. that being said, i like the idea of a completely homogeneous looking instrument. has anybody ever painted a black module to look vaguely like a white one (modcan b)? if i can come up with a good enough plan, i was thinking about taking the modules apart and striping the black paint off. then somehow vaguely color matching the greenish white of the modcan and hand painting any words/graphics with the bluish back lettering. i know this probably sounds like insanity but i honestly need projects right now as i just found out about another damn dry spell at one of my jobs. i can't afford to order anything else or i would just try to pay somebody to do this.
any thoughts on paint or anything related would be amazingly helpful.
dude
not sure if was clear but i am talking just about faceplate colors here.
sandyb
no idea on paint. i'd try it with the rail endcaps or even buy a blank panel as a testing ground first. would give you something to experiment with and get it right before committing to a module.

edit: this is what the modcan site says about b series panels.

Quote:
B Series
1/16" aluminum laser cut with bent flanges for rigidity.
Panels are painted with semi-gloss Sherwin Williams Alkyd enamels and then baked at high temperature to produce a tough and attractive finish.
Text and graphics are silk screened using epoxy inks and then baked for solid adhesion.
the bad producer
I've had mixed results with this, but I tried using car body paint on panels, and then using lazertran to do the graphics... You need to bake the lazertran on so a heat resistant paint is necessary...

I say mixed results as in I couldn't be bothered to perfect it and they were a bit crap really, so no pics!

The other thing I did is to paint the panel and then get a print shop to print those dry rub transfers onto an A4 sheet from my graphics, and then rub them on and varnish over the top... this looks really nice I think, but too much bother I just print onto textured paper now and glue it onto the panel, see below for eg of the dry rub transfer:



obviously you can't see the detail there, but the pic is prob too big to post, if you go here:

http://loudestwarning.blogspot.com/2009/09/dgtom-dgtzara.html

you can zoom in etc...

Sometimes the letters don't stick properly like 'end' in the above pic...
dougcl
This might be a cheesy idea, but paint the panel white using a rattlecan. Get a pack of those sticky 8.5x11 transparencies. Make your module faceplate graphics in MS Paint, save as PNG so the background is transparent, print onto the sticky transparency at Kinkos. Cut out the module from the transparency, and stick the whole thing onto the painted faceplate. Don't use separate little pieces for each graphic. Use one big piece to cover the whole faceplate.

1) Cheap $10 ?
2) Should look good
3) Protects the paint

Doug
dude
right on guys. i have been thinking about what you both have said. i know for sure that it doesn't need to look perfect. i also have some pblanks laying about which could be abused for experimentations sake. i really just hope to find the right hue of off-white in a form of paint that will actually stick on the panels. color matching is my concern.
sandyb
i imagine if you took a modcan module to any decent shop selling the appropriate paint that they'd make a pretty good attempt at matching it for you.
dude
doug, i think you are right. i will grab a can'o'white and just see how that turns out on a blank. i am not so worried about protecting the paint or getting the graphics right after the background is white. i don't tend to get too violent when patching 8_) . i like the idea of hand-scrawling the necessary graphics. it is just a mult and possibly my abused dr. slope detector once it gets started/finished with an added white noise source. thanks for your help guys! i will try to post pics regardless of the outcome in order to warn people of how bad it looks hihi
dude
anybody know the number and/or US distributor of the mid-size knobs bruce uses standard on b series modules?
dude


so, i used an army greenish primer (closest green primer i could get) and some white acrylic lacquer spray. i am pretty pleased with the results. i still need to find the right clear coat. the color looks pretty close but mine is the browner side of green whereas bruces is the bluer/mintier side of green. all in all the base color turned out way better than i was expecting on the test plate. i bought some paint pens to write in whatever i need to write once the base bits are done. that part won't be the prettiest. the local auto-body paint guy was fucking great and have a meeting with him tomorrow set up as he wanted to see my results. i think i may try to incorporate a blue layer somewhere in there to help mintify.
parasitk
Nice! Now you just need to get it screen printed...
dude
ain't no screen printin' goin' on here son. it will be black paint pen printed. perfection is not the goal nor am i trying to pass these off as actual modcan products. just want the system to look a little more like a system.

i started over from scratch to get a mintier flavor by adding a little blue and all hell broke loose. turns out it is really hard to tell colors in the dark 8_)

i will take another crack in the morning before my paint meeting at the auto shop.

ah i suppose i could break out the work lamp. i clearly don't give up when i should.

sanding time. take 3
dude
i couldn't find a green primer that was more on the bluish side but i did find a cooler semi gloss white. i tried to mix a flat/purple blue on the 3rd try but the ix of all the colors just did not sit well. gonna try this one out and then maybe take the mult to trial.
bwhittington
The painting appears to have gone pretty well. What are the modules, the slope generator and a mult? Why don't you just go without the hand scribbling? I'm sure you can remember what's what on those two.

Until I realized you were almost done, I was going to recommend color printing on a "bumper sticker" sheet. After seeing Macbeth's pretty prototypes (though his were done on laminated paper or something), I have more lax ideas of what a homebrew synth panel needs to look like.

Cheers,
Brian
dude
well the mult will be easy enough to draw about 20 straight lines. no big deal if it isn't perfect. as for the slope detector, i am undecided. i liked the idea of writing 'White Noise' in my horrific handwriting. it just seemed really appropriate given what it was and what i am doing to it/them/he/she/we. overall i am amazed that i have gotten this far after just dreaming this scheme up last night.

the help and ideas have been just wonderful guys!

more sanding now.

fucking jazz rock!
dougcl
dude
lol

that is precisely how much excitement is going on here friday night! its total car chases n shit! you gotta watch the fuck out!
dude
ok i just finished what i think is the final coat of white. got a possible special cgs unicorn graphic to go on the slope detector and i think i will leave it at that in terms of writing/characters. the slope detector is so dead obvious as to function aside from my added white noise hole.
anyway,i ended up using a thin coat of the more buttery white under the final coat of the icier white. i am hoping it gets me a little closer, but the reality is that the base is just not going to be a perfect match. if get really anal about it i can always take shit apart again, re-sand and start from scratch.
dude
ah despite all the hard work, they turned out like shit. the white is too fucking white. looks terrible next to the real deal. the slope detector would be cool unto itself as the paint job is fine but it is jarring looking at the imposters in the case. hopefully i am just pissed about it and won't mind so much once i get used to it. we will see. i suppose i can try again at some point but that doesn't feel like a viable option at the moment. the mult is a total mess. i fucked up the lines BAD. and not michael jackson bad. i have inhaled too many paint fumes and not fed myself enough during this paint oriented process.

i hesitate to even take pics as it irks me but maybe it will be good for other crazy fuckers like myself who get it into their pea-brain that they can get away with stuff like this.

i suppose i will put em up on my flicker and link once that is done.
dude
ah the ultimate irony is that the pics make them look not half bad. i guess i just need to get over it. i promise it is worse in person hihi i was pleased to get that cgs unicorn on there but even that bit is a bit fucked. lol, i guess there was no fucking way this wasn't going to be shoddy. i had my hope up there for a bit. there you have it. expectations will bite you in the ass.
Luka
i recommend charlie's rub-on method for your graphic dude

next to your beatiful modcan panels hand drawn decal aint going to blend

will it blend = no
dude
put up in my flickr here


in some light they don't looks so bad. in others it is most frumpsome
dude
Luka wrote:
i recommend charlie's rub-on method for your graphic dude

next to your beatiful modcan panels hand drawn decal aint going to blend

will it blend = no


but will it blend?

sorry lol
Luka
some vanish might dull it down a bit
dude
do they make greenish white varnish that can go over clear coat?
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