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Doepfer connectors?
MUFF WIGGLER Forum Index -> Music Tech DIY  
Author Doepfer connectors?
Lem
I am having trouble finding the type of connector doepfer use for connection to bus boards.
Can anyone shed some light??
appliancide
They are 16 position ribbon or rectangular connectors. Different distributors will call them by different names.

The important part is to make sure the connector has a pitch and row spacing of .100"/2.54mm. Most euro busboards do not have keyed headers, so keyed vs non-keyed shouldn't be an issue. Most use ribbon cable, though options for discrete wire (or both) are available.

Here are a couple of example part numbers that we have at Digi-Key:

HSC16S-ND
S9298-ND
3M9058-ND

The Doepfer Construction Details page is a good resource for general eurorack standard questions.

http://www.doepfer.de/a100_man/a100m_e.htm
daverj
If you are talking about the connector that goes between the power supply and the bus boards, they are often called Faston, Quick Connects, or Spade connectors.

They come in various widths, thicknesses, and insulated or not.

http://www.mouser.com/Interconnects/Terminals/_/N-5g5u?Keyword=faston& FS=True
appliancide
daverj wrote:
If you are talking about the connector that goes between the power supply and the bus boards, they are often called Faston, Quick Connects, or Spade connectors.

They come in various widths, thicknesses, and insulated or not.

http://www.mouser.com/Interconnects/Terminals/_/N-5g5u?Keyword=faston& FS=True


Good call. I didn't even consider that might have been what he was talking about.
felix le chat
Hello,

I need a Doepfer bus connector too (10 pins are fine, I do not need to use the bus CV and gate). Is this one correct?
http://www.musikding.de/product_info.php/info/p1393_PCB-connector-10-p ins.html

Cheers
Flc
Jarno
No that's not the one, you'll need two rows of 5, 0.1" pitch
These, for instance
nihilist
In addition,
I am looking for doepfer cliff jacks

Need to replace about three of em on my 111
Jarno
Rapidonline in england have these as well. They are indeed made by Cliff.
Cliff Socket
felix le chat
Thanks for your answer

But actually I am looking for the ribbon cable connectors (end of Doepfer ribbon cables), so it must be female.

Best
Flc
Jarno
IDC Cable Connector 10 pole

In case anybody is wondering, no affiliation with Rapid, just a happy customer, especially since they have lowered the shipping amount for international orders w00t
felix le chat
Yes that's it
Thanks a lot

Flc
Tronketz
Ok, am I missing something?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p1yZKT3Yock&feature=related

It looks brain-dead-easy to roll your own ribbon cables... this might be off-topic but was wondering if anyone made their own ribbon cables.

I'd like to make my own ribbon cables to do the PCB to Panel connections.
daverj
Yes, it's quite easy, though if you don't pay attention when sliding the ribbon into the connector you can end up shorting wires together (connector being offset or on an angle).

I used a bench vice for years and then got the hand crimper that has been mentioned in the DIY forum a lot. Faster and easier if you are doing a lot of them. Otherwise a vice is fine.
Tronketz
Ooh, uhh, what hand crimper would that be? we're not worthy
daverj
Velleman VTIDC or similar

http://www.eio.com/p-23569-velleman-vtidc-idc-crimping-tool.aspx

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000ENZQIY
Tronketz
Sweet, thank you! That's the one mentioned also at Expert Sleeper's SilentWay website (for those in the UK using Rapid): http://www.rapidonline.com/Tools-Equipment/IDC-Connector-Crimping-Tool -86-0860
Tronketz
err... i think. seriously, i just don't get it
iopop
yes, that rapid one is correct. Ordered one from them a few weeks ago.
ultrashock
btw. do not buy 2*10 pins!, buy only 2*16 pins, since neighboring +5V pins will not allow you to put 10*2 connector
ndkent
ultrashock wrote:
btw. do not buy 2*10 pins!, buy only 2*16 pins, since neighboring +5V pins will not allow you to put 10*2 connector


I get what you are talking about but I'm sure it's sometimes more complex.

I just grabbed an A-188-1 because it's out of the case and a real world example. So for your bus board you must use a 2x8 (what you called 2*16), correct, you can't use something with say 10 pins since the top and bottom ends of any connector make them too wide.

But on the module side in my example there is only room on the PCB for a 2x5 connector (what you called a 2*10). There is a chip in the way preventing a 2x8. So if you were to build one you need a 10 (not 16) strand ribbon, a 2x8 connector and a 2x5 connector.
Jarno
Wow, 10Eur for a crimping tool, that's not that expensive. I use a small bench vise, but such a handtool is easier it seems, thought they were quite a bit more expensive.

By the way, do people check their ribbon cables after crimping? I usually don't, in the heat of the moment I'll just assemble a cable and plug in the new module, never had a short in the cable so far (in modules on the other hand...........).
cillianjohn
Hi,
I'm totally new to the diy scene here and I'm trying to order some basic supplies for Eurorack power cables. I've read though some threads, but still I'd appreciate if someone could check these mouser links, that I'm on the right track.

Ribbon cable;
http://fi.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=3302/10-CUT-LENGTHvir tualkey51750000virtualkey517-3302/10FT

Connector 10 pin;
http://fi.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=61201023021virtualkey 51110000virtualkey710-61201023021

Also if someone could verify that this cable is good for general wiring;
http://fi.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=3050_RD005virtualkey6 0200000virtualkey602-3050-100-03

Thanks
ultrashock
ribbon cable is okay (it should have 1.27 mm or 0.05" pitch)
10 pin IDC connector is also okay, however keep in mind you also need 16 pin one on another side of the cable that plugs into distro-board
cillianjohn
Cool, thanks.
How about the hook-up wire. Do you recon it'll be ok? http://fi.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=3050_RD005virtualkey6 0200000virtualkey602-3050-100-03

I know I dont want solid core, but this one doesn't specifically say that its stranded.
NV
cillianjohn wrote:
Cool, thanks.
How about the hook-up wire. Do you recon it'll be ok? http://fi.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=3050_RD005virtualkey6 0200000virtualkey602-3050-100-03

I know I dont want solid core, but this one doesn't specifically say that its stranded.


It's stranded. Under the item specifications it states "Stranding: 7x32," meaning 7 strands of 32awg copper.

That wire would be perfectly fine for SDIY, but you may want to see if you can find some bulk wire distributors in Europe since Mouser and others generally have an enormous markup on wire. You could save about 75% in many cases, which is money you could spend on a couple different spool colors to make wiring easier. There are many places in the US for bulk wire purchases at about $7 for 100ft spools, but I'm unsure about Europe - I'm sure someone knows some places though.
J-iron
Hi,

Now it's not easy to find that cable. I found a solution: use old IDE cables and cut them after the 10th cable. Cut directly the bus port between the 10th and 11th pin.

the in the other side, you can choose the connector you want and solder it.

Here are some pictures:

https://docs.google.com/folder/d/0B6Ky59dNxs3qYlRCcHY3dzltaHc/edit?usp =sharing

Best Regards

Alain
Lockheed
Yeah, I'm scavenging old IDE cables for power too. Also throw-away Cat5 twisted pair cables provide for color coded hookup wires. Recycling is good thumbs up
gonkulator
Jarno wrote:


By the way, do people check their ribbon cables after crimping? ... never had a short in the cable so far (in modules on the other hand...........).


I, on the other hand, have had a short (no damage, thankfully) and am wondering if there is a way to test cables other than choosing between $300.00 testing units and testing the continuity of each wire individually.
waggles
daverj wrote:
Yes, it's quite easy, though if you don't pay attention when sliding the ribbon into the connector you can end up shorting wires together (connector being offset or on an angle).

I used a bench vice for years and then got the hand crimper that has been mentioned in the DIY forum a lot. Faster and easier if you are doing a lot of them. Otherwise a vice is fine.


+1 on vise, though that hand crimper looks cool. I must have cracked about 20 of these things trying to compress them with pliers
PolarIceCaves
waggles wrote:
daverj wrote:
Yes, it's quite easy, though if you don't pay attention when sliding the ribbon into the connector you can end up shorting wires together (connector being offset or on an angle).

I used a bench vice for years and then got the hand crimper that has been mentioned in the DIY forum a lot. Faster and easier if you are doing a lot of them. Otherwise a vice is fine.


+1 on vise, though that hand crimper looks cool. I must have cracked about 20 of these things trying to compress them with pliers


how does this work exactly?
i need to take the 16 pin female end off of a cable and reverse the side the red strip is on, i think it was assembled incorrectly.
gonkulator
PolarIceCaves wrote:
waggles wrote:
daverj wrote:
Yes, it's quite easy, though if you don't pay attention when sliding the ribbon into the connector you can end up shorting wires together (connector being offset or on an angle).

I used a bench vice for years and then got the hand crimper that has been mentioned in the DIY forum a lot. Faster and easier if you are doing a lot of them. Otherwise a vice is fine.


+1 on vise, though that hand crimper looks cool. I must have cracked about 20 of these things trying to compress them with pliers


how does this work exactly?
i need to take the 16 pin female end off of a cable and reverse the side the red strip is on, i think it was assembled incorrectly.


You should only need to do this if you have a module with a shroud, at least in the short term. Otherwise, it is possible to pry the connector open, but it is real easy to break the part on the ends that keep it locked. Even if you do, you can still reverse it and reassemble it, though you should get a replacement part, kind of a pain. Also, you will have to reassemble it a bit shorter than before, avoiding the previous cuts in the insulators. You will see what I mean when you get it apart. There might be a video out on doing this.

Of course, you could always grind off the tooth and mark it so you know it is out of spec.

This may not have been very helpful, but here's hoping.
PolarIceCaves
gonkulator wrote:
PolarIceCaves wrote:
waggles wrote:
daverj wrote:
Yes, it's quite easy, though if you don't pay attention when sliding the ribbon into the connector you can end up shorting wires together (connector being offset or on an angle).

I used a bench vice for years and then got the hand crimper that has been mentioned in the DIY forum a lot. Faster and easier if you are doing a lot of them. Otherwise a vice is fine.


+1 on vise, though that hand crimper looks cool. I must have cracked about 20 of these things trying to compress them with pliers


how does this work exactly?
i need to take the 16 pin female end off of a cable and reverse the side the red strip is on, i think it was assembled incorrectly.


You should only need to do this if you have a module with a shroud, at least in the short term. Otherwise, it is possible to pry the connector open, but it is real easy to break the part on the ends that keep it locked. Even if you do, you can still reverse it and reassemble it, though you should get a replacement part, kind of a pain. Also, you will have to reassemble it a bit shorter than before, avoiding the previous cuts in the insulators. You will see what I mean when you get it apart. There might be a video out on doing this.

Of course, you could always grind off the tooth and mark it so you know it is out of spec.

This may not have been very helpful, but here's hoping.


Yes It was connected to a module with a shroud. Maybe I'll just grind off the tooth like you've suggested, sounds like the easiest way to go.

There are small triangles to indicate where the red line should line up on the end connector, but looks like it was disregarded on one end.
daverj
There are several companies that don't pay attention to the key when making their ribbon cables, including Doepfer. They assume all distro boards are not keyed.

I don't recommend removing a ribbon connector and re-crimping it back on. Use a new one. The pins deform slightly when crimped, so sometimes when re-crimping a removed connector you can end up with a poor connection or short to a neighboring wire. If you do remove a connector and add a new one, I suggest not just moving the position to avoid the old holes in the ribbon but take a pair of scissors and cut off the ribbon next to the old holes. The insulation can tear when crimping and removing a connector, leaving fine strands of wire that might touch.
indigoid
Jarno wrote:
By the way, do people check their ribbon cables after crimping? I usually don't, in the heat of the moment I'll just assemble a cable and plug in the new module, never had a short in the cable so far (in modules on the other hand...........).


"never trust a ribbon cable, never trust a red stripe"

I actually take this a step further and don't trust new modules either. I have a little 3U test rack that I try every module in (separately) before it goes into the modular.

I have had one ribbon cable arrive (from a local vendor, not from anyone in the Buy/Sell/Trade forum here) with a short between -12V/GND. Never again.
whoop_john
I bought a bunch of 20 of these 10 ways from Aliexpress. £0.8 GBP each including shipping. It didn't seem worth messing about making my own at that price. You can also order just one for £0.84 inc shipping. I dare say I could find 16 pin versions but I was not looking.
daverj
whoop_john wrote:
I bought a bunch of 20 of these 10 ways from Aliexpress. £0.8 GBP each including shipping. It didn't seem worth messing about making my own at that price. You can also order just one for £0.84 inc shipping. I dare say I could find 16 pin versions but I was not looking.


Euro power cables should always have a 16 pin socket on the end plugging into the distro board. Some do have 10 pin connectors on one end, but only on the module end. Not the distro board end. If you plug a 10 pin connector into the 16 pin header on a distro board you will bend the unused pins, which will make it difficult to then plug a 16 pin connector into that header in the future.
mgofmc
I recently made quite a few. I bought connectors and cable at a local surplus place (HSC in Sunnyvale, CA, who are awesome if you are within range), and use an $18 Harbor Freight bench vise to do the assembly. A proper crimp tool would be nice, but I am cheap. smile

Quite a few of my modules were bought used via eBay and arrived without cables, so I just made my own. One thing I do is have a really good visual inspection of the end of the cable to make sure that there are no exposed wires or shorts, which can happen when you cut the cable.

Thinking about it, I should set up a test rig that lets me hook up a module to a bench power supply so I can bring it up with a hard current limit. Keeping magic smoke on the inside is always good!
indigoid
On a related note - any suggestions on what search terms I should use to find keyed PCB-mount connectors to plug into Euro bus boards?

Context: DIY Mutable Instruments Volts

I have been browsing E14 and Mouser with no real success. Plenty of non-keyed options, but would prefer to avoid that if possible
qfactor
For DIY, I'd usually go with "if it fits, that's the one"!!
sad banana
daverj
Like this:

http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/8516-4500PL/MSPV16-ND/1306248



Or right angle, like this:

http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/SFH11-PBPC-D08-RA-BK/S9204-ND  /1990097

indigoid
Thankyou!
Shoggoth
Posting so I can find this later. Veritable treasure trove of info here.
komyta
Hello,

I'm looking for part numbers for a Vertical 10-pin double row PCB Header (Eurorack power PCB connector), that would go with this socket.

If possible, I'd prefer not to order from Rapid because of shipping costs.
These days I'm gathering parts at Farnell and Mouser.
I made a long search for these headers, and I find many, but I have a question :

Are the contact material and contact plating very important ?

I find parts with Gold or Tin as contact plating, and Phosphot Bronze, Brass or Copper Alloy as contact material.

Also, do the header and socket materials have to be matched ? Should I care about it ?

I noticed that sellers of ready made Eurorack power cables do not give the manufacturer's part numbers for the sockets.
This tends to indicate that I should not care too much, but I'm curious and would like to know what people think about it, especially since power seems to be one of the weak points of most Eurorack systems.
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