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Front Panel Proof Reading Thread
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emdot_ambient
Super Deluxe Wiggler


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PostPosted: Fri Oct 28, 2011 6:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

I would suggest swapping the shape controls and the fine tune controls, then just use a line connecting Coarse and Fine which will indicate their connection without the need for additional labels.

Right now the shape controls are floating by themselves, that's why I asked about them. Putting the Fine controls there would make more sense (to me) especially if their association with the Coarse control is graphically illustrated.

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negativspace
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 28, 2011 8:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Oh hey, look who's layout-critiquing now. hihi

When I tried it the way you describe - and I absolutely did - I didn't like the relationship between the waveform switch and the fine control pot. They're too close to one another to be functionally unrelated. Since I'm committed to sticking with a layout that fits with the existing modules in the series, every possible control arrangement is a compromise of some sort. I think this is the compromise that works best for me.

I do appreciate the feedback and critique, though! No stone unturned...

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Luka
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 28, 2011 8:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Sorry - didnt mean to open a can of worms smile
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emdot_ambient
Super Deluxe Wiggler


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PostPosted: Fri Oct 28, 2011 9:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

negativspace wrote:
Oh hey, look who's layout-critiquing now. hihi

Ah, but that wasn't criticism. I was, rather, simply suggesting a possible solution to the dilemma.

It ain't a can of worms so much as the usual push and shove, give and take of panel design thumbs up

Of course one way around the issue is to get rid of the Fine controls totally and just use 10-turn pots (hides)

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Luka
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 28, 2011 9:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

That is how all my vcos are done - i dont see the point of duplicate controls
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negativspace
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 28, 2011 11:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

I had that thought, too... but I really prefer the coarse/fine control arrangement in actual use. Plus, I thought it might be good to be able to sweep the full frequency range of these with a turn of a knob - FM wackiness and whatnot.
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EATyourGUITAR
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 07, 2011 2:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

I need some DUSG in my life. I'm hoping this will increase the power of my very small system. I did not include an AC out or the 1v/oct input. you can put a normal connection from trig out to trig in if you will use it for LFO more than a AD or AR.
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Norman_Phay
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 12, 2011 3:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

I've been mulling over this one for a while - it's for the ryk M185 sequencer, in frac format. I've made it real life size on the computer screen and held the various components up against it to make sure it all fits and it seems all right, but likely to be an expensive mistake if not! Have a look:
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EATyourGUITAR
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 12, 2011 4:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

@ Norman Phay I see two 3mm holes that look like they should not be there in the middle of the panel. they could be 3mm LED's? what about Run/stop, reset, prev, next? are those buttons? if so 0.15 is kinda small for a button shaft unless its PCB mount. the 3mm LED between RESET and PREV is probably fine. but I don't know why you have a few 3mm LED between step 5 and 6 at the top and bottom. that looks like a mistake. I don't know why you want two LED's for 5 but not the others. CV OUT has two holes. whats the 0.25 inch? is that banana or euro? then there is a 0.17 inch next to that. is that a jewel light?
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sduck
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 12, 2011 5:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Those holes between 5 and 6 and the extra ones at 3 and between reset and prev are pcb mounting holes I would presume - ?. The extra cv out hole is for the range selection switch.

Actually everything looks pretty good. I built the 2.1 version of this, but the only front panel difference is the stage cv in. I assume your stage leds are at the bottom, and the knobs are at the top? If so, the knobs may be a bit crowded, depending on what kind of knobs you're using. There are 2 3mm holes that look like the may be leftover led holes in the middle of stages 1 and 2 - or are those mounting holes for the portmento add-on pcb?

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fluxmonkey
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 12, 2011 5:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

EATyourGUITAR wrote:
I need some DUSG in my life. I'm hoping this will increase the power of my very small system. I did not include an AC out or the 1v/oct input. you can put a normal connection from trig out to trig in if you will use it for LFO more than a AD or AR.


to me, it's counter-intuitive to group the pots together vertically, but th jacks grouped horizontally... easy enough tp swa[ 'em so each channel lines up in one row. you could then also add some vertical dividing lines to help keep each AR visually distinct...

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EATyourGUITAR
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 12, 2011 6:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

your probably right. I just thought it would look stupid with
ATTACK ATTACK ATTACK ATTACK across the top but I did not even try it that way. I know I need to move the LED's if I do it that way. I might just scrap the design in favor of a dual module with +/- exponential curve knobs and exponential on/off toggle switch. I may or may not have some 281 coming instead of the DUSG. I heard Toppo has more PCB's but is too busy to answer PM's right now. 281 or DUSG the saga continues.
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Norman_Phay
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 12, 2011 6:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Sduck has it - the additional holes are for the ryk pcb and a stripboard addon for the portamento mod. Looking at each stage, the little hole at the bottom is for the stage LED, and the hole above the long slider cutout is for the little switch to select portamento for that stage.

For the 3 knob controls - tempo, slide and gate time, I was going to use those serge knob lookalikes that small bear do, I have a big bag of them. The pushbutton switches for run/stop, reset, previous and next are these tiny little sub-min buttons I saw at Maplin's.

I'm planning on ordering this one next. Even though I have pesoldered all of the resistors to the little 4- and 8-way switches, I am dreading the panel wiring for this one, it looks like a real ordeal.

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Rod Serling Fan Club
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 15, 2011 8:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

My panel design program and skills are rudimentary so so use your imagination. The "+" are knobs, switches, jacks and LEDs. Don't get too hung up on size differences of the +'s. I used another panel as a template so a few are inconsistant. I'm mostly concerned about any spelling errors and the like or if there is something about the layout you would change. There are already a couple things I'll likely change... Thanks!


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emdot_ambient
Super Deluxe Wiggler


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 15, 2011 9:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

I don't see any errors.
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Rod Serling Fan Club
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 16, 2011 1:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Thanks emdot
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valis
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 22, 2011 11:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

@ Rod Serling Fan Club I don't see any noticeable typos either. I don't quite understand the multiplier/divider module so I assume that's all labled correctly. Looks good.
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fluxmonkey
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 23, 2011 11:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

@Rod Serling Fan Club -- just my own quirk, but i tend towards a left->right organization based on the order modules are most likely to be patched. i have more short patch cables than long, and it generally help me keep a clear mental map when i'm tweaking. so i'd rearrange a bit, maybe (left to right):

-clock
-RCD
-Sequencer
-Woggle
-Switch
-Quantize
-Mix

also for me personally, i'd be doing a lot of CV summing on a panel like this, and would probably opt for 2 single-width mixers (3 bipolar ins and a bias?,) rather than a double.

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Rod Serling Fan Club
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 23, 2011 5:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Thanks for check valis

flux - I do to and on paper the order was roughly similar to what you suggest. Then I started looking at different setups and serge panels and such (like the sequencer and red control panels for isntance) and realized the panels seemed a bit backwards to me and then it all made sense. If you have your VCOs on the left of a panel it would make sense that a CV control panel like this would have the quantizer/sequencer closer to the VCOs. It also made sense that clock divisions and such would be closer to EGs and things you would want to clock, which jives with my other panel.

Good idea on the mixing capabilities. I could shrink the quantizer by a row, and have already been considering doing so. The CGS mixer pcb is small enough and I have one on hand. I really like being able to use the attenuvertor as a mixer and/or invidual bi-polar "CV processors" so I think I would keep that but adding an additional mixer is a great idea.

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PostPosted: Fri Nov 25, 2011 12:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

I think this is my final revision. Thanks for the mixer suggestion flux. I worked out perfectly. I was going to try to stick a CGS VC comparator/divider there but the PCB was going to be tough to fit in the box as many of the PCBs in the boat take up a lot of room and are different shapes so stacking is difficult. The CGS mixer board is tiny and perfect.


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