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Thomas white LPGc questions
 
 
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Author Thomas white LPGc questions
Ianh
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 22, 2012 3:14 pm    Post subject: Thomas white LPGc questions Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Hey guys i got my pcbs and am going to make my parts order soon. Before i do i had a couple questions about some features i wanted to add (or maybe they are already there) and wanted to make sure i got all the parts for it.
The first thing i would like to do is have voltage controle over the resonance (doesn't seem like this is implemented). I also wanted the resonance pot to act as an attenuator when i had incoming cv. I know i would need a switching jack but after that i am not really sure.
I also wanted to install two dual vactorals and have the ability to switch between fast and slow vactorals. In my mind these are both simple things to accomplish but i have found these types of mods are more complex than they appear.
p.s. this will be my first build.
thanks guys
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jumunius
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 22, 2012 3:41 pm    Post subject: Re: Thomas white LPGc questions Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Ianh wrote:
The first thing i would like to do is have voltage controle over the resonance (doesn't seem like this is implemented).


Not a feature of the Thomas White LPG. That's on Craig Lee's. Not sure what it would take to add it.

Ianh wrote:
I also wanted to install two dual vactorals and have the ability to switch between fast and slow vactorals. In my mind these are both simple things to accomplish but i have found these types of mods are more complex than they appear.
p.s. this will be my first build.
thanks guys


Start with the switching vactrol thread at electromusic, and you'll find a link back to a useful thread here too. So you know, I have such a switch, and while it works, I don't get self-oscillation out of my slow vactrols, only the fast one. Some people have more luck than others; many people seem to have trouble getting self-oscillation from the slow ones. I now have more boards but I'm hesitant to implement this feature again. If you do implement this, one thing you might try is buying a handful of each kind of vactrol and trying out different combinations to see what works best. You want them to respond similarly as Freq/Res knobs are swept.
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Ianh
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 22, 2012 4:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

cool thank you this is very helpful for the vactrol set up. Definetly need to do research. Im sure other people would be interested in a res cv mod so perhaps more searching is in order for this as well.
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valis
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 22, 2012 4:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

For voltage control over the resonance circuit it'd probably just be easiest to add a vactrol to the circuit. Some tweaking may be required to get the suitable response. Check out bridechamber's voltage controlled resistor.

http://bridechamber.com/VC_Res_PCB.html
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fonik
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 22, 2012 4:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

maybe it would be even easier by adding two sockets (res out and in, out normalled to in) and to do the voltage control by an external VCA that is part of the modular already.
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Ianh
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 22, 2012 5:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

valis wrote:
For voltage control over the resonance circuit it'd probably just be easiest to add a vactrol to the circuit. Some tweaking may be required to get the suitable response. Check out bridechamber's voltage controlled resistor.

http://bridechamber.com/VC_Res_PCB.html

Interesting would this give cv over the offset and resonance similar response times or would this cause the cv over the res to be slightly delayed behing the offset?
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negativspace
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 22, 2012 5:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

fonik wrote:
maybe it would be even easier by adding two sockets (res out and in, out normalled to in) and to do the voltage control by an external VCA that is part of the modular already.


My suggestion as well. Since the resonance loop is conveniently brought out to jumpers on the PCB, this is a really easy thing to do. I've got a few panel sketches around here somewhere with precisely this solution implemented... never did build one, though, so can't comment on how it sounds/works.

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Ianh
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 22, 2012 8:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

fonik wrote:
maybe it would be even easier by adding two sockets (res out and in, out normalled to in) and to do the voltage control by an external VCA that is part of the modular already.


This sounds like a much better option. I am a little confused how this would actually be set up. I see the 4 "res jumpers" 1b, 1,a and 2b, 2a. So I would take two 1/8th sockets so "out" was coming from the res pot and if there was no jack inserted it would carry over to the in and allow the pot to have control over the resonance. Where as if there was cv going to the "in" the pot would no longer have function and you would use a vca to attenuate the cv signal. Would the "out" socket then allow the res pot to function as a stand-alone attenuater? I think have mis-understood the configuration.
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jumunius
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 22, 2012 11:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Ianh wrote:
Where as if there was cv going to the "in" the pot would no longer have function and you would use a vca to attenuate the cv signal.


I'm not sure offhand how to wire this, but I think you're misunderstanding how you'd design a CV input for Resonance or any other parameter. You don't want to disable your Resonance pot when you have a CV. You want both the Resonance pot AND the CV to be able to operate simultaneously. On the most basic level, consider the CV signals you might be inputting -- you might use an LFO, which swings from positive to negative, or you might use an envelope, which just swings from zero to positive and back, unless you invert the envelope signal, in which case zero to negative and back. Your Resonance pot allows you to set the right starting place from which to modulate your parameter, and that "right place" will vary based on input and desired result.

Then in performance you may very well want to start with no modulation and build up your resonance slowly using the pot, manually, and then slowly bring in LFO, and then slowly decrease the resonance pot value as you raise LFO, etc. So having two knobs is very desirable, and in fact, what you'd expect on any manufactured synth you buy.

Make sense?

Now hopefully someone else will answer the rest of the question so I can consider this for my next LPG build. grin
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Ianh
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 23, 2012 1:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

If any one would care to offer an explanation of how to set up matthias'/negativespace's suggestion i would be very grateful.
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fonik
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 23, 2012 4:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

i will try, refering to the rev 3.0 schematic:

for the res mod there are two jumpers: JP1 and JP2.

i would insert the out/in sockets right before U1, so that you could still use the res pot for attenuation.

1st solder a wire bridge to connect JP1A and JP2A.

2nd solder a wire from JP1B to your "res out" socket tip AND to the switching contact of your "res in" socket.

3d solder a wire from your "res in" socket tip to JP2B.

how does it work? resonance is a feedback. you just hack into this feedback loop with your out/in sockets. if you don't plug a chord into the in socket, the signal from the out socket is applied. as soon as you plug a cord in, signal from the out socket is disconnected.

i believe this option would enable further experiments with processing the feedback, and/or applying other external signals.
the more i think of it, the more i want it to try myself hihi

edit: spelling

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Last edited by fonik on Thu Feb 23, 2012 11:36 am; edited 1 time in total
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Ianh
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 23, 2012 9:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Thanks matthias! That makes perfect sense. Can't wait to get this set up!
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Ianh
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 23, 2012 12:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

This must be very annoying but just to insure that i understand (and perhaps for benefit of others doing this mod i drew up the mod on the 3.2 pcb.

Just out of curiosity if i pluged a jack into the out only would i be able to use that signal and leave the loop un affected? Or would i need to buffer it some how.
Thanks for bearing with me.
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fonik
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 23, 2012 4:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

your picture looks good to me, at least does it show what i meant.

Ianh wrote:
Just out of curiosity if i pluged a jack into the out only would i be able to use that signal and leave the loop un affected? Or would i need to buffer it some how.
Thanks for bearing with me.

actually it is buffered already. nevertheless, to be on the safe side you could add a i.e. 330R resistor in series to protect the opamp.

so wire from jumper to switching contact of "in" socket AND via 330R to "out" socket...

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Ianh
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 24, 2012 2:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Awesome thank you very much!
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jumunius
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 24, 2012 2:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Ianh wrote:
Awesome thank you very much!


Indeed, thanks Fonik. And I'm glad you asked Ian, it's a useful addition to the next build!
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fonik
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 24, 2012 3:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

let's wait for the results hihi
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Ianh
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 24, 2012 5:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

I am ordering parts after i finish my current project. If any one implements this mod before i do my build i would love to hear the results.
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fonik
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 25, 2012 8:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

i applied the mod today. took me just a few minutes to drill the two additional holes and wire it up.

uploading a sound is no use, since the mod does not change anything in sound. it is just that you control the amount of the resonance feedback with an external VCA. filters with voltage controlled resonance have an internal VCA, that's all. often this VCA is OTA based, stripped down versions of a common OTA based multipurpose VCA.

i am not sure if you wanted to use a linear or an log VCA. i did not have the time to test this in depth...

anyways, the mod does not change anything of your internal circuitry so it is worth it anyways if you only can afford the real estate in front panel.

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PostPosted: Sat Feb 25, 2012 11:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

fonik wrote:


uploading a sound is no use, since the mod does not change anything in sound. it is just that you control the amount of the resonance feedback with an external VCA. filters with voltage controlled resonance have an internal VCA, that's all. often this VCA is OTA based, stripped down versions of a common OTA based multipurpose VCA.

How about adding resonance pots for your ps3100 resonator, would it be as easy as connecting the individual outs via a mixer back to the input ? Or is there something more complex going on if one wants this kind of action?
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fonik
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 25, 2012 4:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

a while ago i tried feeding back the summed out to the input. the result was a very harsh resonance, very noisy. maybe i should try inverting it? or as you said: just using a single out...
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Ianh
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 25, 2012 6:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

fonik wrote:

i am not sure if you wanted to use a linear or an log VCA. i did not have the time to test this in depth...

I suppose alot of the fun of using an external vca would to have both options. Thanks again! Im very excited about this.
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 27, 2012 10:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

fonik wrote:
a while ago i tried feeding back the summed out to the input. the result was a very harsh resonance, very noisy. maybe i should try inverting it? or as you said: just using a single out...
Ok, would you want to try it? I havent't got mine panelized yet and would like to implement resonance to my panel if it works...
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fonik
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 27, 2012 4:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

astroschnautzer wrote:
fonik wrote:
a while ago i tried feeding back the summed out to the input. the result was a very harsh resonance, very noisy. maybe i should try inverting it? or as you said: just using a single out...
Ok, would you want to try it? I havent't got mine panelized yet and would like to implement resonance to my panel if it works...

i tried it with the sum out, at least. inverted does not do much. non-inverted it does too much. it sounds a little bit like frequency modulation (ring mod), depending on the settings. depending on the frequency of the incoming signal there is only a very small range of feedback that sounds like resonance. very easily you get these hardsyncing/ringmod sound. interesting, alas, not what we want.
ATM i cannot try single outs. would have to open up the cabinet and all, which i don't have the time to these days.

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astroschnautzer
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 27, 2012 4:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

fonik wrote:
astroschnautzer wrote:
fonik wrote:
a while ago i tried feeding back the summed out to the input. the result was a very harsh resonance, very noisy. maybe i should try inverting it? or as you said: just using a single out...
Ok, would you want to try it? I havent't got mine panelized yet and would like to implement resonance to my panel if it works...

i tried it with the sum out, at least. inverted does not do much. non-inverted it does too much. it sounds a little bit like frequency modulation (ring mod), depending on the settings. depending on the frequency of the incoming signal there is only a very small range of feedback that sounds like resonance. very easily you get these hardsyncing/ringmod sound. interesting, alas, not what we want.
ATM i cannot try single outs. would have to open up the cabinet and all, which i don't have the time to these days.
Ok, I will try the individual outs and see what happens, I so much would love to have this function...
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fonik
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 27, 2012 5:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

astroschnautzer: check PM!

(we are very off topic right now)

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 27, 2012 5:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Not sure if anyone else has experienced this.
BUT
I built a dual LPG and it was working fine,
then last week the output level has "sharply" decreased
and is giving off a hum, due to not being grounded.

SO, I am not sure why it was working just fine,
and isn't now...

Anyone?

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 07, 2012 6:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Newb diy'er confused trying to order shit alert!
Ordered a couple boards and I'm going to build some other things before I get to these but I'm trying to build a project in mouser for parts - a few things are challenging me..
Going by the list with part #'s specified in DJ Thomas' bundle of docs there are these polystyrene caps that are obsolete, and all similar rated polystyrene film caps are as well. Specifically:
Polyester Film Capacitors 250volts .1uF
and
Polyester Film Capacitors 63V 1.0uf
and then also this resistor:
Carbon Film Resistors - Through Hole 4.7Mohms which is backordered 14 weeks out.
Can anyone recommend parts that would work or a way to approach this?
Sorry if these are dumb/easy questions - just getting going with this stuff.

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 07, 2012 7:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

bsmith wrote:

Going by the list with part #'s specified in DJ Thomas' bundle of docs there are these polystyrene caps that are obsolete


I think you mean polyester. At least the ones you call out as being obsolete are polyester.

For Polyester Film Capacitors 250volts .1uF try this one. (Note that the voltage rating seems unnecessarily high, but that's not necessarily bad, so I matched it.)

For Polyester Film Capacitors 63V 1.0uf try this one.

And for this one, Carbon Film Resistors - Through Hole 4.7Mohms, try this one.

Quote:
Can anyone recommend parts that would work or a way to approach this?
Sorry if these are dumb/easy questions - just getting going with this stuff.


No problem, we all gotta start somewhere. As for a way to approach this, next time you run into this problem, use the "Show Similar" feature. To do this, look at any of the links you posted, then look at the spec list that is posted at that page. Uncheck the manufacturer (AVX, Xicon, etc), and then check off all the important specs (you'll learn this over timeO. For a cap I'd keep Product Category, Capacitance, Termination Style and if it's there, Lead Spacing at least. I might leave voltage unchecked to give myself more options. (You can use a higher voltage rating if you can't find a good choice in the spec'd voltage.) Then click "show similar" and check your results. You can further refine your search results with other filters, including lead spacing.

And I hate to say it, but in some ways, the best way to learn how to order parts from Mouser is to make some mistakes. If you plan on sticking with DIY, plan on that, and figure there will ALWAYS be another order to make.
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 07, 2012 8:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

You can also shift-click in the Mouser category lists to select multiple categories for a search - so click 35v, 50v and 63v + 1.0uF with polyester caps for example. From there click on 5mm lead spacing + radial and see what you have left.
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bleeps
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 07, 2012 8:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Hitching a ride on bismith's question: Does a specified lead spacing affect anything other than fitting into a particular PCB layout? In other words, is it okay to sub something with a different spacing if that's what you have on hand provided all other specs are compatible?
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 07, 2012 8:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Thanks so much guys - this is a project that's quite a ways off, have a bunch of other very cool things closer to the level I should be working on to make my way up to these - wanted to at least get the boards in case they became unobtainable. Thanks for the mouser hunt tips - sometimes it kind of seems to present me with an easy way to get related parts and sometimes not - or something.
I don't know where the hell I pulled 'polystyrene' from!

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 07, 2012 8:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

bleeps wrote:
Hitching a ride on bismith's question: Does a specified lead spacing affect anything other than fitting into a particular PCB layout? In other words, is it okay to sub something with a different spacing if that's what you have on hand provided all other specs are compatible?


As long as they physically fit into the board that's all that matters

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lordofthebored wrote:
Any news on this yet? I just sold all my other modules of this type so I could replace it with this different implementation of the same thing!
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 07, 2012 11:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

gwaidan wrote:
As long as they physically fit into the board that's all that matters


True. Although one can be a bit too cavalier about this as well. On one of my first projects I accidentally ordered a handful of 1/2w resistors and various ill-fitting caps. I learned a lot of lessons the hard way there:

1) if you have an oversized resistor in a tightly packed row of resistors, you will either mount it above or below the other resistors, which means that if you have to desolder anything for troubleshooting/modding you may have to desolder neighboring components as well.

2) a 10mm or 2.5mm polyfilm cap might fit a 5mm space on your board well enough, but it's leads might be too small to reach easily, which can lead to soldering problems. (You can often just solder a clipped resistor lead to one of the legs of course, but that can be dodgy too.)

3) sometimes an oversized component will also have oversized leads (as in, too thick a gauge!). So then maybe you have to drill out your PCB's holes, which is especially dodgy.
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cleaninglady
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 10, 2012 7:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

jumunius wrote:
bsmith wrote:

Going by the list with part #'s specified in DJ Thomas' bundle of docs there are these polystyrene caps that are obsolete


I think you mean polyester. At least the ones you call out as being obsolete are polyester.

For Polyester Film Capacitors 250volts .1uF try this one. (Note that the voltage rating seems unnecessarily high, but that's not necessarily bad, so I matched it.)

For Polyester Film Capacitors 63V 1.0uf try this one.

And for this one, Carbon Film Resistors - Through Hole 4.7Mohms, try this one.

Quote:
Can anyone recommend parts that would work or a way to approach this?
Sorry if these are dumb/easy questions - just getting going with this stuff.


No problem, we all gotta start somewhere. As for a way to approach this, next time you run into this problem, use the "Show Similar" feature. To do this, look at any of the links you posted, then look at the spec list that is posted at that page. Uncheck the manufacturer (AVX, Xicon, etc), and then check off all the important specs (you'll learn this over timeO. For a cap I'd keep Product Category, Capacitance, Termination Style and if it's there, Lead Spacing at least. I might leave voltage unchecked to give myself more options. (You can use a higher voltage rating if you can't find a good choice in the spec'd voltage.) Then click "show similar" and check your results. You can further refine your search results with other filters, including lead spacing.

And I hate to say it, but in some ways, the best way to learn how to order parts from Mouser is to make some mistakes. If you plan on sticking with DIY, plan on that, and figure there will ALWAYS be another order to make.


I just emailed Thomas and also David Brown the other day about these High Spec capacitors ; both of them said it was going to make very little difference. I was going to buy them but after speaking to these guys , I just used Ceramic caps for everything apart from Electro's.

In regards to the Carbon Film 4.7M Resistor ; i just used a 4.7M Metal Film .5W.

Is there a discernable difference anyone can point out in this case ?

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e-grad
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 10, 2012 8:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

cleaninglady wrote:
I regards to the Carbon Film 4.7M Resistor ; i just used a 4.7M Metal Film .5W.

Is there a discernable difference anyone can point out in this case ?


You just have used a higher quality resistor [hence the difference in price hihi ].

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cleaninglady
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 10, 2012 9:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

e-grad wrote:
cleaninglady wrote:
I regards to the Carbon Film 4.7M Resistor ; i just used a 4.7M Metal Film .5W.

Is there a discernable difference anyone can point out in this case ?


You just have used a higher quality resistor [hence the difference in price hihi ].


Yeah i know , it's what i had on hand.

But sound difference ? Anyone ?

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PostPosted: Sat Mar 10, 2012 9:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

cleaninglady wrote:
But sound difference ?


None.

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PostPosted: Sat Mar 10, 2012 10:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

cleaninglady wrote:
I just emailed Thomas and also David Brown the other day about these High Spec capacitors ; both of them said it was going to make very little difference. I was going to buy them but after speaking to these guys , I just used Ceramic caps for everything apart from Electro's.


While I'd generally recommend taking the advice of David Brown and Thomas White over anything I say, are you sure you understood them correctly? My understanding is that you can use C0G or NP0 rated capacitors in place of film, but not true with just any ceramic capacitor. And for values like 1uf, I don't even find a C0G/NP0 at that capacitance... these are usually available for smaller values. I'm not even sure you'd save much money if you are buying C0G/NP0 as compared to standard film caps. (And you can probably shop around and get cheaper film caps, I just pick WIMA reflexively since there are so many options out there and I know WIMA are decent quality.) The big savings comes when compared to polystyrenes etc.

Now in the case of the .1uf caps, those are just decoupling caps, and ceramic is a great choice there (and I don't think temperature rating is so critical there). I was just matching to the specs of Thomas' BOM.

Even David Brown uses several film capacitors throughout his build. He does use ceramics for decoupling, of course.

Quote:
In regards to the Carbon Film 4.7M Resistor ; i just used a 4.7M Metal Film .5W.

Is there a discernable difference anyone can point out in this case ?


Yes, physical size! But if it fits, then no worries.
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