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[ORDER] 808 kick drum PCBs
 
 
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Author [ORDER] 808 kick drum PCBs
bananeurysm
Veteran Wiggler


Joined: 14 Jun 2009
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Location: Portland, OR

PostPosted: Thu Mar 01, 2012 2:57 pm    Post subject: [ORDER] 808 kick drum PCBs Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

EDIT 4.10.2013 - From now on I am taking all orders through tindie:
https://www.tindie.com/shops/jmej/808-kick-drum-clone-pcb/

Stock list is kept up to date on that site!

The PMs are a little much for me to keep up with - so an integrated ordering system makes it all much easier!

Please note that I am now charging $2usd for shipping anywhere in the world. Shipping rates went up and at the same time my post office started following the rules more often and charging me (the correct) rate. Ha.


Hey guys - I haven't posted for awhile, because trolling too much makes my backlog grow too fast. BUT- I have something some of you might want in your own personal backlogs.

I have about 40 pcbs of the final rev of my 808 kickdrum layout. It's basically the Roland circuit, with some minor changes to the trigger input (based on Eric Archer's website), and with the common mods incorporated. (A frequency pot, and the optional decay mod via a resistor value change)

I don't have the BOM online yet - but I'll throw it on my website soon, along with build notes. It's an easy/quick build, nice small pcb.

This is the first PCB I've offered, but it's been tested by a bunch of folks with lots of happy kickin finished projects out there. It's a double sided, very high quality board - fabbed in the US.

I'm selling them for $25 + $2 shipping anywhere in the world

AND you can see from my pics that I have a solid test bed for comparisons. SlayerBadger! It sounds legit and awesome.


Last edited by bananeurysm on Wed Apr 10, 2013 3:22 pm; edited 6 times in total
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NS4W
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 01, 2012 3:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

... but where's the audio demo?! cry

is cv for frequency an easy mod to this design? a tuned/playable 808 kick would be nice.

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Last edited by NS4W on Thu Mar 01, 2012 3:28 pm; edited 1 time in total
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revtor
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 01, 2012 3:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

any crazy obscure old components needed??
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mome rath
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 01, 2012 3:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

revtor wrote:
any crazy obscure old components needed??




doesn't look like it

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Reese P. Dubin wrote:
Thanks for all the suggestions. As is often the case, all I need to do is publicly shame myself then take a break.
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bananeurysm
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 01, 2012 4:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

You can use obscure transistors if you want.. but my bom and board indicate substitutions - and it absolutely sounds like my real 808. I should post up audio samples.. you're right. I'll get to that soon!

Adding a vactrol to control the frequency pot with CV would be trivial.. though I haven't done it. I DO however have some tiny vactrol pcbs I should maybe do a run of. hmmm.....
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mome rath
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 01, 2012 4:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

interested in this but $25 is too rich for me sad banana
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Reese P. Dubin wrote:
Thanks for all the suggestions. As is often the case, all I need to do is publicly shame myself then take a break.
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Barcode
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 01, 2012 4:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Edit: After looking over it again.... I want one.

Last edited by Barcode on Thu Mar 01, 2012 7:19 pm; edited 1 time in total
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obscurerobot
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 01, 2012 4:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

What kind of power does it want? +9V?
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negativspace
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 01, 2012 4:43 pm    Post subject: Re: [ORDER] 808 kick drum PCBs Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

bananeurysm wrote:

I'm selling them for $25 shipped. I know I can include shipping within the USA for that.. I've never shipped PCBs abroad, but I guess depending on the country and the cost - I can hope to include shipping in that price as well... but otherwise I'll let you know after investigating.


Two things:

1) I want one!

2) International shipping on something like a PCB or two is almost totally painless. I've just sent about 200 boards, many of them overseas this last week - I use a 6"x9" padded envelope and I tape the PCBs to a piece of scrap cardboard which I salvage from old boxes, for rigidity. It comes to about $3/ea at the post office using first-class airmail.

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Last edited by negativspace on Thu Mar 01, 2012 5:40 pm; edited 1 time in total
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keninverse
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 01, 2012 5:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

I'll take one.
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Pfurmel
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 01, 2012 5:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

If you can manage postage to Ireland, I'll buy one.
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darenager
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 01, 2012 5:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

What are the power requirements for this? Looks like single supply? If so I'll take one, any plans to do the others? (snare, clap, hats etc?)
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ringstone
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 01, 2012 5:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

bananeurysm wrote:
You can use obscure transistors if you want.. but my bom and board indicate substitutions - and it absolutely sounds like my real 808. I should post up audio samples.. you're right. I'll get to that soon!


Should be fine with substitutions as the components Roland used in the TR-808 (such as 2SC945, 2SA733, 4558) are all "general purpose" parts (although there are a couple of exceptions).

That said, the 808 BD will only require these afore-mentioned parts apart from caps and resistors, and they are quite readily available still. Although some sellers may sell you variants (such as KSC945) which are similar but have a different pinout.

And yes, it would be quite easy to mod this board to do the usual 808 BD mods (such as pitch mod) as they are generally only resistor substitutions.

bananeurysm: Thanks for making this available. Might pick up a couple myself, will make the doing the next couple of 808 BDs a bit easier!

Cheers
Blair

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ringroad1
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 01, 2012 5:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

darenager wrote:
What are the power requirements for this? Looks like single supply? If so I'll take one, any plans to do the others? (snare, clap, hats etc?)


there's pos, gnd and neg input at the top right, imagine it needs a bipolar supply.

Someone building a possibly similar version of this on electro-music suggested that it sounded not so boomy at 9v, pretty good at 12v, and spot on at 15v.
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bananeurysm
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 01, 2012 5:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

negativspace - thanks for the info! It sounds like I can stick to shipping included no matter the destination. smile

darenager - power.. the original schematic asks for +/-15 I believe.. but I (and a few others) have been powering them with 2 9 volt batteries (in a +/- configuration) and it works and sounds great!

I am planning on doing more drum modules, possibly from the 808 but I'm not sure. I'd like to do 606 hats - but haven't started on that. I have a 909 kick drum pcb that has a few issues I need to troubleshoot still. And I have a Simmons SDS3 project that's probably getting attention next. (Theres an electro-music forum thread that's probably deadish regarding that.) Anyone have any favorite clap circuits? (808 is obvious - but I bet there are more out there..)

mome rath and Barcode - sorry for the price - I'm trying to recoup the R&D that went into several runs/revs. Also using PCB fabs in the US is kinda pricey - but it's important to me to stick with it. (And high quality boards are also important!)

Eitherway - total parts cost with 1/4" jacks and pots ends up being around $15 - so it's still a pretty cheap project still!
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bananeurysm
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 01, 2012 5:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

ringroad1 wrote:

Someone building a possibly similar version of this on electro-music suggested that it sounded not so boomy at 9v, pretty good at 12v, and spot on at 15v.


It certainly sounds boomy and "right" to me at 9v.. but I haven't experimented with other supplies. I'll do so and post audio - though it'll probably be a weekish before that happens.

I assume whatever thread you were following is basically the same circuit.. the 808 schematics are all over the place - and it's an elegant design that doesn't really need much improvement!
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ringroad1
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 01, 2012 5:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Good news on the 9v front, makes it more adaptable for diff power supplies.

If you're looking at other drum modules to do, I always wanted a little analogue Latin friend for my 606, so would fancy the congas, rim shot and cowbell from the 808 but I might be on my own there :-)
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negativspace
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 01, 2012 6:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

The 808 rimshot is actually one of my favorite x0x sounds. And the cowbell's... well, distinct at least. I don't even remember the congas, which probably tells the whole story there. Still, I think it would be nice to see something other than kick/snare/hats for a change. (How about the 808 Cymbal?)

I think 606 hats would be great. I've always been partial to those, even when I had an 808 and 909 alongside my 2 606s. I don't need one as I still have a 606, but definitely an unsung circuit IMO and one that's not already out there. (Who am I kidding, I'd still probably build one.)

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ringstone
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 01, 2012 6:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

BTW Ryk Miller's Liquid hihat is a great board for playing around with all sorts of 808/606 style hihat/cymbal sounds. I have a couple in my backlog to build up.

Cheers
Blair

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EMwhite
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 01, 2012 6:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Dumb question but is the Trig input compatible with a Vdrum Roland pad or is it more of modular synth square trigger?

And how much does the BOM total up to?
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Revok
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 01, 2012 6:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

I would probably kill to get a Simmons Clap Trap type clap so I'm going to try to push you in that direction for the next project cool
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bananeurysm
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 01, 2012 7:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Revok wrote:
I would probably kill to get a Simmons Clap Trap type clap


The old analog or digital one? I can only find demos of the digital one.. which sounds awesome. Got any examples of the old analog one? And have schematics of either one? (I imagine the digital guy uses some lofi samples on eprom or something?)

EMwhite - I would think vdrums would work fine. I actually have a set, I should test that.
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bananeurysm
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 01, 2012 7:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Oh also - my mouser BOM with 1/4" jacks and alpha pots is about $15. I'm happy to share it with anyone who wants it.
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mckenic
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 01, 2012 7:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Pfurmel wrote:
If you can manage postage to Ireland, I'll buy one.


Wanna split shipping? I wouldn't mind giving this a go - looks like a straight forward build!

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Paradigm X
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 02, 2012 4:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

ringstone wrote:
BTW Ryk Miller's Liquid hihat is a great board for playing around with all sorts of 808/606 style hihat/cymbal sounds. I have a couple in my backlog to build up.

Cheers
Blair


Certainly is!

Ive built an uber modded version (switching caps to change range), and actual 606/dr110 envelopes (modded for decay envelopes) and 110vca, sounds amazing! Still got a few things to sort out but its f'in brilliant! love
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Pfurmel
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 02, 2012 4:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

mckenic wrote:
Pfurmel wrote:
If you can manage postage to Ireland, I'll buy one.


Wanna split shipping? I wouldn't mind giving this a go - looks like a straight forward build!


Absolutely fine with me, thanks for the suggestion.

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L-1
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 02, 2012 8:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

One for me pls.
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microfauna
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 02, 2012 10:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

one please. pmd
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marvkaye
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 02, 2012 11:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

One for me as well, please. I'll PM...

<m>
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NS4W
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 02, 2012 1:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

bananeurysm wrote:
Oh also - my mouser BOM with 1/4" jacks and alpha pots is about $15. I'm happy to share it with anyone who wants it.


Please do!

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kollo
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 02, 2012 1:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

I'll take one!
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bananeurysm
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 02, 2012 3:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Here's a link to my mouser bom for any who want it:

http://www.mouser.com:80/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=95 0b04d9fc

Let me know if that works for you...

[edit] I'm going to hold off another day or two to ship the first round. Didn't realize how fast people would come through with payments! smile

PM me if you haven't, and you want boards.
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bananeurysm
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 07, 2012 4:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

UPDATE - I just shipped out boards to the list below. If you don't see your nick and wanted a board let me know! (Or if you paid and aren't on that list CERTAINLY let me know.. though there are a couple boards I shipped that I may not have connected Muff nicks for.)

I still have plenty of PCBs left if anyone else wants em!

Like I mentioned - this is my first time shipping pcbs, and I used standard USPS shipping across the board. If anything gets lost or damaged in transit - let me know, I'll gladly ship another board out.

The mouser bom in the above post should work out for building em up - coupled with the CAD drawing here: http://www.anestheticaudio.com/?page_id=153 to get a better look at the part labels. Let me know if you have any problems, questions - or suggestions for changes on future PCBs! And post finished pics!

aladan
barcode
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keniverse
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mckenic
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 07, 2012 5:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

nanners It's peanut butter jelly time! nanners

Thanks a million man!

Woo Hoo!

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decaying.sine
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 07, 2012 5:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Can you use the original Japanese transistors with your board. It sounds like you can from a previous post.

If so, I'd be interested in one PCB. Did I miss your paypal address? I'll PM you.

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emdot_ambient
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 07, 2012 7:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

PM'd for 2 It's motherfucking bacon yo It's motherfucking bacon yo
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dmix
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 07, 2012 10:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

yes i want 2, pmed you
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Barcode
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 08, 2012 12:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Will you be making the snare / clap / ect in the future?
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Juxwl
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 08, 2012 2:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

PM'd. Can't wait to replace my weak 606 BD with this!

Maybe we can all get together and design a front panel for these....
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darenager
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 08, 2012 2:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

I PMed you but not heard back?
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bananeurysm
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 08, 2012 3:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Barcode wrote:
Will you be making the snare / clap / ect in the future?


Yes! Eventually I want to make a whole standalone drum machine, but leading up to that - many drum modules! smile Clap is nearer term than snare, though I haven't decided on any circuits. Any ideas?

Darenager - sorry I missed your reply in my inbox - pm sent back!
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fate
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 08, 2012 6:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

if i was good at making fronts id be all over this
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Barcode
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 09, 2012 10:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

bananeurysm wrote:
Yes! Eventually I want to make a whole standalone drum machine, but leading up to that - many drum modules! smile Clap is nearer term than snare, though I haven't decided on any circuits. Any ideas?


I'm a big fan of the 808 clap. So make that one! hihi
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sanders
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 10, 2012 5:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Barcode wrote:
bananeurysm wrote:
Yes! Eventually I want to make a whole standalone drum machine, but leading up to that - many drum modules! smile Clap is nearer term than snare, though I haven't decided on any circuits. Any ideas?


I'm a big fan of the 808 clap. So make that one! hihi


Yes, or the DR110 Clap; They are similar I think, and relatively simple.

Although, this might make a better stand-alone module, the EH Clap Trap. Has built in controls and a separate Cymbal output also!

Schematics for it are here:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v368/zero_thehero/schematics/claptra ck1.jpg
and page 2:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v368/zero_thehero/schematics/claptra ck2.jpg
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jumunius
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 11, 2012 1:03 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Got mine, thanks Jesse! Teeny little bugger.
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 11, 2012 8:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

sanders wrote:
Yes, or the DR110 Clap; They are similar I think, and relatively simple.


Actually quite different! The 808 uses analog noise from a single transistor, the DR-110 digital noise from 4006/4070. The 808 uses a VCA (BA882A) to shape the noise, with a complex envelope generated from an AN6912 quad comparator chip - the DR-110 CPU directly generates a number of triggers to trigger the circuit multiple times... which came as a bit of a shock to me as I expected them to be much the same! The issue of the CPU generating the triggers actually makes the DR-110 circuit much harder to clone.

Interestingly, the Roland HC-2 handclap pedal circuit is mid-way between the two - it uses the same (or similar) digital noise circuit as the DR-110, but retains the VCA/envelope setup of the 808...

Note the BA662A used in the 808 clap is probably the rarest/most expensive chip in the analog drum circuitry side of the 808. Stocks of these have been depleted by people building x0xbox's. BA6110 is a suitable replacement though.

Cheers
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 11, 2012 11:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

sanders wrote:

Although, this might make a better stand-alone module, the EH Clap Trap. Has built in controls and a separate Cymbal output also!

Schematics for it are here:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v368/zero_thehero/schematics/claptra ck1.jpg
and page 2:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v368/zero_thehero/schematics/claptra ck2.jpg


Does anyone have a demo of the Electro Harmonix Clap Track? There's one on ebay right now, I'd love to hear a demo of it. Rare unit.

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 11, 2012 5:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Got mine today.
Thanks so much Jesse!

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 12, 2012 1:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

A bit expensive... If I order 2, I'll be paying shipping twice for one package... Maybe I'll stagger my order to get my shipping value twisted
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 12, 2012 2:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Just wanted to add my thanks! Got mine to Ireland this morning, tiny little fella thumbs up

Thanks so much! please put me down for whatever you release next! Off to DL the BOM now smile

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 12, 2012 2:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Got mine over the weekend, has to be the smallest one I've purchased (excepting pot chiclets, of course). Time to get out the magnifier and soldering iron. Woohoo!! Thanks, Jesse. nanners nanners

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 12, 2012 2:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Mine came in today.
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 13, 2012 2:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Glad you guys are getting those boards! Yeah I definitely recommend referencing the cad file as you build - unless you've got a killer magnifying glass setup!

FYI I'll be shipping the second 'round' of orders tomorrow most likely.

Stoked to hear how you guys like these bangers!

One thing to note is you won't get any sound unless you're giving it accent. You may want to tie it high (to the + side of your supply) - or just supply a constant voltage from another module while you're testing.
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 13, 2012 2:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

LektroiD wrote:
A bit expensive... If I order 2, I'll be paying shipping twice for one package... Maybe I'll stagger my order to get my shipping value twisted


Shipping works out to cost under $1.50 no matter where I send it. It costs me slightly more to send a cardboard envelope with multiple boards - but not much. These guys are light enough that the post office here is happy to consider one or 2 of them a normal letter.

Eitherway - it's not much of an expense, and that's why I'm just throwing in standard shipping to wherever. I'm selling them for $25 locally as well.

<edit> Also - if interest remains this high for stuff like this - I'll be able to bring the price down on future projects. nanners
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 13, 2012 2:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Got mine yesterday, looking forward to hearing this in action.
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 13, 2012 3:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

One quick build note:

This pcb is designed to include the classic decay mod that extends the possible decay time. If you follow the silkscreen for part placements your kick drum will end up with extended decay.

If you want the 'factory' decay settings - replace the 42.2k resistor with a 47k resistor.

(I'm putting this on my webpage as well)
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 13, 2012 7:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

bananeurysm wrote:
Posted: Tue Mar 13, 2012 8:08 pm

after 3:03 pm/am the best time to post is 8:08 pm/am lol

i replied your priv.message...

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 13, 2012 7:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Is anyone attempting to add VC over tuning?
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 14, 2012 9:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Just built mine.I'm not sure as far as 808 comparison because i don't have one but i did have my wife yelling from across the house "your shaking all the damn dishes in the cabinet" so i guess that's good!
Very happy with it Jesse,thanks again man.

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 14, 2012 9:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

got mine going yesterday - sounds killer - someone do a panel for this thing!!!
using the 2 batteries with ground tap now - anyone have any ideas for getting power into it in a tidy way in euro? we can stick a 3 pin header in there - and then what? thought about soldering a ribbon in but would like to find a cooler way.

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 14, 2012 10:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Audio or it didnt happen!

Ive not yet read the bom or anything so please forgive the stupid question - is it possible to put a pot or a switch in there for decay?

thumbs up

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 14, 2012 10:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

there's a pot for decay - pots are for freq, tone, decay, and level.
can go pretty fuckin long. maybe will do a quicky demo tomorrow.

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 14, 2012 10:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

thumbs up

Doh!

Thanks mate!

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 14, 2012 10:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

bsmith wrote:
got mine going yesterday - sounds killer - someone do a panel for this thing!!!
using the 2 batteries with ground tap now - anyone have any ideas for getting power into it in a tidy way in euro?


I came to the realization that i'm going to be building a bunch of stuff that does not have euro headers so i put a busboard of the "motm" style connectors from Ken Stone in my euro case.No more weird 4 pin spliced into ribbon cables.

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 15, 2012 4:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

So a couple questions:

The output level seems to be a little low is anyone else experiencing this ?(peaking at -10db)

Also, how are you guys wiring the accent ? The way i have it right now is on a normally closed jack wired to the trig input so that i get a kick if there's no accent present but i can insert an accent,the only problem is then i only get a kick when an accent is present.Little boggled over this one so any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks for any input guys,
Tony

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 15, 2012 4:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

nuff respect to Jesse for getting this out, got mine on Tuesday, just got it going.

Running off +/-12v, and triggering from the tom outs on a 606, it sounds good, I don't have an 808 to compare it to directly, but it sounds like an 808 all right. I think I've built it up according to the BOM, only thing is I used a 43k resistor instead of the 42.2k, and combined two resistors to get 5.98k-ish instead of 5.9k.

The decay seems pretty twitchy, it's a fine line between a long delay and long ringing self-oscillating madness. I'm wondering if I'd be better off with the stock 47k instead of the mod 42.k/43k.

I had the same issue as Tony D - wiring a voltage divider up and sending about 6-7v into the accent by default made it work as expected.
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 15, 2012 5:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Hey Ringroad,
Did you just tap off of the positive side of your supply to accent ? I'm just a little concerned of having a positive voltage getting sent to whatever i'm using to accent with which is why i didn't do that but maybe i don't need to worry about that?

Also, the decay on mine seems to work as expected.I'm definitely not getting any ringing, but i did just use Jesse's bom so i had all the exact parts he specified.

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 15, 2012 5:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

eek, yes I did. I dunno about voltage going to the trigger source - I guess I could use a diode to make it one way only?

also, are you on 9v or 12v?

Some discussion about stripboarding the 808 bass drum here:

http://electro-music.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=37646&postorder=asc
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 15, 2012 6:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

tony d wrote:
"your shaking all the damn dishes in the cabinet"


Awesome! So glad you guys are getting these things thumpin! That quote is the best ever.

I haven't measured output with varying trigger or accent sources - so I can't speak off the top of my head to that. If someone comes up with something conclusive I'd love to hear/know!

Having built a few myself, and having helped 5 or 6 folks build others - I can say that the trigger length varied signifcantly from build to build. I'm not sure if it's due to transistor varience, or just in-tolerance resistor value differences, but eitherway there's probably no substitute for throwing a pot into that resistor footprint and tweaking it until you ID the resistor value you like for your circuit!

I just shipped another round of boards today. I still have more if folks want. SlayerBadger!
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 15, 2012 9:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

ringroad1 wrote:
eek, yes I did. I dunno about voltage going to the trigger source - I guess I could use a diode to make it one way only?

also, are you on 9v or 12v?

Some discussion about stripboarding the 808 bass drum here:

http://electro-music.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=37646&postorder=asc


Ok, i think i can use it the way i'd like with my sequencer i just couldn't get my head around it at first.
The diode is a good idea i think i'll give that a shot because i did find the more voltage i gave it the louder it got overall.

Thanks for linking that thread at em that had some good info.

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 16, 2012 3:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

fwiw, 808 service manual says the trigger length is 1ms.

Jesse, does your circuit incorporate the snippet that Eric Archer called the "trigger glue"? (on his 808 clone page?)
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 16, 2012 2:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

ringroad1 wrote:
fwiw, 808 service manual says the trigger length is 1ms.

Jesse, does your circuit incorporate the snippet that Eric Archer called the "trigger glue"? (on his 808 clone page?)


Yep!

Also - I've been informed that my mouser BOM is short a 100k resistor. I updated it JUST now. Sorry for any mixup! (I figure most of us have those lying around though. . .)
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 16, 2012 6:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Here's some short demos of my build, just to show the difference between 12v and 15v.

12v:
[s]http://soundcloud.com/ringroad/808-kick-on-12v-4db[/s]

15v:
[s]http://soundcloud.com/ringroad/808-kick-on-15v-4db[/s]

Triggering from TR-606 trigger outs, TL072 swapped out for a JRC4558, not that I think that makes much difference. Didn't touch the controls of the 808 whilst I was recording and they're at the same relative level.
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 16, 2012 6:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

BTW the 808 snare drum seems to be the circuit that is most sensitive to trigger length. Although Eric Archer's trigger trigger conditioning circuit does get it close to sounding like the real thing I didn't get 100% satisfaction with my clone until I started using Silent Way to trigger directly (without the conditioning circuit), so I could really fine-tune things. Using an ES-3 will give a good range of trigger voltages too.

Cheers
Blair

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 16, 2012 6:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

ringroad1 wrote:
Here's some short demos of my build, just to show the difference between 12v and 15v.


Wow- big difference there! It seems like you're getting random fluctuations with on your 12V demo. Are you using a similarly stable power supply for both?

With 9v batteries my kicks have been boomy and consistant.. I'll try to post a demo when I get a chance to record it.. though I probably won't make it to my shop for a weekish. Maybe someone else has a battery powered build handy to throw a demo up?
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 17, 2012 10:03 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Yep, hats off thumbs up - just tried it again with two 9v batteries, and also with the 15v supply and it's not such a big difference between the two. There must be something up with my 12v. Which might explain a few other things.

Again, same settings, not touching volume or anything, accent on everything.

9v:
[s]http://soundcloud.com/ringroad/808-9v-mono[/s]

15v
[s]http://soundcloud.com/ringroad/808-15v-mono[/s]

There's still some slight variation in kicks in either case, but I'd expect that.

I've been trawling through the sdiy archives, and Colin Fraser says...

Quote:
One thing to be careful of with a lot of the 808 sounds...
They use hi-q twin-t filters that are very close to oscillation. The trigger
pulse hits the filter, causing it to oscillate for a short time, but then
decay to silence.
You have to be careful to keep any wiring to tune pots as short as possible,
otherwise these filters will pick up and boost any mains hum they can find,
especially if the filter is tuned near a harmonic of mains frequency.
A better design would mount the pots on the PCB, just as the original did.


The wires to my pots are pretty long, so that could be the reason for the overexcited ringing oscillation on my build past a certain decay point.
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 17, 2012 3:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Ahh cool. Thanks for following up!

I wonder if what I was noticing re: decay responses differing between builds was directly related to wire length on the tune pot.
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 17, 2012 4:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Just got mine!

FYI, though, the mounting holes are too close to some of the components for me to use the standoffs I typically use (4-40 aluminum hex). The standoffs will touch the solder points and create shorts...probably will have to get some nylon ones or something smaller in diameter.

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PostPosted: Sat Mar 17, 2012 4:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

...Also...the three 0.1uF caps on the BOM are no longer stocked.

581-SR201E104MARTR1 would probably do the job.

thumbs up

[Edit] Looking over the mouser BOM a bit more...

Which controls to these pots correspond to:
A 100K
B 500K
B 100K
A 10K

Why did you use stereo jacks? hmmm.....

The 220 ohms resistors is rated to 1/2watt...not important? 1/4watt fine? I assume you just chose this one 'cause it was the cheapest.

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PostPosted: Sat Mar 17, 2012 5:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

ringroad1 wrote:
The wires to my pots are pretty long, so that could be the reason for the overexcited ringing oscillation on my build past a certain decay point.


I'm pretty sure this hints at the better explanation of your overexcited ringing oscillation:

Quote:
The trigger pulse hits the filter, causing it to oscillate for a short time, but then decay to silence.


If you set your decay too long, you just get self-oscillation and no decaying to silence. I'd think the design would set your max decay short of self oscillation but maybe not (sometimes a little self-oscillation at the max can be desirable). Or maybe slight variations (>5% in resistors?) could be a factor. I don't know where the 5.9k and 42.2k are in the circuit, for instance.

As for the wiring, I built a CGS Drum Simulator (dual Twin-T drum voice) and monkeyed around with it a bit, bringing all the things to the panel that Ken suggested leaving off the panel. Mr. Green I definitely experience self-oscillation if I overdo the decay. I also made myself a very extreme tune knob, which definitely did get noisier with more wire (such as when I was testing w/ clips). I ultimately used shielded cable for my tune pot, which IIRC helped matters a bit, but at extreme settings (ones which are way out of whack with the Twin-T design) I do pick up slight extraneous hums. However we're talking like up in the range where my bass drum voice sounds like a metronome click, not anywhere near where I expect you'd want to tune your 808 kick!
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 18, 2012 2:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

emdot_ambient wrote:
...Also...the three 0.1uF caps on the BOM are no longer stocked.

581-SR201E104MARTR1 would probably do the job.

thumbs up

[Edit] Looking over the mouser BOM a bit more...

Which controls to these pots correspond to:
A 100K
B 500K
B 100K
A 10K

Why did you use stereo jacks? hmmm.....

The 220 ohms resistors is rated to 1/2watt...not important? 1/4watt fine? I assume you just chose this one 'cause it was the cheapest.


The pots values are labelled on the board - but it's pretty small/hard to read!
Freq: 100ka
Tone: 10ka
Decay: 500kB
Level: 100kB

1/2 watt resistor isn't important - 1/4 is fine all around.

I just always use stereo jacks for 1/4" projects - simply so I always have the same jack lying around. Mono is fine. Sorry about the mounting holes! If I do another run I'll take a good look at that. Thanks for the tip!
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 18, 2012 2:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

What's the deal with the accent input??? It's been suggested that it needs to be a constant voltage tapped off a divider from the power source... I would have thought it should respond to a second trigger that causes that particular beat to "accent", thus the name. Am I missing something here? How does it work, really?? seriously, i just don't get it

<marv>
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bananeurysm
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 18, 2012 2:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

You can think of the accent as a VC input for amplitude.. offset from 0.

So by default, the thing will make no sound. If you're feeding it a constant voltage - it will sound when triggered, at an amplitude directly related to the accent voltage.

I should look at the 808 schematics, but I assume the 'accent' pot is a voltage divider between the power supply and the steps. By default (or with the pot at 0), some voltage gets applied to the accent input on all steps. When you turn the pot up.. more voltage gets applied to steps that have 'accent' selected.

Make sense?
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marvkaye
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 18, 2012 5:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

bananeurysm wrote:
You can think of the accent as a VC input for amplitude.. offset from 0.

So by default, the thing will make no sound. If you're feeding it a constant voltage - it will sound when triggered, at an amplitude directly related to the accent voltage.

I should look at the 808 schematics, but I assume the 'accent' pot is a voltage divider between the power supply and the steps. By default (or with the pot at 0), some voltage gets applied to the accent input on all steps. When you turn the pot up.. more voltage gets applied to steps that have 'accent' selected.

Make sense?


Thanks, bananeurysm, makes sense. However, it appears that the only pots that are called for are freq, tone, decay & level. It sounds like the base voltage for accent should come from the level pot, or at least be related to it. I don't have a problem adding another pot specifically for accent, but not if it's already covered. I'm going to have a look at the schematics as well, but suspect that's going to engender some new questions. Anyway, I'm glad we're talking about this and appreciate the help.

<marv>
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 18, 2012 5:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

marvkaye wrote:
...It sounds like the base voltage for accent should come from the level pot, or at least be related to it.

That makes sense to me. I've read other threads discussing the Accent input and I never really understood how that was supposed to work. But this does.

I haven't looked at the schematics (not very good with them actually), but it seems like the level knob should set the base level and then an additional application of voltage to an Accent input would temporarily increase the level. That way the CV of a sequencer's steps could modulate the accent.

However, IIRC, in the original the accent was a global level and at the step level you could only turn it on and off. So in that configuration, the Level knob would set overall volume and the Accent knob would set the amount of additional volume on any accented note...which makes it sound like a gate was applied to the Accent input and the Accent knob was setting the voltage of the gate. hmmm.....

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marvkaye
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 18, 2012 6:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

The complete TR808 schematic is pretty much over my head, although it looks to me like the Level pot is setup to adjust AC only (I'd have thought that would be a log taper, not linear... shows you what I know hmmm..... ) Anyway, way back on another page of the schematic it does show that the Accent pot is a voltage divider from +5 to +15, and while I'm at a total loss to suggest what spits out of the circuitry it controls and winds up being the Accent signal, I suspect it's some range of positive voltage that is proportional to what is set on that pot. Also, since the Accent contributes to everything in the TR808, it looks like a separate pot for it in our BD application is most likely in order. All that being said, I guess it makes sense to use it as the base voltage for a CV input to the Accent jack so now we need to determine the proper range of voltages for it so it doesn't get overdriven. Or maybe not??? seriously, i just don't get it seriously, i just don't get it seriously, i just don't get it

<marv>
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 20, 2012 5:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

marvkaye wrote:
All that being said, I guess it makes sense to use it as the base voltage for a CV input to the Accent jack so now we need to determine the proper range of voltages for it so it doesn't get overdriven. Or maybe not??? seriously, i just don't get it seriously, i just don't get it seriously, i just don't get it

<marv>


Accent voltage is between 4 and 14v, as far as I can tell from the service manual. On my setup, turning up the voltage resistor pot just means less of a difference between an accented step and a normal step, which is as I'd expect.
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bananeurysm
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 20, 2012 6:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

It doesn't really make sense to put an accent pot on the pcb as there is already a volume pot. It makes more sense to me to consider using a sequencer row for accent controls. Or you could always just feed it an attenuated LFO or something.

The way it works on the 808/606/707 is as a global volume offset applied on specific steps. So you could make your downbeats louder for example. Personally I find it most useful for programming hats. Throwing in accents here and there makes them nice and dynamic. smile If you have a bunch of drum modules, you could certainly mult out from a CV sequencer row and do global accents that way.

I believe the 909 has per voice accent controls. You could simulate that with a step sequencer if you wanted.. you'd just need to dedicate a CV row to every drum sound. Maybe overkill. smile

I don't usually use the accent on mine - I just tie it high and trigger the module with my drum machines.. or cmos clock divider. smile

When I get closer to having a modular drum machine I'll probably use it.
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marvkaye
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 20, 2012 8:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

I like the idea of using a sequencer row to control accented beats, it make a lot of sense to me. So do I need to add a non-inverting summing amp between the accent jack and accent input?? One of the inputs provide the base (non-accented) voltage that lets the unit have an output, the second input would come from the accent jack and add the CV from the sequencer. For stronger accent just turn up the CV.

After looking closely at the PCB it appears that the accent pad on the PCB goes directly to non-inverting input B of the TL072, so could it be as simple as connecting that to the common end of a pair of (10K?... 100K?) resistors in parallel, with 5V to the other end one of them as the base voltage, and the signal from the accent jack to the other one? That would be a pretty simple solution.

<marv>
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marvkaye
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 20, 2012 10:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

On another note... I noticed that this PCB calls for one 1N914 and two 1N4148 diodes. In all the discussions I've read, the consensus of contributors seems to be that these components are interchangeable. AAMOF, the Fairchild datasheet is the same one for both of these guys... So now I'm curious... why, on this board, are they both specified? hmmm.....

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 20, 2012 11:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

marvkaye wrote:
On another note... I noticed that this PCB calls for one 1N914 and two 1N4148 diodes... So now I'm curious... why, on this board, are they both specified?


Numerology?
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bananeurysm
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 21, 2012 4:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Not numerology, just oversight. The original roland schematic calls for a 1N4148 diode, and I mimicked that exactly, Eric Archer's 'trigger glue' calls for a 1N914 diode, and I mimicked that exactly.

If I do another rev, maybe I'll make them both the same. I know folks have built it with 2 1N4148s.

marvkaye I would post the schematic, but I'm not sure if it would infringe on any patents - as it's basically redrawn from the service manual. It is readily available/easy to find on the web though. Do share any developments/modifications you might make! thumbs up
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 21, 2012 7:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

got if fast thanks!
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reve
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 04, 2012 1:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

EDIT: nevermind. But I can verify that the original transistors work without other component changes... at least for the tone generator. I've got something hosed in the output buffer.

EDIT OF EDITED EDIT: Again, nevermind. Bad T5. What the hell? I've never had a bad transistor.

In summary, SOUNDS TOTES AWESOME.

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 05, 2012 11:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

So... was there a consensus on accent wiring for those of us forsaking the accent input or normalling a jack? I saw people suggest voltage dividers, etc.
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 12, 2012 12:09 am    Post subject: clicking? Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

My 808 is working but is clicking at every time it is triggered anyone else having this problem? I've double checked my wiring hmmm.....
Also my tone pot doesn't seem to do anything, what is it supposed to sound like as I change the tone pot?
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 12, 2012 9:03 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

The tone pot will add what you may be hearing as a click? You should just get a smooth kick with no sound on the high end with the tone knob all the way down. Maybe check the wiring 1 more time on your tone pot.
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 14, 2012 11:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Any PCBs left? Or failing that, anyone have a spare?
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 15, 2012 5:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Anyone done a panel design for this? Clarke68?
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mckenic
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 24, 2012 6:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Im sorry to be a PITA but Im hoping some of you good folks that have your 808 PCB running might help a fella out please?

I'm not getting any sound - I had to make some substitutions -

5.9K - I used - 5.6k.
1N914 - I used 1N4148 for the 3 diodes.
TL072IP - I used - TL072CN (KFL838).

In the pic below (for the accent, trig & out) is pad 2 indicated, the ground and pad one goes to the signal of the jack please?

On the opamp - Im getting 11.9v on pin4 and -11.9 on pin8 but nothing else on any other pins.



I have + power pin going to +12v, the Ground to ground and the - power pin going to -12v on a ribbon cable going to my Doepfer DIY psu. Reading +12v at the + power point on the PCB and -11.9v at the - point on the PCB.

Using a Doepfer A-145 square into uStep. uStep set to 8 steps with output A being triggered on every step and output B triggered on every 2nd step. uStep A is going to Trig In and B to Acc.

I wonder please if anyone might have some points I could probe and what I should be getting please?

Thank you Wigglers for any help - it will be GREATLY appreciated... sorry for being a PITA!

Dave

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jumunius
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 25, 2012 1:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

mckenic wrote:
On the opamp - Im getting 11.9v on pin4 and -11.9 on pin8 but nothing else on any other pins.


That seems backwards. Pinout for TL072 is VCC+ on pin8 and VCC- on pin4.

Note that if indeed you have the power wired backwards, you may have fried your IC and/or transistors.
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jumunius
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 25, 2012 9:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

As an afterthought, if you reverse your multimeter probes, you will get voltage readings with +/- values flipped. The one time I did this and didn't realize what I'd done, I remounted my power header in reverse and plugged it back in before thinking through what might have happened. d'oh! I fried at least one IC, maybe more (haven't been back to troubleshoot further since I don't have replacement chips on hand).

So in case it needs being said, don't be rash when messing with polarity. Don't reverse polarity of your power connector unless you really know that's the issue. In fact, it might be safest to do some spot checking (check that your TL072 is mounted in the right direction, etc) before even powering on again.
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mckenic
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 25, 2012 9:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Thank you VERY, VERY much jumunius!

I'm going to do some troubleshooting this afternoon - as you said, double checking polarity (THINK Im ok but never the less!), the mounting of the power connection, the diodes, the TL072 and after all that switch the ground/signal on my jacks just to check!

Thank you very much for your ideas! REALLY very much appreciated! I will of course post back in a bit! thumbs up

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 25, 2012 9:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Please dont laugh... on 2nd thoughts do if you want I dont mind as - ITS WORKING! Woo Hoo!

Friggin had my pots wired backwards - I feel like an idiot!!! very frustrating very frustrating very frustrating

But the GREAT thing is I didnt fry anything or do anything silly It's peanut butter jelly time!
There are a few loose connections as when I jiggle pots I get ground hum and drop-outs but that is sortable.

Its a little low volume wise, is that related to the 'accent'? Can I just run 2 wires from level or the 12v to the 'accent' as currently (sic) I wont be using accent?

I used the Factory decay 47k as that is what I had to hand - how low can I go here anyone know please? I'd love to have the choice to have it as is now but also to go squealing crazy self-oscillation...

Anyway - thank you all for putting up with me! Im bloomin THRILLED!

WOO HOO!

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jumunius
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 25, 2012 10:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

mckenic wrote:
Please dont laugh... on 2nd thoughts do if you want I dont mind as - ITS WORKING! Woo Hoo!

Friggin had my pots wired backwards - I feel like an idiot!!! very frustrating very frustrating very frustrating

But the GREAT thing is I didnt fry anything or do anything silly It's peanut butter jelly time!
There are a few loose connections as when I jiggle pots I get ground hum and drop-outs but that is sortable.

Its a little low volume wise, is that related to the 'accent'?


Speaking as someone who is generally incapable of wiring pots forwards, you have nothing to be embarrassed about. Glad to hear nothing got fried -- precisely the reason I wanted to emphasize not to reverse any polarities yet! thumbs up

As for the volume issue, I'd recommend fixing all your loose wiring before determining it's too quiet.
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 25, 2012 10:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

I don't have mine paneled, but have checked it out with 12v supply running the +12 over to the accent in as an offset to keep it up and it worked fine. I guess what might work would be running the voltage over to the normalling post on the accent jack (on a switched mono jack), so if you wanted to use something besides the +12 it would shut off on the accent in as soon as something was plugged into that jack.
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mckenic
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 25, 2012 10:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

... and I have Erthenvar 'switching' jacks that I had right EXCEPT for the output - sending to the switch pin instead of to the signal pin! very frustrating

Thanks jumunius! thumbs up

Will tidy this up and ask questions then! Thanks mate!

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mckenic
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 25, 2012 10:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Thank you bsmith!

Will try that and report back!
thumbs up

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tony d
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 25, 2012 11:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

bsmith wrote:
I guess what might work would be running the voltage over to the normalling post on the accent jack (on a switched mono jack), so if you wanted to use something besides the +12 it would shut off on the accent in as soon as something was plugged into that jack.


This is how i have mine wired.The only problem is you will only get sound when you have some sort of voltage present along with the trigger so if you do it this way just keep that in mind.

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 30, 2012 2:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

My PCB arrived!! w00t w00t
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mckenic
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 30, 2012 8:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Just a quick post back to say THANK YOU!

Tying the 12v to accent works wonderfully and Im 100% up and running Woo Hoo! Im still new enough to diy and have enough gaps in my knowledge to be surprised and delighted when things work out so well!

Thanks for all the help and patience thumbs up

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PostPosted: Thu May 03, 2012 7:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Woo Hoo!

I learned SO MUCH doing this project - thank you very, very much bananeurysm!!! thumbs up Hug

I learned, pots are awkward to put on a panel! smile I have some ABS so decided to do a panel. Its JUST that little bit skinny but its ok as the kick will live to the left of my case where there is a little 1hp or so gap - this will allow for the pots which had to be mounted sideways smile

Lots of little silly things but MAN! Im a happy bunny! Woo Hoo!


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tony d
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PostPosted: Thu May 03, 2012 7:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Awesome man !

I've definitely been enjoying mine.As i said before i don't have an 808 to make any comparisons (nor do i care) but i really think it sounds great.

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mckenic
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PostPosted: Thu May 03, 2012 8:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

thumbs up

Bring on the next one! Cowbell? Rimshot? Claves?

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bananeurysm
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PostPosted: Wed May 09, 2012 6:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Rad! Just checked in after not watching for forum for awhile. Awesome to see so many thumpin drums out there!

Either the 909BD or the Simmons SDS3 (general purpose drum) will be next. I don't have an eta - but I'm working on em both. Troubleshooting my 909BD pcb, and prototyping the SDS3.

808 Clap, rimshot, and 606 hats are all on my wishlist. But I'm getting WAY ahead of myself there. smile

Also reve - I don't know if anyone really replied to your questions about 'accent' wiring consensus. But afaik most people have been building these with the accent simply tied high. You can always remove the wire if you wanna sequence volume later.

<edit> Also I do still have some PCBs left. Shoot me a PM if you still want some.
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Emalot
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PostPosted: Sat May 19, 2012 11:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

I just finished my 808 Kick drum module, and it's a really nice module!!!
I have TR606 and i love it but Kick is really soft on this. Now i have a BIG 808 kick and the mix of both is nanners nanners
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bananeurysm
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PostPosted: Sat May 19, 2012 3:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Rad! Glad it's workin out! That was exactly my setup when I first designed the board. (606 + 808kick module).. I've since gotten an 808 - but I'm thinking about going back to the 606 + 808kick for gigging. . .
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PostPosted: Sat May 19, 2012 3:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

606 + 808 kick, check! (TipTop's; I haven't built the board I got from you yet.) I always preferred the 606's hats to the 808s, although the 808 has a much better ride.

I've got a DrumDokta in there too, tons of fun with percussion in that little combo.

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PostPosted: Sat May 19, 2012 3:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Do you got pcbs avaible?

Sds3 clone would be awesome!

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PostPosted: Mon May 21, 2012 9:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

I am thinking about making this panel -



Would anyone else be interested if i do?

One thing im not sure of though -

The design is for myself - i am not sure about using the word 'Roland' on panels for other people?

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PostPosted: Mon May 21, 2012 9:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Hell Yes!
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PostPosted: Tue May 22, 2012 10:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

julian wrote:

The design is for myself - i am not sure about using the word 'Roland' on panels for other people?


How about "Fauxland"? smile

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PostPosted: Tue May 22, 2012 12:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

julian wrote:
I am thinking about making this panel -



Would anyone else be interested if i do?

One thing im not sure of though -

The design is for myself - i am not sure about using the word 'Roland' on panels for other people?


Count me in for one if you make it (with or without Roland on it). Looks great!
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PostPosted: Tue May 22, 2012 2:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

julian wrote:
I am thinking about making this panel -



Would anyone else be interested if i do?

One thing im not sure of though -

The design is for myself - i am not sure about using the word 'Roland' on panels for other people?


I want one!! I like the roland text a lot. It's their engineering - I like propping that up. I wonder if you can get the font even closer.. or I'd be happy to supply high res photos of the lettering on my 808.. maybe you could modify/vectorize/do whatever you graphic people do to it?
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PostPosted: Tue May 22, 2012 3:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

bananeurysm wrote:


I want one!! I like the roland text a lot. It's their engineering - I like propping that up. I wonder if you can get the font even closer.. or I'd be happy to supply high res photos of the lettering on my 808.. maybe you could modify/vectorize/do whatever you graphic people do to it?



The 'roland' at the bottom is the same font as the words on the dials etc (trigger, freq etc) and then the 'tr808' at the top is another font.

Its possible to change the 'roland' but then there would be a mix of three fonts, and i think two is the maximum on a small panel. I was even unsure about using two.

I think the panels would be GBP 20 each. I know that seems a lot compared to the metal photo offerings, but for this one, we're talking rotary engraving, on matt black anodised, with two sepperate infill colours - nothing like that is possible with metal photo.


If people are keen, rather than clutter up the thread, just send me a simple PM and ill update the list below -

Euro panels as per screen grab @ GBP 20 ea -

Julian 4-off
Juxwl 1-off
amalthea 1-off
trainspotter 1-off (& 1-off sequential switch)
mono-poly 1-off
mOBiTh 2-off
samih 1-off

5u pannels (basic @ GBP 20, fancier @ GBP 26)

thebot 1-off (either)
Paradigm X 1-off (fancier)
bananeurysm 1-off (fancier)

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Last edited by julian on Thu Jun 07, 2012 9:28 am; edited 7 times in total
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PostPosted: Thu May 24, 2012 5:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

I think ppl should post in this thread if they want to order panels from you.. yes it clutters the thread - but it also makes it more visible - and thus more likely to be found by interested parties. I'm stoked on what you're offering!
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PostPosted: Thu May 24, 2012 5:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Ive just been messing about with a 5u version.

To make a 5u panel with minimal line work, rather like the Oakley modules, would be cheap - no more expensive than the euro version above.

This is because, although theres a load more metal involved, and it would take longer to mill, the 5u panels normaly just use single stroke fonts, and normally just white infill. In short, the metal and the milling would be more expensive, but the engraving would be cheaper, so, at the end of it all, itlld equal the euro panel, with its fancier engravng and adiitional line work / colours.


So, if there's interest, i can do a 'minimalist' Oakley style 5u panel, or, if people would like, i can do a fancier 5u panel, more like the euro panel - but then a) itlld cost a little more, and b) it would stand out more in the traditional all black/white motm style systems (which some people may like, and others may not like?)

This is an example of an Oakley VCO, to give an idea of the 'minimalist' styling (which conforms to MOTM component placing)




Or i can do the same but with fancier text, and colours?

Im not making the 5u panels for myself, so if people want them, ill make them however people decide they want them : )

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PostPosted: Fri May 25, 2012 6:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Ill try and do some screen grabs later, however -

5u panel in Oakley 'minimalist' style - GBP 20
5u panel in mutistroke, with colour and line work (like the euro pane screen grab) - GBP 26

Im happy to make the 'minimalist' one in 1-offs as i can run it with other similar panels.

Im happy to make the euro panel in whatever numbers, so long as i make them on the same run as when i make my own panels (so it doesnt matter how many people want them, as ill be doinig my own anyhow - but the others need to be done at the same time, else they would work out a fair amount more expensive)

Im happy to make the more complex 5u panels, but, the GBP 26 price would require a few orders, as its not realy worth grinding the custom cutters that would be required for a 1-off (or at least not at the GBP 26 price)

Ill try and get some screen grabs of all of them, and update the thread.

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PostPosted: Fri May 25, 2012 3:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

I'll have one of the 5U panels Julian - whichever, I'm easy. If there's numbers needed for the more complicated one I'll spring for that, if not happy with the simpler one.

Cheers!
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PostPosted: Sat May 26, 2012 2:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

julian wrote:
I am thinking about making this panel -



Would anyone else be interested if i do?

One thing im not sure of though -

The design is for myself - i am not sure about using the word 'Roland' on panels for other people?


Put me down for one euro panel, please!

And FWIW, I'm totally fine with having Roland on there.

SlayerBadger!
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PostPosted: Sat May 26, 2012 3:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

thebot wrote:
I'll have one of the 5U panels Julian - whichever, I'm easy. If there's numbers needed for the more complicated one I'll spring for that, if not happy with the simpler one.

Cheers!


+1

Ive got a different 808 pcb tho, need to check what functions it has! Its a pretty simple circuit afaict and should be able to make it fit the panel.
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PostPosted: Sat May 26, 2012 4:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Paradigm X wrote:


Ive got a different 808 pcb tho, need to check what functions it has! Its a pretty simple circuit afaict and should be able to make it fit the panel.



Do you want either 5u panel, or a specific one?

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PostPosted: Sat May 26, 2012 4:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

I'd like a panel
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PostPosted: Sat May 26, 2012 4:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

mono-poly wrote:
I'd like a panel


there's three to choose from - which shall i put you down for?

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PostPosted: Sat May 26, 2012 6:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

i was actually (quickly due to time) agreeing with thebot- prefer the 5u £26 bells and whistles version but either would be fine, depending on numbers, what others are doing too.

Cheers.

would making some, say, oakley panels at the same time be helpful, in terms of cost ? i need a few making up anyway...

cheers
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PostPosted: Mon May 28, 2012 6:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Paradigm X wrote:
i was actually (quickly due to time) agreeing with thebot- prefer the 5u £26 bells and whistles version but either would be fine, depending on numbers, what others are doing too.

Cheers.

would making some, say, oakley panels at the same time be helpful, in terms of cost ? i need a few making up anyway...

cheers


the 5u panel with the colour would use different cutters to the normal 5u panels, so, whilst they could both be cut from the same physical sheet of metal, the tools would be different, and the engraving would need to be done on different passes, so no real advantage im afraid.

the numbers for the 808 panels are building slowly though, so id like to think you will be able to get your colour panel anyhow : )

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PostPosted: Mon May 28, 2012 6:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

julian wrote:
mono-poly wrote:
I'd like a panel


there's three to choose from - which shall i put you down for?



Euro!

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PostPosted: Mon May 28, 2012 8:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

julian wrote:
Paradigm X wrote:
i was actually (quickly due to time) agreeing with thebot- prefer the 5u £26 bells and whistles version but either would be fine, depending on numbers, what others are doing too.

Cheers.

would making some, say, oakley panels at the same time be helpful, in terms of cost ? i need a few making up anyway...

cheers


the 5u panel with the colour would use different cutters to the normal 5u panels, so, whilst they could both be cut from the same physical sheet of metal, the tools would be different, and the engraving would need to be done on different passes, so no real advantage im afraid.

the numbers for the 808 panels are building slowly though, so id like to think you will be able to get your colour panel anyhow : )


OK cool. Im happy with the plain one tho, is it only me and thebot in for an 808 one so far?

I need about 4 oakley 2u ones doing FWIW. Cheers

edit:

As a noob at all this im only now realising what an important part the panel is... ive got a load of pcbs lying around i cant really do anything with until i get some panels sorted. Need to think about this in advance a bit more methinks!

cheers
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PostPosted: Mon May 28, 2012 10:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

I really preferred the 808 BD panel that Bleeps designed... what happened to that?

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PostPosted: Mon May 28, 2012 10:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

ringstone wrote:
I really preferred the 808 BD panel that Bleeps designed... what happened to that?

Cheers
Blair


Dunno.. nuffink to do with me ; )

(searching using keyword "808" author "Bleeps" returns 0 hits)

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PostPosted: Mon May 28, 2012 10:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

julian wrote:
ringstone wrote:
I really preferred the 808 BD panel that Bleeps designed... what happened to that?

Cheers
Blair


Dunno.. nuffink to do with me ; )

(searching using keyword "808" author "Bleeps" returns 0 hits)


Um... it's in the thread you have linked to in your sig? You asked whether the artwork was in the right format...

Cheers
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PostPosted: Mon May 28, 2012 11:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Ahh... Ok!

(sometimes i dont see the wood for the trees)

I think, at some point, ill be cutting them also, so, if you want one of those, keep an eye on the other thread too.

They will work out a bit cheaper than the black ones, but you may have to wait longer for them (due to the run size there).

Id have mentioned it here, had i have realised!

(note: bleeps has not supplied the vector art for them just yet - but then i havent realy asked hard for anything yet either!)

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PostPosted: Mon May 28, 2012 7:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

No worries, I was just confused by the fact there were two designs. Bleeps has cleared this up in the other thread anyway w00t

Cheers
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PostPosted: Tue May 29, 2012 9:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Julian I'm in for two panels please. With Roland is fine by me!

Cheers

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PostPosted: Thu May 31, 2012 1:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

hello,
Has someone made a MODS to have a longer decay??
I guess I need to change the pot of decay (for now I have a 500K Lin) but there maybe other things to do?
thank you

EDIT SORRY, i just read in http://www.anestheticaudio.com/?page_id=153 the mods to have more Decay! THX

REEDIT:
I change the 42,2K Resistor and put a 39K and the result is not very well, the signal is continious when the Decay Pots is more than 3/4. sad banana
Which value do you use to have more decay than with 42,2K??
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PostPosted: Thu May 31, 2012 1:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

I'd probably like to get a pair of these, but wondered if anyone would be kind enough to do a more comprehensive audio demo. You know, tweak some knobs and stuff???

Thanks
Gary

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PostPosted: Thu May 31, 2012 9:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Emalot wrote:
hello,
Has someone made a MODS to have a longer decay??
I guess I need to change the pot of decay (for now I have a 500K Lin) but there maybe other things to do?
thank you

EDIT SORRY, i just read in http://www.anestheticaudio.com/?page_id=153 the mods to have more Decay! THX

REEDIT:
I change the 42,2K Resistor and put a 39K and the result is not very well, the signal is continious when the Decay Pots is more than 3/4. sad banana
Which value do you use to have more decay than with 42,2K??


Perhaps replace with a 50k trimmer so you can fine-tune the value? It's pretty sensitive...

Cheers
Blair

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PostPosted: Fri Jun 01, 2012 9:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

just a brief note -

as some of you know, we are in the process of moving location, and do not currently have as good access to the machinery as id like.

i have some time on the cutting machines next week, and may cut the black euro 808 panels then.

so, if anyone wanting them, and has not got their name on the list a few posts up, then speak now, or forever...

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PostPosted: Fri Jun 01, 2012 9:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

since it looks liek only me and thebot are after a 5u one, can we go basic 'oakley' style and get a few more oakley panels done at the same time if thats cheaper/easier/cheaper and easier?

That would be awesome if no one else minds

Noice juan.
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 01, 2012 9:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Paradigm X wrote:
since it looks liek only me and thebot are after a 5u one, can we go basic 'oakley' style and get a few more oakley panels done at the same time if thats cheaper/easier/cheaper and easier?

That would be awesome if no one else minds

Noice juan.


I'm building a couple 5u ones, if you want in on a panel.

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PostPosted: Fri Jun 01, 2012 10:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Paradigm X wrote:
since it looks liek only me and thebot are after a 5u one, can we go basic 'oakley' style and get a few more oakley panels done at the same time if thats cheaper/easier/cheaper and easier?

That would be awesome if no one else minds

Noice juan.


I think bananeurysm is after one as well, so ive added his name to the list.

I was probably going to leave the 5u for a couple more weeks, and see what happened - if three of you want the colour 5u panels, and youre happy to wait a little while, ill cut them when i have a moment.

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PostPosted: Fri Jun 01, 2012 10:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

boothnavy wrote:

I'm building a couple 5u ones, if you want in on a panel.


Was that that you wanted panels, or that you were offering?

(i cant make out either way!)

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 03, 2012 12:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Just in case you were just sitting there wondering what this kick sounds like through a distortion pedal, well here you go:

[s]http://soundcloud.com/planespace/808-kick-clone-distortion[/s]

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 03, 2012 11:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

julian wrote:
boothnavy wrote:

I'm building a couple 5u ones, if you want in on a panel.


Was that that you wanted panels, or that you were offering?

(i cant make out either way!)


I was sayIng I was going to be designing and making a couPle. Wasn't trying to take orders away from you. I didn't see that you had offered to make some. Sorry for that.

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 04, 2012 11:13 am    Post subject: issue with 606 triggers + anesthetic audio 808 kick Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Bananeurysm can confirm that I got my kick drum up and rocking as he was at my show here in Portland Saturday nite cool

But there is a weird issue with my build maybe someone on the forum knowledgeable about 606 can help out.

My TR606 triggers don't seem to trigger the 808 kick drum. For others this has not been the case. I'm trying to figure out if it's an issue with my build or my 606. I still need to measure the outgoing trigger voltages. I am thinking it's possible the voltage is not high enough, or maybe there's a weird grounding issue between the two. Triggering 808 kick drum from my Frostwave sequencer sounds great without any problems.

Any help/advice appreciated!

Strategy

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 04, 2012 11:50 am    Post subject: Re: issue with 606 triggers + anesthetic audio 808 kick Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

strategy wrote:
Bananeurysm can confirm that I got my kick drum up and rocking as he was at my show here in Portland Saturday nite cool

But there is a weird issue with my build maybe someone on the forum knowledgeable about 606 can help out.

My TR606 triggers don't seem to trigger the 808 kick drum. For others this has not been the case. I'm trying to figure out if it's an issue with my build or my 606. I still need to measure the outgoing trigger voltages. I am thinking it's possible the voltage is not high enough, or maybe there's a weird grounding issue between the two. Triggering 808 kick drum from my Frostwave sequencer sounds great without any problems.

Any help/advice appreciated!

Strategy


Do the 606 triggers work to trigger other devices? My 606 would not trigger an HC-2 with one power supply, but works fine with a different supply. hmmm..... Everything else works fine with both power supplies, only triggers were affected with the one.

I haven't got my 808 up an running yet, so I can't confirm with it, but maybe try different pwr supplies. 606 puts out strong trigger voltages (i think 15v) so I doubt the voltage isn't high enough.
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 07, 2012 5:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Are the schematics for this pcb available to look at?
I received the pcb and waiting for the components. Would love to check out the schematics for learning purposes.

thank you!
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 08, 2012 7:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

my vote goes for a classy 808 or 909 rimshot with nice modulation possibilities!
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 08, 2012 5:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

so got mine kickin but having some issues with decay and level pots, perhaps I wired them up wrong?

the center of the decay pot is actually the longest decay and either extreme brings to me to a very short decay

the level pot has its loudest point almost all the way fully clockwise, but then as I reach the extreme it cuts out

here is an audio demo, I start messing with the decay and level after the halfway mark http://dl.dropbox.com/u/11904126/tweaking-1.wav

dunno what to look for, anyone have suggestions? already replaced the level + decay pots, might try wiring up test leads for the decay resistor and trying some values out to see what happens

currently testing on 9v batteries

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 10, 2012 4:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Finally got to work on the PCB. It is populated with components. Next, I'll think of a way to interface the pots and jacks. I plan on building a mounting frame for the pcb, made from brass. But before, I'll test it out make sure it works. Going to to make it look good!

Here is some pcb porn...

oh, btw. This is a challenge to solder, not for a beginner.










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PostPosted: Sun Jun 10, 2012 9:09 pm    Post subject: Re: issue with 606 triggers + anesthetic audio 808 kick Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Juxwl wrote:


Do the 606 triggers work to trigger other devices? My 606 would not trigger an HC-2 with one power supply, but works fine with a different supply. hmmm..... Everything else works fine with both power supplies, only triggers were affected with the one.

I haven't got my 808 up an running yet, so I can't confirm with it, but maybe try different pwr supplies. 606 puts out strong trigger voltages (i think 15v) so I doubt the voltage isn't high enough.


the 606 triggers work with many other devices without any problem. I measured the pulses they are only coming out at 3-4V!!! I'm shocked. for the 606, I'm using a 9V power supply at 300mA. i guess I need to use something with more current to get a bigger trigger output?? Or else get a repair.

Strategy

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PostPosted: Sat Jun 23, 2012 10:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

It looks like http://www.anestheticaudio.com/ has been hacked.
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 25, 2012 2:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Here is some of my progress building the housing for the 808 pcb. It is all made from brass. Still need to work on the faceplate, pcb mount and power connector mount. The faceplate will hide the screws that mount the pots and jacks, so it is all flush and clean looking. The face will be made from copper.




[/img]
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 25, 2012 7:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

heavy duty!!! hihi
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 25, 2012 7:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

obscurerobot wrote:
It looks like http://www.anestheticaudio.com/ has been hacked.


indeed : (

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 25, 2012 12:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

HEYYY! just got my pcb! anybody used BC546B instead of A?
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 26, 2012 10:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

julian wrote:
just a brief note -

as some of you know, we are in the process of moving location, and do not currently have as good access to the machinery as id like.

i have some time on the cutting machines next week, and may cut the black euro 808 panels then.

so, if anyone wanting them, and has not got their name on the list a few posts up, then speak now, or forever...


How are things coming along, Julian? hyper
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 26, 2012 10:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

julian wrote:
just a brief note -

as some of you know, we are in the process of moving location, and do not currently have as good access to the machinery as id like.

i have some time on the cutting machines next week, and may cut the black euro 808 panels then.

so, if anyone wanting them, and has not got their name on the list a few posts up, then speak now, or forever...


Oops... just noticed this... and that Im not on the list.
If its closed cool but if you have space... me please!

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 26, 2012 11:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

my boards are basically stuffed - give me all of your panels hihi
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 29, 2012 7:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Im sorry for the lack of communication.

We've been moving house and things have slipped a bit.

The 808 panels are top of my list of things to do, but, right at the moment, the larger cutting machine is still in the transport trailer, as i dont currently have a way of lifting it!

This is only a small order, and, as soon as i can move the machine the last few feet (its come 250 miles so far!) i should be able to cut the metal.

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PostPosted: Fri Jun 29, 2012 8:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

got my PCB, thanks

and robot909, those pictures of the stuffed board are going to be helpful, thanks as well
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robot909
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 01, 2012 11:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

No problem rowman, glad to help.

Wanted to post another photo of my progress of the build.

Temporarily wired up the pots, jacks and the led indicator.

All seems to work. The two "accent" connections on the pcs have been tricky but works once I tapped the +voltage from power into one of the accent connections (right above the "acc" silkscreen), it worked, but watch out for the other connection as it will short circuit when +v is applied.

Can we PLEASE see schematics for this PCB? it would be easier to troubleshoot.

... Next on the list is soldering up a permanent mount for the pcb and power connector, wiring and faceplate....

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 02, 2012 2:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Sweet robot909! Looks good!

Yeah my site was hacked by kids. I don't have time to restore it right now - but in the meantime here is my schematic for the board if it's useful.

And yeah - Strategy's show the other week was killer! cool
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 02, 2012 5:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

cheers dude - much appreciated cool
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 05, 2012 5:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Hi!
Is there any PCB left? I would like one!
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 08, 2012 5:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Still working on my build, but today some robots showed up and started to munch on the wires... They know that the 808 BD make some real good high quality kick, and that BD is smoked and seasoned just the way they like it.

Almost there.


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 10, 2012 4:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Guys

In the middle of the pcb just to the right of the 0.1uF pair of caps are three resistors: 1x10k and 2x100k

The labelling is not completely obvious - is the 10k top left and 100ks to the right and bottom?

I haven't got them with me so can't check against the schem, but thought i'd ask while i think of it!

Cheers

Matt

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PostPosted: Sat Jul 14, 2012 12:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Here is the body of the 808 kick drum module. Made from brass. The face is copper. Learned a lot on this build. Brass is great to work with. Initially I was inspired by the BERGFOTRON
http://hem.bredband.net/bersyn/mek.htm



Here is the finished module! Guinness ftw!

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PostPosted: Sat Jul 14, 2012 4:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

heavy duty!
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 01, 2012 11:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

robot909 wrote:
Here is the body of the 808 kick drum module. Made from brass. The face is copper. Learned a lot on this build. Brass is great to work with. Initially I was inspired by the BERGFOTRON
http://hem.bredband.net/bersyn/mek.htm



Here is the finished module! Guinness ftw!



That is some beautiful work. Congrats!

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robot909
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 02, 2012 1:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

razz Thank You!!!! razz
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Barcode
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 06, 2012 12:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

I just finished put mine together and it sounds great! It's nice having an 808 kick for under $50.

Now I'm patiently waiting for a snare pcb. wink
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 11, 2012 10:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

I wouldnt put the Roland logo on it, i would use a proper 808 font if i where you.
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 12, 2012 7:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Thanks Jesse,

Nice deep purple pcbs will fit almost everywhere;)
even in my mailbox.

thumbs up
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 12, 2012 7:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

This would go great with hex's 909 kick! Are any boards left for sale?
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 12, 2012 8:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

haricots wrote:
This would go great with hex's 909 kick! Are any boards left for sale?


It most certainly would applause

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 14, 2012 1:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

haricots wrote:
Are any boards left for sale?


+1
I've had enough waiting for my mb-808

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bananeurysm
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 14, 2012 4:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

I have another lot of pcbs on hand now - so no danger of running out anytime soon! Shoot me a pm or email if you want one!
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 14, 2012 6:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Are you still looking at doing some of the other 808 voices? This is a great little PCB, I'd certainly buy any others you do.

Cheers
Blair

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 14, 2012 8:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

thanks, i just paid for 1 PCB.

can anyone share a good FPE file with me? id like to make a panel for this eventually.
thanks!
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 29, 2012 5:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Hi, do you still have some pcbs left?
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 29, 2012 5:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

I would like a pcb if you still got...
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 29, 2012 6:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Anyone have a problem with low output volume? I built two identical ones and they both seem to have low output.
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 29, 2012 9:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

boothnavy wrote:
Anyone have a problem with low output volume? I built two identical ones and they both seem to have low output.


How low ? I've noticed the 2 i've built are a little lower than typical synth outputs.I usually have to put the gain on my mixer to unity to get it up to level with my synth.

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 29, 2012 3:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

tony d wrote:

How low ? I've noticed the 2 i've built are a little lower than typical synth outputs.I usually have to put the gain on my mixer to unity to get it up to level with my synth.


Yeh I guess that's about right. I was just using a guitar amp. Seemed lower than my modular.

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 29, 2012 10:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

just paid for another PCB. thanks!
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 03, 2012 11:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

ok, i just built up my first 808 PCB and im getting no sound out of it at all.
any advice where i should check first for troubleshooting?

looking at the pads on the PCBs for the pots, it should be 1 - 2 - 3 right?
and the jacks should be 1 - signal & 2 - ground?

i think i have those all wired correctly.
do i need to tie the accent to +12v? or can i just patch in an offset to it?

thanks for your help.
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 03, 2012 11:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

asterisk wrote:
ok, i just built up my first 808 PCB and im getting no sound out of it at all.
any advice where i should check first for troubleshooting?

looking at the pads on the PCBs for the pots, it should be 1 - 2 - 3 right?
and the jacks should be 1 - signal & 2 - ground?

i think i have those all wired correctly.
do i need to tie the accent to +12v? or can i just patch in an offset to it?

thanks for your help.


Whether or not the board was laid out to have accent tied to +V, I am not sure, but, you definitely want to add a 100k pullup resistor if there is not one smile

That way, when you WANT to control the accent signal (and some voltage source is plugged in), it will respond to it, otherwise, it will simply tie to +V and work without anything plugged in.

You could of course also plug a pot into it wired as a voltage divider, and just set it like that from the panel...but, then you don't have the option of adding variation during a pattern playing via CV smile

Sometimes it is useful to use a CV/Gate sequencer, and use the gate to drive the kick, while varying the accent control along the sequence (per note) with the CV.

I hope it was clear there in all of my babbling: There must be a +V accent signal for the drum to make any sound.

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 04, 2012 10:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

ok so my problems arent just as simple as getting the accent straightened out.

as an experiment, i tied the accent input to +12v and removed the jack altogether and im still getting no sound.
so.....the whole accent thing is not the issue here.

any idea where to check the circuit next?

Dead Banana
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 04, 2012 11:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Admit it: We all need two 808 kick drum voices so we can do double kick heavy metal techno.
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 04, 2012 11:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

asterisk wrote:
ok so my problems arent just as simple as getting the accent straightened out.

as an experiment, i tied the accent input to +12v and removed the jack altogether and im still getting no sound.
so.....the whole accent thing is not the issue here.

any idea where to check the circuit next?

Dead Banana


Sorry, I cannot help you troubleshoot specifically right now...not that I do not want to -- just, no time! :( Getting ready for a semester of school in 2 days...

I would take a look at the 808 schematic and use an oscilloscope and/or your ears to probe around for the various components of the kick sound.

The fact that there is no sound at all makes me think that maybe it's a problem near the final output. Check around the final output amplifier, and trace backwards until you find where the signal disappears. Check the VCA transistors that drive the sounds. If it is not your output amplifier screwing up, it sounds like the main volume envelope may not be reaching the VCA/s (therefore never really turning the sound on)

Check for reversed electrolytic caps, perhaps, as these form many of the basic envelope generators in these x0x drums smile

If that sort of thing is over your head at the moment, I would suggest printing out a component placement diagram with all of the resistor values, and comparing it to your board. Check, check and check again for shorts and/or poor/missed solder joints!

Sorry I cannot be of more help right now. Good luck! smile

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 05, 2012 9:20 am    Post subject: 808 5U panel Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

julian

hello Julian,

not sure if you will be making the 5U panels for the 808, if you do, I would like to buy one.
Thanks,
Steven
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billieblaze
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 05, 2012 12:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

I'd love to get one of these 808 pcbs.. this is my first forum post, so now i can PM you..
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 07, 2012 9:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

I Pm'ed earlier this week about purchasing one of these boards, please check your inbox soon! This is fun!
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 08, 2012 5:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

If you have no sound

Check the components around the opamp

I beleive the circuit is basically just a conditioned trigger with a simple resonant filter which is 'pinged'

Check pin 1 and pin 7 of the opamp To see the oscilator - if it is present there check the output circuitry

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Luka
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 08, 2012 5:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

I noticed that this module has the decay mod inbuilt - i applied this mod on my mb808 bd and i am gettng weird behaviour. I was wondering if anyone who has built ths module could help me by checking whether the decay settings post 12oclock are usable?

I just get oscilllation - doesnt sound good and the drum sounds are phasing up and down in volume.

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asterisk
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 08, 2012 7:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

ill check the stuff around the opamp first. thats a good idea.

maybe i just have a bad opamp in there.

hopefully i will get a chance to troubleshoot it tonight....
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 09, 2012 12:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

i was digging a little about the phase issue and seems like it is normal - i might remove this mod

for those interested in how the circuit works (troubleshooting maybe) check these links

(robbin whittle -aka devilfish talking circuits and the phasing issue)
http://analogue-heaven.1065350.n5.nabble.com/TR-808-Bass-Drum-has-vari able-punch-amp-decay-td68912.html

(sound on sound - synth secrets)
http://www.soundonsound.com/sos/feb02/articles/synthsecrets0202.asp

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PostPosted: Sun Sep 09, 2012 3:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Luka wrote:
i was digging a little about the phase issue and seems like it is normal - i might remove this mod

for those interested in how the circuit works (troubleshooting maybe) check these links

(robbin whittle -aka devilfish talking circuits and the phasing issue)
http://analogue-heaven.1065350.n5.nabble.com/TR-808-Bass-Drum-has-vari able-punch-amp-decay-td68912.html

(sound on sound - synth secrets)
http://www.soundonsound.com/sos/feb02/articles/synthsecrets0202.asp


Yes, I noticed this when trying various mods with the 808 BD circuit. First, the tolerance is fairly fine in the feedback circuit, so if you want to extend decay, the values have to be tuned fairly carefully otherwise the circuit starts self-oscillating. And when the decay is extended, the behavior of the sound is somewhat erratic when another trigger is received when the sound is still decaying. This can even be heard to some extent on a stock TR-808 with max decay at faster tempos.

I used a switch so that "normal" or "extended" decay could be selected. Extended decay is still more than usable at slower tempos where the BD can decay fully before the next trigger is received - and normal mode gives more range for BD sounds with shorter decays.

Cheers
Blair

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Luka
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 09, 2012 3:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Cool thanks for backing that up blair

I think ill try keep the mod in but refine it a little - select a resistor value which adds a tad extra decay - just enough for decent booms at low tempo

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 17, 2012 11:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

I'm going to pm and inquire if these are on hand, I can't resist
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 17, 2012 6:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Hmmm, an 808 kick PCB could be interesting to get one's hands on... Wonder if any are still available ^_^
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 17, 2012 6:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

whitewulfe wrote:
Hmmm, an 808 kick PCB could be interesting to get one's hands on... Wonder if any are still available ^_^


I do believe he still has some...he's just not answering his PMs! haha!

I'm still waiting to trade PCBs with him MY ASS IS BLEEDING

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 17, 2012 7:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

hexinverter wrote:
I do believe he still has some...he's just not answering his PMs! haha!

I'm still waiting to trade PCBs with him MY ASS IS BLEEDING


Hmmm, we'll see. Gotta wait until next payday first, which thankfully is in a few days ^_^
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 17, 2012 8:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

i just got another 808 BD PCB from jesse.
send him some money and one will show up. haha!

he doesnt seem to post around here or answer any PMs ever. we are on our own. im still trying to get my first one to work.
but i figured ill build a second and if that works then itll be easy to troubleshoot the first one.....

cant wait to get this and hex's 909 working together!
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 18, 2012 4:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Hey guys - sorry I've been so silent around here - it's been a crazy month. I am generally a little quick via jmejia (at) anestheticaudio [dot] com, but I do answer pm's.

If you're waiting for a board or a message back from me - drop me a line and I'll make sure you weren't lost in the shuffle - but I think I'm all up to date now!

I still have boards and am happy to ship em.

Apart from this last month - I can usually get the the post office once a week/week.5 to ship.

And I do try to chime in on troubleshoots in the thread when I can! Asterisk did you get your board working? Often total non-working boards just have issues with the power wiring - I know that's a simple/dumb answer - but always good to doublecheck you have your batteries in series correctly or what have you!

And Hexinverter - the boards aren't modified for tying the accent - I've just been tying them anyway and losing the accent jack in the process for those type of applications - but you could certainly mod differently!
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asterisk
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 18, 2012 4:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

I haven't gotten my first one working yet. maybe it's power.
I need to get out the multimeter and check the power. it could be the IC.
if you tie the accent, you just run a jumper wire from +V to the accent input?
and do you have to wire anything into the accent ground pad?

it's possible that my pots might be wired backwards too, would that cause it not to work?

ok hopefully I can get one or both working soon.
I'm planning on making a dual 808 panel for eurorack. I'll share the FPD file here once I get things working and I'm ready to order my panel.
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 18, 2012 6:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

asterisk wrote:
I haven't gotten my first one working yet. maybe it's power.
I need to get out the multimeter and check the power. it could be the IC.
if you tie the accent, you just run a jumper wire from +V to the accent input?
and do you have to wire anything into the accent ground pad?

it's possible that my pots might be wired backwards too, would that cause it not to work?

ok hopefully I can get one or both working soon.
I'm planning on making a dual 808 panel for eurorack. I'll share the FPD file here once I get things working and I'm ready to order my panel.


If you want to be able to use the accent input as an analogue CV input (of which alters the bass drum's level and punch), and you want it to work even if something is not currently plugged in, you will have to tie it to +V through a 100k resistor. So, run a 100k resistor to +V from the accent input pad.

There must be a positive voltage present on the accent input for the 808 to make any sound. Adding this resistor to +V will pull the input up to +V whenever a lower impedance analogue signal is not plugged into the jack, so you know your drum should make sound at all times then.

It should make sound regardless of the pots being wired backwards. The controls would just work backwards methinks smile

That brings me to my next question for bananeurysm:


bananeurysm wrote:
And Hexinverter - the boards aren't modified for tying the accent - I've just been tying them anyway and losing the accent jack in the process for those type of applications - but you could certainly mod differently!


Okay, cool smile

So, that begs the question -- have you added a gate->trigger/input conditioning circuit on the PCB, or is it just straight off of the 808 schematic without any modularizing of the control input?

The original x0x machines weren't designed for use in a modular synthesizer. It's a really good idea to add an opamp gate->trigger converter which cleans up signals so you can basically use any voltage signal to trigger the drum, and also provides a high impedance, buffered input for the module. That would be a really nice addition for a board revision if you have not added one on this PCB This is fun!

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Last edited by hexinverter on Sat Sep 29, 2012 10:19 pm; edited 1 time in total
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 18, 2012 7:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

hey hex,
do you think the CGS gate->trig PCB would work for the 808 PCB?
let me know. i have a couple of those.

the schematic for the 808 PCB is up on jesse's website.

im adding it here:
[/img]
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hexinverter
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 18, 2012 8:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

asterisk wrote:
hey hex,
do you think the CGS gate->trig PCB would work for the 808 PCB?
let me know. i have a couple of those.

the schematic for the 808 PCB is up on jesse's website.

im adding it here:
[/img]


Hmm, it's actually already got a gate->trig on it by the looks of it smile Good stuff.

D3, C1 and R26 form a gate->trig converter, basically.

I'm unfamiliar with the Roland design, so it may be that it was stock...or he added it in smile

There is a transistor buffer there already if he did add it, so the opamp is a bit redundant anyway in my suggestion.

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 18, 2012 8:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

ok good to know that it should trigger properly with modular stuff.

i just need some dang 22k resistors and i can finish building my other PCB. im anxious to get this thing working.
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 20, 2012 9:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

I'd love to get one of these- are they still available?
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 21, 2012 9:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

I just finished an 808 BD using this PCB layout:
http://xlargex.xl.funpic.de/projects/808/docs/808bdV1.0.pdf

I'm running it off 12V and tried several values for the pulse conditioner cap (C1 in bananeurysm's layout) and found that 33nF works much better than 100nF. With 100nF the pulse is too wide and makes the Attack click sound weird. It's also appears too loud. With 1nF the circuit sometimes fails to make a sound when sending rapid triggers.

Both 33nF and 47nF yielded much better results - I ultimately settled on 33nF because I liked the click sound a little better than with 47nF...

YMMV but I think it's worth trying different values there... Especially if your BD sound doesn't feel spot on...
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 21, 2012 10:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

roglok wrote:
I just finished an 808 BD using this PCB layout:
http://xlargex.xl.funpic.de/projects/808/docs/808bdV1.0.pdf

I'm running it off 12V and tried several values for the pulse conditioner cap (C1 in bananeurysm's layout) and found that 33nF works much better than 100nF. With 100nF the pulse is too wide and makes the Attack click sound weird. It's also appears too loud. With 1nF the circuit sometimes fails to make a sound when sending rapid triggers.

Both 33nF and 47nF yielded much better results - I ultimately settled on 33nF because I liked the click sound a little better than with 47nF...

YMMV but I think it's worth trying different values there... Especially if your BD sound doesn't feel spot on...


This is a good bit of information! Thanks for bringing it up Roglok! thumbs up

The drum circuit was designed around a very specific trigger pulse-width in the x0x machines, so, yes, you are going to want to play with values for that capacitor if you're seeking an absolutely perfect replica, as, the length of the pulse actually determines the "on" time of the oscillators before the decay/etc cycles start.

This is true for the 909 as well...which makes me think I might want to experiment with some different values in my 909 kick project This is fun!

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bananeurysm
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 21, 2012 7:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Yeah I used a modified trigger circuit based on something I got from Eric Archer's website. I've had success triggering it with a variety of sources, roland drum trigger outs, cmos square waves, loud audio transients, and modular square waves. for modular triggering - you have to play with pulse width a little bit - but you can dial it in.

Asterisk - I don't think you need to ground the accent jack - just wire your positive voltage to it. Are you powering the boards with batteries? Or a bipolar power supply? What are you triggering with?

Like hex said - backwards pots won't give you no sound... but make sure you try all the pots in a variety of positions - if they're backwards you might have the volume turned all the way down or something. Also play with the decay pot - play with all the pots. (But you probably have already...)
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 22, 2012 7:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Here is my MOTM version, after the venerable design of the OG cool




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PostPosted: Mon Sep 24, 2012 11:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

There are a couple components in the Mouser BOM that are not available anymore. I'm horrible at picking new parts.

I need replacement parts for these two:

1) http://ca.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=CCF07220RGKR36virtual key61300000virtualkey71-CCF07-G-220

2) http://ca.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=K104M20X7RH53L2virtua lkey59420000virtualkey594-K104M20X7RH53L2

Pretty please anyone?

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 24, 2012 11:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

haricots wrote:
There are a couple components in the Mouser BOM that are not available anymore. I'm horrible at picking new parts.

I need replacement parts for these two:

1) http://ca.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=CCF07220RGKR36virtual key61300000virtualkey71-CCF07-G-220

2) http://ca.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=K104M20X7RH53L2virtua lkey59420000virtualkey594-K104M20X7RH53L2

Pretty please anyone?


Here ya go smile

1: http://ca.mouser.com/ProductDetail/KOA-Speer/MF1-4DCT52R2200F/?qs=sGAE piMZZMu61qfTUdNhG%2fDQawzJ6c7Pvwf5CGzltL8%3d

2: http://ca.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Vishay-BC-Components/K104K15X7RF53L 2/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMuAYrNc52CMZBsO5XL1av8%2fgVbH%252blMj84U%3d

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 24, 2012 11:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

boothnavy wrote:
Here is my MOTM version, after the venerable design of the OG cool


Hot woah

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 24, 2012 12:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

boothnavy wrote:
Hre is my MOTM version, after the venerable design of the OG cool


nice panel!!
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 24, 2012 12:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

im running mine off doepfer +/- 12v supply.

so can i just run a +12v to the switch lug of my accent jack.
that way its +12v until i plug something into the jack?

i did play around with the pots in all positions and i still got no sound.

i should be able to finish my 2nd PCB later this week. hopefully i can get that one working.

im working on a dual 808 BD euro FPE panel. ill post it here once i get things working out.


bananeurysm wrote:
Yeah I used a modified trigger circuit based on something I got from Eric Archer's website. I've had success triggering it with a variety of sources, roland drum trigger outs, cmos square waves, loud audio transients, and modular square waves. for modular triggering - you have to play with pulse width a little bit - but you can dial it in.

Asterisk - I don't think you need to ground the accent jack - just wire your positive voltage to it. Are you powering the boards with batteries? Or a bipolar power supply? What are you triggering with?

Like hex said - backwards pots won't give you no sound... but make sure you try all the pots in a variety of positions - if they're backwards you might have the volume turned all the way down or something. Also play with the decay pot - play with all the pots. (But you probably have already...)
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 24, 2012 1:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

asterisk wrote:
im running mine off doepfer +/- 12v supply.

so can i just run a +12v to the switch lug of my accent jack.
that way its +12v until i plug something into the jack?


That should work - though plugging in a jack won't override the voltage you have on there. If you tie it high like that - plan on discarding the jack.. or adding a switch.

You have +12 hooked up to the pad with a silkscreened + right? The leftmost pad on the power header? I know there is also a + on the right most pad - though it's harder to make out. I hope there is no mixup there.

Other than that I'm not sure - obvs double check all your polarized cap directions, and transistors. Measure voltage at the chip and make sure that all looks right. Trouble shooting is a pita!
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 24, 2012 2:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

Quote:
That should work - though plugging in a jack won't override the voltage you have on there. If you tie it high like that - plan on discarding the jack.. or adding a switch.


wouldn't it make most sense to add a small DC mixer a la CGS24, add a voltage divider pot for the internal accent voltage and mix that with the external accent voltage?
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 24, 2012 4:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Add User to Ignore List

i just checked my PCB.
im getting +12 at the accent pad.

i have the power hooked up correctly. +/- 12v show up there on the correct pads. -V is the square pad correct?

im getting +/- 12v on the proper pins of the IC. voltage there is good.
(and swapping the 072 didnt help either)

my caps are oriented right. my transistors are oriented correctly based on the PCB. im using regular BC556 and BC546A. im not using variations on those.

for those of you that are using the 808 PCB in eurorack land, what kind of trigger are you sending it? ive tried using Maths and other square wave / PWM sources and none of them work.

my soldering job looks good to me too.

what else should i check?

bananeurysm wrote:
asterisk wrote:
im running mine off doepfer +/- 12v supply.

so can i just run a +12v to the switch lug of my accent jack.
that way its +12v until i plug something into the jack?


That should work - though plugging in a jack won't override the voltage you have on there. If you tie it high like that - plan on discarding the jack.. or adding a switch.

You have +12 hooked up to the pad with a silkscreened + right? The leftmost pad on the power header? I know there is also a + on the right most pad - though it's harder to make out. I hope there is no mixup there.

Other than that I'm not sure - obvs double check all your polarized cap directions, and transistors. Measure voltage at the chip and make sure that all looks right. Trouble shooting is a pita!
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