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Rubber stamps with solvent ink for panel labeling |
rockmanrock
Common Wiggler
Joined: 24 Aug 2011
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 Posted: Wed Mar 28, 2012 10:05 am Post subject: Rubber stamps with solvent ink for panel labeling |
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| Has anyone tried using rubber stamps? I've been reading about guitar pedal builders using rubber stamp kits with Staz-On solvent based ink but I was wondering if anyone had used this technique for their modular panels. You can get white Staz-On ink so if it works it might be another option for that tricky labeling of black panels. You can get custom stamps made which would be handy for doing scale graphics around pots. |
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limpmeat
Veteran Wiggler
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Location: Melbourne
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| Posted: Wed Mar 28, 2012 7:00 pm Post subject: |
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I had the same idea a while ago, haven't tried it yet.
Do you have any pics of diy pedals that are painted this way?
Another idea I had was little spray paint stencils of pot scales. Probably neater than stamps. |
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daverj
Vintage Video Wiggler
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| Posted: Wed Mar 28, 2012 8:04 pm Post subject: |
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I bought a set of stamps that used solvent based ink/paint back in the late 90s or early 2000s. I used it once and threw it on a shelf in the back room. I felt the lettering looked like crap. It had a thin layer of ink under the letter and a ring of thick ink around the outer edge. It looked very amateur. I could have done better looking letters with a tube of paint and a thin brush.
Just my opinion.
Some people think crappy looking letters are cool.
To me, rub on letters and clear coat looks a lot better.
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ringstone
antipodean experimentalist
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Location: Trudging through the Capital Wasteland
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| Posted: Wed Mar 28, 2012 8:37 pm Post subject: |
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| daverj wrote: | | To me, rub on letters and clear coat looks a lot better. |
I'm having trouble finding a suitable product here that will go on over painted/labelled aluminium. I generally use a tough acrylic type label sprayed with a fixative to stabilise the toner but although this looks good I find that they're too susceptible to wear and tear and the glue also has a tendency to slip if placed under pressure (when tightening nuts etc.)
I'm thinking if I go to a plain printed label with a matt/gloss coat it will probably solve this, so if anyone can throw some brands/products at me I can try and track them down over here..
Thanks
Blair
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rockmanrock
Common Wiggler
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Last Visit: 08 May 2013
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| Posted: Wed Mar 28, 2012 9:21 pm Post subject: |
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Hmm, after some googling I think you're right, it can look a bit messy. This is probably the neatest one I found and this is a 'distressed' sort of design, done with a complete custom stamp rather than individual lettering:
http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=71263.0 |
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daverj
Vintage Video Wiggler
Joined: 19 Jun 2009
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| Posted: Wed Mar 28, 2012 10:55 pm Post subject: |
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| ringstone wrote: | | daverj wrote: | | To me, rub on letters and clear coat looks a lot better. |
I'm having trouble finding a suitable product here that will go on over painted/labelled aluminium. I generally use a tough acrylic type label sprayed with a fixative to stabilise the toner but although this looks good I find that they're too susceptible to wear and tear and the glue also has a tendency to slip if placed under pressure (when tightening nuts etc.)
I'm thinking if I go to a plain printed label with a matt/gloss coat it will probably solve this, so if anyone can throw some brands/products at me I can try and track them down over here..
Thanks
Blair |
The stuff I used to use is known as dry transfer lettering (search that on Google and you'll find tons of it). I then used several coats of clear acrylic spray over it to protect it. I did usually have to do a couple of light coats first in case the letters started to move or break apart from the acrylic. Then a couple of heavier coats for protection. It would last a number of years before the clear coat wore off from rubbing with fingers. Let it dry for several days to a week before tightening nuts.
These days I use a laser to engrave on anodized aluminum (or wood). For production panels I use the commercial MetalPhoto panels (but they're not cheap enough for singles)
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