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modifying a doepfer 6u case |
crippletoe Common Wiggler
Joined: 07 Mar 2011 Last Visit: 13 May 2013
  Posts: 202
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Posted: Thu Mar 29, 2012 6:17 am Post subject: modifying a doepfer 6u case |
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Hi all,
I've got a Doepfer 6u case (portable version) and i need some more space. really a little bit so i could fut some new purchases ,actually.
i thought of creating spaces in the wooden panels above and below the panes and fit my passive mults there (since its the easiest).
when examining the wooden panels i couldnt really tell if it was thick wood or a couple of very thin plates and as a result i am not sure how to cut it exactly. i wouldnt wanna break the wood completely and if its delicate , that might happen.
does anyone have any experience with this kind of stuff? i have seen photos od systems here with such modification and thats why i assumed its possible.
could use any tip!
thanks. |
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hawklord2112 Generally and Specifically
Joined: 07 Feb 2010 Last Visit: 14 May 2013
   Posts: 1052 Location: deepest darkest devon, in the UK
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Posted: Thu Mar 29, 2012 6:26 am Post subject: |
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I've definitely seen this done a few times here. Can put 4/6 hp modules in there and with longer ribbon cables possibly even have powered ones... _________________ http://www.youtube.com/user/hawklord2112 <--- Videos
http://homepage.mac.com/ieb/Hawklord/index.html <--- downloadable stuff.
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wavecircle Big Audio Sodomite
Joined: 05 Sep 2010 Last Visit: 18 May 2013
  Posts: 1266 Location: Newcastle, England
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Posted: Thu Mar 29, 2012 6:30 am Post subject: |
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| Be careful, I have been told that the wood up there is part of the support structure of the case. |
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exper Super Deluxe Wiggler
Joined: 22 Apr 2011 Last Visit: 18 May 2013
  Posts: 4194 Location: Southern NJ
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Posted: Thu Mar 29, 2012 6:35 am Post subject: |
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If I were you, I'd go for that monorocket skiff with a Makenoise DIN power to connect it to the main case. You'll get plenty of extra room, won't damage your case, and you'll still have a nice portable setup. _________________
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sgnhh Super Deluxe Wiggler
Joined: 18 Jan 2008 Last Visit: 18 May 2013
     Posts: 1525 Location: se mi
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rowman birds are dinosaurs
Joined: 18 Jan 2012 Last Visit: 18 May 2013
 Posts: 569 Location: Melbourne
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Posted: Thu Mar 29, 2012 7:50 am Post subject: |
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| sgnhh wrote: | | you can just screw a mult module directly into the wood |
Yeah, just use one of those thumb size drill bits to make room for the works behind the panel.
stackables are good too |
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crippletoe Common Wiggler
Joined: 07 Mar 2011 Last Visit: 13 May 2013
  Posts: 202
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Posted: Thu Mar 29, 2012 8:16 am Post subject: |
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hi all,
thanks for all the advice.
wavecircle, i am sure this wood parts are important but i only wish to embed a passive mult in each one. it is a thin module which will require a 1cm x 13cm "hole" in that panel
sgnhh, thats exactly what i had planned (since there is no ribbon cable involved) but i am not sure how to do that... i mean what tool to use. i dont want to hurt the wood...
rowman, do you think a thick drill could do it? hmm...
and finally, exper, that sounds like a cool plan but i am only missing something like 2hp. the new monorocket skiff and a makenoise DIN power simply become not economical...
add to that the fact that i dont think its so easy to get monorocket products in Europe (where i live currently...) |
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Protofrangiste Proto - wigglerist
Joined: 31 Aug 2010 Last Visit: 18 May 2013
  Posts: 199 Location: Rennes, France
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rowman birds are dinosaurs
Joined: 18 Jan 2012 Last Visit: 18 May 2013
 Posts: 569 Location: Melbourne
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Posted: Thu Mar 29, 2012 9:14 am Post subject: |
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| crippletoe wrote: |
rowman, do you think a thick drill could do it? hmm...
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well there can't be much behind the panel, just some holes to make room for that and then some more serious screws to screw the module into the wood. |
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sgnhh Super Deluxe Wiggler
Joined: 18 Jan 2008 Last Visit: 18 May 2013
     Posts: 1525 Location: se mi
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Posted: Thu Mar 29, 2012 9:32 am Post subject: |
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when i had a doepfer case, i just grabbed some screws that fit the modules and screwed right into the wood. no need to worry about hurting the wood. i didn't even drill it. _________________ webs: http://smkstcks.tumblr.com/
soundclod: http://soundcloud.com/smokestacks |
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crippletoe Common Wiggler
Joined: 07 Mar 2011 Last Visit: 13 May 2013
  Posts: 202
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Posted: Thu Mar 29, 2012 10:06 am Post subject: |
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Protofrangiste, thanks for that sketch!
according to it, this is one solid, thick piece of wood. if thats really true, i dont have to worry about it breaking while drilling or cutting it with a saw (this was one of my main concerns- if its 2 thin wooden plates i might cause larger damage). i will use that!
rowman & sgnhh, screwing the modules into the wood is not really what i am worried of. its more cutting teh wood in order to get the module in there (only then i can start screwing it in).
if that wood is too thin or fragile, i might end up breaking the whole case... wouldnt want that now...
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ersatzplanet Synthwerks Design
Joined: 06 Mar 2009 Last Visit: 18 May 2013
    Posts: 2362 Location: Seattle WA
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Posted: Thu Mar 29, 2012 11:22 am Post subject: |
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You can also buy a C-shaped aluminum channel cut to size from Online metals - http://www.onlinemetals.com/merchant.cfm?pid=6890&step=4&showunits=mm& id=297&top_cat=60 and mount it in front of the wood sections. Drill it out to mount the modules or just drill the holes needed for the modules jacks and switches. The channels are pretty cheap (under $5.00 a rail) so buy a few extras in case you mess up. Find a friend with a drill press. _________________ -James
James Husted
Synthwerks
www.synthwerks.com
info@synthwerks.com
james@synthwerks.com
synthwerks@me.com
Synthwerks is a proud member of the Mostly Modular Trade Association (http://www.mostlymodular.com).
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