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[PROJECT] Music Thing Spring Reverb
MUFF WIGGLER Forum Index -> Music Tech DIY Goto page Previous  1, 2, 3 ... , 46, 47, 48  Next [all]
Author [PROJECT] Music Thing Spring Reverb
jford
I'm getting reverb'd signal from the wet_out pad, but only dry signal from the output, no matter what I do. The three pots have no effect at all on anything, just getting dry signal out. Does this suggest a problem with the vactrol? I've checked the R7 is right for the VTL5C vactrol. Any other ideas?
reodjectz
Tombola wrote:
reodjectz wrote:
Swapped out R11 for the 1K. Still can hear the dry signal when fully wet on the cross-fade.... a far amount to be honest. I even fed 8v to the CV and turned control all the way up.

/shrug.


How strong is it when you're crossfading between two signals (i.e. not using the reverb)


That is when it is most noticeable. When feeding it two really distinct signals the dry one is always present. It isn't in a case right now as I'm making a 1U breakout for the tank and the wet out.
xenosapien
Does anybody here have experience with replacing the (module backside) RCA connectors with ones that are rotated 90° ?!

My problem is: in my skiff case, the module+RCA cable is about 10mm too deep... did not measure it WITH the cable connected, stupidity... very frustrating

And since nobody seems to want to trade my back-facing RCA connector module for a front-RCA variety, I am currently contemplating if it would be an "easy" swap to remove the RCA connectors and solder in some 90° connectors, if these even exist...

Because if the RCA connectors were facing DOWN (to the "bottom" of the module when mounted in the rack), I could make it fit...


Anybody got wise words/advice/maybe even a part number for 90° RCA connectors?! grin

(right now the module is doomed to exist as a X-Fader and nothing more haha)
DabiDabDab
Can someone please explain to me of what taper do 50k pots in the Thonk kit come with? I mean, i have self sourced everything by the BOM which has 2 options for those 50k pots, either 688-RK09L1140A5P or 858-P0915N-FC15AR50K from mouser . But they are of different taper (one audio and other linear). I got the bi technologies - linear ones and im thinking they might be the problem with my builds.

Namely i have build 3 music thing spring reverbs and on all of them wet signal and front LED kick in only at 11 or even 12 o clock position in the dry-wet pot turn. There is no wet mixed into dry from 0 to 45-50% of the dry-wet pot turn. I know i cant expect a totally smooth transition here but im not settling for this half unusable range so what are my solutions?

Im sure its not a build issue per se since i have the same problems with 3 of them. So im pretty sure its the wrong part, but what? I have used the this vactrol ( NSL-32SR3 http://si.farnell.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?catalog Id=10001&langId=386&urlRequestType=Base&partNumber=3692218&storeId=101 75 ) and 470ohm resistor on R7. I have tried to experiment with value there, connecting the pads only with wire and such, basically 100R and 1k resistor didnt make any change re where wet starts mixing in. Putting either wire or 1K for R11 position didnt work either. Got the led brighter and i guess it changed the wet signal but it didnt balance the crossfade more towards the left or the middle - Led still lit on only at 45% of the turn. So, what the hell..

..btw, the xfader circuit works as it should as far as i can tell, when pot is fully wet there is still some dry signal in, but when pot is at 0% of the turn there is no wet in mixed with the dry. That is supposed to be so, LED in xfader circuit however comes on only at 45/50% of the pot turn (center) same as with the dry/wet reverb function, that is at the same time as reverb kicks in.
Tombola
xenosapien wrote:



Anybody got wise words/advice/maybe even a part number for 90° RCA connectors?! grin



Snip off the end of the phono cable, and solder one end direct to the board?
Tombola
DabiDabDab wrote:
the xfader circuit works as it should as far as i can tell,


As I explained elsewhere, this is very odd - because the X-Fade is the wet/dry control.



This is the x-fade circuit, which I've built with those vactrols.

The panel LED and the vactrol LED are in series, so if the panel LED illumination is odd (you said elsewhere it only comes on at 50%) then the vactrol behaviour will be odd.

R11 = LED brightness, could be worth experimenting there?
R7 is crucial for the x-fade operation, but has worked as 470R in my builds with Silonex vactrols.
Doubt it will make any difference, but you can normally remove C1 without any trouble and possibly with better frequency response.
Obviously the 3904 transistor is crucial, but is such a generic part it should be OK...
Mrs_Audio_Boy
Are there any news on the new Spring Reverb Mkii? Thonk is offering the new kits, and it is already on Modulargrid, but there are no information about the power consumption yet.
Monobass
Hi Mrs Audio Boy, what news are you looking for?

Power consumption will be very similar to the original unit.
Mrs_Audio_Boy
Monobass wrote:
Hi Mrs Audio Boy, what news are you looking for?


Hi Monobass! Well, I was looking for any news or information really, not only the power consumption. I was confused that you are offering the kits, but there is no posts here on Muffwiggler yet, since usually there's prompt information about a new version of a module here on Muffwiggler. Well, I guess I just have to wait an see.
Monobass
Lots of info here - https://medium.com/music-thing-modular-notes/everything-i-know-about-s pring-reverb-1fb4b32abf87
Mrs_Audio_Boy
Monobass wrote:
Lots of info here - https://medium.com/music-thing-modular-notes/everything-i-know-about-s pring-reverb-1fb4b32abf87

Thank you very much, I was not aware of this site, I was always checking out http://musicthing.co.uk/modular/music-thing-spring-reverb-documentatio n/.
cdd3
It's probably posted somewhere that I overlooked but I can't seem to locate a BOM for the new mk2 + expander. Anyone have a link?
Monobass
@cdd3 - BOM is here -
https://www.thonk.co.uk/documents/springreverb/
boyciesdog
Hi,

I need some advice with my Mk2 build. I've built it with the expander and both tank and brick.

The tank works ok although I'll need to tweak it. The trimmer responds as does the tilt and the feedback knobs. WET and OUT seem to be working with the tank and the crossfade on the expander is working fine. The switch seems to work fine or at least I get three different settings.

The brick is doing nothing. I'm just getting the input signal and there is zero response from the crossfade knob. It doesn't alter anything. The TL072 IC's seem to be overheating or getting very hot. I've swapped them out but I get the same issue. Also the feedback, fade and CV inputs don't seem to be working properly.

Any advice would be great as I've lost my weekend to troubleshooting this project.
Monobass
@boyciesdog

What happens if you remove the expander and brick and add the shunt to just use the real spring tank attached to the rear phonos. Are some features still not working? If they are not working please describe how you are patching (or take a video)
radiokoala
Anyone in need for a MKI alu panel or can sell MKI PCB's maybe? PM please, Thank You. smokin'
fragster
Quick question before I start this build...

In #6 in the build doc, a 47k resistor considered suitable for the vtl3c5 vactrol. Im considering a DIY vactrol and wonder what to measure so I can get that resistor right?
Or is this a bad idea?
coolshirtdotjpg
Does anyone know if VTL5C3/2s work for this. I accidentally purchased these from synthcube rather than the standard VTL5C3, It wasn't clear from the data sheet whether the middle leg was actually necessary. Regardless my spring reverb isn't working and I've been messing with the thing for a while.
coolshirtdotjpg
Anyone?
rosch
The BOM says VTL5C3, so VTL5C3/2 works, or let's better say half of it works already as it's 2 VTL5C3's inside. Only connect one outer leg and the middle leg on the 3 legged side. Or order a normal single one and keep this for the next project.
Good luck, awesome reverb
coolshirtdotjpg
rosch wrote:
The BOM says VTL5C3, so VTL5C3/2 works, or let's better say half of it works already as it's 2 VTL5C3's inside. Only connect one outer leg and the middle leg on the 3 legged side. Or order a normal single one and keep this for the next project.
Good luck, awesome reverb


Awesome, thanks man!
AST
The spring reverbs works like a charm, only the led doesnt seem to work. I've replaced it but it doesnt help. Does anyone have a clue where to find the problem?
bezier
Hello everyone,
my spring tank had a problem with its connectors, or at least i thought so. After some plumbing i wanted to try it out, only to realize i do not remember which way the connectors should be facing. I know d'oh! . Still, maybe someone could check with his tank to see if i have it right? I am using the 9EB2C1B as recommended by mr. whitwell himself. I attached pictures of the connectors for clarification.
Cheers!

Picture file
Picture file
elmegil
Trying to troubleshoot one of these that someone else built, a few questions....

I'm using a TTSH reverb tank, modified for the TTSH so input is isolated and output is grounded, which sounds like it matches this circuit fine...

Both sections are built (tank & brick), but I'm only interested in the tank, and the tank is selected by the jumper. Is this a problem?

Using the VTL5C3 vactrol and appropriately sized resistor (47K).

I would expect that when I am fully at "wet" that I should only be hearing what's coming from the tank. But that's not what I get. I get the input signal at full strength regardless.

LED is confirmed to be the right way around, it never seems to light.

I've reduced the trimmer to about 270R, no change.

Even if I pull the jumper off entirely, the "wet" side still gets the input signal.

If I disconnect the input signal, put the jumper back in place, wire up the tank, I get no output that I can hear when I pluck on the springs.

If I put a different signal into xFade, I hear both signals more or less equally regardless of where the "wet/dry" setting is.

This makes me suspect that the vactrol is shot. *maybe* T1, but I would expect I'd only hear the input signal, not the xfade signal, if that were the case and the Vactrol were fine.

Am I on the right track here?
elmegil
Ok, Just to be sure I replaced T1, still nothing from the LED.

I would *expect* that if it were working correctly, I would see the LED on when I have the balance turned to wet.

But before I replace a hard to find Vactrol (I do believe I have some stock, but it's dwindling), I'd like a second opinion whether that is actually true.
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