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BMC016. Dual Nice Quantizer
MUFF WIGGLER Forum Index -> Music Tech DIY Goto page 1, 2, 3, 4  Next [all]
Author BMC016. Dual Nice Quantizer
Boogdish
Hey everybody, I have a new module design ready. This is something I've been talking about and putting off for a long time. It's basically two of my simple quantizers together on one board with a nicer (as opposed to simpler) design, using some of the features from the UWQ.

Similar to Simple Quantizer:
-16 different musical modes selected by a knob.
-Just plug an input in and take the output to a VCO and you're good.
-Works on either +/-12v or +/-15v

Different from Simple Quantizer:
-10volt range that can be either positive unipolar (0 to 10V) or bi-polar (-5 to +5).
-Quantize bypass can be activated by external gate
-Track and Hold functionality on the input using the "T" input.
-Manual input voltage offset, or external CV summing with input.
-More accurate 4822 DAC instead of PWM+LPF DAC
-Twice the number of quantizers on one board.
-Power connecters for Eurorack and MOTM

There is documentation and more information on my site.
Http://www.bartonmusicalcircuits.com/dnq/

I'm selling a board and a PIC for $18 + shipping and I'll be making blank Eurorack panels for this in the next couple of days which will be $8.
Ordering information is on my site, click the "How To Order" button on the bottom of the page linked above. You can also just PM me here.

demian
I was just about to start to build some of your previous quantizers..

But the option : 'Quantize bypass can be activated by external gate' is great, and something i was looking for.
sammy123
Shit, now I am going to have to buy this as well.
Peake
Cool smile
seanpark
Ordered a simple quantizer last nite from synthcube so now I'll have three hihi
ABC
raw power.

Any chance of a quick demo in the octave mode, just to assess the accuracy? I have some of your last quantisers, and although I consider this a kind of 'feature', their tuning is somewhat idiosyncratic.
ChrisR
I'm interested in building this with banana jacks, but i have a question:
In your build doc pg. 9 i see the trigger and gate inputs are normalized to 5V when nothing is plugged into them. Yet on pg. 5 under the "Digital Inputs" schematic you write "RN1 is a 100K bussed resistor network which keeps all of the pins at 0V when no signal is input."
So i figure the 100k's are pulldown resistors for gate and trigger inputs, but then i don't understand the need for the 5V normalization.

I know nothing about PICs, so this might very well be a stupid question. Basically i want to find out if i can build this with bananas without having to add toggle switches for the 5V normalizations.

thumbs up
recompas
Nicely done! I've played around with my friend's simple quantizer boards and this seems like a really nice evolution of the module! Hope to be ordering soon. What type of pots is the pcb footprint for?
lintfresh
This looks awesome Boogdish.

I just finished a dual simple quantizer last night and like it a lot so far.
Very easy build and super useful!


thumbs up thumbs up
sammy123
It doesn't look like the mcp4822 is available at Tayda as mentioned in the build doc. Does Tayda offer an alternative?
Boogdish
ABC, I'll make a demo either late tonight or tommorow.
Chris, doing it in bananas, you would want to have switches to normalize +5 when nothing is plugged in. The quantizer doesn't read the CV input unless +5V is on the "T" input, and it will be in bypass mode until there's +5V on the Q input. The pull down resistors are there for when you're using external Gates and Triggers for the Q and T.
Recompas, it uses 16mm pots.
Sammy, sorry that was an oversight when writing the documentation which has now been fixed. I don't see anything compatible on Tayda's site.
sammy123
No problem. Turns out I have the correct IC. thumbs up
neandrewthal
Awesome! I'm definitely getting one of these. I have a question though:

What is the difference between the Trigger and Quantize inputs? It says the Quantize input turns the quantizing on and off. Does that man one gate turns it on and the next gate turns it off?

If this is the case is there a way to make sure it's ALWAYS quantizing if I omit the input and the switch?

What is your avatar?
terrafractyl
Nice work on updating a very useful DIY module.

I have been waiting for yonks for another run of Clee's 8 channel Quantizer (or that pesky Toppo quantimator).
But now you have updated this and improved the accuracy, I guess I don't have to wait anymore!

applause
Boogdish
neandrewthal wrote:
Awesome! I'm definitely getting one of these. I have a question though:

What is the difference between the Trigger and Quantize inputs? It says the Quantize input turns the quantizing on and off. Does that man one gate turns it on and the next gate turns it off?

If this is the case is there a way to make sure it's ALWAYS quantizing if I omit the input and the switch?

What is your avatar?


My avatar is from the TV show Brass Eye. It was a satirical fake news show from the 90s. You can see the context of the image in this clip

When using an external pulse to turn quantizing on or off (the "Q" input), the DNQ will quantize while the pulse is high, and output the non quantized input when the pulse is low.

When using an external pulse to control when the quantizer tracks and when it holds (the "T" input), it will track while the pulse is high, and it will hold the last input while tracking when the pulse is low.

If you didn't want to use these inputs, just wire +5V straight to the Q1, T1, Q2 and T2 wiring pads.

Also, if you only need it to work in unipolar mode, you can completely leave the polarity switch and the two "offset" trimpots off and it will always be unipolar.
neandrewthal
Boogdish wrote:
My avatar is from the TV show Brass Eye. It was a satirical fake news show from the 90s. You can see the context of the image in this clip

I watched the whole thing and the pie chart still makes no sense to me. Brilliant!

Quote:
When using an external pulse to turn quantizing on or off (the "Q" input), the DNQ will quantize while the pulse is high, and output the non quantized input when the pulse is low.

Oh, that's how I thought the T input functioned.

Quote:
When using an external pulse to control when the quantizer tracks and when it holds (the "T" input), it will track while the pulse is high, and it will hold the last input while tracking when the pulse is low.

Now that sounds like fun!

Quote:
If you didn't want to use these inputs, just wire +5V straight to the Q1, T1, Q2 and T2 wiring pads.

Well, I'm going to keep one of them because I'm planning on building this into the place of my crappy MFOS quantizers(mostly crappy because I made a mistake somewhere and they are out of tune) that are already built on a panel with some other stuff and they each have holes for 3 jacks and one pot. I may have to find a place to drill some holes to cram the bank switches in though. Wouldn't want to go without those.

Quote:
Also, if you only need it to work in unipolar mode, you can completely leave the polarity switch and the two "offset" trimpots off and it will always be unipolar.

Actually I want bipolar and unipolar but I don't have room for the switches so I was thinking of just leaving it bipolar and then I can also have up to 5V of unipolar if I want but now after looking at the schematic I'm not so sure.

So all the bipolar switch does is add a negative offset to the output? What if I input a signal that is -5 to +5? Do I have to offset it until it's positive first, and then the bipolar switch is just to get it back to -5 to +5 after?

If it can't natively respond to negative voltages I suppose I could just leave it in unipolar mode and offset my input externally if I want to use a bipolar signal.
ChrisR
Boogdish wrote:
Chris, doing it in bananas, you would want to have switches to normalize +5 when nothing is plugged in. The quantizer doesn't read the CV input unless +5V is on the "T" input, and it will be in bypass mode until there's +5V on the Q input. The pull down resistors are there for when you're using external Gates and Triggers for the Q and T.

Thanks.
I'll have to figure out if i can find space for all of those switches on my panel though.
Boogdish
neandrewthal wrote:


So all the bipolar switch does is add a negative offset to the output? What if I input a signal that is -5 to +5? Do I have to offset it until it's positive first, and then the bipolar switch is just to get it back to -5 to +5 after?

The bipolar switch adds a positive offset (adjusted by the IN-OFF trimpot) to the input, and a negative offset (adjusted by the OUT-OFF trimpot) to the output.
Morpher
Very nice!
I'd love to own one.. This is fun!
Anyone in Europe (or even better Holland) who is willing to make me one we're not worthy
falafelbiels
Sure, in fact I am ordering several BMC boards this weekend, so hop on...
LetterBeacon
Is it possible to replace the mode pot with an 8 pos rotary switch so I can select each mode accurately?

A rotary switch with 12k on each pin should do it, shouldn't it?


Edit: Boogdish -did you get around to making that demo? I would love to hear it!
emdot_ambient
LetterBeacon wrote:
Is it possible to replace the mode pot with an 8 pos rotary switch so I can select each mode accurately?

A rotary switch with 12k on each pin should do it, shouldn't it?


I'm not sure on the resitor value, but yes you can do that. It's just more of a pain and is more expensive.
LetterBeacon
The pot I'm replacing is 100k linear, so I've just divided 100 by 8 and rounded to the nearest common resistor -12k.

I hoping that's all there is to it, hopefully someone will pipe up if not!
aladan
LetterBeacon wrote:
The pot I'm replacing is 100k linear, so I've just divided 100 by 8 and rounded to the nearest common resistor -12k.

I hoping that's all there is to it, hopefully someone will pipe up if not!


What you are proposing will work just fine thumbs up
Morpher
Cant wait till I own this we're not worthy
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