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Two Thousand Six Hundred (TTSH) Ver.1 General build thread
MUFF WIGGLER Forum Index -> Music Tech DIY Goto page Previous  1, 2, 3 ... 114, 115, 116, 117  Next [all]
Author Two Thousand Six Hundred (TTSH) Ver.1 General build thread
fuzzbass
biggiesmalls wrote:
Hey guys, need some assistance;

Second is the S&H; i debugged an issue this section, got the clock working, tested the S&H and it does seem to modulate, but not in a random pitched voltage the way it should. Its modulation is a steady ADSR feel pitch modulation, like an envelope modulating the pitch. I can see at the jack S&H out that im getting a voltage fluxation between 5-5.97vdc. From the "pulse" jack out i get between 1-11vdc randomly. I dropped in a new 3958 here too but no difference.

here is some shots from my scope;

2. this is S&H OUT - ; the ramp explains the envelope like pitch modulation that i do here from the normaled s&h on each VCO.


i also checked the saw wave resistor in the clock, that seems normal too, same as the instructions state.


Is it fair to say that the S&H is correctly sampling, but but then not holding; instead drooping back toward 0? If you agree, its either the 2N4392 FET - switching, but then leaking (more likely), or the 22n cap is defective (less likely).

Your scope image makes me wonder however, what you are sampling, which would ordinarily be the noise. If you have all the sliders in the noise section maxed and the S&H input slider maxed, the peaks of these ramps should show some variation. Maybe we are just looking at too small slice or too narrow a voltage range? At any rate, first see if you are indeed sampling the noise and getting different peaks. If the peaks are moving about but always falling, the problem is with the FET and or cap.
KlangGenerator
I'm almost done with my Rev1 TTSH I recently got from Jon. The BOM for Rev1 provided by LED-man didn't include the DC-DC converter. I didn't realize that the Rev1 PCB was designed for a single converter with two outputs, so I ordered two Murata's like in Rev3.

My question is, will one Murata converter work equally like a two-output version if I install it in the center like this?


(Pic is taken from Rev1 build thread, page 25)
fuzzbass
KlangGenerator wrote:
I'm almost done with my Rev1 TTSH I recently got from Jon. The BOM for Rev1 provided by LED-man didn't include the DC-DC converter. I didn't realize that the Rev1 PCB was designed for a single converter with two outputs, so I ordered two Murata's like in Rev3.

My question is, will one Murata converter work equally like a two-output version if I install it in the center like this?


(Pic is taken from Rev1 build thread, page 25)

No! Don't solder that; you will have a very difficult time removing it, and zero chance of returning the expensive, incorrect part for exchange.
KlangGenerator
Ok, thanks. Guess I'll have to heat up my desoldering station then... eek! Are there any cheaper alternatives to the TDK Lambda or is this the only converter that works? Unfortunately the AEE00CC18-L is discontinued... If anyone needs two Muratas (one new, one desoldered), feel free to PM me. wink I'll give them away for 40 Euro including shipping within Europe.
KlangGenerator
I found a supplier for the Artesyn converters. Am I safe to install one of these in my Rev.1 or will I run into problems because it's only 0.5A? It's so much cheaper than the TDK... woah
sduck
I recently dug through mouser's choices for subs for that part, and came up with this - 490-PDQ30-Q24-D15-D - at 35$, not bad.
KlangGenerator
Cool, ordered! Thanks! thumbs up
fuzzbass
If you are up for working with line voltage and know how to mitigate the risks, I can show you how to power V1 with an HBB15-0.8 linear power supply. I'd say overall cost is about same as the DC-DC converter.
KlangGenerator
fuzzbass wrote:
If you are up for working with line voltage and know how to mitigate the risks, I can show you how to power V1 with an HBB15-0.8 linear power supply. I'd say overall cost is about same as the DC-DC converter.


Thanks for your kind offer fuzzbass. thumbs up I'm sure this is the more elegant way to power the TTSH, but I already ordered the converter suggested by sduck. I also have a completed regulator PCB by nordcore which I don't want to become obsolete.
sduck
Be aware that I haven't tested that converter. According to the spec sheet, which I did examine thoroughly, it should work fine though.
KlangGenerator
sduck wrote:
Be aware that I haven't tested that converter. According to the spec sheet, which I did examine thoroughly, it should work fine though.


Installed the converter yesterday and it works like a charm! thumbs up

There is one issue though which I couldn't solve so far. My ADSR is outputting nada. The AR instead works fine.

I already reheated all solder joints, replaced the LM301, several transistors... Again, nada. No output, not even from the ADSR OUT jack.

Ideas are highly appreciated, because I don't have anymore... seriously, i just don't get it
KlangGenerator
All traces checked, all voltages on LM301 in ADSR section are correct. All transistors swapped. Orientation of diodes and caps is correct. Still no output. very frustrating
flts
KlangGenerator wrote:
There is one issue though which I couldn't solve so far. My ADSR is outputting nada. The AR instead works fine.


How are you triggering the ADSR? You need to input a gate/trig to either both gate and trig inputs, or use the S&H gate with the switch set to correct position. Simply using either a trigger or gate input alone won't work I think.
KlangGenerator
Some high res pics...





KlangGenerator
flts wrote:
KlangGenerator wrote:
There is one issue though which I couldn't solve so far. My ADSR is outputting nada. The AR instead works fine.


How are you triggering the ADSR? You need to input a gate/trig to either both gate and trig inputs, or use the S&H gate with the switch set to correct position. Simply using either a trigger or gate input alone won't work I think.


It's definately dead. I triggered it as you said but nothing happens. Also if I open the VCF and ADSR slider in the VCA section with the switch set to S&H I should here the ADSR. Instead there is silence. When I lift the AR slider it works.
KlangGenerator
I have to say this is my second TTSH, so it shouldn't be an operating error. The first one was Rev3.
flts
^- Ah, fair enough, just had to make sure you weren't trying to trigger it in a wrong way, as that seems to generally be a common catch with people saying they can't get the ADSR working.
fuzzbass
KlangGenerator wrote:
flts wrote:
KlangGenerator wrote:
There is one issue though which I couldn't solve so far. My ADSR is outputting nada. The AR instead works fine.


How are you triggering the ADSR? You need to input a gate/trig to either both gate and trig inputs, or use the S&H gate with the switch set to correct position. Simply using either a trigger or gate input alone won't work I think.


It's definately dead. I triggered it as you said but nothing happens. Also if I open the VCF and ADSR slider in the VCA section with the switch set to S&H I should here the ADSR. Instead there is silence. When I lift the AR slider it works.


I'm assuming you have gone through a complete visual inspection, looking at part numbers, orientations and resistor values.

Use these test conditions:

1. A,D & R minimized; S maximized - a working ADSR will simply repeat the gate signal;
2. Test using the manual gate switch - which feeds both Gate and Trigger lines (S&H Gate does same thing)
3. Monitor the ADSR at its output jack.

Start by inserting dummy plugs into all the modulation inputs normalled to the ADSR output. (VCOs 1-3, VCF and VCA). If one of these inputs is sinking the signal to ground, this will locate. If no improvement, proceed...

Position your scope or dmm probe at pin 3 of the ADSR LM301 (midpoint of the circuit). If you get nothing there, scrutinize the two FETs.

Alternatively, if you do see a response on pin 3, take reading on pin 6, then on the base of the 2N3906 next in the path.
sduck
I'm seeing some overly enthusiastic solder use - and a lot of leftover flux. Give it a good cleaning with IPA or whatever, and check for continuity between every solder that's close. Also, no pics of the back? Maybe something's bridged there. There's not really a lot going on part wise that you can get wrong, unless you perhaps got some odd transistors that have different pinouts than expected (happened to me once).
fuzzbass
sduck wrote:
I'm seeing some overly enthusiastic solder use - and a lot of leftover flux. Give it a good cleaning with IPA or whatever, and check for continuity between every solder that's close. Also, no pics of the back? Maybe something's bridged there. There's not really a lot going on part wise that you can get wrong, unless you perhaps got some odd transistors that have different pinouts than expected (happened to me once).


So much flux on picture it looks like everything was top soldered. The photo that actually shows the ADSR section, diode at bottom right looks like it has a cold joint.
KlangGenerator
fuzzbass wrote:
So much flux on picture it looks like everything was top soldered. The photo that actually shows the ADSR section, diode at bottom right looks like it has a cold joint.


Correct. I additionally soldered from the top after realizing that the ADSR doesn't work. I was hoping that this might resolve a bad contact somewhere. I just spent half an hour on cleaning the board from flux residue and it looks very clean now. I'll check for functionality again later when everything is dry. But to be honest, I don't have high hopes that this will make a difference.
KlangGenerator
fuzzbass wrote:


I'm assuming you have gone through a complete visual inspection, looking at part numbers, orientations and resistor values.

Use these test conditions:

1. A,D & R minimized; S maximized - a working ADSR will simply repeat the gate signal;
2. Test using the manual gate switch - which feeds both Gate and Trigger lines (S&H Gate does same thing)
3. Monitor the ADSR at its output jack.

Start by inserting dummy plugs into all the modulation inputs normalled to the ADSR output. (VCOs 1-3, VCF and VCA). If one of these inputs is sinking the signal to ground, this will locate. If no improvement, proceed...

Position your scope or dmm probe at pin 3 of the ADSR LM301 (midpoint of the circuit). If you get nothing there, scrutinize the two FETs.

Alternatively, if you do see a response on pin 3, take reading on pin 6, then on the base of the 2N3906 next in the path.


Thanks for the assistance fuzzbass. I'll try this out later. thumbs up
KlangGenerator
sduck wrote:
There's not really a lot going on part wise that you can get wrong, unless you perhaps got some odd transistors that have different pinouts than expected (happened to me once).


This is exactly what confuses me. It's pretty simple and I quadruple checked all components and traces (on both sides). No idea why it doesn't work...

One question: does the Rev1 also have multiple layers or is it just double layer? Maybe I've cut a trace to deep somewhere?
fuzzbass
KlangGenerator wrote:
sduck wrote:
There's not really a lot going on part wise that you can get wrong, unless you perhaps got some odd transistors that have different pinouts than expected (happened to me once).


This is exactly what confuses me. It's pretty simple and I quadruple checked all components and traces (on both sides). No idea why it doesn't work...

One question: does the Rev1 also have multiple layers or is it just double layer? Maybe I've cut a trace to deep somewhere?


Rev1 is two layers.
sduck
Again, double check for continuity, especially where it's not supposed to be, like the circled places, and between legs of transistors and everything else basically. It's handy to have a picture of the unpopulated bard for this, so you can see what's supposed to be connected and what's not.

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