why not just stick the pcbs from the music thing driver and the ai synthesis eurorack/pedal adaptor in one pedal box? but you're probably better off finding a schematic or stripboard layout. as the previous user mentioned, putting the actual springs in pedal will be way too noisy. but i'm pretty sur...

this is so vague as to be impossible to answer.

all i can say is... measure the voltage range from your sensors with a meter, then adjust the code to suit those values.

i think guest is suggesting the latter – adding an led and resistor just before the 1k output resistor. the transistor circuit is great in low-current digital circuits, it prevents the led from weakening the control signal. but for a buffered analog lfo you have plenty of current anyway, so you can ...

even big companies use this trick. sometimes it's cheapest just to buy thousands of one value with the bulk discounts, and combine them get the nearby values that're only occasionally needed.

another guitar people trick is to use an lt1054 or similar to get +/-9V from a 9V supply, which is adequate to run most synth circuits, if with less headroom. that's how i'd do it, to avoid dealing with biasing everything at 4.5V. however it'll eat a battery pretty quick...

looks fine to me, but that led is gonna be pretty bright with just a 1k resistor and a 12V supply. try 10k there, or 20k if it's a clear led.

a lot of resistors work at the base, the value really depends on what you're controlling it with. but 10k is pretty standard when it comes to gates in euro.

as someone who's also making some ornament & crime modules, any recommendations for a suitable benchtop one besides the tenma that's available for $250 or less?

if you're ok with on/off/on instead, you can just use a center-off spdt like this: https://smallbear-electronics.mybigcommerce.com/spdt-center-off/ your guitar toggle probably works the same, but use a multimeter to figure out what each pin connects to first to find out. but if you want off/on/on, y...

they're really useful. i usually see them listed as resistor "arrays", in case that makes it easier for you to find some. you can get them with 1% tolerance or lower if you need it. bussed type is extra nice if you're connecting a bunch of resistors to ground, saves you from soldering a lot of extra...

it seems kinda unlikely to me that a $13 solder sucker will do what a $200 hakko desoldering gun in incapable of. drilling it out or changing up your technique seem more promising. heat it up with you solder iron and then dab a surplus resistor leg in and out. this may seem silly, but i can attest t...

i don't see anything too off about the build. here's an idea: try de-soldering R1, then measure the voltage on either side of it. that's the resistor connecting the DAC to the output buffer, so it the -10.7V is on the DAC side you know it's a DAC issue, and if the -10.7V is on the opamp side you kno...

rather than matching, could you instead use a more robust exponential converter that compensates for the differences? https://www.schmitzbits.de/expo_tutorial/

unfortunately the schematic doesn't have component numbers, but a lot of stuff is still identifiable: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0ByUu4ePJDmVnS3U1OUNiQ05heG8/view to check voltages, measure at the pins of the voltage regulators and make sure they match up to the voltages specified in the schema...

I hate to bring up an old thread but there is one issue with my hack, when I connect the power, it seems the transistor is not engaged, so the pedal goes wild, and the tempo of the echos goes to maximum speed, so I usually just press the tap tempo pedal and it settles but - how can I fix this? I us...

for output 1, have you tried removing the resistor connecting it to the opamp, so you can test that pin in isolation as it were? voltage fluctuation sounds like a problem with the power supply. have you measured whether the 5V, 3.3V, and reference voltages are all stable? you might want to double ch...

what is there to investigate? both mono and stereo flanger and chorus effects take advantage of the Hass effect: we hear the effected instrument as a single instrument/sound, not as multiple.

some fully featured chorus effects let you adjust both the chorus depth (the delay variation around the center) and also the overall delay time (the static delay time). adjusting the static delay time gives noticeably different sounds. after all, chorus, flanger, and modulated delay are all the same...

i'm sure you're right jaytee, but to be honest it still bugs me knowing if i order a resistor now and another later, that's another plastic bag i have to deal with. x20 or more for every module... i build a lot of modules, so maybe for most people it's probably not a big deal. no individual decision...

how snappy do you want it? that's the main thing i'd consider for a lpg. you can adjust for the on and off resistance values in various ways, but there's no way to speed it up if it's too sluggish for your taste. but most people don't use a lpg if they want speed anyway. also, the VTL5C3/2 is just t...

Are there any DIY manufacturers that include a stencil with their kits? I feel like that would be the ticket. from a fab house like elecrow it's ~$10 per stencil, whereas the pcbs are ~$1 each when you order a bunch you can get a stencil made by osh for any project that's open source and gives you ...

unless you're building a bunch of modules at once, paste and hot air is the way to go. the skillet makes things faster, but it also makes it more difficult to fix issues as they happen. with hot air, you can give every component as much heat as it needs, and easily fix any tombstones. it should stil...

necro because search brought me here and didn't solve my problem... i want some good pin headers. but basically all the links in this thread are dead, aside form L-1's advice about samtec. tayda is an option, and i've used them in the past. but it's easy for them to move around while you're solderin...

for something like this (i.e. cool old device), wouldn't it be better to just disassemble the pot and scrub the washer with a little isopropyl alcohol and/or contact cleaner?

if you want to do a lot less work converting from bipolar to unipolar, you can just get a MAX1044/TC1044 to generate +/-9V. you'll lose a little headroom compared to the original +/-12V, but that's probably not an issue when guitar signal levels are so much lower anyway.

Yes. The copper layer acts as a ground plane and reduces EMI coming out of the module. Keep it on, at least on the backside if you don't like the look on the front. note that this only works if your drill holes are pads that the jacks sleeves can make contact with to ground the panel (or if you con...