https://smallbear-electronics.mybigcomm ... ts-kits-1/

but in general, you're usually better off researching the most common values, then making a big order from tayda or mouser.

you find a ton of old dod and arion pedals floating around really cheap. one of those old dod filter pedals could be a lot of fun. or their old delay/sampler pedals, which were some of the first digital delay pedals.

tkog mini glitch has a momentary mode and should work for vocals. the delay length can be random too, which is unusual

just rub some isopropyl on the boards after you swap the components, it'll look nice and clean

davies 1900 with the screw fit fine, but maybe those are too large for your purposes?

forrest wrote: ↑

Wed Jul 15, 2020 9:21 pm

Pretty excited about this as well, gonna get a 4hp panel made up soon as mine arrives and start messing around.. Maybe an 8hp version with some pots & a slider.

actually, if you or someone else could make a design for an 8hp panel with pots available that'd be even cooler than a control board!

are there any control boards for akso, like there are for axoloti?

only a silly question because you asked for the "easy" way. it's totally doable but it takes a lot of time.

surely a reflow oven is total overkill if you're starting out? i guess the exception is if you use one of those electric skillets from a big box store. but even then you'll almost certainly want paste and stencils, which again aren't particularly friendly to a beginner doing one-off boards. and for ...

short answer: yes, and it's not especially difficult. but you need to know the specifics of the modules that you want the jacks to connect to.

also, it's not difficult to add a transformer to an existing output design so long as space isn't a concern. and when it is a concern there's the 42TM019-RC

a hot air gun is absolutely essential. sometimes you mess up when soldering an ic, and it's a nightmare to remove with an iron compared to the ease of hot air. plus it opens you up to the option of using paste, which can make ics even easier (though drag soldering with an iron can be quick once you ...

not sure if it's small enough for you, but the fender eighty-five and other solid-state red knob fenders are a solid option. the distortion channel is useless, but the clean channel is pristine and sounds great with distortion pedals. that's the key to jonny's greenwood's 90s dirt sound after all.

some mutable clock inputs. similar to what i posted above but with npn transistors, a 100k input resistor, and a 1N4148 diode. the input resistor will avoid impedance issues and the 1N4148 clips negative voltages. neither of those are strictly necessary but they certainly don't hurt.

You can just use a 5.1V zener diode. But a better option is to use a transistor as ersatzplanet explains. You can even just use a PNP transistor and a couple resistors. input.png Just follow this and connect the base to your CV and the emitter to your microcontroller's input. EDIT: you should also s...

i agree that it looks like no-clean flux on the tht parts, so nothing to worry about. you can check an lfo with a multimeter by finding the right pins and seeing if there's a cycling voltage in the correct range. checking for continuity is also a good call, especially since the led suggests that at ...

please post photos, it's pretty hard to say what the crud is on your board without seeing it.

have you tried probing the lfo section to see if you can get the correct waveform at any point? from what you've said, it's hard to say if the lfo isn't working, or if the lfo isn't reaching its destination.

why not circadian rhythms, if you need to add better gate capabilities? it should pair well with the z8000.

For building an inventory of passives I'd recommend Tayda over eBay. I buy a fair amount from eBay these days, but it took a lot of buying to know what was a ripoff and what was good. With Tayda, you know almost everything will be at least solid. Plus some makers (like frequency central) include a T...

anyone in the usa got a spare pcb/panel set?

as others have said, every time i build a module, i buy extra of each component. if it's passives like resistors, i'll buy between 30 and 100 of that value (still less than a dollar). i use tayda for passives which makes it even easier and cheaper. for ICs maybe i'll buy 10 if i only need 1 or 2 for...

have you tried probing voice 2 to see where the signal disappears just by listening, and if the pitch and other parameters are changing as you'd expect?

might be worth buying getting an oscilloscope – tons of old ones on ebay for not much money

just make sure the right pins on each jack are connected to the right places, how you connect isn't really imporant. it's a convenient technique to connect all the grounds together with a component lead, but you can also just wire them together. check the datasheet for the 16pj138, see which pins ar...

it's not always this simple, but sometimes you can just throw in a coupling capacitor and it'll smooth out the dc enough to stop the clicks

autopoiesis wrote: ↑

Mon Jun 08, 2020 11:42 am

vasculator wrote: ↑

Mon Jun 08, 2020 10:26 am

frequency central system x envelope for me. really does the trick shape-wise and they are super easy/cheap to DIY.

agreed here

+1

their CEMvelope is nice too, but the curve of the system x envelope sounds especially nice to me

you should really be answering that question yourself. learn your system, and only add stuff if you find flaws. it's already massive and very capable.

if you must add i would recommend something to take better advantage of the many power players you already have. stuff like the manhattan analog cvp.