PJ301BM -- what I think of as 'Erthenvar Jacks'. The ones with metal wrapped around three sides. https://www.thonk.co.uk/shop/3-5mm-jacks/ You could possibly redesign it for thonkiconns. I have lots of both lying around. No, no piezo discs -- the copper layer on the front of the panel acts as a capa...

Don't forget LED/LDR phasers!

It is, only difference for the control was that v0.1 of the control PCB had no power lines going to the TL072.

I'm not sure on the octaves thing, I still have to do some (read: any) measurements on their accuracy. (If I want accuracy, I use Braids.) But the BCM transistors are a pig to solder, compared to the THAT, and the THAT is placed so that you can solder the tempco resistor on top, if you want.

Yep, +/- 12V for all the modules. On the 258, for 0.1 you need a through-hole jfet (selected for sine shaping), for 0.2 you can use either a through hole, or try your luck with a MMBFJ201 or MMBF5457. (Don't use both SMD *and* TH on the same side, the two footprints are electrically paralleled.) The...

No commercial use! Don't PM or email me for help (you can ask in this thread, but don't expect miracles.) 'Arpad Touch' is a PCB layout (including panel) for the Synapse touch controller schematic. 'korg34 ms10' has two PCBs -- one is a small board to replace the KORG35 module (thank you to Crazy Pa...

I've built the circuit that Serge (under the name Arpad Benares) posted in Synapse Magazine. Works very well.

Living with a skiff case is like driving a Fiat 500 -- just accept that some things will never fit.

Wow... when you think of what Hi-Watt did with their wiring, and then you see this...

I've built a clone of the KORG35 subcircuit, and tried it in the MS10 VCF. Not bad, but I need to try it in the MS20 circuit.

The circuit, with modern part substitutes, is on a French website, with pictures of the clone subcircuit used to repair vintage synths. Wish I could remember the URL.

You'd better have your troubleshooting chops up to par if you're taking on a 208, and have a strong streak of OCD while building it.

Put it on something the height of a coffee table.

What would a dreadlock VCO sound like?

I'll second the Sauce of Unce and 281 -- I have fairly close clones of the original 266 Source of Uncertainty, and the Quad Function Generator in my system. The SoU is one of the best random sources I've seen, and the 281 is *kinda* in a similar vein to Maths and Rampage, but coming at it from a com...

Just bear in mind that you can't work solid core wire like you can stranded core wire and, if there's a stress break under the insulation, it can be a bugger to find.

Are you running wires for the volume pot, or using the built-in volume thing?

Something downstream from it is drawing huge current, would be my guess. It powers the MN3205, and the MN3102 (and the Max Delay trimmer and pot.) Either bad chips, wrong way around, or you've got a solder bridge somewhere.

Some of the solder joints aren't pretty cosmetically but they're all functional; as best as I could, I've checked continuity from the pad on the component to the pad on the PCB or the next component in line and I don't have any high resistances. I've even pressed down on some of the components whil...

For the QVAL pot, the silkscreen says 10k. The component value says 100k.

Any difference?

Graphic tees and the odd polo shirt, here. I do have a blue dress shirt in the wardrobe for super-special, though, and a pair of dress trousers in a drawer somewhere.

When I'm going shopping and want every single attendant to help me, pronto, I wear my denim longcoat and maybe the flatcap.

I have a metal cheap-ass flathead I use for trimmers.

When I had to trim the trimpots on the motherboard for the Buchla 208, meaning sticking it between the daughterboards while powered up, I just put some heatshrink over it. Job done.

I don't know why, but this is triggering my DIY-lust in a way that even Acme's Jupiter clone does not.

For one component, I use my fingers. For more than one, I use an unbelievably blunt old steak knife (that I doubt was able to cut butter when it was new.)

I don't think I've ever owned a lead forming tool

The ST-Link is for programming STM32 based microprocessors (which most Mutable stuff is based on.)

The Module Tester runs in an Atmega processor, which needs a different programmer (like the AVRISPMkII mentioned above.)

My 208papz build is working now, and sounds very good (I followed Mr Brown's vactrol matching recommendations, and got parts kits from Boops (a new card 12 from him as well) and SA Modular.

The only issues I had were where I missed a pin on an IC socket.